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Clutch Adjustment R1100RT


BMUU

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The free play at the clutch lever on my 2000 RT is only about 2 – 3 mm. Even though I’ve not experienced any problems, I’m concerned that this is getting a bit tight. I understand the factory recommended adjustment procedure, but I’d like to defer that until I have the side panels off and the rear wheel removed as part of some other routine maintenance. In the mean time, I don’t understand why I can’t just use the barrel adjuster at the handlebar to increase the free play. On other bikes I’ve owned, this is the only adjustment available and I don’t see why it shouldn’t work on the RT.

 

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I have just done the adjustment at the clutch end. I only needed to remove the LH footrest plate but not the rear wheel. You need a shortened 13mm tube spanner to tighten the locknut while you hold the adjustment bolt with a 10mm socket.

 

2-3mm at your handle bar is risking clutch slip and extra wear. Its a long way from the spec of 10mm.

 

regards,

 

Ian

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Man, if it's cable operated like a 96, once you get the adjustment at the clutch end set, strap the clutch lever back and that will lock the bolt and you can tighten the locknut without trying to hold the bolt.

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Or do it as per manual says.

 

The handlebar adjustment is for doing it quick and the gearbox one is for the bigger range of slack.

 

Just like on old radios, you have tunning and fine tunning : )

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The free play at the clutch lever on my 2000 RT is only about 2 – 3 mm. Even though I’ve not experienced any problems, I’m concerned that this is getting a bit tight.

 

IMHO, slack is something you either have or don't have. Having more than enough is just, well, extra looseness. What is important is to have at least some (more than zero) slack under ALL conditions of front wheel position, RPM and temperature. I actually prefer to set my bikes up with about 2mm of freeplay at the lever.

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I set both ends to factory specs., then adjust the clutch lever free play to "feel" for my hand size and riding style.

 

You can access the rear adjuster bolt without removing anything by using a deep socket and a palm ratchet. I had to cut the socket down a little to fit. This approach may not work with large hands.

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BMW increased the free play spec as there were a number of early clutch failures. Speculation on why was that as parts get hot and expand, your freeplay can temporarily go away. 2-3mm is walking the edge of the cliff. I'd adjust it per the correct procedure. And as John mentioned above, if you strap down the clutch handle while tightening the locknut, it's a simple procedure.

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BMW increased the free play spec as there were a number of early clutch failures. Speculation on why was that as parts get hot and expand, your freeplay can temporarily go away. 2-3mm is walking the edge of the cliff. I'd adjust it per the correct procedure. And as John mentioned above, if you strap down the clutch handle while tightening the locknut, it's a simple procedure.
Interesting point and I agree. What caused me to examine the amount of free play in the first place was a recent weekend tour that included long stretches of uninterrupted high-speed riding. When I would come to a town where I had to slow down and shift to a lower gear, it seemed like the point where the clutch engaged was a bit further out. In other words, it seemed like the amount of free play had decreased. I assume this is normal and due to heat buildup in the clutch assembly. My concern is that during these times the amount of slack may go to zero.
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"...Having more than enough is just, well, extra looseness..."

Since BMW thought so much about the amount of 'slack' (after seeing early clutch failures) to modify their specs, I would say:

"It's your bike and your wallet, but if you waste the clutch because there isn't enough slack, don't blame the BMW engineers or come around crying about early clutch failure. After all, it's only gonna cost you somewhere between $200 and $800 to replace the clutch."

BMW increased the slack to 7 mm (or whatever the number currently is), and that is what you should be using. Adjusting the clutch to the correct specs shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes (bike on center stand, loosen lock nut on adjuster on back of transmission, loosen adjusting bolt, loosen lock nut at handlebar, set proper amount of threads showin (12 mm), adjust bolt on back of transmission to give 5-7 mm slack at handle bar, have helper hold clutch in, and tighten lock nut on transmission. If you don't have a helper to hold the clutch lever, you could potentially add 3 minutes of struggle with box wrench and open end wrench.

It's your money. My clutch, which was adjusted according to specs, was replaced after 140,000 miles when I had to have the trannie worked on, not because it was worn out - it could have easily gone another x-thousand miles (impossible to actually know).

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"It's your bike and your wallet, but if you waste the clutch because there isn't enough slack, don't blame the BMW engineers...

 

I agree completely. On the other hand ....

 

I really would like to understand how a fully seated clutch disk could possibly know how much cable extra slack there is at the handlebar lever. Could someone please explain it (without just saying "BMW said so").

 

My own suspicion is that there were some early clutch failures. BMW could not find a systemic cause so the engineers at BMW assummed their customers were just idiots who didn't know a cable actuated clutch needs *some* free play at all times to fully engage. They probably did a worst case evaluation of clutch wear assuming no user adjustment at all in, say 36,000 miles or something, and came up with a set to of 7mm before the available slack was "used up".

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  • 7 years later...

Clutch Adjustment - R1100RT yr 2000

 

1. the BMW repair manual is misleading. You do not need a special tool.

 

2. Go in on the LEFT side (not the right as illustrated in the BMW repair manual).

 

3. Remove left fairing.

 

4. Remove left foot-peg plate and release the gear-shifter.

 

5. Look deep into in the cavity. you will see the end of the clutch release lever adjustment - the 13mm locking nut around the 10mm adjustment bolt. It is just forward of the rear shock absorber and spring.

 

6. Go up top and adjust the handle-bar-clutch-lever such that the distance between the knurled locking ring-nut (inner end) is separated from the knurled adjustment ring-bolt (outer end) by 12mm.

 

6. Now, go back down and reach into the cavity with a 13mm deep socket and small ratchet and slacken off the 13mm locking nut.

 

7. Now use a 10mm deep (long) socket to adjust the 10mm adjustment bolt (usually out, unscrew) until you achieve a 7mm gap between the base of the handlebar-clutch-lever and the clutch lever frame-unit.

 

8. Tighten, by hand, the 13mm locking nut on the 10 mm adjustment bolt on the clutch release lever. Check for the the 7mm gap at the handlebar. If good, lock down the 13mm locking nut. If not good, re-adjust and do it again until you get it right.

 

9. Replace the foot-peg plate and gear-shifter and test the handle-bar clutch lever and clutch release with the rear-wheel off the ground.

 

Have fun.

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Clutch Adjustment - R1100RT yr 2000

 

............

 

8. Tighten, by hand, the 13mm locking nut on the 10 mm adjustment bolt on the clutch release lever. Check for the the 7mm gap at the handlebar. If good, lock down the 13mm locking nut. If not good, re-adjust and do it again until you get it right.

 

9. Replace the foot-peg plate and gear-shifter and test the handle-bar clutch lever and clutch release with the rear-wheel off the ground.

 

Have fun.

 

Regarding your step 8, to tighten the lock nut. Once you have the 7 mm free play at the clutch lever hand grip, pull in the clutch lever so that the cable is taut, then take a piece of string or rubber bands and tie down the clutch lever. With the clutch cable taut, the adjuster will not move at the transmission and you should be able to tighten the lock nut without altering the setting. Once the lock nut is tight, remove the string or rubber bands on the clutch lever and the measurements should remain as previously set.

 

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