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New Project Bike


WilloCo

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So I picked up someone elses problem child. A 98 R1100RT with 67k on it. It's in fair condition, but was definitely laid down at some point. Looks like all was repaired aside from the Right valve cover has deep scratching and the protector is missing.

This is my first 2 wheeled' BMW. I do loads of work on my e46 330xi, so I'm used to BMW engineering and parts at least. I was amused when I saw that several sensors are obviously from the same parts bin.

 

On to the actual problems:

1) No keys. They lost em while it sat for the last year.

2) No clutch engagement. - This is why it sat for a year.

3) Super low fluid in the front master cylinder. I found a fluid drip on the bottom of the MC as well. Some paint damage where the fluid pooled near the cowel vent.

4) Battery is dead. Well, almost certainly, it's hard to tell sans keys!

 

 

Tires look good, all the tupperware is good aside from a missing peg on the left rear side panel.

All the luggage is good, aside from a few scratches.

 

 

My first goal is to hear the bike run. Sadly, I'm mostly stuck until I have a key - I can't even get the seat off without it.

 

I'm going to go get her titled later today, once I have papers I can go get a new key cut by BMW.

 

I'd love advice on what else should be done to the bike at 67k. Hopefully I'll find a maintenance log in the bags but I'm not counting on it.

Given the total disengagement of the clutch, I'm thinking a fresh one is in order. I suppose the adjustment could be massively out of spec, but I'm doubting it.

 

To start:

1) Get keys so I can get to the battery. I'll try to get it charged up for testing.

2) Get the engine running. Bit of gas, maybe some sea foam. (yay fumes), compression test to check the health.

Once I know the engine is a runner...

3) Clutch Job. I watched some videos, doesn't seem too bad. Thoughts on keeping the cost down are welcome.

4) Rebuild or replace the front master cylinder

5) New brake lines all around, maybe hit the pads while I'm in there, complete fluid flush.

6) Usual maintenance items - oil change, etc.

7) Valve adjustement perhaps. I'll see if I can hunt down a new cover to pop on while I have those open.

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So I picked up someone elses problem child. A 98 R1100RT with 67k on it. It's in fair condition, but was definitely laid down at some point. Looks like all was repaired aside from the Right valve cover has deep scratching and the protector is missing.

This is my first 2 wheeled' BMW. I do loads of work on my e46 330xi, so I'm used to BMW engineering and parts at least. I was amused when I saw that several sensors are obviously from the same parts bin.

 

On to the actual problems:

1) No keys. They lost em while it sat for the last year.

2) No clutch engagement. - This is why it sat for a year.

3) Super low fluid in the front master cylinder. I found a fluid drip on the bottom of the MC as well. Some paint damage where the fluid pooled near the cowel vent.

4) Battery is dead. Well, almost certainly, it's hard to tell sans keys!

 

 

Tires look good, all the tupperware is good aside from a missing peg on the left rear side panel.

All the luggage is good, aside from a few scratches.

 

 

My first goal is to hear the bike run. Sadly, I'm mostly stuck until I have a key - I can't even get the seat off without it.

 

I'm going to go get her titled later today, once I have papers I can go get a new key cut by BMW.

 

I'd love advice on what else should be done to the bike at 67k. Hopefully I'll find a maintenance log in the bags but I'm not counting on it.

Given the total disengagement of the clutch, I'm thinking a fresh one is in order. I suppose the adjustment could be massively out of spec, but I'm doubting it.

 

To start:

1) Get keys so I can get to the battery. I'll try to get it charged up for testing.

2) Get the engine running. Bit of gas, maybe some sea foam. (yay fumes), compression test to check the health.

Once I know the engine is a runner...

3) Clutch Job. I watched some videos, doesn't seem too bad. Thoughts on keeping the cost down are welcome.

4) Rebuild or replace the front master cylinder

5) New brake lines all around, maybe hit the pads while I'm in there, complete fluid flush.

6) Usual maintenance items - oil change, etc.

7) Valve adjustement perhaps. I'll see if I can hunt down a new cover to pop on while I have those open.

 

 

Afternoon WilloCo

 

Do it systematically.

 

GET IT RUNNING first as who knows what lurks in the engine runability area.

 

Once running & idling then next address the clutch or transmission. Might be something simple but if the bike sat all that time because of clutch issues then who knows what you will find there.

 

Can you feel any resistance in the clutch lever (like there is still spring pressure in the clutch assembly.

 

Might even be a transmission problem like stripped input shaft splines or a broken shift drum (BMW 1100 had a few of those), or possibly a drive shaft issue.

 

Hopefully just a trashed (cracked/broken) rear-of-transmission clutch lever or a destroyed throw-out bearing.

 

 

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An easier way to get a key, is to remove one of the saddlebag lock cylinders as explained in my video here using piano wire or a large paper clip.

 

 

Once removed, be very careful not to let the tiny bits (wafers) spring or fall out.

Wrap the lock cylinder in masking tape and take to a locksmith.

He should be able to cut a key that will fit the ignition, gas cap, seat, with that.

There is a small chance the bag locks don't match, but not very common.

 

You could use the same vid to remove the seat lock cyl and do the same.

 

IF the locksmith doesn't have a blank, the dealer should. Then let the locksmith do his thing.

 

Don't get in a rush with the bike and start buying a ton of parts before you know what you have.

Seafoam: save your 6.00

If you wish to add anything to the fuel to help clean the injectors that actually works, BMW car and bike dealers sell a product called BMW Fuel System Cleaner Plus.

Bike dealers finally got a five ounce bottle rather than the big twenty ounce. It's once ounce per gallon.

 

Edited by Tri750
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I'm surprised by the video, usually locks (yakima style, etc) need to be in the unlocked position to pull the core.

Right now I can't find my picks, and that's frustrating me! I managed to pop the 'glove box' on the front side of the box but only found a can of brake fluid in there.

A dealer cut key cost me all of $40 but that'll be helpful if I have a mismatched core. Since I live in the middle of upper nowhere, I chose the dealer key route. It's already an hour drive to get to a dealer and the same for a lock smith. I'm more confident in a new key than the random locksmiths around here. I put alot of time into getting keys cut for an old BMW car and that was an epic pain with an original key!

 

re: seafoam, I wasn't thinking fuel injection. For carbs I like it and for old gas I like it. If the tank is empty enough some fresh fuel should let me flush things out.

 

When I ordered the key, I grabbed a bmw branded hella power connector made for battery tenders. Right now I'm trying to resurrect the battery in the bike with the slow charge setting on my battery charger.

So far it's declared the battery bad once, but I've often had luck by running the charge cycle a few times. I will replace it if the bike is a runner but for now I'm trying to avoid going 'parts crazy'.

I am looking for parts quite a bit but waiting to pull the trigger on anything major until I see the bike actually run.

 

Current priority is really front brakes.- I need to rebuild the front master brake cylinder. It's clearly leaking and needs to be swapped or rebuilt. Meanwhile, the wait for the key continues. I'm tempted to go ahead and rebuild the brake calipers while I'm doing brake work. Same age and I'll replace the brake hoses when I re-install them. That said, I'm not ordering internal parts until I pull the trans and see what the story is on the clutch.

 

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if you want to get a preview of the front master , remove it after you find the hidden screws behind the handgrip lip and from all points of the compass and see if you can remove the brake lever . when the master leaks for a while it all but welds the lever fastener to the brake perch/master .

if you can get the lever off, you are fortunate and Beemer Boneyard (East) or Boxer 2 Valve (West) will have a kit.

If the fasteners are frozen , i've had to get caveman ugly to remove the lever and had to buy a new master .

you can get a master without lever but the bmw parts guys often can't find it and only see the master with lever assembly that's crazy money .

i admire your optimism on the batt , but ....

Edited by Tri750
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The brake lever was pretty easy to remove, no issues with the pivot pin.

I found a magura kit at Dennis Kirk for $44 shipped so that's on the way. Once I found the SKU for the kit it was easy to find. Part number 2701122

The cylinder is definitely the leak source, there was fluid all along the dust boot.

 

I've got a set of stainless/teflon brake hoses coming since I'll be in there. Meanwhile, I'm going to see if I can't machine an adapter for my power bleeder. Fluid flushes are trivial with that thing once you can hook it up.

 

So far it seems like the best option for clutch parts is the full set from the boneyard for $365. I know I may be able to get away with just a disc but given the amount of work to get in there I'd rather do the job right.

Edited by WilloCo
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Did you get her running? How does she sound? The brake MC seemed to be a finicky thing to reassemble, but I got mine back together. Dave

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Waiting for my key and new battery to arrive, so not yet. I should have her turning over by the end of the week.

 

I pulled the retainer screw earlier and lost the return spring. Happily I double checked and the kit I ordered has it.

Seems like I need to hit the outer lip with a bit of fine grit but mostly the cylinder looks good. The seals on the piston were pretty dry.

 

 

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Picked up my key the other day and it works on everything!

 

Pulled tupperware yesterday along with the tank. I quit for the day to let the spilled fuel evaporate.

Today I swapped out the battery with a new oddesy and managed to get the bike to turn over! Since the tank is off, I sprayed some starting fluid up the intake and she kicked right over.

Sounded good, but I only get a few revs off starter fluid. I'm looking forward to getting the tank back on and running her in.

 

I installed a battery tender cable while I was there and I'll add some form of jump start extension before it goes back together.

I'm going to add an external fuel filter and pull the internal. I've got the flex hoses coming from the boneyard for that.

A local gas station here once got diesel delivered to the wrong tank if you need a reason.

 

I'll see if I can get the trans pulled this weekend. Then I'll see where I'm at.

 

 

Edited by WilloCo
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I managed to pop the 'glove box' ...

 

Now, if you're going to have a quirky bike, you should be familiar with the terminology. I myself mistakenly referred to it as the "frunk" a la Tesla, but it is actually called (and I do love this part):

 

Oddments Tray

 

I'm sorry, this makes me chuckle every time I say it.

 

Oddments Tray

Oddments Tray

Oddments Tray

Oddments Tray

Oddments Tray

:rofl:

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Bit o progress today. I drove an hour and 15 out of the way to hit a good gear shop and look for new riding boots. I gave my old ones away when I moved. Ended up with Toucans.

 

This afternoon I pulled the peg boards, rear wheel and starter. I'll probably get the trans off tomorrow and then I'll found out if I need a new transmission shaft or not.

 

Useful note: I treated myself to a 3/8 milwaukee power ratchet a couple months ago, combined with a set of 6 inch long allen head sockets the job was very easy. The power ratchet is one of my favorite tools - it really keeps down the wrist fatigue.

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My slow progress continues, I pulled the rear drive last night. I'll probably hit the swing arm later today. The work actually isn't that bad, it's finding the time!

 

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Photos!

 

I'm noticing a trend among my vehicles... the ones I've liked the most have been the easier to work on. My subie, the RT, & the old Honda Civic... fasteners easily turned and nicely accessible. Sensible layouts, etc.

 

The Volvo and the Chevy, not so much.

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Puddles- the reason your fasteners turn easily is two words- Fresno, California. My 3 words- Syracuse New York, mean that fasteners don't typically turn since everything rusts within 3 or 4 years! Dave

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After running errands this morning, I dug into the bike again and pulled the transmission. It's really not a tough job to get there, but it is a bit time consuming!

 

It seems that I have the dreaded spline damage. Thanks PO!

 

Gory photos are here: https://imgur.com/gallery/QKcSylT

 

If I were desperate, I'd toss in a new clutch disc. However, being me, I'm just torn between buying another transmission or just replacing the input shaft.

 

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I picked up a trans on ebay for the bike. Interestingly the serial ends in EBA. This trans is from a 95...

Looking at http://largiader.com/tech/oiltrans/ It seems that EBA is a later date trans. I'm suspecting that it's a later model M97 rather than the M94 that was originally on a 95 bike. Perhaps it was a BMW dealer replacement? Either way it'll get my bike back on the road in a week or two.

 

I'm thinking that I'll see about rebuilding my m97 when I have more off time.

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OK, yeah, it seems that on all M97 Transmissions the last three characters start with E. This is certainly a M97 and better yet, I think it was pulled from another much newer bike - perhaps from 2001 or so or maybe it was a replacement purchased from BMW.

 

Either way, I think I scored on this transmission, it seems that newer M97s usually go for quite a bit more than M93/M94 from older bikes.

 

Since I have a plan for this, I'll get back to working over my brakes this week.

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Good news and bad news on my brakes. I ordered the wrong lines. I went out to see about them earlier and yeah I ordered the non-ABS set. Sigh.

 

However, my power bleeder adapter for my e46 BMW car fits the rear brake reservoir perfectly!

So, I just need to machine an adapter for the front and I can use my power bleeder - which kicks the hell out of using vacuum bleeders!

 

If you're interested, I have one of these: amazon.com/Motive-Products-Power-Bleeder-0109/dp/B000Q6SL2W

I love it for my cars. I have a couple of bleeder bottles and usually do one side at a time.

 

The adapter will be pretty easy to machine, All it really needs is a quick facing pass, then drill out 5 holes. 4 for the screws and one for the bleeder connection.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've been busy, but progress continues.

 

1) New transmission and clutch are installed. I need to pull the frame back up to get the airbox clips accessible again. *facepalm*

Note for swappers - I had to swap my shifter linkage arm. Otherwise everything on the transmission is the same.

2) Brake lines are now all replaced. There was nasty fluid in there. I'm glad I'm flushing it all soon.

 

3) Master brake cylinder is rebuilt. Hit it with some 600grit sand paper and assembled.

 

4) The boot on the rear master cylinder is pretty dead. I'm going to use it for now and add rebuild/replace to my winter work list.

 

My power bleeder adapter is cutting out on my cnc mill as I write this. I am a huge fan of the Motive power bleeder. I hated bleeding brakes for years until I got that thing.

The adapter is just a 1/2 inch 6061 aluminum plate that's cut to the same size as the lid. An extra hole in the middle for a 1/4 npt nipple and some longer metric hex head screws.

The adapter for my BMW car is the same size as the rear MC so I didn't need to get one for that.

 

For riding I'm down to:

 

Oil change

Brake bleeding

Get the clips for the airbox back up

Reassemble the tupperware

 

Optional projects:

Valve adjustment

External fuel filter (I just spent this morning changing the fuel pump in the wifes car, I'm not looking forward to more tank work.)

 

Winter projects:

The windshield bracket seems to be out of alignment. I suspect it's bent. Need to get in there and possibly replace some metal.

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Oil is changed, brakes got a full bleed and flush. The adapter worked great.

To seal it I just cut out the middle of the old master cylinder seal. Power bleeder for the win!

 

I thought I overfilled the oil but after turning the engine over a few times then letting it sit overnight the oil is at the perfect level in the sight glass. Go figure.

 

At this rate I think I'll get a couple rides in before the weather fully changes...

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It's alive. Took it out on the first ride today. Just a quick 15 mins down the road to fill up with premium and shake things out.

Now... I need a shifter extension. I'm wearing Alpinestars Toucans and I had problems upshifting with all the pro.

It's just hard to reach that thing.

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Oh a couple extra notes.

I put in an oddessy battery from Amazon. It came with some terminal L brackets.

On the positive terminal, I added an extra long m8 bolt. It now sticks out enough to be used for jump starting. When not in use, it's covered by a piece of fuel line.

I also added a battery tender connection. I have the BMW specific adapter but I don't trust that weathered hella connector.

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Amazing how much you've accomplished, well done. Since you've put the odyssey battery in you should change the vreg or modify it to fully charge the battery and get a tender designed for an AGM battery. If you open the tank plan to replace the hoses and pump vibration damper. This model is a bit surge prone so you'll find it runs much stronger with an AF-XIED.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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Today was a nice few hours of mountain riding (Ok, they all are for me since I live on them.) Anyhow, I took a trip over by Winter Park to grab a sandwich in Fraser. (Wife thinks I'm nuts for going

Good ride, only had one real issue - The throttle handgrip heater stayed on no matter what I did to the switch. I finally stopped and pulled the fuse.

 

The bike handled well, I really liked being able to adjust the windscreen. I definitely want a shifter extension for riding with the alpinestars Toucans. I adjusted it up higher before I left today and it was easier to use but still not very natural.

 

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