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#10368 - 10/27/03 11:42 PM Oil, Tranny, and Final Drive Walkthrough  
Joined: Sep 2002
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KMG_365 Offline
LeftSpin
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San Diego, CA
I wrote this up while waiting to do my Civic Duty in Jury Duty, so you get the next installment early!

Probably one of the easiest jobs to do on the R1150RT is to change the final drive oil and/or the tranny oil. I was going to post another step-by-step walk through, when I just remembered Mitch "Joe Frickin' Friday" Patrie has already written and posted an excellent manual that covers almost all of the servicing on the 1100's with many annotations for the differences for the 1150's as well. I'll just post my thoughts and addenda here for the 1150's.

BMW recommends the same heavyweight gear oil for both tranny and final drive, namely SAE 90 API GL 5 hypoid lubricant, but they also recommend Castrol MTX 75W-140 GL 5 for the tranny as an alternative as well. Many have sworn by the Shockproof Heavy racing oils ability to smooth out the box of rocks that is the BMW tranny, but you're on your own about that. I've been using it for the last 32K miles and it still sounds like it did when new--like it was coming apart with every other shift! Either way you'll need just over 1 liter of oil, as the final drive takes 250 ml and the tranny takes 800 ml. I find usually that they both take just a skosh more to get the level up to the bottom of the threads as called for in the manual, so you might as well buy two liters/quarts so you don't come up short.

Change the oils at operating temperature. Especially for the tranny and final drive that means ROAD TEMPERATURE, not sitting and idling which doesn't warm up the tranny or final drive. (duh! Don't laugh--many have done it).

DON'T FORGET NEW CRUSH WASHERS! As Mitch reminds you in his TechDaze manual, the R1150RT uses different size crush washers from the 1100 and if you just waltz into your dealer and ask for a crush washer kit for "an RT", if the parts person is not on their game, you'll likely get one for the 1100. I've seen this happen to at least two different people at TechDazes so far and you'll have one extra small, but short a large. You should not just re-use crush washers once they're crushed. There are three sizes: Small 18mm O.D. used for the final drive drain and fill plugs; Medium 20mm O.D. used for the engine oil drain plug; and Large 22mm O.D. used for the fill and drain plugs on the transmission.

Other specific tools you'll need:

6mm hex wrench/socket for the final drive fill plug
19mm socket for the final drive drain plug
8mm hex wrench/socket for the tranny drain and fill plugs
Torque wrench (make sure 23 and 30 Nm is in the meat of the range)
You may need adapters to convert sizes for wratchets/breaker bars/torque wrenches
A breaker bar is optional, but it does make short work of the drain and fill plugs.
You need some sort of funnel. I've got quite a collection on my shelf as I kept trying to find one THAT WORKED! Even the crooked one the dealer sells does not go in the 1150's small final drive fill hole and can make a real mess. I finally found one at a dirt bike M/C shop (a MeasuFlow, I think) with a liter sized container--with a lid! It also had graduation marks on the side, a long, clear, flexible tube, a nifty twist-to-shut-off valve feature, a small end piece that fits inside the filler hole, and a cap for the end as well. Gear oil is highly viscous and you'll wait all day trying to get all the oil out of the funnel--it usually waits until you put it on your shelf or toolbox to discharge the rest of its contents. Having a lid and cap lets you just put the whole thing back till next time.

You can buy the gold-plated plastic BMW tranny drain device, or make a flume out of a milk or shampoo bottle, or a trick I learned at Sean Daly's Tech Daze: cut a ~10" scrap of 1 1/2" ABS pipe with a notch cut out.



Either way, you still should put some aluminum foil up behind the footpeg plate and over the cat. Roll the back edge over to help keep the oil from dripping off the back edge. That stuff smells bad enough as it is without burning it onto the cat!




It is a good idea to crack/remove the fill plugs first, so--in the worst case scenario--you know you'll be able re-fill it before you drain everything out. This also prevents a vacuum and helps it to drain faster. The torque values for the 1150's final drive bolts are both 23 Nm, the larger tranny bolts are both 30Nm.


The only other coments relate to the engine oil change:

Mitch's TD Manual is spot on--don't forget to warm it up to five bars and then 5-10 minutes on the side stand first to drain the oil cooler and galleries before putting it up on the centerstand. Another trick I learned at Sean Daly's TD was to use a sharp punch or awl to punch a hole in the bottom of the filter. After all the rest of the engine oil drains out, if the filter is empty also, it makes much less of a mess taking the filter out. Also, Fram oil filter wrench Type: "B" fits the BMW filter and cost me USD 3.49 at my local AutoZone.

Here are some more pics illustrating the steps:

Remove tranny fill plug:






Install drain flume and remove drain plug:





After re-installing the drain plug, fill with 800-900ml of gear oil (BTW, this is not the MeasuFlow)





Remove final drive fill plug.





Remove final drive drain plug. Note the proximity of the bucket to catch the oil. You can also use those "Big-Gulp-type" glasses/plastic tumblers. Otherwise, you'll drip oil all over your rear wheel and rim.





After thoroughly cleaning off the magnetic insert (and looking for large pieces) and re-installing the drain plug, fill with 250-300ml of gear oil.




Congratulations! You're done till the next service interval. laugh


Cool_Jamie "KMG_365"
"Dry-Town" Crew, San Diego
"Maynard" "the Krebs Cycle" '03 R1150RT, black
#10369 - 10/27/03 11:59 PM Re: Oil, Tranny, and Final Drive Walkthrough [Re: KMG_365]  
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AdventurePoser Offline
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Newport OR
Hey, this looks like fun...I think I'll try it on my bike sometime...

Steve


Check out my latest ride tales and culinary adventures here:
Rides, Roads, and Eats
#10370 - 10/28/03 12:04 AM Re: Oil, Tranny, and Final Drive Walkthrough [Re: KMG_365]  
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Spyder Offline
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Northwest CT
As always, a great write-up and pics ! Thanks


'04 Silver RT
'73 Yamaha TX500A
'73 Yamaha DT250
'74 Honda CB125

"We are continually faced by great opportunities brilliantly disguised as insoluble problems"
-Author Unknown
#10371 - 10/28/03 02:43 AM Re: Oil, Tranny, and Final Drive Walkthrough [Re: KMG_365]  
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RightSpin Offline
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South GA Mountains
Jamie and Les, I'm suprised that someone in a dark-black BMW sedan hasn't stopped by for a little "chat".

You guys are making self service easier than ever before. It takes a lot of work to put together the pictures and text to describe how to perform some of these services. Thanks for the efforts you both have put forth.

Even though you are unable to be at the great Georgia International Tech Daze this weekend, you will be there in spirit.


Steve

2016 BMW R1200GS
2003 KTM 625SXC (for sale)
1981 BMW R100CS
#10372 - 10/28/03 03:45 PM Re: Oil, Tranny, and Final Drive Walkthrough [Re: KMG_365]  
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StretchMark Offline
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I would add that the amount of oil in the final needs to be more precise.

Fill to bottom of thread in oil filler hole
...... approx. 0.25 l (0.44 Imp. pints/0.26 US quarts)

I have heard rumors that if a rookie mechanic even slightly overfills the final drive above the filler neck of both his and his wife's bike, gear oil may puke +o( out of the breather all over the final drive and rear wheel. I have heard this stuff is very difficult to clean up, not to mention a real hazard when it gets on the tire.


Mark Davis
#10373 - 10/28/03 04:08 PM Re: Oil, Tranny, and Final Drive Walkthrough [Re: AdventurePoser]  
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brinkjm Offline
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PNW
Quote:

Hey, this looks like fun...I think I'll try it on my bike sometime...

Steve




I'll stop by to show you which end of the "shiny chrome doodad" you use to remove the "drain thing whozie-whatsit."




Jim Brink

PNW
#10374 - 10/28/03 04:54 PM Re: Oil, Tranny, and Final Drive Walkthrough [Re: KMG_365]  
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Brant Herbert Offline
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Brant Herbert  Offline
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At least Leslie has the decency to put some clothes on when out working in the garage. Sheesh!


Brant Herbert
'09 R1200GSA - near Phoenix, AZ

#10375 - 10/28/03 06:18 PM Re: Oil, Tranny, and Final Drive Walkthrough [Re: KMG_365]  
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another David Offline
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central Massachusetts
Just wondering if you might reduce the gush of oil from the drain plugs if you undo the drain plugs before you undo the fill plugs? or is the quantity such that "gush" is an overstatement and not much to worry about?

Great documentation, btw!
David

#10376 - 10/28/03 07:11 PM Re: Oil, Tranny, and Final Drive Walkthrough [Re: KMG_365]  
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Brant Herbert Offline
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You need some sort of funnel. I've got quite a collection on my shelf as I kept trying to find one THAT WORKED! Even the crooked one the dealer sells does not go in the 1150's small final drive fill hole and can make a real mess.

My solution to the funnel problem was to not pour it in, but to pump it in using a gear oil pumper from AutoZone. Stores nicely on the shelf in an old oil bottle after use. See attachment.

Attached Files
259879-pumper.gif (1899 downloads)

Brant Herbert
'09 R1200GSA - near Phoenix, AZ

#10377 - 10/28/03 07:12 PM Re: Oil, Tranny, and Final Drive Walkthrough [Re: KMG_365]  
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bmw_rider Offline
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As Mitch reminds you in his TechDaze manual, the R1150RT uses different size crush washers from the 1100

Question: Where can one find said TechDaze manual?

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