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Hungry for headlights


moshe_levy

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Here is a post I made from "another forum". This was from a month ago, still no CANBUS errors. Although my riding has been cut down to almost nothing in the past month due to weather declining in ND.

 

I think I'm ready to give a preliminary report on the ADV Monster H7 Plus LED headlights.

H7 Plus LED Headlight - ADVmonster

 

They are well built like previously mentioned. My pair arrived yesterday. Like I stated earlier, I decided to give it a try without removing the whole headlight assembly. I first had to figure out which was the positive lead. I was guessing I'd need to leave the halogen bulb in so the computer wouldn't shut off the HL thinking there was a bulb out. With the wires coming from the throttle side of the assembly, the top wire ended up being the hot lead. Then I had to let the halogen bulb cool down before I could remove it.

 

The new LED came in with the adapter ring I was going to need to secure with the wire clips first. I took a chunk of the bubble wrap and rolled it into a cigar. I pushed that into the adapter ring. So it was a snug fit. Then I could hold onto the adapter ring without worrying about dropping it into the headlight assembly. I had to carefully get the wire spring carefully past the bubble wrap. But then I was able to secure the spring clips down easily. Then I pulled out the bubble wrap cigar.

 

Next I plugged in the little LED driver box and dropped that into the bottom of the hole, leaving the one lead wrapped around to the top of the hole. I then inserted the LED light into the adapter and twist locked that in. I then plugged it into the driver box. That has a screw type ring to secure that connection. I tucked that into the hole. I was then able to spread the braids a little, and tuck them into hole. I had no issue putting the cap on.

 

I did a test firing up of the bike. LED turned on normally. No light out errors!

 

Later in the evening, I took the bike out for a 10 minute ride. I did the flash to pass, switched to highs and back to low. No CANBUS errors. I rode to work this morning, make a stop off at an office. So I've had at least 5 different cold starts of the bike. No errors as of yet.

 

As to the brightness, it appears brighter to me. But this is purely looking at it in the day time. This weekend, I plan on pulling the wife's RT out of the shop and put it on the center stand. Then do the same with mine. Have both pointed at my garage door and do a comparison. I'll probably do this at dusk and try to get a good picture taken to compare. That way I can post the results for everyone to see.

 

Color-wise, I'm really happy. It matches beautifully to the LED halo's and to my Clearwater Darla's.

 

Currently, I have no intentions of putting LED's in the high beam position. I have 2 of those, plus the 2 Darla's. So loss of high beam won't bother me. And I really don't ride at night all that much with high beams on, so I don't care if they don't color match. Maybe if someone else has good results with this low beam and a set of LED high beams, I may switch. But for now, I'm happy with they way it is. If all continues to goes well, I'll swap the wife's bulb out in 2 weeks. She has never had her's replaced yet.

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Hi Jay. Without a doubt, the best and easiest way is to remove the complete headlight unit.

 

Do you or can you tell me where to find instructions on headlight remove/replacement? Any info would be a great start.

 

Jay

 

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Hi Jay. Without a doubt, the best and easiest way is to remove the complete headlight unit.

 

Do you or can you tell me where to find instructions on headlight remove/replacement? Any info would be a great start.

 

Jay

 

Jay,

 

I bought a Haynes Manual (ISBN 978 1 78521 281 9) and used the pictures/instructions therein. I didn't install a LED replacement though, just bent the tabs and clasp wires where I could easily fasten and unfasten them from the front of the bike.

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Hi Jay. Without a doubt, the best and easiest way is to remove the complete headlight unit.

 

Do you or can you tell me where to find instructions on headlight remove/replacement? Any info would be a great start.

 

Jay

 

Jay,

 

I bought a Haynes Manual (ISBN 978 1 78521 281 9) and used the pictures/instructions therein. I didn't install a LED replacement though, just bent the tabs and clasp wires where I could easily fasten and unfasten them from the front of the bike.

 

Thanks Ken, I knew I brought the Haynes Manual for a reason :dopeslap: I've been using a CD I have for all services plus one for repairs but it didn't have anything on headlight removal. The write in Haynes looks like I'll get to this sooner then a winter project.

 

Jay

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Jay, it involves a LOT of fasteners. But it isn't too complicated. Getting the pins out of the windshield linkage is about the only thing that takes any finesse. Actually removing the housing is a pleasant surprise!

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I've been using a CD I have for all services plus one for repairs but it didn't have anything on headlight removal. Jay

 

Hi Jay, if you have the BMW CD it is in section 63 12 090

 

 

Preparatory work

Remove windscreen

 

Removeg left side panel

 

Removeg left speaker cover

 

Remove left front-fairing panel

 

Remove left mirror

 

Remove top trim panel, left

 

Remove right side panel

 

Remove right speaker cover

 

Remove right front-fairing panel

 

Remove right mirror

 

Remove top section of fairing, right

 

Remove cover for windscreen adjuster

 

Disengage windscreen adjuster

 

Remove centre top section of fairing

 

 

Core activity

Remove headlight

 

 

Remove cable tie

 

 

Disconnect plug (1) for the headlight.

 

 

Remove locking 'C' washers (3 each side).

 

 

Slide lamp assembly forward and away from bike.

 

 

 

 

Edited by AndyS
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You guys are great, thank so much for the help removing the headlight of my RT, should be a smooth job. Special thanks to Ken, Terry and Andy S!

 

Jay

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My 2017RT wethead bulb just went out at 17600 miles. Replaced with OEM in about 15-20 mins. I found removing the upper Allen screw at the top of the horn bracket and letting it swing down out of the way dramatically improved access to the bulb and clips.

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  • 2 months later...

I started my project today the bike is apart and the headlight is out, I now need to connect the wiring to the LED ADVMonster bulb. The directions says I have a brown wire (negative), all wires are black, three of them. Two on one lead, can you tell me the negative side? I hope my attachment is there.

 

Jay

7079.jpg.f1b44acabcd23946b46b27f170da6766.jpg

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When I took a meter to mine, top wire was the hot, bottom was the negative.

 

Was this the orientation of the original H7 Halogen bulb? I need to know the connection from the bike. Appreciate the help

 

Jay

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The folks at ADVmonster have outstanding customer service, I wrote to them last night they have replied. "The H7 Plus will work whichever direction you connect it. So it is not sensitive to polarity." I should be good to go.

 

Jay

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The folks at ADVmonster have outstanding customer service, I wrote to them last night they have replied. "The H7 Plus will work whichever direction you connect it. So it is not sensitive to polarity." I should be good to go.

 

Jay

 

That reply makes perfect sense for an incandescent bulb, but not for an LED. After all, it's a diode. One of the properties of a diode is that current only flows in one direction.

 

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I would guess they have some sort of polarity detection in the LED driver box. I'm sure what is actually fed to the LED is proper polarity.

 

IIRC, the wires on the bike naturally come from the right side of the bike. So when plugged in, that's what I was referring to top and bottom. I didn't pull my light out, so I couldn't get a real good look at the wires themselves.

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The job is complete, I removed the headlight to install the ADVmonster H7 Plus bub. It's a job to get the headlight out and back in but worth it. The bulb installation was super easy. Customer service at ADVmonster answered my polarity question which I know sounds strange but it worked (I did have a 50% chance of getting it correct) I did test before putting it all back together but didn't check the other way since it was good, I moved forward. With the help of this form I got the info I needed plus I picked up the BMW repair manual CD. Thanks again to all that help me! I did all of this within a week of hernia surgery. I didn't move the bike and won't for a while so I don't know the pattern of the light but so far it looks good. It didn't happen unless I have a picture, please see attached

 

Jay

 

 

 

7080.jpg.f2b41d067770ea9817355020b9e0fa71.jpg

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hey jay...congrats....which pegs do you have on your bars and do you like them? Ive had the bars since the bike was nearly new but have yet to add pegs

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I would guess they have some sort of polarity detection in the LED driver box. I'm sure what is actually fed to the LED is proper polarity.

 

Yeah, that would make sense, especially when they know they're connecting to a source that may not be marked for polarity.

 

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If it works as well as mine does.....you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner!

 

 

Thanks realshelby for your help with this. I have other pictures that are blinding but the one I posted seem to look best, the 6000 lumens should light the way I just hope the pattern is good. You seem happy, I'm sure I'll be thrilled!

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 1/26/2019 at 3:45 AM, alexp said:

Add a pair of Ericas from Clearwater over the mirrors using the POLICE OEM brackets and you will be very happy with results.

 

But, they do look so ugly sat up there.

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6 hours ago, AndyS said:

 

But, they do look so ugly sat up there.

Andy, then add them on the bottom in a set of BMW fog light brackets. 

Like I did to my RT, pictured on the left. If you really want to stand out, order the light cover set. Then you can make one white and one yellow. 

E8FB183B-2962-422D-95C0-299CABFAF32D.jpeg

  • Like 1
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On 10/25/2016 at 10:50 AM, gordiet said:

I had the same problem with the hex head that I owned. Started using di-electric grease and never had another bulb failure. GT

+1

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  • 1 month later...

Another LED low beam installed on a wethead RT. Prior to this I rode 58K miles and went through about 4 or 5 halogens. I tried to replace it the first time with another halogen but failed miserably and had to take it to the dealer to finish the job from then on. My big fumble fingers were hurting and numb after that episode. After reading others success stories with this LED retrofit I decided to give it a try and am happy with the results. It was a job. Could not have done it without some encouragement from you guys, and especially RealShelby's pictures of the front end taken off, showing me where I had to go. That Haynes manual has grainy pictures, tiny fonts, and jumps all over the place. Worst part was dropping little clips and screws into the deep recesses, finding them, and retrieving them with one of those magnet thingies. Glad I did it. Hope it's the last low beam I replace on this bike.

 

1595446888_2014BMWRTheadlightremoved.thumb.jpg.8e6cea35777a2470ccf4921fed7a5811.jpg1306563087_BMWRTLEDretrofit.thumb.jpg.9d026ac2879f7354cf8117f1c9a70fa5.jpg21814311_2014BMWRTwithLED.thumb.jpg.c20ca7d263887d982d5140b4ddb22527.jpg

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I am sure you could install one of these without removing the front of the bike. Which sounds worse than it is.

 

My LED conversion has been flawless. I carry a spare, but it has not been needed. Have a feeling it is all but a permanent fix. 

 

As you probably already know, the difference in light output is huge, but the white color of the light is just as welcome on rainy nights!

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Were you able to stuff the ballast (or whatever they call that box) inside the assembly or did you have to drill a hole in the cover?

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I tucked the LED into the housing no problem, braids, driver and all, no problem. The white light is nice. I could never have done this without taking the front of the bike off. When said and done it was not too hard to do.

 

2014 BMW RT LED in housing.jpg

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Following this thread has convinced me to convert to LED.  Maybe a final straw was that I have read that LED bulbs produce much less light in the UV spectrum than halogen bulbs.  That little factoid suggests LED bulbs should reduce the rate of hazing/crazing on the clear front lens of the nacelle. I tend to keep my bikes for decades, so managing their potential geriatric issues is on my radar.

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6 hours ago, Paul4450 said:

Hi Paul De,

this is getting off topic, but if you are concerned about hazing, I would recommend applying a clear bra to your headlight (along with other body parts). I used this one from tankslapper. 

 

https://thetankslapper.biz/r1200rt-total-protection-kit-2014-2019/

 

Yes, I have one fitted and it has proved to be very good. Moreover, it doesn't seem to scatter the light like the other covers you can get (like the Aeroflow/CeeBailey items).

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I've been following this thread and others, for a while and have decided to go the ADVMonster LED route.

After a lot of patience and contortions I have stuffed the advmonster LED light in mine without removing the headlamp assy.

It's doable...

Now if the ice on the roads can melt...

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17 hours ago, PatM said:

I've been following this thread and others, for a while and have decided to go the ADVMonster LED route.

After a lot of patience and contortions I have stuffed the advmonster LED light in mine without removing the headlamp assy.

It's doable...

Now if the ice on the roads can melt...

What year is your ride? I'm about to pull the trigger on three (one two low and one high beam).

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5 hours ago, Pappy35 said:

What year is your ride? I'm about to pull the trigger on three (one two low and one high beam).

Sorry Pappy35, I just saw you post. I have a 2016.

 

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14 minutes ago, Pappy35 said:

The 2010-2013 use three H7 bulbs. 

 

???  I am confused. this is the Wethead not the Camhead forum.

 

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ADV Monster LED H7 on 2016 R1200RT

 

I got the single H7 Low beam on Friday, removed existing bulb and installed this kit in 30 min.  

Since I've had 2 previous bulb failures of the center H7, the practice helped.  The other huge help was having the bike up on my lift.  When it's up off the floor, you have room for your body to be low and can reach up behind the light assembly without being a contortionist. 

 

There are a couple of tips to pass on...

1.  I used a 4in long pencil with eraser end to save my fingers while unhooking/hooking the spring wire bulb retainer.

2.  The tab on the kit circular adaptor held in by the wire retainer only fits in the up position on the reflector housing.

3.  After the adaptor is installed and it's time to insert the light, watch/guide the alignment and pin engagement process thru the front lens of the headlight since it's up out of sight where your hands are.

4.  The only area I could find space to "stuff" the connected wires and included small module box, was on the bottom of the area behind the reflector.  There is room for everything, and the 4 braided heat sinks tuck in the space just like open flower petals. 

 

I have not ridden the bike yet since it's still too cold out.  I'll report on the light pattern/cut-off and compare its color (temp in deg Kelvin) to stock and my aftermarket bulb that was closer to the temp of the Angel Eyes/Halo rings when I can get on the road.

IMG_2169.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I have owned my R1200RTW since September 2014 now done 60,000+ miles - and yep I have replaced three low beam headlamps so I am getting quite good at it (it makes absolutely no difference what bulbs you buy - get the cheapest) - only took 45mins last time :-((

But the last time I was not on the road so I took some time to take photos, you can't see anything, everything has to be done by feel, and It helps if you have a good idea what your trying to do.  One shows the two spring arms engaged and the connector in place, the other shows the arms disconnected and the connector removed. 

Img_6624.jpg

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  • Like 1
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10 minutes ago, hefy_jefy said:

I have owned my R1200RTW since September 2014 now done 60,000+ miles - and yep I have replaced three low beam headlamps so I am getting quite good at it (it makes absolutely no difference what bulbs you buy - get the cheapest) - only took 45mins last time :-((

But the last time I was not on the road so I took some time to take photos, you can't see anything, everything has to be done by feel, and It helps if you have a good idea what your trying to do.  One shows the two spring arms engaged and the connector in place, the other shows the arms disconnected and the connector removed. 

 

 

 

 

Evening hefy_jefy

 

Try to find some long-life H-7 bulbs, they WILL last longer but do cost quite a bit more (those H-7 long-life were developed for some automobiles with daylight running lights that ran at full power all the time so had short life).

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I took advantage of a rainy Saturday to mount my Ztecknik engine bars, while i had some of the covers off i decided to go ahead and replace the existing bulb with the LED.  A long process but not hard, of course at the end i found 2 extra screws...  Doh! 

 

Everything seems tight so rather than take it apart to figure out which ones i missed i'll ride it and keep the screws in the glove box. 

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On 4/12/2019 at 6:07 PM, dirtrider said:

 

 

Evening hefy_jefy

 

Try to find some long-life H-7 bulbs, they WILL last longer but do cost quite a bit more (those H-7 long-life were developed for some automobiles with daylight running lights that ran at full power all the time so had short life).

 

The bulbs I used were Philips Longlife EcoVision H7, it was in my bike for over 23,000 sMiles still working when I changed over to advmonster.com LED.

 

Jay

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