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final drive ID


arkmark

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the seal behind the flange on my final drive is leaking. I'm looking at parts right now for my model year and there are two different variations for the final drive, how do I know which mine has. The options are either "with vent" or" integral abs 2" My bike is a 2012 rt. Thank you for your help.

 

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the seal behind the flange on my final drive is leaking. I'm looking at parts right now for my model year and there are two different variations for the final drive, how do I know which mine has. The options are either "with vent" or" integral abs 2" My bike is a 2012 rt. Thank you for your help.

 

 

Morning arkmark

 

Some early camhead 1200 bikes had the non vented final drive. All the later bikes have (should have anyhow) the vented final drive. Your 2012 should have a vented final drive, BUT!- that is as built from the factory.

 

If you aren't the original owner of the bike (right from shipping crate) then no guarantee that it has the correct final drive on it as dealers have been known to remove final drives from an in-stock bike to put on a good customers bike to get them back on the road, then order a new replacement for the in-stock bike.

 

Best bet is to just look to see IF your bike has a vented final drive. (see picture below)

 

7dJ77Lb.jpg

 

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tommy carcetti

I recently had the rear seal go on my 2012 RT, at 17k.

 

Ordered replacement from BikeBandit using their parts fiche before disassembly.

The part number on their system turned out to be smaller diameter.

They have great customer service and I returned the seal. Giving them my VIN they were able to determine that the part number I needed wasn't available through them.

I ordered through a dealer.

 

As an aside, I also learned through the replacement process that my rear differential was overfilled. I measured about 222cc of oil (and probably a few additional cc's clinging to gears/housing). Not sure if this contributed to the failure of the seal. Don't know when previous service was done but I'd put about 5k miles on it before noticing that the seal was starting to weep.

 

Replaced rear bearing, seal, large O-ring, refilled with proper amount of oil, cleaned lubed rear splines, and all is right with the world.

 

 

 

 

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I recently had the rear seal go on my 2012 RT, at 17k.

 

Ordered replacement from BikeBandit using their parts fiche before disassembly.

The part number on their system turned out to be smaller diameter.

They have great customer service and I returned the seal. Giving them my VIN they were able to determine that the part number I needed wasn't available through them.

I ordered through a dealer.

 

As an aside, I also learned through the replacement process that my rear differential was overfilled. I measured about 222cc of oil (and probably a few additional cc's clinging to gears/housing). Not sure if this contributed to the failure of the seal. Don't know when previous service was done but I'd put about 5k miles on it before noticing that the seal was starting to weep.

 

Replaced rear bearing, seal, large O-ring, refilled with proper amount of oil, cleaned lubed rear splines, and all is right with the world.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Why did you replace the bearing? Excessive play?

Edited by Highway41
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tommy carcetti

 

After the level of effort required for seal replacement, I decided that I would go ahead and replace the bearing while I was in there.

 

Was an interesting exercise overall.

An 8x8 piece of 5/8" aluminum plate from Ebay, some extra long fine thread bolts from McMaster Carr, a piece of 2" electrical conduit as a right sized spacer, Home Depot 5/8 all thread/nuts, a 1/2" breaker bar and I had a puller for the disc carrier.

 

And assembly gave me an excuse to pick up a Harbor Freight press.

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