Baja, etc.

Yesterday, I returned from a trip to Baja; 3841 miles without any real problems. No mechanical issues, accidents, speeding tickets, theft, or disease.

Being obsessive-compulsive, I read everything I could find and attempted to anticipate every eventuality. I thoroughly prepped my GS (including having the u-joints rebuilt) and carried spare parts (FPC, antenna ring, cables). I also practiced plugging a flat tire.

For this trip, I left the panniers at home. Instead, I carried almost everything in one dry bag with a loaded weight of 35 pounds. I had a tank bag for a few other items I accessed more frequently. A lightly-loaded GS is a pleasure.

I crossed into Mexico at Tecate, a very low-key border town. The only problem I encountered was an incorrect duration on my tourist visa, a problem I did not discover until well after Tecate. Although I did not exceed my allowed stay, it could have ended less well.

A few of the documents I carried were unnecessary. Yes, Mexican liability insurance is mandatory. Don’t leave home without it. However, expecting frequent financially-motivated traffic stops, I carried copies of my passport’s information page, vehicle registration, and operator’s license. Other than many military checkpoints, I was not stopped, and I never had to provide documentation. The two Bajas (north and south) are unique in that they do not require one to post a bond before bringing in one’s vehicle. Consequently, a TVIP (temporary vehicle import permit) is not needed. From almost everything that I read, it appeared that a TVIP would be issued only if I produced my bike’s title; original not a copy. Didn’t work that way. All I needed was my bike’s registration when applying for the TVIP before going to Sinaloa and Sonora.

Baja, including the Pemex gas stations, generally does not accept credit cards. Cash is necessary and can be obtained from ATMs. Bear in mind that ATMs are not to be found in every town. I had a few tense moments when running low on cash.

There is a stretch of almost 200 miles between El Rosario and San Ignacio without a gas station. About midway, gas can be bought from enterprising locals, but I was able to go the distance.

I carried a steel cable and padlock to secure my bike at night. As it turned out, I never used them. Other than Ensenada, I felt completely safe. In Loreto, the desk clerk at the hotel allowed me to roll my bike into the hotel’s courtyard.

Mexican traffic is different but after adjusting to its flow, I got the impression that the apparent chaos is not mixed with inattentiveness. I never saw another driver texting. Again, I felt pretty safe. Admittedly, once off of the toll roads, the lanes are narrow and shoulders frequently nonexistent. It was not unusual to encounter oncoming trucks partially across the center line. Flashing the high beam was usually enough to regain my entire lane.

I crossed the Sea of Cortez from Baja Sur (at La Paz) to Sinaloa (at Topolobampo) on a ferry. There are two ferry companies: TMC and Baja Ferries. When I was there, the latter ran ferries only during the day. Wanting to take an overnight trip, and arrive rested, I chose TMC’s San Guillermo. Not a good choice. The San Guillermo transports tractor/trailer rigs almost exclusively. The only sleeping accommodation was a “lounge” with the remains of some airline seats. Instead, I zipped up my Aerostich Roadcrafter and stretched out on a deck away from the idling trucks and their oil spills. A good night’s sleep was not to be had. Included with the boarding pass was a meal ticket. Everyone got the same selection of rice, beans, and mystery (horse?) meat. No beer was available to dull the pain.

After a relatively quick 500 mile ride, I got to Nogales and turned in my TVIP. From there it was a few more miles to the U.S. border crossing. The truck lanes were backed up for miles. The car/RV/bike lanes were significantly better but it appeared that I would have to wait an hour or more. A gentleman selling souvenirs told me that, because I was on a motorcycle, I could jump the line. Really? I rode between a concrete barrier and the line of stopped cars to get to the front. Several times, people FOLDED IN THEIR MIRRORS SO THAT I COULD PASS. Frankly, I still don’t know why I was permitted to do that. It was just a final example, of many examples, of gracious behavior exhibited by the Mexicans.

Overall, Mexico was not my cup of tea. It probably comes down to my wanting no surprises. Although people were generally as helpful as they could be, I found it difficult to get the same answer from two different sources. There was a lot of confusion in the ferry crossing and the resulting paperwork.

YMMV

Bob

Most excellent report. I will commend you to the Principle.

Hi Bob, got any pictures?

Hi Bob, got any pictures?

No, I left the camera at home (along with the kitchen sink).

Bob

Good report! I really enjoyed reading about your experiences, and I agree with you that if you aren't comfortable with surprises, Mexico is probably not where you want to ride...