RichEdwards Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Since my dealer charges $85 for an oil change on my '07 GT, I decided to do it myself. It's not the same as my R bikes, so here's how it's done: First, put the bike on its centerstand, position an oil collection pan underneath and, using an 8mm hex remove the oil drain plug located between two exhaust pipes: Next, remove the last screw in the fairing on the left side under the kick stand so that there is room to get to the oil filter: Since the normal BMW filter removal tool won't fit in the space, I purchased this oil filter tool from a local auto parts store for about $8.00: Using the tool, remove the old filter: Here what it looks like when the filter is off. Since the filter is side mounted, some oil will drip on the nearby pipes. Install the new filter. Since you won't be able to torque the filter, be careful to avoid over-tightening. And since you install the filter sideways, you can't, obviously, fill it with oil before installation. Install the oil drain plug (32nm) using a new crush washer. The GT has a dry sump tank that must be drained too. Remove the tube from the top of the tank by depressing the ring that holds it on: Then insert an old foam earplug in the end of the tube so that when you snake the tube down for draining, the oil won't come out until you want it to. Here's the bottom of the tube and its connection at the bottom of the dry sump tank: With the tube positioned over the oil collection pan, remove the foam earplug from the tube and let the tank drain. It will take about 20 minutes. Since the engine and the filter drain their oil in front of the center stand and the tube from the dry sump tank drains behind the center stand, I use two oil collection pans: Snake the tube back to the top of the dry sump tank and reinstall. Fill the oil tank with three quarts, then run the engine, then add the other .7 quart. Link to comment
RFW Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Excellent, Rich. Simply excellent! As someone looking to get a new GT, ....Thank you! Link to comment
smiller Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Excellent, Rich. Simply excellent! As someone looking to get a new GT, ....Thank you! Yes, same here, thanks! Now how about some pix of that valve adjust... Link to comment
keithb Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 (edited) I did not realize the new K engine had a horizontally mounted oil filter. I guess it was just too darn easy to mount it underneath like they used to be. $85 for an oil change? OUCH! That is certainly incentive to learn how to do it yourself. Nice job Rich. Thanks for sharing. Edited January 18, 2008 by keithb Link to comment
Calvin (no socks) Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Rich, great pictures.....I don't have a centerstand.... PS. I don't use the small hose to drain the tank. I use a pair of pliers to release the clamp on the bottom of the large hose on the bottom and a piece of cardboard to direct the oil stream away from the pipes and outward to the drain pan... I have multiple oil changes under my belt. The first one I removed all the tupperware... Not any more! Lets adjust the valves next? Link to comment
RichEdwards Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 Calvin, Next time I'm going to take out the strainer in the oil filler and pump out the tank. I'll see how that works. I'm going to use this (Pela 6000 Oil Extractor): Review here: http://www.bikernet.com/products/viewsingle.asp?ID=51 Link to comment
Folkdancer48 Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Rich, We met at the Spring '07 "El Paseo" in Dillsboro NC. I also met Calvin (with his K12S) at the Fall '07 "El Paseo". First, I wish to add my thanks for your taking the time and effort to show us how you have done oil changes on your K12GT. Even someone as unmechanical as I am should be able to do an oil change, thanks to your instructions. Second, with regard to the oil extractor, I understand how you can drain the main tank, but what about the dry sump? Link to comment
Wild Bill Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 I use an oil extractor on my K1200r Sport. it is quick! I start the extractor, swap our the oil filter, drain the sump. Then I double check that I got all the oil out with the extractor. Put the oil in as discribed above. Folkdancer48, unfortunely you still have to get underneath to drain the sump. I really think it is quicker, cleaner and easier than doing the same on my old 1150Rt. Cheers.. Link to comment
RichEdwards Posted January 20, 2008 Author Share Posted January 20, 2008 Second, with regard to the oil extractor, I understand how you can drain the main tank, but what about the dry sump? The tank under the seat would be emptied with the oil extractor (thru the same place that you add oil -- it requires removing the basket-strainer that's in that hole). You still need to drain oil by removing the oil drain plug at the bottom of the engine. It's a two-step job. Link to comment
Folkdancer48 Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 Ok, thanks for the clarification, Rich. Please let us know how the specific extractor you eventually buy works out. Link to comment
Folkdancer48 Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 This is a test. http://Folkdancer48.smugmug.com/photos/245756465-S.jpg Link to comment
Bud Clarke Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 The tank under the seat would be emptied with the oil extractor (thru the same place that you add oil -- it requires removing the basket-strainer that's in that hole). I have tried several times to remove the basket with no success. What's the trick? Link to comment
stubble! Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 Assuming you have a thin enough suction hose, don't remove the basket. Just pop off the sight-tube connector as shown above, and stick your extraction tube in the hole. Link to comment
RichEdwards Posted May 9, 2008 Author Share Posted May 9, 2008 Assuming you have a thin enough suction hose, don't remove the basket. Just pop off the sight-tube connector as shown above, and stick your extraction tube in the hole. True. The hose will fit in that hole so there is no need to remove the basket. Link to comment
stubble! Posted May 9, 2008 Share Posted May 9, 2008 Jimmy at A&S taught me that trick last month! Link to comment
dhanson Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 (edited) I have done a couple of oil changes and I use a 12v sump pump. They run about $25. Run a tube to bottom of tank through hole where the drain tube comes out of, or if you have an adaptor connect to the tube itself. I try to push the pickup tube into the area below where the drain tube connects to the tank so I get most all of the oil. It will take about 2-1/2 or 3 qts before you crank engine and pump oil into the filter and other parts, then add up to a total of about 3-1/2 qts. Try not to over fill! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-SeaSense-12V-DC-Oil-Changer-Vacuum-Drain-Fluid-Pump_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ26451QQihZ009QQitemZ190221702825QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Edited May 13, 2008 by dhanson Link to comment
Earl K Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Rich, As I drive a 2007 K1200S, I just wanted to say, many thanks. Quite informative and the pics really made the job so much easier. You saved me a few bucks. All the best. Earl, in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. Link to comment
SageRider Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Earl, Welcome to the Asylum!!! Link to comment
tallman Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Rich is away from his computer, at the AARP convention. However, as you well know, it is customary to make a sizeable contribution to memebers who provide this type of information. As his business manager I am happy to say "thank you in advance for your donation." Pleae PM me for the correct address and spelling of my, I mean his, name. Link to comment
Gadget Magnet Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Thanks for the pictorial, it's demystified the process! Much appreciated sharing your knowledge. Link to comment
Seamuis Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 (edited) Just had my 6K done and this sounds much more appealing, thanks a million. How often do you change your oil? -Dennis Edited June 29, 2010 by Seamuis Link to comment
RedHot Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Is this method the same as the new GT's? I'm just wondering because I did the 12K a few weeks ago and had to remove the side stand. You don't have to do that? I also did the FD fluid which was sort of messy but there's a great pictorial on how to do both. In July, I'll have to do the 18K and they say that doing the valve adjustment is a REAL PITA and is usaully for nothing! I'll still do it, just because if I don't, my luck will mean that the valves actually did need adjusting. I do NOT like doing maintenance. I wish I was rich. (now that's rich as in wealthy, not rich as in RICH) Link to comment
Firefight911 Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Is this method the same as the new GT's? I'm just wondering because I did the 12K a few weeks ago and had to remove the side stand. You don't have to do that? I also did the FD fluid which was sort of messy but there's a great pictorial on how to do both. In July, I'll have to do the 18K and they say that doing the valve adjustment is a REAL PITA and is usaully for nothing! I'll still do it, just because if I don't, my luck will mean that the valves actually did need adjusting. I do NOT like doing maintenance. I wish I was rich. (now that's rich as in wealthy, not rich as in RICH) Exact same. Link to comment
Blake A. Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Hey - I found this thread when I first got my '07 GT early 2010. Due to reasons beyond my control, like the bike being in the shop at the times oil needed changing, I never had the opportunity to use it. I did last month and it was very handy and went very simply. I even had the same earplugs on hand. Thanks for the help. Link to comment
fluidj Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 refreshing an old thread....because I need it hi folks. Link to comment
tallman Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 refreshing an old thread....because I need it hi folks. Every 3,000 views. Link to comment
ozlaw Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 wow, amazing. thank u very much. can u describe how to change gear oil (k 1200 gt 2006)- if u can- with photoes, please. i thank u in advance. Link to comment
vfrman Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 I just bought a 2013 K1300S, and thanks to this thread, I can perform my own 600 mile service. Thanks! Link to comment
BFEBETS Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 Rich, I know it's been 9 years since this post about changing the oil on a 2007, BMW K1200GT but, I wanted to thank you. I recently bought an 07' and the owner advised me that the only thing it needed was an oil change. Your DETAILED instructions were very helpful. With the exception of getting the K&N replacement filter in there, everything went great. Thanks again, BFEBETS Link to comment
tallman Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 I'll tell him. He has his GSA, and a 650 Versys, but sometimes doesn't check in for a while. Glad it helped. Link to comment
digcolnagos Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 This tutorial was immensely helpful--best thing, by far, on the internet--but I need more help. How does one fill the oil reservoir? This sounds like a silly question, I know, but I'm totally stuck. I've drained the oil, both from the pan and the sump, as per Rich's instructions--and thanks again. I've got the new filter in and also the drain plug (took four days to get the proper crush washer via eBay/Amazon, but oh well--the dealership that did the job for $150 last year didn't bother using a washer, instead opting to reef the plug, as well as the filter, tight beyond any reason). There is a cap labeled "Oil" under the seat--it's seen on the seventh photo down from Rich's original post--but I cannot get it off. The part labeled "Oil" will rotate, but there must be some secret society trick to actually removing it (I'm guessing there's a dipstick there someplace) so that I can fill my bike with oil and enjoy the new riding season. This is killing me--never imagined an oil change would be so fraught with adventure. In theory,as per Rich's tutorial, it should be easier than it was on my 1996 Honda ST1100, But it is proving anything but. Tell me how to get oil into my bike and I'll be your best friend forever, promise. And sorry for being so stupid. Just not mechanically minded. Link to comment
digcolnagos Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 And the owner's manual is no help. The picture in the manual that came with the bike doesn't look like my bike--the oil reservoir cap on my bike looks like the picture that Rich took. Thanks again for any help. Link to comment
Dennis Andress Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 (edited) Unscrew the cap labeled "Oil". It was often tight enough to require pliers to break loose, but 1/2 a turn should get it free. There is a largish O ring under the cap. And, yes, there is a dipstick on the cap. If the cap won't come off then there is something amiss in the oil tank. As a workaround you could (slowly) pour oil in through the sight tube hole Edited May 4, 2018 by Dennis Andress 1 Link to comment
digcolnagos Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 The top part labeled "oil" will spin and even lift up a bit, as if spring loaded (I'm assuming this is the part with a dipstick), but it is not threaded, so I am assuming you mean unscrew the bottom part that has flanges. And sorry to be such an idiot. I simply cannot believe that an oil filler cap would be screwed on so snug. The last two oil changes were done by a dealership, and so the over-tightening of the filter and the drain plug and the filler cap wasn't a factory or a shade tree mechanic deal. Thanks again for your help. Appreciate it. Link to comment
digcolnagos Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 SUCCESS!!! Gave it one more "oh, well" giant reef before resorting to pliers, and off it came. I owe you one. Thanks again. Link to comment
Arnoaldi Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 (edited) Hi everyone. I am new to this forum, and very much new to attempting an oil change on my '08 K1200GT --- but I moved to a place where the closest dealer is a couple of hundred miles away and I thought I'd give it a try. RIch's post was a godsend--thank you! And yet, I must confess that I got stuck on what should be seemingly be an easy step: removing the tube from the dry sump tank. The instructions say that I should succeed by simply depressing the ring that holds it on--but I have been miserably failing -- I assume it is because I am not doing the correct "depressing". I tried pushing rather forcefully on the flat surface at the top of the plug (the one that Rich holds between his two fingers) but to no avail; I also tired pushing down on the ring at the end of the plug--same depressing result. There must be something really easy that I fail to understand and do---could someone please set me straight? Thank you very much in advance! --- SOLVED --- It was indeed easy... :-) Sorry to bother! Edited August 30, 2019 by Arnoaldi Link to comment
Matt Cero Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 Hi gents and a few ladies maybe. I have a '09 K1300GT and am having a problem removing the filter. I unscrewed it, with a few dents, with the spanning wrench. But fully unscrewed and off the mount, there is not enough room to get it down from the chassis as it is "trapped" up in there. Any ideas? I could make several dents in the top to provide clearance but if anyone has an idea, that would be fantastic. Thank you. MC Link to comment
Rinkydink Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 Apropos of nothing...I use aluminum foil and wrap my pipe to keep oil off of it. If you have no centerstand just tie each end of your handlebars off to your garage door rails or carport posts etc. Link to comment
KBMWGT Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 20 hours ago, Matt Cero said: Hi gents and a few ladies maybe. I have a '09 K1300GT and am having a problem removing the filter. I unscrewed it, with a few dents, with the spanning wrench. But fully unscrewed and off the mount, there is not enough room to get it down from the chassis as it is "trapped" up in there. Any ideas? I could make several dents in the top to provide clearance but if anyone has an idea, that would be fantastic. Thank you. MC You need to loosen the bottom of the lower fairing. There is a bolt to the right of the filter. Remove that and thenyou can pull the fairing partially away for room to remove filter. Link to comment
Matt Cero Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 I did that already to get the filter wrench up in there to unscrew it. It is trapped up higher please know. Link to comment
KBMWGT Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Wish I could help. Take a pic and lets see what's going on. Link to comment
KBMWGT Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 When the filter is off it barely has clearance to move straight down. More like wiggle it down slow. Link to comment
Dennis Andress Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 On 3/31/2020 at 7:54 AM, Matt Cero said: I did that already to get the filter wrench up in there to unscrew it. It is trapped up higher please know. The K13S required the shifter linkage to be removed so the filter would clear. BMW has a cross match for a shorter filter that is easier to get out. Dennis Link to comment
Matt Cero Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Well I did not remove the shift linkage but loosened the shift lever pivot bolt by 3 or 4 turns and the vacated it enough to slip the filter past. Thank you. I'm running Mobil 100% synthetic 15W 50 on the K13 as well as my R1200GSA and they're purring like kittens on it. MC Link to comment
Dennis Andress Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 The K13S clutch would chatter and screech if I tried to do a fast take off from a stop. There was a lot of talk about this on i-bnw.com (defunct, gone). The cause was eventually thought to be poor oiling to the inside two clutch plates. There were pictures of these plates with their slots full of crud. I found that Motul 4T 7100 helped a lot. 1 Link to comment
Matt Cero Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Mine chatters starting uphill. Link to comment
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