Ohlins Installation R1200RT
Part 2 will be published after I square away a problem I am having with the front shock. The threaded stud on the front shock was not installed properly and is 1/2" too long. More on that later--looks to be a minor and an easy fix anyway. The rear shock was very easy to do taking no more than an hour from start to finish.
Part 1—ESA Rear Shock Removal and Ohlin Shock Installation
Gather your tools:
• Torx T-35, T-45, T-50, T-20, T-15 and the T-50 key out of your BMW kit
• 3/8 Drive Ratchet
• Ratchet extension – short one will do
• 15mm socket
• 15 mm offset wrench
• 6 mm hex wrench
• 5 mm hex wrench
• Torque wrench
• Tie clippers
• Blue loctite
• Torch (if smoking cigar)
• Cutter (if smoking cigar)
• Scissor jack
• Short board
Read the BMW manual prior to attempting the installation on your own and refer to it as needed during the process. If you have any doubt as to your ability, spend the money and take it to your dealer or better still, suck up to one of your buddies that does this stuff in his or her sleep and ask them to do you a favor.
Ok, here we go:
Removing the Rear ESA Shock
1. Remove the seats.
2. Remove the silencer—you’ll need a T-45 torx for the bolt to the frame and a 15 mm wrench to release the exhaust clamp.
3. Remove the rear wheel—you’ll need a T-50 torx, a ratchet and extension.
4. Remove the lower inner mud guard—look for the cable on the right hand side and remove it.
5. Follow the cable from the rear shock up the right hand side of the motorcycle. Cut the zip tie holding the harness and find all three plugs and disconnect them, being careful to squeeze them while pulling them apart. Pull the plugs apart not the wires.
6. Support the swing arm with the scissor jack.
7. Remove the lower bolt—T-50 torx.
8. Remove the top bolt—T-50 torx key and 15 mm wrench or socket.
9. Pull the shock out the bottom being careful to route all the wires out with the shock.
The rear ESA shock weighs 12 pounds—sheesh.
Installing the Ohlin Rear Shock
1. Install the rear Ohlin shock passing it up through the center of the swing arm.
2. Align the preload cable to the left and pass the preload adjuster up and over the frame and down and out the left side of the motorcycle—you’ll mount that later.
3. Insert the bolt at the top of the shock.
4. Insert and thread in the bottom bolt—blue loctite the bottom bolt.
5. Tighten the bottom bolt to 20 Nm, and then finish by tightening to 58 Nm.
6. BMW want you to replace the nut for the top bolt. I didn’t, but plan to purchase a new nut and will install it at a later date.
7. Tighten the top nut to 50 Nm.
8. Attach the preload adjuster to the outside of the frame. Actually, you could attach it under the seat somewhere if you don’t want it on the outside—up to you.
9. Install the lower mudguard.
10. Install the rear wheel—tighten in a diagonal pattern and to a final torque of 60 Nm.
11. Install the silencer, align the clamp and torque to 55 Nm and torque the frame attachment to 19 Nm.
Part 2 out in a couple of days--the front shock.