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Front forks


dave_a

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My fork legs look like they've been sand blasted with ball bearings. Then the PO tried to scrape the adhesive off with a utility knife after prying off the reflectors. Pretty bad even for a 19 yr old bike.

I thought about taking the porter cable DA with 80 grit to smooth them out, but waved off. Has anyone polished or powder coated the fork legs? My telelever arm is almost as bad.

Any sage advice for me & my R1100R? thanks/Dave_a

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I don't know about sage advice, but why not just remove the fork legs, get them bead blasted and powder coated. Job done.

Just make sure you REALLY clean the legs of any bead/grit before reassembly. And did I mention to make sure you clean them again, after you thought they were already cleaned. That grit gets everywhere.

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Where in Florida?

 

Is this weather related, caused by salt air environment?

Pitting, oxidation, stains?

Seen it.

Can't suggest a cure, sorry.

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The bike has spent its life on the Florida east coast so I'd guess some environmental effect. But the forward side looks like it got too close to a sand truck.

 

Andy - that is my game plan - let someone else do the prep work. I've polished metal. Tedious, dirty, and time consuming unless you have pro equipment (which I don't).

I am wondering how durable powder coat is? What happens when a leg gets a rock ding? A chip or does it start to peel off as moisture gets under?

Anyone powder coated fork legs?

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The bike has spent its life on the Florida east coast so I'd guess some environmental effect. But the forward side looks like it got too close to a sand truck.

 

Andy - that is my game plan - let someone else do the prep work. I've polished metal. Tedious, dirty, and time consuming unless you have pro equipment (which I don't).

I am wondering how durable powder coat is? What happens when a leg gets a rock ding? A chip or does it start to peel off as moisture gets under?

Anyone powder coated fork legs?

 

Evening dave_a

 

I have powder coated a couple of sets of forks (one I had done by a local shop & one I powder coated myself), they both came out great & held up very good. A little rock chip is just that, a small chip that doesn't migrate or peel.

 

The problem with powder coating forks is the prep work -- Anything that is somewhat porous & has had oil in it is very difficult to powder coat as the heat required to bake the powder coat allows oil to weep out of even very clean alloy fork legs. I don't know how the shop handled the powder coating but when I did my own I ran a pre-bake to allow the oil to bake out of the alloy fork leg metal before I re-glass-beaded them then did the powder coating & final baking.

 

Years ago I also glass beaded a set of fork legs then simply painted them with an epoxy paint. Those forks still look good many years later but I didn't use a top quality epoxy paint so it didn't have much UV protection in the paint. So, even though they still look smooth & even they are a bit faded (not shinny but almost a semi-flat black now). I almost like the faded semi-flat look better then the original shinny black.

 

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Good one Jim, you may be right. I haven't gotten a price from the local powder coating emporium yet. That might end it right there. But I ride with a couple guys with some upscale bikes. I have a little bit of pride left.

DR, a good bead blast might be just what it needs. An even finish would be an improvement. You're from snow country, so you know what "too close behind the sand truck" means!

Thanks guys

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The powder coating, if done correctly will be fine. The coating shop should be able to degrease the leg, and ensure the surface is sufficiently abraded for a good bond. A suitable primer powder would be used. The problem is with shops that don't go through the whole process and so the coating can ship easily and with that poorly prepped surface, moisture and corrosion would track underneath the coating. - but that is true for a painted finish as well!

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I would sand blast them, anodize in the aluminum natural color and then powder coat over the anodized layer with clear powder paint.

 

Dan.

Edited by dan cata
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PJ-1 makes an excellent epoxy spray can paint.

Hard as nails.

Not cheap, on Amazon, Jets or Summit and some bike shops for I think 15.-16. A can.

The gloss is Fast Black, they even do wrinkle finish which may be interesting .

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Hi Dan, Why bother with the powder coat after the surface conversion?

I would imagine the anodized layer would stay on for longer if protected by a clear powder paint layer.

I might do just that for my RT this winter, the front shocks look like could need a fresh look.

Also, the wheels look awful because of the brake pad dust, especially the rear one. I think the powder coat would allow cleaning them to be done more easily.

I have always used ferodo brake pads, platinum ones (soft) and I ride the bike pretty hard, w/ passenger and luggage.

 

Dan.

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I haven't ridden over to the local powder coater for an estimate yet. But I suspect Jim's advice (20yr old bike, quit worrying) will ring true.

So the DIY spray paint option may stay on the table. Thanks for all the feedback guys.

Dave A

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