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Problem with ABS and bike does not start


Fernando

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This morning, taking advantage of having a free time, I got to change the brake fluid to my bike. Say that until then, the bike has worked perfectly.

I have removed the fairing, the fuel tank, its electrical connection and the two fuel hoses. I have purged the servo and changed the brake fluid. I have reassembled the tank and when I hit the contact, on the one hand the light of the ABS does not blink but remains fixed and when giving the arrnaque, it moves the starter motor but it seems that there is no spark in the spark plugs.

Where should I start looking for the breakdown of the start When changing the brake fluids, should we reset the ABS? If so, how?

THANK YOU

 

 

I just got out of the garage and I'm just like before.

When you hit the contact, this is what you see (and hear):

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BA726pERHU6dzNLn8

The noise that is heard at the end of the video is the servo that activates when I hit the brake lever.

The mini switches on the brake lever and pedal I think work, since when the pulse, the brake light comes on.The position light works correctly.

DO NOT HEAR the gas pump when hitting the contact.

NO spark (I removed spark plugs).

I have not released the ABS connectors.

Battery is new (odyssey)

Gasoline hoses have only one position, so there is no possibility of mistake.

The kickstand sensor seems to work OK (Tested with a multimeter)

The connector of the fuel pump is correctly connected and there is continuity in its 4 cables.

The big servo connector if I had released it to access the traps, but I have disassembled it, applied clean contacts and plugged it back in again.

 

The connector to reset abs, is this? What wire must be connected to the ground?

46154840342_c0b675deb0_b.jpg20181206_162350 by fernando castro, en Flickr

 

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Afternoon Fernando

 

All I get with your link is static pictures (no sound or video) but I am not signed into Google.

 

In any case you make it sound like the engine is cranking OK but no spark?

 

You might test for 12v to the injectors (to see if you are getting power to the injectors & coil).

 

If still no spark then make sure that you didn't pull the wires out of the coil or pull the HES pigtail plug loose when removing the tank.

 

If you have 12v to the injectors & still no spark then maybe disconnect the battery (or remove fuse #5) for about 1/2 hour, then reconnect battery (or reinstall fuse #5) then do TPS re-learn--THEN try starting it again (you might have somehow locked the Motronic out). If you used a GS-911 on the brakes then even more of a possibility of a locked out Motronic.

 

Also, make sure that you didn't knock any relays loose in the fuse box.

 

 

 

 

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Thanks by your answer.

 

What is HES pigtailplug?I didnt use the GS-911 on brakes, but i will try to desconect the fuse number 5.

I will check the relays.

Here you have the video from youtube.

Can be a problem of the sensor hall?

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Afternoon Fernando

 

OK, that points to something different. I really can't be sure as the tiny speakers in my old laptop are not very dynamic but it sort of sounds like your starter is spinning but the starter drive isn't engaging the flywheel.

 

If that is the case then you won't ever get any spark as the engine isn't turning over.

 

Can you confirm--

 

Is that noise coming from the starter?

 

Is the engine cranking over or not?

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Thanks for the information

Dirtrider, the engine is cranking over ., I can see piston moving up and down, but I cant see spark and I doesnt hear the fuel pump when I push start swich...

 

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I'm thinking that yesterday I was driving with fog at night and that today, before starting to dismantle the bike, I have not tried to start it, so the problem of starting equal is different from that I produce the ABS.

If I want to remove the cover covering the alternator pulley, is it necessary to remove the exhaust system or should the cover be easily removed?

 

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Thanks for the information

Dirtrider, the engine is cranking over ., I can see piston moving up and down, but I cant see spark and I doesnt hear the fuel pump when I push start swich...

 

Afternoon Fernando

 

OK, that is a good sign. (it sounded like no load on the starter but if spark plugs are removed then not much starter load).

 

We are then back to a possible locked out Motronic, or a bad #5 fuse, or some other reason the Motronic isn't commanding a spark, or lack of 12v to the coil, or lack of HES (Hall Effect Sensor) input into the Motronic, or ?????

 

Try the 1/2 hour battery disconnect (or #5 fuse removal), verify fuse #5 is good, make sure that you didn't leave any wires or cables disconnected, verify 12v to coils & fuel injectors.

 

 

 

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I'm thinking that yesterday I was driving with fog at night and that today, before starting to dismantle the bike, I have not tried to start it, so the problem of starting equal is different from that I produce the ABS.

If I want to remove the cover covering the alternator pulley, is it necessary to remove the exhaust system or should the cover be easily removed?

 

Afternoon Fernando

 

The belt cover will come off without removing the exhaust but you will probably have to remove a shark fin to work it out.

 

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If I have dismantled the fuel tank from the bike...Can I get spark or 12 v on coil and inyector or is it neccesary tohave installed the fuel tank and his conexion to get 12 volt?

 

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Afternoon Fernando

 

If I have dismantled (removed) the fuel tank from the bike...Can I get spark or 12 v on coil and injector --Yes, you can still get a spark & 12v to coil & injector. And still get an injector pulse (but no fuel will come out of the injector).

 

 

 

 

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The problem Was that when Iit failed the first time and I've been checking the fuses, I have placed the fuse number 5 in the position of heated grips,(number7 which was empty.: Rolleyes:: rolleyes:: Rolleyes:

Now it's my turn to solve the problem with the ABS.

I have test the bike and it works fine. It also brakes well, I can hear the servo working, but the light on the abs and the warning triangle stays on. Where can I pull now?

Edited by Fernando
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I didn't hear the fuel pump either.

My fuel pump just failed the other day, and I went through all the drama. I hadn't done anything to the bike. It had just sat for two months with fuel in it, and the fuel gunked up the pump.

 

You can apply 12V to the fuel pump to see if it is spinning by disconnecting the fuel pump connector going to the tank, and applying 12v to the green and brown wires in the connector going to the tank.

 

I would replace the fuel pump fuse first though, because my fuse looked good, but wasn't. I assume the fuse failed on my bike because of the load a jammed pump placed on it...maybe not, but it definitely failed.

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There is not problem with the fuel pump.The problem was that the fuse number 5 was missing.Now, the motorbike works fine, except the problem with the ABS

The ABS light stay on all the time. No flashing, and the red light triangle also stay on all the time.Servo works fine but ABS doesnt work fine.

See the video

Edited by Fernando
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The problem Was that when Iit failed the first time and I've been checking the fuses, I have placed the fuse number 5 in the position of heated grips,(number7 which was empty.: Rolleyes:: rolleyes:: Rolleyes:

Now it's my turn to solve the problem with the ABS.

I have test the bike and it works fine. It also brakes well, I can hear the servo working, but the light on the abs and the warning triangle stays on. Where can I pull now?

 

Afternoon Fernando

 

EXACTLY what are the General warning light & the ABS light doing?

 

Is one on & the other light flashing or what are they doing.

 

Both General & ABS light on with neither flashing is not a normal occurrence.

 

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General warning light and ABS light stay ON with neither flashing.I have to tell you that today I have been changing the servo´s brake fluid and I dont know if I have done something wrong.I have been using a compreser from a fridge like vacuum pump.

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General warning light and ABS light stay ON with neither flashing.I have to tell you that today I have been changing the servo´s brake fluid and I dont know if I have done something wrong.I have been using a compreser from a fridge like vacuum pump.

 

Afternoon Fernando

 

That is not a normal BMW I-ABS failure light sequence. Makes me think you have something else going on.

 

Give me a while to look through my wiring diagrams to see if anything obvious can cause both lights to be on with neither flashing.

 

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General warning light and ABS light stay ON with neither flashing.I have to tell you that today I have been changing the servo´s brake fluid and I dont know if I have done something wrong.I have been using a compreser from a fridge like vacuum pump.

 

Afternoon Fernando

 

The ABS controller brings the General light on directly but brings the ABS light on using a relay in the fuse box.

 

Any chance that you removed some relays from the fuse box & didn't get them all back in the socket that they came out of?

 

 

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No, i hvent removed any relay from the fuse box.

 

Afternoon Fernando

 

This is going to be difficult problem to solve without more info about the problem, or better yet a failure code or codes from a GS-911.

 

You say the brakes work OK -- correct?

 

You have good power assist using either front lever or rear pedal-- correct?

 

Is the rear brake light working?

 

If possible you might do a low speed hard stop on a somewhat slippery surface (like gravel or dirt) to see if both ends are entering ABS?

 

Somehow we have to determine IF your problem is a brake problem or a basic wiring issue with your bike.

 

With both lights on & neither flashing you have a unique issue.

 

You might also call or E-Mail Module Masters to see if they have ever encountered the "both lights on & neither flashing".

 

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I forgot to mention that the failure of the fixed lights appeasr when purging the deposits of the handlebar and the one in the rear wheel. that is to say, when purging from the 6 purgers that there are in the servo. I have started purging those of the front and rear brake calipers and since this has to be done with the ignition on, I have seen that at that moment the lights did not fail.

At the end of purging the 6 purgers is when I hit the contact, the fault has appeared.

Brakes work OK

 

I have good power assist using either front lever and rear pedal.

The rear brake light work OK

Tomorrow i will try the ABS on a slippery surface and see what happens.

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