Jump to content
IGNORED

Help and advice


MattGarr57

Recommended Posts

I know you probably get this question tons of times, but I am Looking for R1100RT or RS, R1150RT, R1200, etc. I need advice in general, if there were model years to stay away from, etc. I know the bikez.com reviews are just from the public and there aren't a ton of reviews on any one model, but in general the R1100's are rated better for trouble free riding vs the R1150's. Are there problem spots in any model year range, like transmission, charging system, etc. Any advice is appreciated. The oldest bike I have my eye on is a 1995 R1100RS with 31k. I also have my eye on a 1996 R1100RT with 31k, a 2001 R1150RT with 32k, and a '99 R1100RT with 85k. These bikes have a variety of add on extras, and some with better proven maintenance histories. Thanks for any advice.

Link to comment

Those early year Oilheads will have the M94 transmissions unless they were changed out. M94 tranny has a known issue. Personally, I would stay away from the 1150 due to sensitive and failure prone iABS brakes and due to failures of the transmission input shaft splines. This is especially concerning with the early 1150 model years. The '99 RT is the one I would look hard at. I had a '96 RT, loved it. It was bought used from the local BMW shop, but they replaced the transmission before selling it. Deer took that one away from me.

 

I'm admittedly biased for the 1100RT. It's dependable and it's an easy bike to work on. 18" rear tire makes rear tire choice a little limited. Great sport-touring bike. My current RT has 185K miles.

 

There are several items on these bikes that will have to be upgrade or renewed IF they weren't done already. Hall Effect Sensor (HES). Brake Hoses. Left side cam chain tensioner. Those three items are about $500-$600 in parts and can be replaced yourself.

Link to comment
I know you probably get this question tons of times, but I am Looking for R1100RT or RS, R1150RT, R1200, etc. I need advice in general, if there were model years to stay away from, etc. I know the bikez.com reviews are just from the public and there aren't a ton of reviews on any one model, but in general the R1100's are rated better for trouble free riding vs the R1150's. Are there problem spots in any model year range, like transmission, charging system, etc. Any advice is appreciated. The oldest bike I have my eye on is a 1995 R1100RS with 31k. I also have my eye on a 1996 R1100RT with 31k, a 2001 R1150RT with 32k, and a '99 R1100RT with 85k. These bikes have a variety of add on extras, and some with better proven maintenance histories. Thanks for any advice.

 

Morning MattGarr57

 

While nothing is 100% --when it comes to the BMW 1100/1150/1200 motorcycles and BMW's past history of using BMW paying customers as beta testers, then, as a rule, the later in a model year that you get the better the bike's reliability. Sure you will read of a late 1150 with drivetrain problems or any early 1150 that went 100,000 miles with trouble free history but history has showed us that for the most part that later in a model production run the better chance of having a better bike.

 

Just look in the BMW parts book to see ALL the running changes (most for the better, or to add vehicle reliability) that BMW makes from a model introduction year to last year of production.

 

But, when it comes to buying a used BMW boxer bike, past owners treatment, updates, repairs, type of owner can also have a significant effect on bike condition & reliability.

 

 

 

Link to comment

As usual Dirtrider has good advice... above.

 

I personally think the R1200's are a good starting point for a search... cost not being the primary limiting factor.

 

But... and its a big butt... There are several other objectives in your process that need to be considered and prioritized. One thing is the budget... in general, the newer the better but always more costly- on the average.

 

Another major factor is your riding style. If you are a two-up, touring kinda rider then go newer... I vote '05' or better. If you are a solo- peg-scraping boy-racer... then the R-1100s offer magnificent options that should be considered.

 

I suggest getting really clear in your mind about what you want the bike for- first- then go shopping.

Link to comment

Having owned several oilheads, and currently riding a 2003 R 1150 R, I like them for their simplicity. They are easy to maintain. When buying used, you need to consider if the previous owner(s) did the necessary preventive upgrades in addition to normal maintenance. Are the brake lines OE? If so, they need to be upgraded to SS. Internal fuel lines OE? Need to replace them. Upgraded chain tensioner? Should be done. One other issue with older bikes is the HES which determines when the spark is fired. The OEM wiring becomes brittle and when it fails, the bike won't run.

 

IMO the single upgrade that you can do to an oilhead is to install Ohlins suspension. They will completely change the riding experience. Lots of bikes at a price that make them a good value. If you are willing to wait, and perhaps travel a little, you can get a whole lot of bike for the money.

Link to comment

Are you going to do the maintenance?

They need it, time and mileage schedules.

Spend some time search here for maintenance wrt 1100.

Plenty of stuff, doable, and a fine ride.

1150 as noted, can be some costly repairs. or not

1200 some early issues w/FD andeventually some well known like suspension that should have been addressed

 

Any used mc is a roll of the dice

Which one do you like, and why?

Link to comment

Budget is a factor but I have seen 1200's in my budget. Riding style ... 1 up only. I like riding 2-3 days in the SW part of VA, easter TN, and Western NC. If you haven't ridden this region, you don't know what you're missing. So lot's of twisties, rollers, etc. I had a '96 R1100R in the late 90's. Didn't have it long. Got a Ducati ST. Then a FZ-1. Then a Kawasaki ZRX. Then a Honda Blackbird. I liked them all. Going back to a BMW ... shaft driven, with better wind protection, and they aren't furnace/heat factories stuck under your crotch. Thanks Hopz!

Link to comment

Tallman, no, I have a shop I'll take the bike to for all maintenance. To be honest, of the R1100 RS & RT, the 1150 and 1200, I can't tell you which one I like best because I haven't ridden all 3. Thanks for the advice!

Edited by MattGarr57
Link to comment

Bud, I upgraded the suspension on my last 3 bikes. The FZ1, the ZRX, and the Blackbird so I know how valuable that is. If I get a bike soon and I like it after riding for a while, then I'd probably look into upgrading the suspension over the winter. I'd love to have a bike in the next 3-4 weeks to catch fall riding. Thanks for the advice.

Link to comment

Dirtrider, so in general, a '99 R1100RT would be preferred over a '96 ? (all other things equal). I complied a list of the maintenance items everyone commented on above and I emailed each of the owners to see if they have been done on their respective bikes. Thanks again!

Link to comment
Dirtrider, so in general, a '99 R1100RT would be preferred over a '96 ? (all other things equal). I complied a list of the maintenance items everyone commented on above and I emailed each of the owners to see if they have been done on their respective bikes. Thanks again!

 

Evening MattGarr57

 

Yes, in general anyhow.

 

The '99 R1100RT should have the updated clutch, better transmission, independent throttle cables to the throttle bodies, better oil thermostat, better head gaskets, better cylinder to engine case sealing, etc.

 

But a 96 with the cable update, later clutch installed, replacement transmission, could be just as good or even better if the updates were done closer to the sales mileage.

 

The changes in the 1100 over it's life were not monumental but they did add up to slightly better motorcycle.

 

Link to comment

Everyone talks about the 99 RT, but keep in mind the 2000 RT is the same version of the R1100RT.

The R1150RT did not appear until 2001/02. The first ones had single spark plugs and alinement issues between motor and transmission.

They also where the beginning of the "whizzy brakes", linked powered brakes.

This brake system stayed around till 2006 on the RT lineup.

The 2007 R1200RT was a great bike without the power assisted brake system.

The CamHead 2010 and newer R1200RT are the best version of the oil cooled boxer, it doesn't use much engine oil, the valves hardly ever go out of adjustments and the fuel level sensor problem was replaced with a float style.

If you can afford a CamHead, I would recommend it, as it is the same motor and transmission they are using in the new RnineT series naked bikes.

My other choice would be a 1999/2000 R1100RT.

Just my 2.5 cents. LOL

 

Link to comment
Budget is a factor but I have seen 1200's in my budget. Riding style ... 1 up only. I like riding 2-3 days in the SW part of VA, easter TN, and Western NC. If you haven't ridden this region, you don't know what you're missing. So lot's of twisties, rollers, etc. I had a '96 R1100R in the late 90's. Didn't have it long. Got a Ducati ST. Then a FZ-1. Then a Kawasaki ZRX. Then a Honda Blackbird. I liked them all. Going back to a BMW ... shaft driven, with better wind protection, and they aren't furnace/heat factories stuck under your crotch. Thanks Hopz!

 

If your budget can afford a 1200 then I would go for it without a doubt over the 1100 or 1150. The 1200 vintage is quicker and still very light. They are rock solid and will run forever. Also, lots of options i.e. accessories still available for the 1200 vintage. I would get as new as you possibly can afford. That one that Tewks posted looks sweet! And while I would not hesitate to buy a 2005 or 2006 getting a 2007 you avoid the servo brakes. Which I never had an issue with in over 35,000 miles but just one less thing to worry about. Also, the 1200's had cruise control with is a nice to have.

 

I live in Charlotte and spend a lot of time riding the same roads you mention. We frequently head up to Roanoke for a 3-4 day stay and take day rides into VA and WV. It really is motorcycle heaven.

 

Hope this helps and good luck with your search!

Link to comment

Oooeeee!

That there is a nice ride.

A$king $2800 with 31k and the bags (options) with all body work looking good.

A '95 but still...

And of the @25-30,000 RS's sold in USA only about 1200 were RSL's like this one.

Someone give this a good home (seems like it has one now).

:thumbsup:

Link to comment
Oooeeee!

That there is a nice ride.

 

And of the @25-30,000 RS's sold in USA only about 1200 were RSL's like this one.

 

:thumbsup:

 

And if I remember correctly, that yellow was a limited color that year which makes it even more exclusive. :Cool:

 

 

Pat

Link to comment
Bud, can you upgrade both front and rear suspension, on say a ‘99 RT, or is it just the rear?

You can upgrade both by replacing the shocks.

Link to comment

Tewks, Funny you should send this one. I am literally going to look at this bike in 1 hour. This guy travels and was hard to pin down. Been trying to set something up for 1-2 weeks.

 

Link to comment

Bud, any advice on where/how to get the HES done? Any idea on rough cost? I don't do maintenance. I go to G6 MotoSports for my maintenance but not 100% sure it'll be the best way to go on this.

Edited by MattGarr57
Link to comment

There's a guy in BC Canada, GSAddict that rewires the HES wires with much better than new heat resistant wires. Cost is about $125. Boneyard and the other BMW online parts vendors sell new replacement HES for around $230-$250. I didn't look up the prices, but I am close.

 

It's not a hard job. If you aren't going to do it, any experienced BMW tech can do it.

Link to comment
Tewks, Funny you should send this one. I am literally going to look at this bike in 1 hour.

 

 

That is funny, how'd she look in person? :dontknow:

 

 

Pat

Link to comment

So, just say I buy a '00 R1100RT with 30k mi. The bike appears nice and seems well maintained..... BUT there's no proven history of all maintenance over the life of the bike. Would you front-burner these maintenance items and proceed to have them done sooner than later: 1) Hall Effect Sensor (HES)_. 2) SS Brake Hoses. 3) Left side cam chain tensioner. 4) Internal fuel lines ?

Link to comment

1, 2, 4 now, you could wait on the tensioner depending on how much it rattles on start up.

I had a 00 R1100RT. That was a sweet bike.

Link to comment

Agree with MrZoom on replacement items. I had a 99 RT. One of the best bikes I ever owned. Current 99 S has had similar upgrades.

Link to comment
So, just say I buy a '00 R1100RT with 30k mi. The bike appears nice and seems well maintained..... BUT there's no proven history of all maintenance over the life of the bike. Would you front-burner these maintenance items and proceed to have them done sooner than later: 1) Hall Effect Sensor (HES)_. 2) SS Brake Hoses. 3) Left side cam chain tensioner. 4) Internal fuel lines ?

 

In 2010, I picked up a 2006RT with 5800 on it. I didn't even test ride it nor sit on it until it was in my garage. I had a friend do a "round the block" for me because the owner's wife wouldn't allow me to ride as I didn't have an endorsement (never mind that previous states I lived in didn't require one). I went with my gut on getting the bike and now I'm at 118000 on a near all weather daily rider, albeit a tranny rebuild at 70k and replaced at 80k 'cause the rebuild was bad. I also had a coil stick go out at about 90k. I've got the whizzy brakes that have been serviced once at 60k (and they are still whizzing), the valves have been checked once at 30k, the throttle bodies have never been synced, the front ESA shock replaced because it bled fluid, the rear ESA is original, I change the oil at 6-10k, the tranny oil at around 24k'ish and the final drive every two rear tire changes. I've replaced the plugs once. The bike's been laid down twice due to the meteorliargist saying that we wouldn't have ice on the roads as the ground and air temps were too high, it's got bumps and bruises but still going strong. Is my bike an exception with the minimalist maintenance plan that I have, I dunno.

 

My point is this, if you ask an enthusiast board questions concerning what they're enthused about,.....you're gonna get the "do this", "do that" "replace this" "replace that",......how about just go with the feeling that you have when you look at the bike and talk with the owner (I spoke with the owner's wife as the owner was out of town). If the feeling isn't right,...walk away.

Link to comment

Morning Richard

 

There is kind of a pretty big apples to oranges thing between 2000 1100RT & your 2006 1200RT. There are some positive upgrades designed into the 1200RT bikes.

 

Your 2006 already has the better Stahlflex brake lines so those don't suddenly fail as your bike ages, your 2006 doesn't have those prone-to-fail in-tank fuel hoses that can suddenly fail while riding far from home & leave you stranded, your 2006 1200RT doesn't have a fickle HES system that can fail when it gets wet & again leave you stranded.

 

There are certain items on the 2000 1100RT that history has proven out to need attention as the bike ages.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Morning Richard

 

There is kind of a pretty big apples to oranges thing between 2000 1100RT & your 2006 1200RT. There are some positive upgrades designed into the 1200RT bikes.

 

Your 2006 already has the better Stahlflex brake lines so those don't suddenly fail as your bike ages, your 2006 doesn't have those prone-to-fail in-tank fuel hoses that can suddenly fail while riding far from home & leave you stranded, your 2006 1200RT doesn't have a fickle HES system that can fail when it gets wet & again leave you stranded.

 

There are certain items on the 2000 1100RT that history has proven out to need attention as the bike ages.

 

 

 

 

But if I were looking at purchasing a 1200rt, how many would say to "do this", "do that" "replace this" "replace that", don't get one with whizzy brakes cause they fail, fuel strips fail etc, etc. If I were in the market and read this board on the "concerns" of an 06RT, I would have never bought one. Hence I will never ask an enthusiast board opinions on purchasing a used vehicle of any type because many will come out with suggestions that "may not apply". Replace this because it "may" go out.,......heck, replace the engine because at some point in the future it "may" go out and leave you stranded (extreme yes)

 

My previous neighbor that has 98k on his 1100rt has not replaced any of those items you mention. The only thing that died on his bike was the final drive at 80k and he purchased a used one with lower mileage on it. Is his bike the exception or is it that we only hear about the "bad" things that go out and not the long lasting bikes that people don't report on. There may be service recalls on some of these items and even with those, it's not a "will" but "may" fail issue......cause at some point in time everything "will" fail.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment

Glad to know what bikes not to buy.

 

BMW bikes are designed and built for service based on time and mileage (k's).

One may choose to do so, or not.

They are so well built that one can do minimal maintenance and still have a running bike.

 

However, as DR points out, model changes in production led to different needs wrt maintenance.

All R1100's will have certain components wear and fail. When is variable. These are known items.

Once done, great baseline for a nice ride to enjoy.

Best wishes.

Link to comment
Morning Richard

 

There is kind of a pretty big apples to oranges thing between 2000 1100RT & your 2006 1200RT. There are some positive upgrades designed into the 1200RT bikes.

 

Your 2006 already has the better Stahlflex brake lines so those don't suddenly fail as your bike ages, your 2006 doesn't have those prone-to-fail in-tank fuel hoses that can suddenly fail while riding far from home & leave you stranded, your 2006 1200RT doesn't have a fickle HES system that can fail when it gets wet & again leave you stranded.

 

There are certain items on the 2000 1100RT that history has proven out to need attention as the bike ages.

 

 

 

 

I think most would agree that while the various vintages of RT's have some good qualities I also believe most would agree the RT has gotten better with each update. So simply put buy the newest model year your budget can afford.

 

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...