pclarin Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Hi all, I need some guidance in getting to the windshield motor and drive gears on my '96 RT. Trying to remove the Tupperware to get at it to replace the works. I have a coffee can full of screws and bolts already. I'm aways away from getting anything loose. Losing my nerve - it's going to be a long weekend. I swore I had a pdf of the shop manual for this thing but it too is hiding from me. Cordially, Paul Link to comment
n5926g Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Greetings Paul! I have replaced mine on my 99,and it wasn't a really big deal.The Front fairing has to come off.After pulling the Tupperware,remove the turn signals,and you will be two large screws..one on each side...Take them out,and there will be two more exposed once the Tupperware is off.Remove them,and pull the "nosecone"...Be sure to remove the windscreen screws first.The motor assembly will be readily apparent,and easy to swap out. Link to comment
pclarin Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) Do you remove the three mirror mounting nipples on each side to remove the nosecone Tupperware? I've taken quite a bit off but clearly not enough to free the nose plastic. It was going good - then I chickened out. You're in Hernando MS? No way! Grew up in Corinth - my younger brother just moved from Olive Branch to Arkansas for work. Ole Miss grads. Edited August 29, 2014 by pclarin Link to comment
n5926g Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) You bet!...I bought a 99 1100 RT from the wife,s uncle with 14,000 original miles on it....The list of what I have replaced would boggle the mind,but Im determined to get her back the way she should be....Concerning the turn signals.....These just "pop" off with the carefully placed bump of the hand,remove the lamp from its socket,and set them aside...The large screw will be right behind the turn signal mount.Total of 4....Each signal has 3 "sockets",and the nosecone has 3 pins....Once the signals are "bumped loose" nothing else needs to be done. Bought MY replacement motor assy on ebay cheap...so to speak....:-)BTW.... I have relatives in Corinth...small world! Edited August 29, 2014 by n5926g Link to comment
pclarin Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Ok I think I need to look inside the mirror base. I have removed the mirrors and the two screws that you mention. I need to look closer for the other two on each side. An RT with 14,000 miles ought to wonderful - was it left outside to need the extra work? I have a '96 RS and RT. The RS I bought with only 18k miles - has 30k now. Fun. But if you want to travel take the RT. Thanks for your help. Link to comment
n5926g Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 (edited) MY 1100 was "involved" in Katrina...I was led to believe that the "flooding" was minor,but have evidence to the contrary,so far I have replaced Starter,Alternator,clutch,brake calipers,drive shaft,throttle bodies,TPS,HES,and oh yeah almost forgot...ENGINE..... The other two large screws are in front of"and below" the turn signal screws,about 5 inches....If you have the Tupperware off,they should be readily apparent. Edited August 29, 2014 by n5926g Link to comment
pclarin Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Oh sorry. Katrina went past here and gave us about 20 inches of rain but that was it. When it rains hard here it just roll off the land and into the ocean so unless we have lots of wind to give us a storm surge we don't usually flood. Katrina turned north from here and you know the story. I do not have the Tupperware off the nose. Link to comment
n5926g Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Pull IT,and you will see what you need to do....:-) Link to comment
pclarin Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 I believe I have located a couple more screws that need to come out to let the nosecone go. Maybe Saturday will be a good day. Thanks Partner Link to comment
Charles Elms Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Remember to pull the headlight bulb and running light before you pull the nose out. Link to comment
pclarin Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Remember to pull the headlight bulb and running light before you pull the nose out. Check - thanks for the reminder. Link to comment
pclarin Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Mission accomplished! Well, I have things removed - now just waiting on the ebay replacements and to then get it all put back together without leftover pieces. Thanks again to all. paul Link to comment
MontanaMark Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Paul, You do know about the relays that operate the up & down of the windscreen, right? Located at the starboard side. You don't say why you are replacing the motor, but I assume that when you hit the switch, nothing happens, right? I've had two different windscreen failures on my 99 RT; first the handlebar switch, then the relays. I've never heard of a motor failing - they are really robust. Usually it's a problem like relays, connectors, wiring or the switch. While you have the nose off, you may want to apply some dielectric lubricant to all the various & sundry connectors. It can get wet and certainly will get dusty under the nose. Cheers, Mark Link to comment
freebird6 Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Thanks for the analysis. The 99RT is having intermittent windshield cut outs. Sounds like the wiring may be the culprit. Can't imagine the relay being intermittent. Not so sure about the switch. Link to comment
pclarin Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Switch works fine. The windshield rises and lowers as usual but the windshield would slam down to the lowered position if hit by a blast of wind - from truck or some force of nature. I'm guessing the drive gears are the issue. I do know of the relays - I took them both out today and cleaned and weather proofed them both with the very grease you suggest. My new part should be in next week. We'll see if I had a clue or if there is some other issue going on. Oh, the motor still works in the old setup. It's the shaft drives that are the issue. (I think.) Link to comment
MontanaMark Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 OK, got a better idea now of what's going on. Sounds like you have a handle on it. During my failures, the screen would just move in one direction only or stop working altogether. I never had the situation you describe with the screen slamming down. Does sound like drive gears or some such. And yup, I did experience intermittent failure of the relays. The screen would work for a while, then all of a sudden, no go. I did finally isolate it to the relays. Link to comment
pclarin Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 OK, got a better idea now of what's going on. Sounds like you have a handle on it. During my failures, the screen would just move in one direction only or stop working altogether. I never had the situation you describe with the screen slamming down. Does sound like drive gears or some such. And yup, I did experience intermittent failure of the relays. The screen would work for a while, then all of a sudden, no go. I did finally isolate it to the relays. Yes it's a very strange thing. Once I get the replacement installed - I hope to dissect the old one to see what was what. Link to comment
Galactic Greyhound Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 n5926g: Thanks for the info on nosecone removal! Here's some info on R1100RT Windscreen electrics which might come in handy: R1100RT WINDSCREEN ELECTRICS Author: Galactic Greyhound. Date: 22/05/2012. Ref: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=779158#Post779158 The windscreen circuit uses two fuses; Fuse #3 15A is for the windshield motor and this fuse also supplies the power outlets. Fuse #4 7.5A is for the windshield UP and DOWN relay coils and this fuse also supplies the horn. You need to check BOTH fuses #3 & #4 as the windshield will not work if any of these fuses are blown. The 12v power to the windscreen motor is reversed by the UP/DOWN relays depending on whether the motor is required to Raise or Lower the screen i.e the motor is reversible - you can connect 12v to it and it will turn one way,reverse the voltage and it will turn the other way. Link to comment
pclarin Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 After oh so many months of the RT sitting and waiting on me to put it back together - I did so this weekend. I need to source a set of faring fasteners. After so many off and on over the past 19 years the set I have are shot. Many of the 3mm screw/bolts rounded out. Again, thank you all for your input. Screen works just dandy. Link to comment
CoolTouch Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I bought a box of stainless screws and they polish easily with a slight hit on a polishing wheel. Box of 50 cost $8.77 available at McMaster Carr Part number and description below... 94500A232. Type 316 SS Button-head Socket Cap Screw, M5 Size, 16 Mm Long, 0.8 Mm Pitch Link to comment
pclarin Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share Posted February 7, 2015 Thanks CoolTouch. Link to comment
Len Weiss Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 I have a 2004 R1150RT. The worm wheel that fits over the hex driveshaft of the windshield up/down mechanism is worn and needs to be replaced. It is an available part. I have removed the left and right circlips holding the shaft in place. There is no connecting pin on the right hand side of the shaft (as shown in the BMW schematic). I have not been able to slide the shaft to the left or right to remove it from the housings at each end. Do the short swing arms also need to be removed? Or can anyone describe the correct manner to replace the worm wheel? Thanks in advance. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 (edited) I have a 2004 R1150RT. The worm wheel that fits over the hex driveshaft of the windshield up/down mechanism is worn and needs to be replaced. It is an available part. I have removed the left and right circlips holding the shaft in place. There is no connecting pin on the right hand side of the shaft (as shown in the BMW schematic). I have not been able to slide the shaft to the left or right to remove it from the housings at each end. Do the short swing arms also need to be removed? Or can anyone describe the correct manner to replace the worm wheel? Thanks in advance. Afternoon Len Yes, that worm gear should be available (at least it was) at about $27.00. The shaft slides out (usually very tight fit to the worm gear) after removing the E clips & outer arms. I haven't done many & the last one was a few years ago but on that one I had to cut the gear with die grinder to get it to slide off the shaft. Added: when you say connecting pin are you referring to the (4) connecting pins (2 on each side) on the free arms? Edited March 18, 2018 by dirtrider Link to comment
Len Weiss Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Hi D.R., Thanks for the prompt reply. I thought the shaft would slide without removing those arms. Applied penetrating oil to see if that would help, but the bike resides at a vacation home, and I won't be back for a few weeks to see the results. Then it occurred to me that the outer arms might be a rrestricting issue. I'll try removing them and let you know the outcome; probably within the next month. Regarding the connecting pin, I was referring to part #14 in MAXBMW schematic 46_0335 - WINDSHIELD ADJUSTMENT, ELECTR. It is positioned just outside the right hand circlip on the shaft. But it is definitely not on my machine. Again, thanks. Regards, Len Link to comment
dirtrider Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Hi D.R., Thanks for the prompt reply. I thought the shaft would slide without removing those arms. Applied penetrating oil to see if that would help, but the bike resides at a vacation home, and I won't be back for a few weeks to see the results. Then it occurred to me that the outer arms might be a rrestricting issue. I'll try removing them and let you know the outcome; probably within the next month. Regarding the connecting pin, I was referring to part #14 in MAXBMW schematic 46_0335 - WINDSHIELD ADJUSTMENT, ELECTR. It is positioned just outside the right hand circlip on the shaft. But it is definitely not on my machine. Again, thanks. Regards, Len Morning Len Yes, outer arms need to be removed. On the pin (#14), that is what I thought you were referring to. If you notice the quantity column you will see (4 required). Those are the 4 pins for the free floating arms. Apparently BMW just placed the pin (picture) in that location near the E-clip to confuse people (It doesn't go there on the motorcycle). Link to comment
Len Weiss Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 Hi D.R., Job complete and successful; nice to have an functioning windscreen. I removed the clips and pins holding the short arms. Needed encouragement with silicone spray and light tapping with a punch to slide the shaft through the arms. I think it could be done without removal of the arms if there wasn't much weathering of the shaft to the arms. Worm wheel came off with ease. Thanks again! Regards, Len Link to comment
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