Hexhead: Video Link to Oil Change Procedure

Max BMW has some nice videos on YouTube.

to a hexhead oil change done by one of their service personnel. It's for a GS, but has applications for the RT as well.

And the R, S and ST.

Pretty basic skills here. Surprised that Max BMW did not prime the oil filter before installation. Prime meaning fill it with oil then screw into place.

 

Seen articles saying this is necessary on cars and then some folks will say it is dependent on oil path. Nevertheless, pretty simple to do.

 

Another topic on oil changes, pre-warm up or do cold. Thought behind warm is all the dirty particles flow out with out oil. Theory on doing cold is that dirty particles float down to the bottom of the engine and drain out with cold oil. When you start, all the dirty particles recirculate into the engine and may not come out with the hot oil. Had a Suzuki 1200S Bandit. No way you could do the filter when hot as it was just behind the 4 to 1 header. You would burn the hell out of yourself doing hot against pipes.

 

Another thought oil changes- is it really necessary on a bike to change filters at every change. In a car, filters are cheaper ($3 to $5) and hold up to 20% of the oil capacity many times. Motorcycle, much smaller filter but still 4 quarters of oil maybe representing 7 to 10% of oil and $10 to $15. Why mix dirty oil with new oil? When such a small amount, is that really a big deal?

 

Been chaning oil on my vehicles (seven of them now) since '68. My observations and no engineering reports to base by thoughts on, just some common sense.

 

Nathan Margolis

'13 BMW R1200RT

'04 BMW R1100S

'73 Triumph 750 Tiger

'69 Corvette Stingray

'95 Mustang GT with blower

2 daily drivers

 

 

This is how I change the oil on my 2012 RT.

 

When I get home from work I pull the plug and oil filter. I let it drain overnight to make sure all the oil or as much as possible drains out. Oil will slowly drain down from the oil cooler. So by morning hopefully all the oil will be out of the cooler and oil lines. Then I place the bike on the side stand and let the trapped oil from the right cylinder and valve cover run down. Then I lean it on the right side against my body and hold it there for about a minute and let the oil drain out the left cylinder and valve cover. Then it is back on the center stand. This method of leaning the bike will surprise you how much more oil drains out. Then I use shop air with a air nozzle and place it in the oil filler hole on the valve cover and blast air through and more oil spits out. By now most of the oil is out. Then I install the drain plug, prime the oil filter and add a total of 4 liters and after a good run the oil level is approx. 1/4 of a liter below the top of the red circle on the sight glass. I guess BMW figures 4 liters will bring it up to the top of the circle which means approx 250ml of dirty oil is still trapped in the engine. My method must get that 250ml of dirty oil out of the engine.

 

My oil change, from start to finish on Youtube:

 

Where do you get your filter, I like the socket at the bottom

If you can not put a number on it, it is voodoo. 

 

A quote from a sailing friend when opinions are bandied about.

 

I remember a post on this forum from years ago when a member sent it oil samples every 3,000 milesand posted the analysis here.

 

It showed that changing oil every 3,000 miles was unnecessary wasting money.  At 6K the oil was still good, at 9K the oil was still good.

 

Now folks who use full synthetic and change every 3,000 miles are ignoring the chief benefit of increased change intervals. Of course, it was necessary in their father's 53 Chevy, not so much today. 

 

How good does a filter have to be?

 

Internet full of stories how your engine will self destruct because of  FRAM oil filters as "everybody knows" they are junk, etc.

 

It that were true, one would expect class action suits with proof. I don't know of any. Anyone else hear of FRAM being sued because their filters didn't properly perform?

 

Now how about John Deere lawnmowers. JD sells pre-filled filters. Screw it on and your "oil change" is complete. 

 

Only $40. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxkkuPldMro

 

For the OCD rider, why not change it at 1,500 miles instead of 3,000 miles? Isn't it better to be safe than sorry? 

 

Where is that tongue in cheek emoji when I need it???

 

 

Hi Bud, I'm not sure they should go 1.5k miles on their oil.  Kinda dangerous!