ABS problem, in the hinterlands

Currently on long ride through northern BC. Camped tonight at Moberly Lake north of Chetwynd. Yesterday the abs and general fault lights started alternate flashing while riding. I pulled fault code with my GS911 and it was low brake fluid. I stripped down the bike, 2006 R1150RTP, and the front chamber on the servo was a little low. I added a few tablespoons and everything checked out fine. Rode 600 km since then no problem. At the camp today I parked the bike a few minutes turned off, started and went for a site hunt. I then shut it down again for a couple minutes but when I went to start it again the general fault light went out and the abs light kept rapid flashing. The pump made no noise. I went ahead and started it anyway but it continued to rapid flash. I shut it off and connected the gs911 and it found no fault codes. I started it back ip and rode 300 meters, it was still flashing. I shut down again, started again, still flashing. I rode back to the campsite and on the way it stopped flashing and the pump ran. I parked at the site, shut off the bike, and tried it again. Flashing light was back. Still no fault codes. Next I am going to try riding off and if it switches on I will try activate the abs in some gravel as suggested in the other current abs thread. Any suggestions? I am on day three of a 16 day ride with my wife on her bike also.

Update. Started fine. Exercised abs in gravel. All good. Parked bike. Waited 5 minutes, key on, won't initialize, just rapid flashing. Can heat have an effect? Very hot and humid, upper 80's and a long hot ride today through the mountains averaging 70-80mph.

Update. Started fine. Exercised abs in gravel. All good. Parked bike. Waited 5 minutes, key on, won't initialize, just rapid flashing. Can heat have an effect? Very hot and humid, upper 80's and a long hot ride today through the mountains averaging 70-80mph.

Morning Shane

Without a more specific failure code it is difficult to tell you much.

Unfortunately the general light off & ABS light flashing fast doesn't tell us much other than that you just have residual braking available.

Is the rear brake light working OK from both the front lever & rear pedal when the problem is occurring?

You might check both front & rear brake switch operation (like small stone caught in rear switch reed area).

Also try cleaning the wheel sensor areas (especially if riding on roads that have any iron on them from mining operations).

Another thing to try is NOT touching or using either end brake before or while starting the engine (if that eliminates the problem then look into brake switch problems).

Your problem sort of points to an internal ABS module pressure switch failing/failure but that almost always shows a code on the GS-911.

If nothing firm shows up maybe try grabbing the brake failure codes as soon as possible after the dash light comes on, you might catch something on the GS-911.

Thanks DR. I will check all that. I am also going to run the gs911 today and data log. Currently we are north of Chetwynd and wireless signal will become more scarce so I will check in when I can. I think worst case I can always bypass the module.

I think I found the problem

Burnt out brake light bulb.

I think I found the problem

Burnt out brake light bulb.

Afternoon Shane J

You found A problem but a burnt out brake light bulb shouldn't cause the problem described in the original posting. Light bulb issues show up on the general warning light.

Gen light ON, ABS light off = rear light/brake light defective/

In Fort St John for gas. Original flashing abs light has not reoccurred since the start this morning. General was on for first stretch but stayed out after rest stop. Brake light is out. I still have brake lights on my auxiliary led brake lights which are connected to my rear brake pedal so safe rideing until I can replace the bulb. Too much gear strapped on to mess with it until tonight north of Ft Nelson.

Thanks for the heads up.

Found an 1157 bulb in Watson Lake. I needed a 1057. I filed off one of the nibs and installed it in one the turn signals since it is a dual filiment bulb and I don't know if the extra current draw would upset the abs. That let me use the single filament 1057 in the brake light. No problem since then and traveled over 1000km with no reoccurrence.

Found an 1157 bulb in Watson Lake. I needed a 1057. I filed off one of the nibs and installed it in one the turn signals since it is a dual filiment bulb and I don't know if the extra current draw would upset the abs. That let me use the single filament 1057 in the brake light. No problem since then and traveled over 1000km with no reoccurrence.

Morning Shane

It shouldn't make any difference as the turn signals don't go through the ABS module so any turn signal current issue can't be seen or measured by the ABS system (tail light// brake light= yes,, turn signals= no)

DR, I wasn't clear. I put the dual filament in the turn signal because I knew it wasn't connected to ABS. I also didn't want to use the dual filament in the brake light for two reasons. One is the higher current draw which might affect the ABS, and second because of the extra heat. Since the turn signal flashes I figured the extra heat would not matter. Anyway, I have still had no symptoms since installing the bulb in the brake light. I do have a nice bright turn signal though ðŸ˜

Still on the road in northern BC.

Flashing light was back. Still no fault codes. Next I am going to try riding off and if it switches on I will try activate the abs in some gravel as suggested in the other current abs thread. Any suggestions? I am on day three of a 16 day ride with my wife on her bike also.

I had a similar issue with my 2003 RT on a trip. In my case it was an issue with the rear brake pedal and switch (crud/sand) had worked its way in there. The bike would then thing the rear brake was "always applied" and wouldn't properly initialize (no fault codes). Check your switches to ensure they aren't wonky.

Just a follow-up now that we are back home. I had zero problem with the ABS lights after replacing the brake light bulb. If only everything was that simple to solve.

Just a follow-up now that we are back home. I had zero problem with the ABS lights after replacing the brake light bulb. If only everything was that simple to solve.

Glad to hear. I went to a Wunderlich LED system [http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/motorcycle/8601092.html] (complete/sealed unit) on my 2003. Expense, but solid and never any bulb worries on long tours.

Or for considerably less:

https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-R-1100-1150-RT/Leds-Lenses-Bulbs/LED-Rear-Light.html

That would be good for my wife's bike, mine has aux led Motolites connected for running, brake and turn. They are so bright I had someone follow me once for 10 miles so he could ask what the brand was.

So my abs light saga continues. Ever since replacing the brake light while in Watson Lake YT I had zero problems with the abs warning light. Now, I made a trip to town yesterday and when I started the bike up to come home the abs light would not stop rapid flashing and I had only residual brakes. I headed home and after a couple miles they initialized and everything was fine. Stopping at the last stop sign headed home, I released the brake lever and realized I could still hear my brake pump whizzing slightly. I pushed out on the lever and it stopped. I squeezed the brakes on and released, sure enough it was still whizzing slightly until I pushed out on the lever. Normally I would never have heard this as I usually wear earplugs, but didn't have them in this time.

At home I experimented and found that if I had applied the brakes and not pushed the lever forward the abs would think I was squeezing the lever at startup and the pump would not initialize. If I made sure to push the lever forward before starting then everything is fine. So, I will clean, inspect, and lubricate the brake switch and that should solve the problem. I think the reason the system would correct after a couple miles is that I would hit a bump and clear the lever pushing on the switch.

So my abs light saga continues. Ever since replacing the brake light while in Watson Lake YT I had zero problems with the abs warning light. Now, I made a trip to town yesterday and when I started the bike up to come home the abs light would not stop rapid flashing and I had only residual brakes. I headed home and after a couple miles they initialized and everything was fine. Stopping at the last stop sign headed home, I released the brake lever and realized I could still hear my brake pump whizzing slightly. I pushed out on the lever and it stopped. I squeezed the brakes on and released, sure enough it was still whizzing slightly until I pushed out on the lever. Normally I would never have heard this as I usually wear earplugs, but didn't have them in this time.

At home I experimented and found that if I had applied the brakes and not pushed the lever forward the abs would think I was squeezing the lever at startup and the pump would not initialize. If I made sure to push the lever forward before starting then everything is fine. So, I will clean, inspect, and lubricate the brake switch and that should solve the problem. I think the reason the system would correct after a couple miles is that I would hit a bump and clear the lever pushing on the switch.

Morning Shane

Probably won't correct the problem. As a rule it takes bending the little micro-switch leaf slightly to allow the hand lever to operated the switch correctly. Usually doesn't take much bending (just enough to get the switch to ALWAYS activate).

Remember that switch works reverse logic (normally closed then goes open with hand lever moving the switch leaf)

Note slight bend in brake switch reed posted below-- that needs to be removed if yours is bent like that.

Thanks D.R.

So far all I have done is spray some silicone lubricant up inside the housing. Letting it set a while and then see how it does. If still working improperly I will take apart the housing. Any tricks to that?

I would think it should be straight forward, but....

Thanks D.R.

So far all I have done is spray some silicone lubricant up inside the housing. Letting it set a while and then see how it does. If still working improperly I will take apart the housing. Any tricks to that?

I would think it should be straight forward, but....

Evening Shane

The switch is pretty easy to access & the reed can probably be re-bent slightly without removing the switch from the housing (you should be able to look from the bottom up in the lever area & see the switch reed contacting the lever) with lever released.