RT1100 clutch replacement

Good afternoon

I'm going to start on replacing the clutch disk this week and after watching the Chris Harris video, I was wondering if the final drive and swingarm could be removed as one unit instead of two pieces. I know many forum members have tackled this job and would appreciate your thoughts.

Ron in Calgary

Good afternoon

 

I'm going to start on replacing the clutch disk this week and after watching the Chris Harris video, I was wondering if the final drive and swingarm could be removed as one unit instead of two pieces. I know many forum members have tackled this job and would appreciate your thoughts.

 

Ron in Calgary

 

 

 

Afternoon Ron

Yes, you can remove the trans, swing arm, & final drive as a unit BUT it is more difficult to handle & deal with that way.

The thing is, an 1100 is now getting old so the drive shaft U joints, swing arm pivot pins, & trans output seal should probably all be looked at plus the pivot pin bearings lubricated or possibly replaced if worn or beat up. Now would the time to do that as you are mostly there anyhow.

Hi D.R.

A good point, the previous owner had the transmission rebuilt 40,000 Kilometres and had addressed the issues you indicated. I was hoping to not have to seperate the units as I'm still trying to find a local source for the 30mm cutaway socket needed to reinstall the pivot allen bolts and nuts, I don't supposes there is a alternate method to doing this?

Ron

Hi D.R.

 

A good point, the previous owner had the transmission rebuilt 40,000 Kilometres and had addressed the issues you indicated. I was hoping to not have to seperate the units as I'm still trying to find a local source for the 30mm cutaway socket needed to reinstall the pivot allen bolts and nuts, I don't supposes there is a alternate method to doing this?

 

Ron

Evening Ron

Actually there are a few work arounds --from using a hacksaw & Dremel to make your own cut-away socket, or marking the pivot bolts then keeping the marks lined up while torqueing the nut, to using a box end wrench & guessing at the torque, to pre torqueing the nut then marking it, then holding the center pivot bolt while you use a box end wrench to line the nut marks back to the pre-set torque marks, to blue Lock-Titeing the pivot bolt at proper adjustment- waiting a day- then torqueing the nut- as that usually holds the pivot bolt in place as the nut is torqued .

Thanks D.R.

I was hopeing there was an alternative method. As it happens I got a lead the 30mm cutaway at a local auto body supply shop today and will check it out in the morning. I do all of my maintenance and repairs and am fortunate to have a lift to make the job easier on these old bones, if I run into difficulties i know where to come for knowable advice.

Stay tuned

Ron