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Remove Aftermarket Shock


Twisties

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The aftermarket Works Performance Shocks need to come out. You can see in the picture of the top of the shock that Works has slotted the top of the piston for a screw driver. Unfortunately the nut is about 4" below grade as it were, relative to the fuel tank, other junk and glove box. I can get a 15mm socket on it easily, but the shaft just spins when I turn it. I think Works expects you to use an open end or box end wrench and hold the shaft with a screw driver, but there is no way to get an open/box end wrench in there. Also, it's very possible the mechanic that installed this shock used red loctite instead of the specified blue. I tried heating it some, but still just spun the shaft. Don't want to cook all those wires.

 

i-rqhzr3w-X4.jpg

 

So, I can hold the shock body below, but the shaft still spins with the socket.

 

i-HDb6Js3-X4.jpg

i-dJsnm9L-X4.jpg

 

I don't see any way to get a grip on the actual shaft.

 

Am I going to need to pull the tank and glove box to get this shock out, or do you guys have some ideas for me? Maybe, a slight chance just pulling the glove box will work. Can it come out without pulling the tank? Reprom looks pretty serious on pulling the tank... I prefer not to go there.

 

Thanks!

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Hi Jan,

 

I have a 2007 RT and just replaced my shocks. I found that when I removed the glove box, it gave me a little bit more room to maneuver an offset box end wrench. Not much, but just enough. The OEM shocks have a hexhead instead of a slot for a screwdriver, which might have made the removal a little easier. It is a slow go with only about a 1/4" turn at a time. if I remember right, there are only four screws to remove the glove box. .

 

Ron

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Dennis Andress

No chance of getting a pair of needle nose vise grips between the spring and onto the shock shaft?

 

Or, maybe, hold the nut in place with an offset wrench and turn the shaft with a screwdriver, a screwdriver with a square shank that you can put a wrench on.

Edited by Dennis Andress
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Pneumatic or electric impact gun is probably what I'd try first. After that, I'd go buy a cheap wrench and heat it with a torch so I could bend it into a the shape I'd need to access the bolt.

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I couldn't find the glove box/radio box removal in the rep rom, but looked at it in the online parts fiche. Looks like there is a good chance of getting it out without removing the tank. I'll try that.

 

Thanks

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Try using a crowfoot socket. It's offset should allow you to hold the shaft with a screw driver or vise grip.

 

Plus one, as Bernie mentioned. Also, if you suspect 'Red Loctite' you could try a micro torch; though it might risky...

 

 

DSC_0059_edited_large.jpg

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Could try a socket on the nut held with vise grips or slot the top of the socket to hold with an adjustable wrench. 1/4" impact driver through socket hole with flat driver bit. Run driver on low or medium clockwise while holding the nut still.

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We just tried it with a socket held in a vise grip per Eddd's suggestion (not on this thread). That basically worked, but we couldn't hold the piston well enough with a screw driver, and began to damage the slot. We had it heated to the point that bushing was beginning to melt... very warm to touch on the metal parts. Now not sure what to do.

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We just tried it with a socket held in a vise grip per Eddd's suggestion (not on this thread). That basically worked, but we couldn't hold the piston well enough with a screw driver, and began to damage the slot. We had it heated to the point that bushing was beginning to melt... very warm to touch on the metal parts. Now not sure what to do.

 

Evening Twisties

 

With that screwdriver slot I had my doubts that you would get it loose with a wrench & screwdriver.

 

I usually hit them with a GOOD high powered impact wrench & deep socket & they usually come right off.

 

Maybe rent an electric impact wrench from a local rent-all or if the bike is ridable then ride it to a local auto repair place & my guess is that they will zap it off for you for free if you ask nicely (then re-install nut a few threads to ride the bike home).

 

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We have a compressor and impact wrench. I rarely use it. So you are suggesting using it alone, without trying to hold the shaft at all?

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We have a compressor and impact wrench. I rarely use it. So you are suggesting using it alone, without trying to hold the shaft at all?

 

Morning Twisties

 

Yes, start with that anyhow. If it just spins try stopping re-starting the impact gun a few times in very quick succession (quick starts can allow nut to move before shaft catches up).

 

If it still won't come loose then take the weight off of the front wheel (jack front of bike up slightly) as that places weight on the shock shaft & adds drag to the shaft.

 

I almost hate to mention this but sometimes on real stubborn spinning bolt/nuts (shock shaft/top nuts) I will run the impact wrench is the removal direction then with it still spinning under power hit the forward button/reverse button/ forward button/reverse button a few times as the shaft momentum in one direction with the quick gun reversal can sometimes break the nut loose. (don't overdo this if you intend to re-use shock without a re-build)

 

If you have a small compressor then allow it to come up to full pressure before even trying (I run 175 psi shop air pressure so my impact wrenches have a lot of torque & speed). If your compressor is low psi then be sure to oil the impact gun before using it.

 

Caution: don't just spin the shock shaft continually with an impact as you can burn the upper seal up. Short quick impact bursts beat the heck out of continuous spinning.

 

If the impact won't break it loose then you have problems as it will probably then be a two person job with one using 2 hands & a BIG thick bladed screw driver (full notch filling) with a wrench or (butcher pliers) on the screwdriver shank to hold it & someone else turning the nut. Or it will require drilling the nut in a few places to relive tension so it will come loose more easily.

 

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Impact wrench made short work of that issue. I need to remember I have that thing. I think it's only the second time I've ever used it. Thanks for all the help!

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CoarsegoldKid

Glad you got the nut off. For other garage mechanics doing this task it's my belief that that slotted end is the top of a threaded stud not the top of the piston shaft. Being a stud Works Performance in this case can use the same shock with different adapters to fit different bikes. Were you to turn the stud out it could be reinstalled by the tech rebuilding the shock. The Ohlins is the same way.

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Impact wrench made short work of that issue. I need to remember I have that thing. I think it's only the second time I've ever used it. Thanks for all the help!

 

 

Get yourself a battery powered impact wrench and you'll quickly wonder why you didn't get one earlier. I have a variety of pneumatic impact wrenches, and I can't remember the last time I used one. I'm sure you have an battery powered drill/screwdriver so look to see if there is an impact wrench that uses the same batteries. In any case, you can sometimes get a better deal with some of the kits offered (especially during the holiday season).

 

Lots of other tool options can be added on. I find my battery-powered reciprocating and circular saws to be especially hand. Like the impact wrench, I can't remember the last time I used the corded models.

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