firefighter217 Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 i didn't get a tool kit with mine and I'm a little confused on how to remove it to change out a front tire. please help... any links or anything is appreciated Link to comment
Twisties Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 You need: Torx bit set, up to t-45 Torque wrench 22mm hex tool and a way to drive it. Remove the front "beak." The painted plastic over the front of the wheel. t-27 IIRC. Remove the two brake calipers from the front forks. t-45 iirc. Watch the speed sensor cable on the left. You may need to unhook it. Wiggle them off the rotors, so they hang freely. Loosen the pinch bolt on the right front fork. t-45 iirc With the bike on the center stand, jack the front wheel up, prop it up, or weight the rear to get it up. Just be sure whatever you do is secure and stable. I use a floor jack and a wood block under the engine, until the rear wheel touches the ground. Remove the axle with the 22mm hex tool. Work the wheel out. To reinstall, reverse the procedure. Torque specs for an '07 RT are here. Be sure to get the speed sensor cable rerouted correctly and reattached. Link to comment
johnlt Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 If you don't have the right "22mm hex tool", you can use a standard spark plug socket with the hex end. Put it on an extension backwards (extension goes into the socket where the spark plug goes). The outside hex end of the socket is about the right size. Not a perfect fit but close enough. (not my idea but I forgot who originally posted this approach) Link to comment
Redbrick Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 (edited) If you're spark plug socket hex end won't fit, mine are too big, go to your local hardware, Lowe's, Home Depot,etc., and get a "shower wrench" for about $2...It's a double-ended, pressed steel hex socket thingy (21/32 and 27/32)....The 21/32 socket end on mine measures 22mm OUTSIDE and works perfectly...Slips right in the axle, put a screwdriver in the hole on the socket and lossen the nut.....Remembered that I got mine at Harbor Freight... Here's another thread that might help.. http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=353950&Searchpage=9&Main=32948&Words=axle&Search=true#Post353950 Edited October 1, 2010 by Redbrick Link to comment
David13 Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 Marc Parnes tool. http://www.marcparnes.com/BMW_Axle_Tool.htm I got another one, I don't know from where. It also fits the Hayabusa, and probably other bikes, as well. dc Link to comment
Twisties Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 Pump the brake handle after the calipers are re-attached, and before riding. Link to comment
Rob L Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 REMOVE the speed sensor! I know that you can get the wheel out without removing it, but you will likely damage the sensor when the wheel is replaced! It take 15 seconds to remove the screw. The sensor costs $90+! Yeah....I bought one Link to comment
CoarsegoldKid Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Pump the brake handle after the calipers are re-attached, and before riding. After the caliper(s) are reinstalled turn on the ignition so the servo is operable, then squeeze the brake lever and rear foot pedal. You will thank us later. Link to comment
longjohn Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Have a zip tie or bungy cord handy to get the calipers up and out of the way. Link to comment
hopz Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Some people tape the wheel behind the calipers to prevent paint damage. A shop rag held behind the caliper works too. Link to comment
Timothy Dearborn Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 Note: The size of pinch bolt (at least on my '06) is T-40. Also, as noted in other comments, the 21/32 "shower valve socket" from Menard's worked great to remove the front axle. I put a 26mm socket over the other 27/32 end and attached a socket wrench to that to drive it. Link to comment
Cappo Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 Hey guys, I'm not a regular poster here (sorry! ) but this topic came up on a search and I just wanted to check a couple of things with you. Obviously, me being a male and all that, I launched into the front wheel removal without RTFMing in order to get a new front tyre fitted. I have one issue and one question. Issue: I removed the front calipers, and just wiggled them slightly to move the pads/get enough clearance. After replacing, I pumped the brake lever, first with the ignition off, then with the engine running, but it still feels kinda spongey. If I squeeze hard enough, I can get the lever back to the bar. What have I done wrong here? Question: re the advice further back up the thread about the speed sensor. As mentioned, I didn't RTFM first, so I ploughed in and removed/replaced the wheel. I didn't encounter any resistance anywhere and I didn't hear any breaking noises, but if I have damaged the sensor, how can I tell? No speedo? No cruise? I haven't ridden the bike yet, only finished a short time ago. Thanks in advance! Link to comment
lkchris Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 How to remove front wheel is covered in owners manual. Link to comment
xoomerite Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 The brakes don't come on stream until you have ridden the bike a few feet, so that the ABS can run its check. It is not necessary to remove the ABS sensor on the front wheel to remove the wheel. At least not on the 2005 - 2009 versions. Chris Link to comment
dirtrider Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Hey guys, I'm not a regular poster here (sorry! ) but this topic came up on a search and I just wanted to check a couple of things with you. Obviously, me being a male and all that, I launched into the front wheel removal without RTFMing in order to get a new front tyre fitted. I have one issue and one question. Issue: I removed the front calipers, and just wiggled them slightly to move the pads/get enough clearance. After replacing, I pumped the brake lever, first with the ignition off, then with the engine running, but it still feels kinda spongey. If I squeeze hard enough, I can get the lever back to the bar. What have I done wrong here? Question: re the advice further back up the thread about the speed sensor. As mentioned, I didn't RTFM first, so I ploughed in and removed/replaced the wheel. I didn't encounter any resistance anywhere and I didn't hear any breaking noises, but if I have damaged the sensor, how can I tell? No speedo? No cruise? I haven't ridden the bike yet, only finished a short time ago. Morning Cappo First off-- what are you working on? Your profile shows an R1100RT but you are posting in a Hexhead thread. Tell us what model & what year you are working on. Link to comment
Cappo Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Ah yes, sorry for the confusion! I used to run an R1100RT, I now have a lovely fully-loaded 2012 R1200RT SE The wheel removal was simply for a tyre replacement. I tied the lever back to the bar overnight and it seems to have come back firm, although I haven't ridden the bike yet - it's been a combination of foggy, cold and damp here in the UK, and whilst I do ride to work every day, rain or shine, I haven't quite found the time or enthusiasm this festive week to get togged up and go out! Link to comment
Thunderhoof Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Replacement for 22 mm axle removal tool: Go a good hardware store that has rod connector nuts. Find the size that has a measurement across the flats of 7/8 ins. By one for a buck. Place in a 22mm or 7/8 in socket. Works good. Link to comment
speedybee Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 This will be my first time removing the front wheel on my 2009 RT. I understand that a 22mm hex is needed but what is it actually used for? I see where it goes on the right side of the axle. Is the axle threaded and needs to be spun to remove? Does it need to be torqued when replacing the axle? I couldn't find a YouTube for reference. Any help will be appreciated. Link to comment
temesvar Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 This is for 2008RT Yours should be much the same idea. https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?34977-HEXHEAD-Tech-R1200XX-Wheel-Assembly-R-amp-R-All-Years Link to comment
speedybee Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Perfect..thank you Temesvar! Link to comment
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