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R1150RT Fuel Tank Hose Repair and Pump/Filter Service


roger 04 rt

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Roger - if you run the fuel pump dry you burn it up. Read this somewhere on the net. Others will no doubt confirm.

 

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roger 04 rt

I got a very quick response from Mike at Beemer Boneyard, actually impressively fast. He had me run some tests and we concluded that the pump should be replaced. He will have one here tomorrow. I'm really pleased at the response. Things do go wrong, what really matters is how problems get resolved. This was a first class reaction.

 

I won't get the injectors till tomorrow so this won't really delay the project.

 

RB

Edited by roger 04 rt
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roger 04 rt

Here is a photo of the old hoses and the new U-shaped hose. I'm now of the opinion that the hoses that failed were BMW parts. I don't know their ages. The fuel pump hose looks older than the U and the other attached to the fuel filter.

fuelfix5.JPG

 

Looking at the old U carefully as it is expanded, you can see a series of radial cracks.

fuelfix6.JPG

 

Mine can't be the only original hoses that have these cracks or that are leaking fuel. It just got to the point where the hoses on my bike failed. If these hoses are leaking more than the Motronic and O2 sensor can compensate for but not so much that they've failed, or at WOT, you could easily get lean-surge or pinging.

 

Unless you attach a GS-911, your Motronic could be putting out fault codes (mine did at failure) but you wouldn't know.

 

Perhaps this type of failure might also explain why some 1100s and 1150s can't be richened in Open Loop mode. The fuel pressure is just not high enough (but at the same time it's not so low that the bike won't run).

 

A couple more photos of the filler neck and safety valve.

fuelfix7.JPG

fuelfix8.JPG

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Roger

Just keep in mind that you haven't proven yet that this is your issue.

Doing such extensive overhaul, are you replacing your fuel filter as well? I hope so as now is the time to do it.

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roger 04 rt
Roger

Just keep in mind that you haven't proven yet that this is your issue.

Doing such extensive overhaul, are you replacing your fuel filter as well? I hope so as now is the time to do it.

 

II have to my own satisfaction, the hoses were leaking like sieves without any pressure on them before and after the filter. Yes, new filter and pump and external hoses while I'm at it. And new internal vent lines too.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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roger 04 rt

My injectors arrived from Marren Fuel Injection today. Here are the details of the report:

 

Injector Type: Sat 16.0 ohm

Test Pressure: 43 psi

Injector Part #: 0280155788

Test Pulse: 6 mS

Injector Maker: Bosch

Gravity Weight: 0.75 (what is this)

Static Flow: 350 cc/min

Remarks: Install new fuel filter

 

Before

Injector 1: 103.7 cc/min spray pattern: N/G (no good)

Injector 2: 108.0 cc/min spray pattern: OK

 

Reverse Cycle: Dirty, both injectors

Matching: 4.2% (I wonder what it was before 2 tanks of Techron Concentrate)

 

The 4.2% matching translates and a stock O2 sensor translates to AFRs of one cylinder running between 14.1:1 - 14.7:1 during closed loop and the other running between 14.7:1 - 15.3:1.

 

After

Injector 1: 108.9 cc/min spray pattern: OK

Injector 2: 111.1 cc/min spray pattern: OK

 

Leakage Test: Good, both injectors

Matching: 2.0%

 

I was hoping for a 2% or better match and am pleased with the results. This savings of 2% will, most likely allow me to raise my target AFR from 13.8:1 to 14.1:1 and get about the same results, perhaps better.

 

Waiting on the fuel pump which should arrive later today.

RB

 

Edited by roger 04 rt
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roger 04 rt

No fuel pump in the mail today, I'm a bit in the hinterlands of Cape Cod. Most likely tomorrow. I did take the time to cut open the fuel filter to see how it looked. No restriction which I knew from fuel volume at low pressure and clean as a whistle.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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I got a very quick response from Mike at Beemer Boneyard, actually impressively fast. He had me run some tests and we concluded that the pump should be replaced. He will have one here tomorrow. I'm really pleased at the response. Things do go wrong, what really matters is how problems get resolved. This was a first class reaction.

 

RB

 

Yup, that's been my experience with Mike at Beemer Boneyard. Sorry you're having bike troubles on the Cape. I'll be there starting on the 22nd for a week. If you're still there it would be fun to ride with you.

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roger 04 rt

The fuel supply rebuild is done, tested with GS-911 and LC-1 AFR control panel ... and test driven. It's been nine days from highway breakdown, through diagnosis, parts delivery and repair. Thanks to all who helped with diagnosis and support. This is a terrific community of riders. Thanks too to Beemer Boneyard and MaxBMW for their responsive service.

 

The replacement pump arrived today at noon by Priority Mail as Mike at Beemer Boneyard had promised and it worked great. I'd had everything ready, the pump got mounted and plate installed with a new gasket and torqued down to the fuel tank--45 in-lbs, not much. During installation I found a split fuel gauge O-ring in the bottom of the tank--Davey Jones locker.

 

Two gallons of fuel was put in the tank and checedk for leaks. The tank held and I put some containers at the fuel distributor heads where the injectors connect and ran a couple quarts of fuel through the system to make sure there were no bits beyond the filter. The fuel stream was much stronger than before the repair.

 

The injectors were then connected to the Motronic and pointed into containers and the engine turned over to fire the injectors and verify the fuel path. (I plan to build a quick-disconnect fuel pressure gauge this week and measure the pressure. But all seemed well so the injectors were installed into the TBs.

 

The Motronic had been reset but the engine cranked over a couple more times than normal and the bike fired up. At this point the GS-911 and LC-1's AFR gauge were reading normally. There was nothing left to do but fill the tank and take a 15 mile test ride. The bike is running great.

 

Symptoms

In case this helps anyone else, a recap of the symptoms that preceded the breakdown:

 

-Some slight surging after a few miles.

-Lack of WOT torque for 5 miles

-Rough running for 5 miles.

-Then the engine died.

 

Looking back on this there were enough symptoms in the early part of the ride that I should have turned around. Hopefully I've learned a lesson.

 

Cause

The internal fuel lines split enough that there was inadequate fuel pressure. I'm going to make fuel pressure a part of annual maintenance and replace the internal hoses when I replace the filter.

 

Parts replaced

-Three small high pressure lines inside the tank

-Vent line inside tank

-Drain line inside tank

-10 internal clamps

-Beemer Boneyard OEM Pump Kit (pump, strainer, filter, o-rings, screw clamps)

-2 external fuel lines and 4 clamps

-2 fuel injectors sent to lab for cleaning

 

Given that the internal hoses appear to have been submersible, but old, I believe they should be part of a period ice service checklist.

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Given that the internal hoses appear to have been submersible, but old, I believe they should be part of a period ice service checklist.

 

Good job. I'm glad you got it figured out. I think you simply got a bad piece of fuel line. I also think it's pretty rare. Fuel line is generally pretty tough. I used non-submersible line from the auto parts store inside my tank when I externalized the fuel filter on my RT. I didn't know any better. It still looked brand-new many years and many tens of thousands of miles later.

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roger 04 rt
Given that the internal hoses appear to have been submersible, but old, I believe they should be part of a period ice service checklist.

 

Good job. I'm glad you got it figured out. I think you simply got a bad piece of fuel line. I also think it's pretty rare. Fuel line is generally pretty tough. I used non-submersible line from the auto parts store inside my tank when I externalized the fuel filter on my RT. I didn't know any better. It still looked brand-new many years and many tens of thousands of miles later.

 

As I waited for parts I came across another post you'd made on the topic and knew that you'd inadvertently put non-submersible fuel hose in your tank but hadn't had a problem, I accept your observation.

 

What I would say to that is that all three of the hoses, that I now believe are original, were degraded--time, heat, gasoline and alcohol exposure. The hose coming from the fuel pump was in the worst physical condition but not leaking. The other two hoses look almost new until you examine them closely. I believe that many motorcycles will have similarly degraded hoses in the tank unless they've been replaced.

 

I just looked up the pump spec which is 110 liters per hour at 43 PSI, the pressure our bikes run at. Our injectors have a maximum flow of 350 cc/min so two of them can flow 750 cc/min or 45 liters/hour. Cruising at 75 MPH requires 20% of the injectors max flow (or a little less) that's about 9 liters/hour.

 

So the hoses inside the tank could be leaking at the rate of 70 liters per hour and you'd never know it.

 

I don't believe the situation I found is unique. At the same time I'm not surprised that, as of yet, you haven't had a problem.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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roger 04 rt

For those who want to make a fuel system test of an R1150RT to check its condition, here's a straightforward method based on the numbers in the last post (fuel pump delivers 110 liters/hour at 43 psi). Other systems may have different numbers.

 

Put a fuel pressure gauge in series with the high pressure line.

 

Take the return line and route it through a hose with a QD into a fuel container. Take all appropriate safety precaustions and have a proper fire extinguisher on hand. Do this outside if possible.

 

Start the motor and let it idle for two minutes exactly, then shut off the engine. You should have just under 1 gallon in the container. The fuel pressure during idle should read 43 PSI plus or minus 4 PSI.

 

Feel free to check the numbers, I'll be testing my system later this week or next.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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Hi Roger,

 

I took a trip up north to my favorite, independent shop yesterday to get some maintenance parts. They have a decent selection of repair parts, but nothing like a dealer. When I asked about the U-tube inside the tank, they pulled out a box-full of new ones. They said that failure is kinda common. Which I think is telling as they haven't always been in step with other issues that I've read about on this forum (stick coils). Dang, BMW is rather proud of that little piece of rubber - $36.

 

Thanks for your meticulous report of this issue and resolution. I hope that I'm sneaking up my knocking issue (even if it is rather slowly...)

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roger 04 rt

Thanks waynerd.

 

I got the chance today to split and study the hoses and see where the specific leaks were occurring. In the photo below you can see three splits:

 

--The worst, that I believe led to the breakdown, was in the U-shaped hose. It's a crack over 3/4" long on the inside and 1/2" on the outside.

 

--Also there were two splits on the hose going to the filter input each about 3/8" long on the inside and 1/8" and 1/4" on the outside.

 

It seems unlikely to me that all three splits occurred at the same moment. Most likely I've been driving for a long while with leaking "innards". It also leads me to conclude again that other bikes are likely to have this condition.

 

As long as the leaks are small enough that the fuel pressure remains around 43 psi which means that not more that 60-70 liters per hour (gulp!) are leaking internally, the motorcyle operates normally. Finally, one tears open and a catastrophic failure occurs.

 

fuelfix9.jpg

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oldironhead

Cracks or splits similar to those in the hoses in my tank are what motivated me to go with the Gates submersible hose and the steel curved piece. I can't guarantee that the Gates stuff is better than the German stuff, but it's widely used in automobiles, and I don't hear much about it failing. Plus, making a steel u shaped line was cheaper than that expensive curved piece.

Edited by oldironhead
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Afternoon oldironhead

 

Lots of hose failures in the automotive fuel tanks in the past. Most have now gone to a nylon or Teflon based plastic hose to prevent issues with inside tank failures due to fuel additives or alcohol in fuel.

 

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roger 04 rt
Afternoon oldironhead

 

Lots of hose failures in the automotive fuel tanks in the past. Most have now gone to a nylon or Teflon based plastic hose to prevent issues with inside tank failures due to fuel additives or alcohol in fuel.

 

I didn't have the time or access (where I'm located at the moment) to do this research but I believe such a kit would be great. I believe that about 4" of such a hose would make the bend from filter to plate.

 

As I mentioned the pump spec is 110 liters per hour at 43 PSI. What I haven't seen is its maximum pressure if, say, the QDs have been disconnected and the pump is activated. Under that scenario perhaps an aged hose could split, like mine did.

 

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roger 04 rt

I've just ordered a fuel pressure gauge that should be delivered this week, and "Caddis" who just replaced a set of QDs has offered to ship the old ones to me.

 

My plan is to take the gauge, plug it into a T-fitting, and add a male & female QD with hose to the other two ends of the T-fitting. I would plug that into the high pressure feed hose at the bike Quick Disconnect.

 

Then I would take another hose, add a QD to one end, connect it to the return side of the pressure regulator and put the hose into a fuel container.

 

I will then either start the bike or jumper the fuel pump relay and measure the amount of fuel that gets pumped into the container in one minute (should be about a half gallon). The supply pressure would be measured during pumping.

 

If the pressure is in spec, 43 psi plus/minus 4 psi, and the volume is about a half gallon (3 lbs.), the fuel pressure/volume system is functional and very likely the internal hoses are leak-free

Edited by roger 04 rt
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roger 04 rt

Today I put together a fuel pressure gauge and flow-volume testing setup to create a baseline for my R1150RT. The spec for the pressure regulator is 43 psi and the fuel pump is rated for 110 liters per hour.

 

Here's a photo of the fuel pressure gauge connected to two QDs salvaged from a plastic to metal QD conversion. And a female QD connected to a collection hose. The idea is to connect the fuel gauge to the high pressure feed hose, and connect the collection hose to the regulator side of the return line so that fuel bypassing the fuel pressure regulator is collected in the container and weighed. This way you can measure both the fuel pressure and total fuel volume.

 

In order to develop 95 HP (R1150 Max.), the system has to be able to output a minimum of 35 to 40 liters per hour.

fuelfix10.JPG

 

Here is the system connected to the motorcycle.

fuelfix11.JPG

 

Here is the idle fuel pressure, 44 psi.

fuelfix12.JPG

 

I ran the motorcycle for 60 seconds and collected 3 lbs. 13 oz. of fuel which equates to 0.64 gallons (6 lbs. per gallon), which translates to 145 liters per hour. Much better than the pump spec of 110 l/h and easily 3 times the amount required to produce full power. Every 10 minutes the pump runs 5 gallons of fuel through the system.

 

Thinking back on the failure of my system and the multiple cracks in the hose. I suspect that my system was running fine with some leaks but then one opened to the point where there was little to no fuel pressure. If I'd been measuring pressure and volume once a year I might have caught this long ago.

 

The 145 l/h will serve as a baseline for future measurement to assess the health of the fuel delivery system including pump, filter and internal hose condition.

 

As a side note, the new pump is noticeably quieter than the old one. Also the engine is noticeably smoother (am I imagining this?) Which I believe is due to the better injector matching (< 2%) after cleaning.

 

RB

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roger 04 rt
fuelfix11.JPG

 

What is the clear tubing for?

Andy

 

Hi Andy, Good question. This gauge came with a pressure relief valve that runs through the hose should be inserted into the collection tank.

 

Since the QDs work so effectively, In the photo you can see the gauge at 40 PSI even though I had opened the QDs, connected the pressure gauge, collection tube, and the bike isn't running. RB

Edited by roger 04 rt
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roger 04 rt

 

One thing I wish I'd done is to run the pressure gauge in the return line first. Although I'm curious about the pressure there which is low, I'd have preferred to clear the gauge hoses before I put them in series with the fuel injectors which need to be kept really clean--all these gauges get connected after the filter. I did blow the lines out but I noticed afterward that the fuel pressure hose had some oil in it that must have been put there by the manufacturer. No mention in the instructions.

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Roger......

Following this thread, I can't help but think how great it would be to have Andy as a neighbor on one side and you on the other!!......Not to leave any of the other master mech's out that have posted here.....

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roger 04 rt

Thanks Phil, nice of you to say so and I do appreciate it, but there are dozens of people who post and read here with more experience than me. I'm lucky to have the time to write stuff down and I lean heavily on the more experienced mechanics on this board.

 

What I'm trying to do is explore the fueling system and Motronic in areas that haven't had as much attention in the past.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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Roger.......

Additionally, your problem really rang a bell....Kathy also has an '04 1150 and about 3 years ago while she was riding by herself in Colorado around Grand Junction (we live in California) the bike stuttered and wouldn't run well, but it did run, kind of...She went to a local shop, left it overnight, and they couldn't find anything wrong...Bike ran OK and she rode home....

A year or so later coming back from Utah it quit on the freeway in Vegas and it took her over an hour in very high heat, stuck in the middle divider, to get a tow truck to take it to the BMW dealer...Fuel pump was replaced and, hopefully, the hoses in there too..

Seems we had a heads up we didn't pay attention to....

Edited by Redbrick
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roger 04 rt
Roger.......

Additionally, your problem really rang a bell....Kathy also has an '04 1150 and about 3 years ago while she was riding by herself in Colorado around Grand Junction (we live in California) the bike stuttered and wouldn't run well, but it did run, kind of...She went to a local shop, left it overnight, and they couldn't find anything wrong...Bike ran OK and she rode home....

A year or so later coming back from Utah it quit on the freeway in Vegas and it took her over an hour in very high heat, stuck in the middle divider, to get a tow truck to take it to the BMW dealer...Fuel pump was replaced and, hopefully, the hoses in there too..

Seems we had a heads up we didn't pay attention to....

 

I'd make a set up like mine, or get a friend to, and baseline your bikes. The 1150 should have 43 psi +-4 and at least a third gallon per minute return flow. It's amazing how much in-the-tank leakage a good pump can drive.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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roger 04 rt

If you could check the markings on your left over line BMW p/n 16121180040 I'd appreciate it. Mine is as follows:

Printed-BMW 22/11/31 12:02 C-8x13

Embossed->NBR/NBR< continuously

 

Got a PM with the question. The BMW p/n above is for the submersible in-tank hose. It's not well labled. When I asked Max BMW here was their reply:

 

C-8X13.  All blue ink.  The rest is just time stamps from the factory.

 

Mine had all blue writing, time and date stamps and C-8X13 BMW, all in blue lettering.

 

There is no SAE 30R10 marking or indication. So since they sell you a meter and you only need a few inches I'm going to label it for future use.

RB

Edited by roger 04 rt
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There is no SAE 30R10 marking or indication.

 

That is because SAE 30R10 is a US specification not used in Europe.

 

As another data point, this weekend I gave my bike its 96,000 mile service - including a fuel filter change as this was a few services overdue. With my bike now being eight-years-old, and with 5% methanol being a mandated addition to all fuel in the EU for the past few years, I thought I would pre-emptively replace the in-tank rubber.

When I came to do the job I found all the rubber in good condition - no signs of splits or brittleness. In fact, the existing rubber was noticeably softer and more pliable than the new. I have kept the hoses than came out to use as emergency spares - I shall check their condition from time-to-time to see if they harden up as the hydrocarbons evaporate out of the rubber.

 

Andy

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roger 04 rt

Understand about the SAE marking. Wanted others to know too. Thanks for the clarification.

 

Interesting about the condition of your hoses. You mention 5% methanol. I wonder if that is easier on rubber than 10% ethanol? After being out of the tank for a week my old hoses got crumbly as they dried but looked quite good at first.

 

I'm curious if you can run a return volume test?

Edited by roger 04 rt
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Ooops - I meant Ethanol, not Methanol :dopeslap:

 

I will try to run a return volume test in the near future - but it will not be until the weekend at the earliest.

 

Andy

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NBR is the magic wording on the EuroHose... :thumbsup:

Also, one of the Andys might know the answer to this question.

Do you have such stuff as HEET on your shelves in the UK. It is very commonly used here in those states with nasty COLD winters. Perhaps excessive use in motorcycles (one bottle to a 6 gallon tank, say!) contributes to NBR hose degredation.

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Afternoon Roger

 

Modern U.S. gasoline is hard on rubber hoses for a number of reasons.

 

Obviously alcohol (all kinds) causes hose degradation.

 

Then you have compounds like Toluene in the gasoline that is very destructive to hose material.

 

Now add in high operating pressure to operate a fuel injection system & return the engine heated fuel back into the fuel tank to make the internl hoses operate at elevated temps.

 

Most modern automobiles have done away with rubber type hoses inside the fuel tank in favor of nylon, or silicon /teflon based, or even plastic.

 

Bet the aircraft industry has a premptive replacement cycle for internal fuel hoses.

 

Probem with the automobile or motorcycle end is most hoses are a wait until failure to replace not replace before failure.

 

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Thanks for the fuel line clarification Roger & Phil. Glad I don't have to yard that assy. back out of the tank. It sure seems to be easy to get the wrong hose,even from the dealer.

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roger 04 rt
Afternoon Roger

 

Modern U.S. gasoline is hard on rubber hoses for a number of reasons.

 

Obviously alcohol (all kinds) causes hose degradation.

 

Then you have compounds like Toluene in the gasoline that is very destructive to hose material.

 

Now add in high operating pressure to operate a fuel injection system & return the engine heated fuel back into the fuel tank to make the internl hoses operate at elevated temps.

 

Most modern automobiles have done away with rubber type hoses inside the fuel tank in favor of nylon, or silicon /teflon based, or even plastic.

 

Bet the aircraft industry has a premptive replacement cycle for internal fuel hoses.

 

Probem with the automobile or motorcycle end is most hoses are a wait until failure to replace not replace before failure.

As usual, you make some good points DR.

 

A lot of an aircraft's systems are subject to annual or 100 hour inspections. The fuel tanks on my plane were rubber. I'm not sure anymore but I don't think that 100LL (low lead) had any alcohol in it.

 

Waiting for a breakdown in a car, motorcycle and aircraft have different degrees of risk. When my hoses blew out, I was in heavy 4 lane traffic, in the left-most lane with no left breakdown going 75 miles per hour. My attempts to get to the right were met mostly with surprise and to a degree with frustration on the part of the other drivers. Under part-power, I managed to limp my way to the right in broad daylight, no rain. Had it been evening and inclement weather, it would have been a lot tougher.

 

Opening the tank once a year sounds extreme but replacing the internal hoses every 5-6 years doesn't sound too bad. As an alternative, once a year a hose could be connected to the regulator side of the return line and the return volume measured. I measured more than half a gallon after the repair. In the future, if I measured much less than that, I think I'd open the tank and look around.

 

There is probably some number between 0 gallons per minute (clearly a problem) and half a gallon a minute (very good) that should set off alarm bells. Since BMW hasn't given any advice on the matter, I guess it is up to each of us to decide how to proceed.

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Jovial Henry

Great idea. I have been thinking about checking the flow. I hate to buy the piece of connector 13537700800 for $30. Could cut the clamp and remove connector then ad some hose???

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Afternoon Roger

 

Modern U.S. gasoline is hard on rubber hoses for a number of reasons.

 

Obviously alcohol (all kinds) causes hose degradation.

 

Then you have compounds like Toluene in the gasoline that is very destructive to hose material.

 

Now add in high operating pressure to operate a fuel injection system & return the engine heated fuel back into the fuel tank to make the internl hoses operate at elevated temps.

 

Most modern automobiles have done away with rubber type hoses inside the fuel tank in favor of nylon, or silicon /teflon based, or even plastic.

 

Bet the aircraft industry has a premptive replacement cycle for internal fuel hoses.

 

Probem with the automobile or motorcycle end is most hoses are a wait until failure to replace not replace before failure.

 

I'm using this hose kit from Euro Motoelectrics in my GS. It is nylon corrugated and rated 30r10 for submersion in gas. I moved the filter to the outside and replaced the filter and the U piece with one length of this hose. I also replaced the pump connection with a section of this hose. The hose bends easy in the corrugated section, and didn't seem stressed at all making the U. I have seen this type hose used on automotive in tank pump assemblies (GM). The old hose was still good but it seemed to be getting "mushy".

 

Cheers

Steve

Edited by Steve W.
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roger 04 rt
Great idea. I have been thinking about checking the flow. I hate to buy the piece of connector 13537700800 for $30. Could cut the clamp and remove connector then ad some hose???

 

That's the male half, I think you want the female half, $20. Double check.

 

Afternoon Roger

 

Modern U.S. gasoline is hard on rubber hoses for a number of reasons.

 

Obviously alcohol (all kinds) causes hose degradation.

 

Then you have compounds like Toluene in the gasoline that is very destructive to hose material.

 

Now add in high operating pressure to operate a fuel injection system & return the engine heated fuel back into the fuel tank to make the internl hoses operate at elevated temps.

 

Most modern automobiles have done away with rubber type hoses inside the fuel tank in favor of nylon, or silicon /teflon based, or even plastic.

 

Bet the aircraft industry has a premptive replacement cycle for internal fuel hoses.

 

Probem with the automobile or motorcycle end is most hoses are a wait until failure to replace not replace before failure.

 

I'm using this hose kit from Euro Motoelectrics in my GS. It is nylon corrugated and rated 30r10 for submersion in gas. I moved the filter to the outside and replaced the filter and the U piece with one length of this hose. I also replaced the pump connection with a section of this hose. The hose bends easy in the corrugated section, and didn't seem stressed at all making the U. I have seen this type hose used on automotive in tank pump assemblies (GM). The old hose was still good but it seemed to be getting "mushy".

 

Cheers

Steve

 

SteveW, Thanks that looks like a really good option.

 

I should have posted the following photo at the start of the thread but the photo below shows the "part" I had to temporarily add to get my bike the last 100 miles of my trip. All the repair parts (including a new pump) cost less than the "tow device". ;)

biketow.JPG

Edited by roger 04 rt
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Hi all,

So despite my lack of fuel delivery problems I have decided to do the in tank fuel line remove and replace to avoide having to rent the "part' in the photo above. Just to be clear. A hose marked NBR is intended for submersion. This is the euro version of 30r10? Gas resistant both inside and out, yes?

Larry

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Jovial Henry

Thanks for that link. I have purchased from them in the past and was very pleased with the service. I did not know they had the fuel stuff. I am ordering the hose kit for next time I remove the tank.

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I should have posted the following photo at the start of the thread but the photo below shows the "part" I had to temporarily add to get my bike the last 100 miles of my trip. All the repair parts (including a new pump) cost less than the "tow device". ;)

 

Haha - I'm lovin' it. Good post Roger.

Andy

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roger 04 rt

biketow.JPG

 

I should have posted the following photo at the start of the thread but the photo below shows the "part" I had to temporarily add to get my bike the last 100 miles of my trip. All the repair parts (including a new pump) cost less than the "tow device". ;)

 

 

Haha - I'm lovin' it. Good post Roger.

Andy

 

The delivery time for the spare "part" wasn't too bad, only 3 hours waiting at the side of the road, plus a half hour loading and unloading plus 2 1/2 driving at tow truck speed. So 100 miles/6 hours made my average speed about 17 MPH, I usually do better than that ...

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  • 2 months later...

Hello everyone, after hearing about all of the problems with the quick disconnects I decided to take my fairing off to take a look. This is what I found. Can anyone tell me if these are the faulty OEM plastic ones?

 

IMAG0615.jpg

 

 

Edited by shweller
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You have the BMW metal male part with the plastic female - these are BMWs updated parts to address the issue of the male part breaking.

 

Andy

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You have the BMW metal male part with the plastic female - these are BMWs updated parts to address the issue of the male part breaking.

 

Andy

Great! Thank you.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi all I have a question. Are all the hoses the same diameter? If so what are they, or if not what are they? I've had another problem and I also have an 04 with lots of miles. I don't know the history of the bike and would like to avoid Rogers sitting on the side of the road. Once I find out the sizes I will make a pressure guage for both sides, pressure and return. Thanks.

 

Jack

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The in-tank hoses have to be rated for submersion in gasoline. There are two metric sizes that are roughly 3/16 and 5/15. One of the hoses is U shaped. The best source for the intank hoses is BMW.

 

There are the sames sizes externally. Beemer boneyard is a good source.

 

Clamps can be FI adjustable or Oetiker.

 

There's lots of additional detailed in this thread.

Edited by roger 04 rt
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