Advise on buying a shim kit, or not.

Now that my bike is out of warranty I am getting set up to do my own maintenance and looking for input on shim kits. Seems like there are several third party options that are not too unreasonable price wise. It would be a nice thing to have shims of hand, but it seems that these motors don't really need a shim adjustment all that often, so is it better to just buy the needed shim as you go and plan for the added down time?

Given the reluctance of my local dealers to even sell me a shim, (and they don't stock them), I bought a kit via Amazon. I may never need it, but for the price of about 4 shims from BMW, I felt it was worth the investment.

I bought a shim kit. No way I am tearing into the bike and waiting for shims after measuring! Even with the kit I used the last of the one size needed for correction.

I used the 1.88mm and 1.92mm shims to adjust my Wethead. Wiseco kit VSK4.

I have bought just the refill kits for other bikes. But you would have nearly as much money tied up in those after order 3 or 4 sizes you hope cover what you need.

These are 8.90mm diameter. I used a micrometer to measure these and found them to be sized exactly like they were labeled.

You can buy the refill kit pretty cheap.....if you know what sizes you will need. I suspect the sizes I used are commonly used for instance. But, it is still not the same as having the kit on hand.

So can you guys provide some links to these kits and the tools required?

I used to have the full setup kits for my Oil Head and Hex Head, but haven't done anything towards the LC yet.

I used the same kit realshelby used.

It only has a limited range of shims that we can use and they only go in .04 increments. For example there is 2.20 and the next is 2.24. Not a big deal as with our ranges of 2.10 to 2.17 on the intake and 2.34 to 2.41 on the exhaust you will be able to use them.

My GS was tight on 34 on 3 exhaust and 35 tight on the exhaust side. I changed them all to sit at .37 with the above kit and life is good. Using 4 shims out of that kit probably paid for it. I know it made it a lot less hassle for me.

At what mileage are you guys experiencing the need to adjust the shimmage. I know there are variables involved here but, I when took my 2017 in for its 12,000 mile valve ck, they were all in spec. Now I'm coming up on my 24,000 mile ck and just wondering if I can expect an adjustment this time. Still loving my 2017 R1200RT.....

I think a lot of these adjustments are because they were at the upper end of the tolerance when built. I don't think they are 'wearing', just that the owners are more finickety than the guy / machine on the assembly line!

At what mileage are you guys experiencing the need to adjust the shimmage. I know there are variables involved here but, I when took my 2017 in for its 12,000 mile valve ck, they were all in spec. Now I'm coming up on my 24,000 mile ck and just wondering if I can expect an adjustment this time. Still loving my 2017 R1200RT.....

I have 92 k on my 2014 GS and haven't had to change a shim although one valve is getting close to needing a new shim.

Well mine was not in the upper range at all. It was at the lowest tight range. Valves wear tight, not loose.

In range has a wide range of meaning to people.

Technically my exhaust valves was in spec. 34. or 2.34 MM is spec, but the lowest acceptable spec for tight. Again 2.34 to 2.41mm.

So to not have my valves beat up, my valve seats beat up, and increased heat from the valve not opening to it's full extent, I chose to move my exhaust valves to 2.37mm. I should never have to change those again.

Remember a dealer is saying it is in spec if it is 34 or 41, to them that is spec. To me I want the center of the ranges. If too loose they are going to make more mechanical noise and rattle, if tight they are going to interfere with flow and in the exhaust side contribute to carbon build up on the valve seat and the valve.

I checked my valves at 56 miles, 600 miles, 6000 miles and 12000 miles so I had a trend. In 12K they wore in enough to go from smooth play with the feeler gauges to tight with the feeler gauges and 3 were 34 and 1 35 from the 56 mile check. To me that is enough trend to make me want to change them out.

It cost very little to do, you do not have to be a rocket scientist, and allows peace of mind knowing that you are closer to a mid range set then the bottom.

From 23 Cam Checks and finding them all over the place in mostly 15 to 17 year bikes, the guy on the line just does not give a shit, it is "close enough for government work" send it out the door. And all his stuff is mechanically measured. That is only as good as the setup of the machine. They are not sitting there with feeler gauges measuring 8 valves at assembly time.

Your bikes do what you want, but learn how to do some of this stuff and you can make decisions on how you want your bike kept mechanically.

I know I would not want to pay the price of getting a beat up valve or valve seat repaired.

YMMV

I don't believe in tearing into the engine to adjust valve clearance when they are in the range of the factory specifications. My 2014 was at the tight end at the first inspection and second. At the last service done at 35,000 miles one valve was less than the tightest clearance specified in the service manual. So it came apart and every valve that was on the tight side was adjusted. Now all valves are in the mid to upper clearance range. I would be surprised if I ever have to adjust them again.

At what mileage are you guys experiencing the need to adjust the shimmage. I know there are variables involved here but, I when took my 2017 in for its 12,000 mile valve ck, they were all in spec. Now I'm coming up on my 24,000 mile ck and just wondering if I can expect an adjustment this time. Still loving my 2017 R1200RT.....

I have 92 k on my 2014 GS and haven't had to change a shim although one valve is getting close to needing a new shim.

My experience as well. 2016 GSA and valves still check fine at 105K.