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R1150RT Fuel Tank Hose Repair and Pump/Filter Service


roger 04 rt

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roger 04 rt

Set out on a 2 hr ride this morning. Got 2 gal. gas at a local mobil station filled tank. 35 min from home on highway going 75. Notice power flagging when I try to accelerate up hill. Bike engine quits in left lane. Luckily get safely to exit. Parked now on exit road. Bike will start but seems like fuel system blocked. So noisy here I can't listen for fuel pump. Waiting 2 hrs. for tow. Other than oil change a few riding hrs ago, nothing done to bike lately.

 

EDIT: Changed Title to draw help

 

2nd EDIT: Roger changed the title to make it easier for folks in the future

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Well I think the first step is the GS911 for a code read to see what might show, if anything.

It may be a fuel pump controller. That would set a code. If no code, then you have another fuel or spark issue, perhaps.

dc

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Could it be the fuel you bought?

I'm looking through the threads for information on that.....

Hope it's not too hot there by the side of the road

 

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Did you try opening the gas tank? The vent or charcoal cannister might be plugged up. It causes a suction in the tank and the bike will shut off like it has run out of gas. Usually, if you open the tank right after you get it stopped, you will get a "whoosh" sound of air rushing in.

 

After you release the vacuum in the tank, it will usually start and run normally until the fuel pump sucks enough volume from the tank for it to happen again.

 

not saying thats your problem, but its an easy check.

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roger 04 rt

Hi Kathy. That's what I'm thinking at the moment. Can hear pump coming on. Luckily in shade. Unluckily tools in wife's car at destination 100 miles away. Last time I ship tools ahead like that.

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roger 04 rt
Did you try opening the gas tank? The vent or charcoal cannister might be plugged up. It causes a suction in the tank and the bike will shut off like it has run out of gas. Usually, if you open the tank right after you get it stopped, you will get a "whoosh" sound of air rushing in.

 

After you release the vacuum in the tank, it will usually start and run normally until the fuel pump sucks enough volume from the tank for it to happen again.

 

not saying thats your problem, but its an easy check.

 

Tried that no woosh. Going to disconnect vacuum line anyway

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Found this FWIW:

 

Hiya ....Just thought I would share my recent fuel pump problem, Two days before the long awaited ride to Dover for Friday 13th my 2008 RT started losing power and then quitting. After a few starts it seemed to clear. Did that a number of times. Felt like a fuel problem like water, or maybe a filter issue so I added the meth. and hoped for a fix. No luck. The next day same thing, sure felt like bad fuel as it would always start but not run for long. I was hoping it was not the fuel pump. Alas, after the last stall it would not start and on the trailer it went to the dealer the next day. He fixed it the same day (Friday 13th) but it was too late to make it to the meet. Apparently the circuit board on top of the fuel pump was corroded and failed. It was replaced under warranty. I did learn that my bike has no fuel filter except a screen on the pump and faulty pumps sure feel like water in the fuel until they quit!

 

The device that died is called a fuel pressure controller. It quit becasue the part itself is a lousy design (new part number is in a powder coated case that doesn't corrode but that is only a partial fix) and its installation in a well at the top of the tank that collects water is even more stupid. Faiures of this thing are common. The UK GS guys count them on their website and will probably report over 150 this year alone for only GS models, not counting the RT and other model failures.

 

Anyone with an RT or GS or other hexhead/camhead should be prepared to bypass this thing when it dies, so it doesn't leave you stranded somewhere. See Burns Moto for commercially available jumpers- it takes about 5 min to bypass it after removing 1 piece of tupperware.

 

Preventive measures may help- you can do what the factory should have but was too lazy to do

1) Fill blue connector at top of fuel pump with dielectric grease

2) Seal fuel pressure controller well with RTV or similar sealoant

 

and

3) When doing routnie service, inspect area of fpc for watrer accumulaion and dry it out

 

There are multiple failure modes for the fpc but the most common is that the controller itself gets water inside despite what appears to be a sealed metal housing. The silicon over the board is not a complete seal - water can penetrate to the board and corrode it- you can easily peel the silicon off and see this for yourself on a dead one.

 

Also, the blue connector at the top of the fuel pump corrodes when water accumulates in the well- the pump draws about 7A normally and that much current is pretty good at damaging wet stuff. BTW, re jumpers- you can run the fuel pump from a bike outlet if you have a new RT where the ZFE handles 110A but not older ones or the GS. The best jumper is the type that simply connects from the 12V to the fpc to the top of the fuel pump- Buns sells one that uses posi taps but you can easiyl see how to make your own (by cutting the connector off a dead fpc if you have to)

Edited by Kathy R
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Sounds like the old split / disconnected fuel line in the gas tank trick. Been there.

 

Forgot about that, but that could certainly be it. I remember reading about that short U shaped fuel line in the tank getting a split in it, and quite a few hoses just popping off.

 

Link to a recent occurance

link

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roger 04 rt
Sounds like the old split / disconnected fuel line in the gas tank trick. Been there.

 

Could be.

 

 

KathyR. Thanks. Good roadside reading

Edited by roger 04 rt
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Unfortunately, the corroded/failed fuel pump controller issue doesn't apply to an '04 RT -- totally different attangement than the hex/camhead RTs. The oilhead RT also has a fuel filter.

 

Roger, ever replace the fuel filter? It is not uncommon for the hose to pop off inside the tank. Depending on how full the tank is, you *may* be able to hear the fuel escaping the line inside the tank with your ear at the open filler.

 

A considerably riskier approach to confirmation (and this would be for a real I'm-stuck-but-need-to-know-the-answer situation) would be to disconnect the external fuel quick-disconnect in the supply line, insert a screwdriver or rod to lift the self-sealing valve off its seat, and momentarily run the fuel pump to see whether you get a trickle or the full 50 psi spray -- obviously taking all precautions to protect eyes, skin, etc.

 

 

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Sounds like split line/popped off in tank/fuel filter.

Are you sure you are hearing the fuel pump and not the ABS servos?

No matter what, sounds like a garage job. Not something I would would want to do at the side of the road. Not if you have a tow vehicle already coming.

Then when you get home, you can pull one injector at a time and check for fuel spray on key-on.

Edited by Alfred02
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Afternoon Roger

 

Man sorry to hear of your issue.

 

Hopefully you have it towed off the road & to a place you can work by now. (I see your post was at 12:04 pm)

 

In any case, if you haven't identified the problem by now it does sound a bit like fuel as it just didn't abruptly quit.

 

Might be that U shaped fuel pressure hose in the thank with a pin hole (or simply blown off a fitting). Kind of common of older 1100/1150 bikes.

 

Or might be a bad fuel with water in it from the last fill up (lots of that since all those storms went through). If you can find the number maybe try calling the gas station you filed up at & ask for the manager then ask him personally about a possible water issue. If that is an issue he should have plenty of stalled vehicles by now so probably won't deny it.

 

I doubt it is a plugged tank vent (or evap can) as that fuel pump can make over 60 psi & is "inside" the tank so unlike external fuel pumps or gravity systems can easily overpower a plugged tank vent issue (usually just sucks the plastic tank sides in & keeps going).

 

What is the RID doing? (might indicate a bad side stand switch). In neutral & key on work the side stand & see what changes as it opens & closes the switch.

 

Otherwise you need to check for spark & fuel pressure & delivery as well as all fuses. If no verified fuel pump then check the side stand switch & fuel pump relay (swap with another relay).

 

You might also make sure your TPS didn't become disconnected & fuse 5 has continuity.

 

Otherwise give us something more to go on & we can help you out from afar if needed.

 

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roger 04 rt

On tow vehicle now headed home.

 

RID good bike starts. Turn throttle. Dies. Best guess is still fuel line. I managed to drive it a mile off the highway. But the bike felt strangled. Then as I said will start but not run.

 

Will open it up tomorrow.

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Mark N

No fuel controller! I'm just itching for someone else to have that, instead of just me.

But then, doesn't that model have the notorious HES?

dc

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Afternoon David

 

No electronic fuel pump controller on the BMW 1100/1150. Those models are old school & use a simple fuel pump relay & run the pump full speed all the time.

 

They do have an HES but very few HES failures on the later 1150's.

 

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KathyR. Thanks. Good roadside reading

 

:wave: You are very welcome. BTDT and thought I'd try to keep you occupied until the tow arrived. :grin:

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best guess plugged fuel filter. Idles, but blip the throttle and it takes a dump.

 

Power loss was at acceleration first, then got worse until the bike quit.

 

Perfect symptoms. If a line came off it would not idle.

 

Just playing guessing game here. Internet repair :grin:

 

David

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best guess plugged fuel filter. Idles, but blip the throttle and it takes a dump.

 

Power loss was at acceleration first, then got worse until the bike quit.

 

Perfect symptoms. If a line came off it would not idle.

 

Just playing guessing game here. Internet repair :grin:

 

David

 

I concur with that assumption too!

 

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Just playing guessing game here. Internet repair :grin:

 

David

 

Look on the bright side........the last time I was sitting on the side of the road, I knew exactly what had left me sit there (transmission input splines). By the time I had been towed to a hotel, I had 3-4 PM's wanting to know if I was parting it out and how much I wanted for certain parts. I'd take a fuel delivery issue any day over a mechanical issue :grin:

 

Hope you get it all squared away cheaply. :thumbsup:

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roger 04 rt

Thanks everyone for the suggestions so far. It was a 2 1/2 hour wait and a hundred mile flat-bed ride but the bike's in the garage with tools. It turns over and starts right away but dies if I touch the throttle. the fuel pump is coming on.

 

While waiting I checked the venting and all is well.

 

Tomorrow afternoon the fairings will come off and I'll start working my way up the fuel path. My guess now is that I'll probably be emptying and pulling the tank.

 

We'll see ...

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SteveHebert

I bought my RT from a member here that had similiar symptoms. It was the u shaped hose in the tank, split wide open. Starting was no issue. It manifested quickly when throttle was applied. He could ride it though at a very low throttle setting.

 

On my 03 GS, my electrical connection to my TPS dislogged and the bike would die immediately when I tried accelerating from a stop. Once I found that (while in the woods) life was great. Just something else to check. Kinda strange for that to happen on the RT though with all the tupperware in place.

 

Good luck

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roger 04 rt
I bought my RT from a member here that had similiar symptoms. It was the u shaped hose in the tank, split wide open. Starting was no issue. It manifested quickly when throttle was applied. He could ride it though at a very low throttle setting.

 

On my 03 GS, my electrical connection to my TPS dislogged and the bike would die immediately when I tried accelerating from a stop. Once I found that (while in the woods) life was great. Just something else to check. Kinda strange for that to happen on the RT though with all the tupperware in place.

 

Good luck

 

Unless a QD has mysteriously opened or the fuel pump relay gone on the blink I'm betting the problem is in the tank.

 

Can I loop a piece of fuel line or will I need the BMW parts?

 

If there's been water in the tank, must the filter be replaced?

 

Can I reuse a 1 year-old gasket?

Edited by roger 04 rt
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"Can I loop a piece of fuel line or will I need the BMW parts?"

--If it turns out to be the short U shaped hose, I would replace it with an OEM part. Its a 180 degree bend that is in a very tight configuration. I would be afraid of a standard hose getting a kink in it

 

"If there's been water in the tank, must the filter be replaced?"

--Its good practice, but I wouldn't say it MUST be done. I mean if it has supstantial amounts of water in the tank, then it might be worth it. Considering your symtoms, I don't believe its water or bad gas. Have you ever replaced the fuel filter before? If not, it might just be a good time to do it.

 

"Can I reuse a 1 year-old gasket?"

--I'm assuming you are refering to the large O-ring gasket for the fuel pump assembly? If so, yes it can be reused. Just lay it out and allow it to dry. When you first pull it out it will be too large to reuse. Once it dires out completely, it will shrink back down to its proper size.

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Morning Roger

 

Unless a QD has mysteriously opened or the fuel pump relay gone on the blink I'm betting the problem is in the tank.-----

 

If it will still start then disconnect the RETURN hose, then depress the inner valve in the engine side of the return hose disconnect & see if any return fuel flow. If little or none then suspect a split line or enough crap in the fuel tank to plug off the intake sock or filter.

 

Can I loop a piece of fuel line or will I need the BMW parts?-----

 

For a test "sure". For a permanent repair not suggested. Keep in mind that not only must that hose in the tank be pressure rated but also needs to be FUEL SUBMERSION rated (that is special hose that is fuel protected both on the inside & outside). If you don't use the special fuel hose then you will probably have a failure at some time in the future & another walk home. You don't specifically need the BMW U shaped fuel hose so you might find something at the auto parts store that is submerged rated that you can cut to fit. Even straight lengths of submersion rated fuel hose is very expensive. You should also use the correct fuel line clamps. I have seen a few "walk home" failures due to the line in the tank blowing off due to using those standard worm-screw type clamps. (use the correct FI type clamps if at all possible)

 

If there's been water in the tank, must the filter be replaced?----

 

It should be replaced if possible. You might find the intake sock on the fuel pump starting to deteriorate also. For some reason those seem to crumble on the older bikes.

 

Can I reuse a 1 year-old gasket?----

 

Yes, as Keith mentioned dry it out to shrink it back to usable size. In fact as SOON as your remove it quickly get it out in the sun to dry out.

 

 

 

I know you want to quickly find the problem but try not to get too far ahead of yourself here. Get your GS-911 on it to see if all the sensors are working & anything else that stands out before removing the plastic. Make sure your LC-1 isn't the issue (like moisture in the circuits). Your worst nightmare is to have it start working again before you find the root of your issue. If it is fuel related then you will probably find it in the tank but if something like a TPS or LC-1 connection then you want to find it before you disturb anything by removing plastic or moving wires.

 

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Morning Again Roger

 

Just had another thought here-- IF you find water in the fuel tank then look closely at the water drain hose that runs from the tank filler cap ring through the tank. Those can come loose or the metal parts can rust through allowing water from the drain to enter the tank.

 

If you washed the bike just before leaving on your ride this could be a water entry point.

 

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roger 04 rt

Good morning DR,

 

Thanks for the caution to proceed systematically. As you suggested I will slow down (haven't started yet) and see what the GS-911 has to say.

 

On the side of the road I was able to pull the vacuum line of the purge-solenoid and check those lines out and now know that they are clear--drawing good vacuum but even capped won't start. No sign of fuel in the canister either.

 

The LC-1 has been checked out too. On the side of the road I let the motor cool, reset the motronic to get rid of any funny adaptations that might have developed. Cold start ignores the O2 (and the LC-1 is fully waterproof, very well done). Reset motronic and cold start--same problem.

 

A guy stopped and loaned me a screwdriver. Air intake and filter look good.

 

Got a flashlight and studied, as well as I could the fuel, vent and electrical connections. Tie wrap has worked under a QD but doesn't look like the problem.

 

All fuses look good.

 

So 911 is up next.

 

RB

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roger 04 rt
Morning Again Roger

 

Just had another thought here-- IF you find water in the fuel tank then look closely at the water drain hose that runs from the tank filler cap ring through the tank. Those can come loose or the metal parts can rust through allowing water from the drain to enter the tank.

 

If you washed the bike just before leaving on your ride this could be a water entry point.

 

Good thought too but bike hasn't been wash in a while nor seen rain in a few weeks. Only thing done lately, change oil, pull and inspect one spark plug. Oil level good. I don't think one plug/coil would cause these symptoms.

 

Back to the LC-1. It is very robust and water tight to a high standard. My wiring junction box sits on the fuse box, is pretty well sealed and even if water got in is only wiring that's been soldered and shrink tubed. All in all a very solid install, surely more robust than a PC or Techlusion.

 

I will also look at the TPS connector. I don't really want to drain the tank if I don't have to.

 

But speaking of that, what's the easiest system to drain it?

Edited by roger 04 rt
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Yes, as Keith mentioned dry it out to shrink it back to usable size. In fact as SOON as your remove it quickly get it out in the sun to dry out.

 

If your O ring doesn't shrink completely (mine didn't) I found a replacement (number 348) at a hydraulic repair business.

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Hi, DR -- thanks for responding on the oilhead/hexhead controller question.

 

I doubt it is a plugged tank vent (or evap can) as that fuel pump can make over 60 psi & is "inside" the tank so unlike external fuel pumps or gravity systems can easily overpower a plugged tank vent issue (usually just sucks the plastic tank sides in & keeps going).

For info, while I don't have personal experience with an RT stalling due to a blocked vent, I know of several K12LT's in which the vacuum built up, even after collapsing the plastic tank inward, to the point that the fuel pump couldn't overcome the vacuum, with the then-falling fuel rail pressure leading to stumbling and ultimately, stalling. Same ~50 psi pump as the RT, IIRC.

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terryofperry

Different bike but 2004 Montauk © fuel line inside tank came off. It was not split so I put it back on with better clamps and all was well. Troubleshot everything but that, hit the web and found a few others with that as the issue, removed tank, removed pump assembly and sure enough that was it.

 

Good luck

 

Terry

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SteveHebert

The experts answered these questions already with much more technical insight than I can provide.

 

Hope all goes well and it is a simple fix.

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Here's what you'll be looking at. There are two small lengths of fuel line that should be renewed on a regular basis, as well as the U shaped hose. ($35 for the 2 inch piece, ouch). Now is a good time to replace the fuel filter as well as the O ring. Some times they shrink, sometimes they don't. In this example the fuel line at the screwdriver has a split in it.

 

 

This fuel line might work

 

fuelline.jpg

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roger 04 rt

Thanks to everyone for the continuing support. I got a chance to hitchup the 911, no error codes. Bike continues to start easily for several rotations. I've looked over everything externally and there're no problems.

 

I'm tempted to check fuel pressure before disassembling but then will drain the tank and see what's what.

 

Thanks Edgar for the photo. Given that last year when the company that sold me the bike changed the filter, and that they loosened and swapped the vent lines inside the tank. I'm betting they didn't change those little hoses or the screen. So I guess I'll get it apart this weekend and order parts on Monday.

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roger 04 rt

Here's where I am, help!

 

1) I opened the high pressure QD, pointed it into a fuel container, pulled back on the valve and got a very heavy stream of fuel flow. I poured that into a glass jar and found a tablespoon of dark "stuff" and a quart of cloudy fuel. The problem is I didn't clean the fuel container first so I don't know if this was in the fuel system or the container--dumb.

 

2) Pumped a couple more quarts of fuel into glass jars and it seems fine. To my judgement, a very strong flow.

 

3) Pulled the right hand injector and pumped a couple quarts of fuel into the jar.

 

4) Reattached the injector, I can hear and feel the solenoid clicking in the injector. No Fuel. Cleaned the injector with some WD 40. No carb cleaner here yet. Put the injector on and got a bit of pulsed spray. Not as much as I would expect.

 

5) Lather-rinse-repeat on the left side. Same symptoms.

 

So, either the system won't pump enough pressure, even though there is volume, or the injectors are clogged.

 

Suggestions on how to proceed would be appreciated.

 

Should I soak the injectors in carb cleaner?

 

Is there a filter I can remove and clean in the injector?

 

Should I empty the tank, pull the pump and inspect?

 

I can't see anything obvious in the fuel but possible there is some fine sediment. My working conditions haven't been pure enough to be sure but I don't think so.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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In 35+ years of riding I can remember every roadside repair. They suck at the time but later on they are like scars, every one of them makes a great campfire story. Good luck!

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Afternoon Roger

 

What you are seeing has the earmarks of a pressure hose inside the tank with a pin hole or split in it.

 

Lots of flow at no pressure but lack of pressure when attached to injector kind of points to filter & sock OK but pressure is opening up a release point inside the tank.

 

Next move should probably be to measure dead head fuel pressure or pull tank & inspect internal hoses.

 

Edited by dirtrider
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roger 04 rt

I called the gas station and grilled them. They are a Mobil station, with good practices, have records and no other reports of fuel contamination--so they say.

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More-- try hooking the pressure hose back up then uncoupling the return hose then check for flow from the engine side of the return hose. That will show if the pump & internal hose system has the ability to keep enough pressure in the system to force the pressure regulator to function.

 

If no flow from the return hose then your pump/hoses can't maintain enough pressure to open the pressure regulator so probably not enough pressure to inject.

 

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roger 04 rt
More-- try hooking the pressure hose back up then uncoupling the return hose then check for flow from the engine side of the return hose. That will show if the pump & internal hose system has the ability to keep enough pressure in the system to force the pressure regulator to function.

 

If no flow from the return hose then your pump/hoses can't maintain enough pressure to open the pressure regulator so probably not enough pressure to inject.

 

Thank you. Great idea. Good next step before offloading 5+ gallons.

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Good next step before offloading 5+ gallons.

 

Its a given that you will only have to drain the tank if it is full :grin:

 

When my RT died, I was literally 19 miles from my last fillup. Had to drain the whole stupid tank before I could start parting it out. I only had a 2g gas can at the time, so I ended up running around to the neighbors houses offering to fill their riding mowers.

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roger 04 rt

Yup. Tank is full minus abou 15 mi.

 

Pulled the return QD. Manually opened the valve. Pump on. Zero flow. Not enough pressure to open the fuel regulator. Tank gets emptied tomorrow a.m. Parts get ordered Monday.

 

Wondering if I should I use screw down clamps, the good ones, or learn to crimp the oetiker style?

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Afternoon Roger

 

Well the pump can make over 60 psi & the pressure regulator opens at about 43 psi so you have your answer.

 

On the clamps?-- I have the correct Oetiker pliers so usually use those but some have had no issues using the F/I type screw down clamps.

 

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roger 04 rt

Error Codes

The fuel pressure failed slowly and I drove for 5-10 miles with less than full pressure. That led to the mixture being leaner than required by the Motronic and O2 sensor at some point.X

 

Yesterday I read the GS-911 error codes, the O2 sensor error showed "shorted to ground" 76 times and the readout noted that the failure was not now present. (I have since confirmed that the Motronic and O2 sensor are working properly.) Coincidentally I had read the faults the day before fuel pressure failure and there were not any. So my deduction is the mixture ran leaner than normal for an extended period. When the Motronic hit the end of it's Adaptation range, it concluded that something was wrong with the O2 sensor, as opposed to knowing that the fuel pressure was low.

 

Hose Inside Fuel Tank

I haven't pulled the tank yet but feel pretty sure that a hose has ruptured or is loose. It's too bad that there is not a fuel pressure annunciator on our bikes. Fuel pressure is so critical to proper operation of the motorcycle and Oilheads are all roughly 10-20 years old now. If there had been a fuel pressure "idiot light" I could have more safely gotten the motorcycle off the highway since the failure condition progress over about 15-20 minutes.

 

That brings me to a question about the service life of the hose inside the tank. What is the correct replacement interval? I don't know about the technology but I know for sure that it's less than 10 years since mine failed. My plan now, assuming hose failure, to replace all three small hoses, the fuel strainer and the fuel filter (only a year old) since I'll have everything apart and don't have any idea about how long those hoses should last.

 

Although I used the screw clamps that came with the Beemer Boneyard metal QDs, I'm planning to get the tools and use Oetiker clamps. The screw down clamps worked but I remember having to really torque them down to get them leak-proof--perhaps because I had not replaced the external fuel hose.

 

So the tank gets drained and comes apart today, parts will get ordered on Monday and hopefully I'll be up and running by next weekend. If I find it's one of the short straight hoses, I may end up doing the job twice. Once a quick fix and then later, the whole job.

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Morning Roger

 

 

The service life on those internal hoses has a lot to do with what solvents & additives are in the fluid inside & surrounding in them.

 

In the old days we saw very few failures of those internal hoses. Now that the bikes are getting older & more alcohol & other hose rotting additives in the fual a hose failure is fairly common.

 

You don't even know for sure yet if you have a hose failure. Over the years I have seen cracked plastic pump outlet fittings, split fuel filters, loose clamps, etc.

 

I guess on an 8 year old bike it might be time. If the hoses are grayish looking then more than likely they are on their last legs.

 

I guess with the number of internal fuel line failures on the 1100/1150 I would probably be replacing those internal hoses at brake bleed time anytime after the 5 year mark & I had the tank removed.

 

My problem was back in the 1100/1150 days I never replaced fuel filters using a time or mile schedule. If clean fuel always used those filters will go well over a hundred thousand miles without plugging. Only one tank of dirty fuel & they pretty well plug up regardless of miles or time. In fact the BMW 1200 hexhead doesn't even have a replaceable fuel filter.

 

As far as a "fuel pressure annunciator or notifier" all my bikes have had an analog notification system. It just needs a road with little traffic & no LEO's. I usually run my bike out to top speed in high gear. Once the top speed is known then about once a week (or more if the mood strikes me) I run a fuel delivery test using that data as a baseline.

 

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roger 04 rt
Morning Roger

 

...

 

As far as a "fuel pressure annunciator or notifier" all my bikes have had an analog notification system. It just needs a road with little traffic & no LEO's. I usually run my bike out to top speed in high gear. Once the top speed is known then about once a week (or more if the mood strikes me) I run a fuel delivery test using that data as a baseline.

 

Thanks DR for the good info. At the moment, I'm picturing you hammering down the highway at 110 mph or more. Sounds like a blast, I won't ask the actual top speed.

 

Had there been a switch in my return line that signaled 5 PSI or less (or thereabouts) I would have had 10-15 minutes to get to safety. Now that I know the warning signs, I might be able to tell what was happening sooner. Had I made your test, I would have passed the day before and still had the same problem.

 

RB

Edited by roger 04 rt
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Morning Roger

 

Notice any changes in the type of fuel line used inside the 1200 hexhead pump system?

 

Seems BMW has gone the way of a lot of automotive units using convoluted plastic based line.

 

Wonder if you could find something down these lines top update your older rubber hose type. (unfortunately BMW doesn't sell individual parts for it's 1200 pump system)

 

Find something in the automotive line that works using the newer alcohol & additive proof convoluted piping. I would be willing to bet there is a market for a product of that type in the BMW motorcycle world.

 

1200fuelpump.jpg

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