What issues (major/minor) will a 2003 k12gt with 80k have?

Looking at buying one. My last BMW was a 00' type 249, not looking to get into that mess again. Does the k surge, lose transmissions and final drives at 60-80k like the type 249 did? Please no apolagista's, I need to know, my cash has never been more harder earned than it is now. Is the switchgear an issue? After unloading my type 249, the only bmw I would buy was an aprilia, just saying...

At 80k, my first question is has it had a clutch ?

Second is, has the cooling system been flushed regularly ?

The water/oil pump shaft gets pitted a bit under normal conditions but when the old coolant is left in there for years, it chews up the shaft and seal . The pump is 550.00 + plus new bolts, o rings, rad cap.

The driveshaft can need attention near 100K if ridden normally.

They run warm so coolant flushes and rad caps by the book time-wise is smart .

The motor can go 250k plus easily of taken care of.

The clutch is a whopper if it's never been done .

All of that stuff ^^

The rear main seal always leaked on those. At 80K the bike has either had it done, or there's oil dripping out the bottom of the bell housing. The clutch is a biggy. I'd change the clutch slave cylinder along with it. Search the K-Bike forum for a few good lists of things that need occasional tending to.

I miss mine. But at 650 lbs eventually got old.

I don't know any history, I just saw it advertised locally and it looks like a good value. The ad says it's had by the book maintenance, and knowing bmw owner's I don't doubt it. Will ask about the clutch, I know my way around a clutch, but would rather not replace it...

When you say driveshaft I assume you are talking splines not final drive? If final drive is a possibility (what a I saying it's a bmw final drive is ALWAYS a possibility...), I really don't want that issue, maybe that ST13 for 300 less ain't so bad, cept it was a cop bike (the ST not the GT)...

K-bike final drives are pretty solid. I had a K100's driveshaft shell its u-joints. I think that had something to do with the rubber isolator going off.

Common big ticket repairs would be the clutch and rear main seal. If those have been done then the bike is probably ready for just about anything. Maybe the bike was maintained by a dealer. Any BMW shop can lookup service history.

My '03 GT has 86k+.

Rear seal, clutch at @62k.

Oil cooler line replaced, it was installed off a bit and rubbed.

Mine runs great. We do mostly 2up long distance.

I'd ride it cross country tomorrow.

Will go many, many miles based on experiences of others and selling them.

Curious about pricing.

Mine has thousands in upgrades, Wilbers for example.

It was priced at 3k even, but its sold, so I'm back to looking. I'd really like to find a reasonable st1100, i loved the one i had.

Sounds like a reasonable price point.

Hope you find a deal for summer riding.

The '03s had the IABS (servo), right???

The whizzies yes.

F is F/R, R is R.

Still stop great after all these years.

it is annoying, the sound. but, over several bikes, i have found it to be reliable and very hard stopping, just do not neglect the maintenance. my 03 rs seems very less prone to trying to tip over than my 04 rt did for some reason. point those wheels straight when stopping.

Looking at buying one. My last BMW was a 00' type 249, not looking to get into that mess again. Does the k surge, lose transmissions and final drives at 60-80k like the type 249 did? Please no apolagista's, I need to know, my cash has never been more harder earned than it is now. Is the switchgear an issue? After unloading my type 249, the only bmw I would buy was an aprilia, just saying...

I would have to say that a K1300 is a far better bike than the 1200. To be blunt the 1200 was released "too soon" & there are mechanical & fuelling issues. BMW gave the 1200 to Ricardo Engineering in the UK to re-engineer & it really is a different engine. It's not extra power, but rather it's properly developed. I'd not contemplate a 1200 but I'd have a good 1300 any day.

Martyn,

Sorry, but he is aksing about an '03, a "flying brick" not the post '05 "wedge" version of a K 1200.

Totally different bikes.

The bricks were produced over 25 years and I've seen them with 300,000+ miles on them.

Best wishes.

My 03 K12RS got a clutch at around 60K. I paid the local dealer to do it with no regrets. It has 70k now. Not riding much these days.

I change the oil.

I change the brakes.

I change the tires.

It just keeps running awesome.

My rear seal has a very slow seep. It is never low on oil so I don't worry about it.

I have a leak at the valve cover on the front of the engine but that is more cosmetic too. It was there when I bought the bike used in 04.

I like the whiny brake sound. It's cool.

There is a lot I love about the bike:

Integrated antilock brakes, cruise control, lots of torque and power.

Its heavy in turns compared to the R bikes, but I can throw it around.

I have never once regretted buying this bike and have absolutely no excuse to upgrade it. The GT you are looking at is even better for keeping the air off of you.

I say snag it and hope they did the clutch.