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1150RT Suspension Sag


RTmutter

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I am putting new (used) shocks on my 2004 R1150RT. I wanted to get some opinions on what sag numbers others have used. I have read that the total sag (rider on bike) should be based on percentage (25%-30%) of spec wheel travel and I have also read that total sag should be set to fall within a range (ex. 20-30mm for front, 30-40mm for rear. Others give a broader range). What is the preferred or best method to use? What have other R1150RT riders set their sag to? Do you prefer to have the bike a little higher in the front, a little higher in the rear or set at level?

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I got a set of used Ohlins and have installed them on my R1150RT. Preload adjustment and rebound adjustment on both shocks. No problems with installation. I ride solo almost always. I am wondering what process others use to set their sag and what actual numbers for static sag and rider sag (inches or mm) they end up with. Anyone ride with the one end of the bike higher or lower or is a neutral position preferred?

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I have a set of Ohlins on my GSA. I searched around on the web and found settings based on my model shock and application. I would try and use what Ohlins recommends.

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I have a set of Ohlins on my GSA. I searched around on the web and found settings based on my model shock and application. I would try and use what Ohlins recommends.

 

And determine if the used shocks were set up for a specific size/use rider.

The springs on my Wilbers were for my weight (in riding gear) with touring load, and variation with 2 up.

 

A solo rider much smaller than me might find them stiff.

 

So, history of shocks important, IMO.

 

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I checked with Ohlins in NC and verified that the springs are correct for my weight and riding style (lucky break considering they were used). I plan to fiddle with the sag adjustments some today or tomorrow, hopefully get to a good point, and then move on to the damping adjustments.

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I put an Ohlins on my front of my R1100R and set the sag with me on it at 1/3 of total travel. I used the old zip tie on the fork slider trick to see how much travel I was using and for set up. I adhere to the theory that you're supposed to bottom out/use all travel on the biggest bumps. And I try to run as low a ride height as possible so my short legs can reach the ground. Did the same thing on the rear.

 

I find the old Beemer to have an adaptable suspension. I can load it up with gear or a passenger and not have to adjust. Or I just might be lazy. But I don't find ride height to be all that critical. YMMV

Dave A

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I adhere to the theory that you're supposed to bottom out/use all travel on the biggest bumps.

 

Interesting theory. How are you deciding what the 'biggest bumps' are?

 

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RTMutter,

 

After a long discussion with Ted Porter about bike suspension (I was and am completely ignorant about it), he recommended this Ted Moss vid that gives a good "primer" or basics on setting up bike suspension. This helped me kinda understand some of it.

 

Mortocycle Suspension setup

 

I had to watch it several times (I'm a slow learner) to get a grasp. But I can tell you this, once you follow the directions and get the suspension on your bike in the general vicinity of correctly tuned, you can really tell the difference. It's fairly simple, really, but what a difference.

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I am putting new (used) shocks on my 2004 R1150RT. I wanted to get some opinions on what sag numbers others have used. I have read that the total sag (rider on bike) should be based on percentage (25%-30%) of spec wheel travel and I have also read that total sag should be set to fall within a range (ex. 20-30mm for front, 30-40mm for rear. Others give a broader range). What is the preferred or best method to use? What have other R1150RT riders set their sag to? Do you prefer to have the bike a little higher in the front, a little higher in the rear or set at level?

 

https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/world/documents/2006/01/MI_BM525.pdf

https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/world/2007/06/MI_BM125_2_x.pdf

https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/world/2004/04/MI_BM124_1_x.pdf

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I adhere to the theory that you're supposed to bottom out/use all travel on the biggest bumps.

 

Interesting theory. How are you deciding what the 'biggest bumps' are?

 

I primarily commute on my motorcycles. For shocks I prefer an o-ring on the shaft (must be put on during assembly), but a small zip tie works.

 

I would ride my commute and adjust preload accordingly - assuming you have the correct spring rate. It can become a compromise between compliance and ability to absorb larger bumps.

 

20 to 30% travel can be a good starting point.

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Info from Ohlins:

 

Refer to page 2 of : https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/world/documents/2006/01/MI_BM525.pdf for the R1, R2, R3, F1, F2, F3 locations

So from my Ohlins manual for the 1150RT:

The free sag rear (R1 - R2) should be between 5 - 15 mm

The free sag front (F1 - F2) should be between 25 - 30 mm

 

The ride height rear (R1 - R3) should be between 25 - 35 mm

The ride height front (F1 - F3) should be between 30 - 40 mm

 

If your bike measurements are significantly different from the mounting instructions or the table above, Adjust spring pre-load.

 

If the ride height still differs from the recommendations you may need to change to a softer / harder spring.

If so, contact Ohlins.

 

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AndyS - its subjective to a point. In the normal kind of riding I do its typically when you unload the suspension then have the full weight of the bike and your momentum reload the suspension. Gravity bumps we call them over here. I try to go as light as possible for my 28" inseam challenge, and want to use all the suspension travel. Suspension leverage ratios aside of course. Because if you go so low on ride height the ratio change can make the movement harsher. I'm a dirt bike rider so I've been trying to touch the ground for a long time and apparently enjoy skinning my knuckles on shock spring collars. Now if you're trying to steepen your steering angle by raising the rear ride height. Well that's another matter. Beyond my talent level on the street. Overall, I really like the Beemer's suspension, very progressive and smooth riding.

DaveA

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