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O2 sensor splice help !


joeb

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Bosch O2 sensor.# 15727 from Beemerboneyard for 03 rt

Directions for splice with a smart link connector look like a page torn out of a comic book. Not a single word of explanation. Black and white drawings. The closest thing to a word of direction is

A?/B?/C?. According to the product description no need to remove tank, just splice into old wire, but the instruction sheet shows a picture of the old sensor layed out with the old connector attached. Must remove tank to do that. As far as where to splice one diagram shows cutting wire 3.93" inches from the connector. Another shows it being cut 5.11" inches from probe, another just shows a coiled snake with NO dimensions. ?????

Wth ????

From what I'm guessing is, does it just have to be the same overall length as the original ?

Also the so called smart link supposedly let's o2 into the wires according to Bosch video ( although the wires appear to be syandard type stranded ) so does that connector have to be a specific distance from something ?

Also, I haven't removed the old one yet so I don't know wire colors. I understand that the white wires are heat wires and not important which old heat wires they attach to, but the +, - wires which are black and gray on new O2 need to hook to corresponding +, - in old harness. Does the old harness have 2 white, 1 black and 1 Gray wire also ?

Very confused on my end. Any help would be appreciated . Thanks.

Edited by joeb
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Kind of helps. Still trying to figure out what type (A,B,C ) sensor is in my bike. Looks like I can see what color wires are in harness and match them to the chart ?

IT does appear that the important thing is to keep total length of whip same length.. Instead of pulling tank, if I cut , as an example 5 inches from the sensor, leave 5 inches on the new sensor. Or am I missing something here ?

Thanks..

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Bosch O2 sensor.# 15727 from Beemerboneyard for 03 rt

Directions for splice with a smart link connector look like a page torn out of a comic book. Not a single word of explanation. Black and white drawings. The closest thing to a word of direction is

A?/B?/C?. According to the product description no need to remove tank, just splice into old wire, but the instruction sheet shows a picture of the old sensor layed out with the old connector attached. Must remove tank to do that. As far as where to splice one diagram shows cutting wire 3.93" inches from the connector. Another shows it being cut 5.11" inches from probe, another just shows a coiled snake with NO dimensions. ?????

Wth ????

From what I'm guessing is, does it just have to be the same overall length as the original ?

Also the so called smart link supposedly let's o2 into the wires according to Bosch video ( although the wires appear to be syandard type stranded ) so does that connector have to be a specific distance from something ?

Also, I haven't removed the old one yet so I don't know wire colors. I understand that the white wires are heat wires and not important which old heat wires they attach to, but the +, - wires which are black and gray on new O2 need to hook to corresponding +, - in old harness. Does the old harness have 2 white, 1 black and 1 Gray wire also ?

Very confused on my end. Any help would be appreciated . Thanks.

 

Evening joeb

 

I was going to post a rather long how-to but TestPilot's link explains most of it.

 

The overall length on the finished new o2 sensor pig tail can be any length (doesn't matter) so close to OEM overall length is just fine.

 

As to where to put the connector box in the finished pig tail, also doesn't matter, BUT look closely to where on the bike it will fit & stay out of trouble, then plan on putting in that area on the pig tail.

 

You can do it without removing the tank but that means making all the connections with everything hanging off the bike (not a big deal just place the connector box in a good safe location & keep the o2 sensor pig tail away from the R/H spark plug wire).

 

Your OEM sensor is -- WHITE wires are both heater & there is no polarity on those, BLACK is sensor low (-) & GRAY is sensor high (+).

 

Read over that linked info then ask any questions here if you still have any questions or doubts.

 

 

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Thanks. It seems odd that they make such an ordeal about where to cut the wire. The cautionary "don't cut the old wire till you remove it and lay it next to the new one so the cut is in the same place", or the " so many centimeter from plug or sensor depending on if you have an A/B/C type" kind of threw me. Much easier to just say, " cut it where the connector will live a long and happy life " . Thanks for the wire color code and the link was helpful.

 

Did anyone watch the Bosch video on the Smart link connector ? They said it is designed to let air into it for the sensor , where as orher brands just usw a simple crimp connection. Does that make sense ? Just wondering.

 

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Thanks. It seems odd that they make such an ordeal about where to cut the wire. The cautionary "don't cut the old wire till you remove it and lay it next to the new one so the cut is in the same place", or the " so many centimeter from plug or sensor depending on if you have an A/B/C type" kind of threw me. Much easier to just say, " cut it where the connector will live a long and happy life " . Thanks for the wire color code and the link was helpful.

 

Did anyone watch the Bosch video on the Smart link connector ? They said it is designed to let air into it for the sensor , where as orher brands just usw a simple crimp connection. Does that make sense ? Just wondering.

 

Morning joeb

 

That, don't cut until you lay it next to the new one is probably precautionary due to routing & mounting clip concerns as well as having the connector box in a friendly location as far as road water & road dirt is concerned on most automobiles.

 

The smart link connector is a convenience but bulky. As for allowing air in?- sure it can do that but as long as a crimp connection can pass some air then it is going to work (the stock o2 sensor doesn't have a smart link connector in it and it works OK.

 

I forgot to mention in the above response-- When re-installing your new sensor make sure that the pig tail down by the exhaust isn't hanging or looping down (& that it can't slide down in operation) as the exhaust heat can melt the wires & cause future issues.

 

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Morn DR.

Makes sense. Sooooooo.... would you use the Smart link or just crimp ? Hate to put you on the spot, but.........

 

Morning joeb

 

Personally, I use neither as I use dedicated splice clips but those need a special crimping tool to properly crimp them. Makes a nice neat professional job (this is how we do them where I work).

 

Lots of people use Smart link type products with good success as it does work & is fairly easy for most do-it-yourselfers to install. Just make sure it is installed correctly & installed in a safe place on the bike.

 

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Thanks much, .Looks like a snippin I shall go !

First I'll make sure my bicycle is working , you know, just in case.

 

 

Morning joeb

 

Well, the good news is it will still run & ride even with no o2 sensor hooked up.

 

As long as you get the circuits matched up properly (not the wire colors) then it is fairly easy to do it correctly.

 

 

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I think some O2 sensors have small vent holes in the sensor body near the point where 4 wires enter the sensor. My FJR has 4 small holes that are covered with a white membrane like material. I cut the wires to temporarily install a wideband O2 sensor with LC-2 controller to run some tests and real time recordings mainly for my own curiosity. After the tests I reconnected the narrowband O2 sensor and all seems to be working normally with no O2 sensor fault codes being set. I don't see what I think are vent holes on the Bosch sensors.

 

Yamaha wants literally an arm and a leg for a new O2 sensor for these bikes. Almost a third the cost of a new ECU even.

 

 

 

Edited by JamesW
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I think some O2 sensors have small vent holes in the sensor body near the point where 4 wires enter the sensor. My FJR has 4 small holes that are covered with a white membrane like material. I cut the wires to temporarily install a wideband O2 sensor with LC-2 controller to run some tests and real time recordings mainly for my own curiosity. After the tests I reconnected the narrowband O2 sensor and all seems to be working normally with no O2 sensor fault codes being set. I don't see what I think are vent holes on the Bosch sensors.

 

Yamaha wants literally an arm and a leg for a new O2 sensor for these bikes. Almost a third the cost of a new ECU even.

 

 

 

Afternoon James

 

Interesting--

 

Does that bike have wide band or narrow band control?

 

Is that o2 sensor mounted in an area that isn't directly exposed to dirty road water & mud? I suppose there is no reason that it couldn't get it's reference air that way but it seems like such a big gamble on Yamaha's part as they have such a long emission compliance warranty.

 

I have seen some similar Bosch o2 sensors but they ran a tight fitting outer flexible sleeve (sealed to the o2 sensor top with a small tight zip tie but loose on the wire harness running through it) & those got their reference air down through that sleeve. The sleeve was long enough to have the reference air intake way up high & away from road water, mud, & road grime.

 

Early on in the auto industry (back in the single wire o2 sensor days) a lot of those single wire o2 sensors were vented right at the o2 thimble area, but that bit the motor companies big time as they plugged easily due to being near the road surface & down in the road gunk. They also had another problem area, as with only one wire, the low or ground side returned back through the exhaust system so with some exhaust corrosion, rust, plus vibrating around that low didn't always work as planned.

 

With modern technology & using membrane type filtering they cold probably last longer but even a breathable membrane behind holes can easily plug up with mud & road junk as those things run so hot so when the mud hits, the moisture quickly evaporates, then the quick-set mud seals the holes.

 

If you ever cut one of those Yamaha o2 sensors apart let us know if they really get their reference air in through the o2 top can.

 

 

 

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Hi D.R., I'm assuming that the OEM O2 sensor is a narrow band device. The FJR ECU never goes into closed loop mode at idle like the BMW does depending upon oil temperature. It is easy to simply move a pin on the ECU connector over one position which allows you to then enter what is known as the CO mode from ECU diagnostics program and change the idle AFR to virtually any value desired. Closed loop only occurs at cruising speed with constant throttle. No need for code plugs and the like. Kind of a more user friendly system if you will. I believe all this changed with later generation 3 models and now they have gone with the OBD2 diagnostic fault system. For a hundred bucks for an OBD2 to blue tooth device one can access fault codes with a smart phone and even look at real time diagnostics.

 

As far as the location of the O2 sensor location being subject to contaminants I wouldn't really say it's in a great location, imo.

Edited by JamesW
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Hi Dirt. Kwik question. I'm finally installing the O2 sensor.

My old had a black, 2 whites, and a gray, same as the new Bosch sensor. The funny papers they sent with the new sensor appears to indicate the black is the + and the gray is the -. Just the opposite of what you indicated is on my bike. Do I just hook like colors together or is there an opposite color scheme from the OEM to the new Bosch ?

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Hi Dirt. Kwik question. I'm finally installing the O2 sensor.

My old had a black, 2 whites, and a gray, same as the new Bosch sensor. The funny papers they sent with the new sensor appears to indicate the black is the + and the gray is the -. Just the opposite of what you indicated is on my bike. Do I just hook like colors together or is there an opposite color scheme from the OEM to the new Bosch ?

 

Evening joeb

 

NEVER go by color as that can really cause issues. ONLY go by matching circuit to circuit.

 

If black is (+) on your new sensor then you must connect that to the + on the other side regardless of the color.

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Looking at the Bosch link about wire hook up. Want to make sure I'm reading it correctly. No where do I see a black wire going to gray , and as long as my whites are heat wires I guess that black to black, gray to gray. Any cautions with that ??? Thanks.

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Looking at the Bosch link about wire hook up. Want to make sure I'm reading it correctly. No where do I see a black wire going to gray , and as long as my whites are heat wires I guess that black to black, gray to gray. Any cautions with that ??? Thanks.

 

Evening joeb

 

Just make darn sure that you are hooking (+) to (+) & hooking (-) to (-) .

 

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Sorry for being such a pest, but, the wires on my bike aren't labeled + or -. The Bosch wire guide says that the signal ( ?) Wire should go to the black on the Smart link. Which is the signal wire on the bike ?

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Is the signal wire on the bike the same as the + which according to DR is the gray wire ? Without my confusion with wire splicing the o2 swap isn't really too bad. Thanks all

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Is the signal wire on the bike the same as the + which according to DR is the gray wire ? Without my confusion with wire splicing the o2 swap isn't really too bad. Thanks all

 

 

Evening joeb

 

I want back & re-read what I post on page 1 --

 

OK I see the issue-- I gave you incorrect info on page 1 of this thread.

 

 

On the bike side the black wire is sensor (+) or signal & the gray is sensor (-) low.

 

Not sure how I screed it up in my first post but I sure did.

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