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BMW AM/FM Radio Fuse


grant_quinlan

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grant_quinlan

Morning everyone.

 

Yesterday I installed a New StarCom1 Intercom system onto the my R1150RT . . . while I was running the speaker audio hookup wiring up under the fairing the Radio Stopped working.

 

I have visually checked the fuse's within the Fuse Box under the seat, but as it still has BMW Supplied fuse's I haven't checked them with a Multi-meter, but the BMW supplied fuses still look intact.

 

Is there any other Radio related fuses I need to check apart from in the Fuse Box or any plugs I may have disturbed while running the hookup wiring?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Cheers Grant

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Morning Grant

 

Depends on:

 

Who installed the radio-- if the radio is factory/dealer installed then you only have the 2 radio fuses in the under-seat fuse box.

 

If the radio was installed after purchase then anything is possible as to where the radio power was picked up.

 

In a lot of cases the under-seat fuses look good to the eye but can have a small internal break & not pass any current. (do check them with a meter)

 

You didn't knock the antenna connection loose did you?

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grant_quinlan

G'day dirtrider,

 

I'm near 100% positive that the Radio in my RT is a BM Factory Fitted radio.

 

In the Service and Technical Booklet it says the Radio fuse is in the No#8 position. I'm going to purchase a full set of replacement fuses today and change over thre original fuses so checking with a multi meter will be easier.

 

With regards to the Radio Security Code, do you know if the radio information display is illuminated even when the Security Code Needs to be entered? At the moment the Radio Information Display is not illuminated at all, thus why I thought there may had been a 2nd fuse somewhere.

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Evening Grant

 

There are actually 2 fuses for the radio, fuse 8 is ign switch power & fuse 3 is the radio keep alive (full time 12v).

 

I really can't remember on the security code vs display function as I haven't owned an 1150RT with a radio in years (even on the 1150RT's that I had with radios I removed the radio as I liked the storage area way more than a radio that I couldn't hear at speed).

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grant_quinlan

G'day again dirtrider,

 

I'll be commuting about 190klm to work twice a week on the bike, so it's nice being able to listen to the radio or music while riding to work and home again, so am rather keen on getting the radio working correctly again.

 

So Well . . . on Saturday I replaced all the original fuses with new fuses and bingo . . . had the radio working for about 40min before it died again . . . but while it was working and with the intercom fitted I could hear the radio via the helmet intercom speakers fine at hwy speed of 100klm.

 

Two thing I have notice, most of the fuses on my RT are only 4amp (as indicated in my service information book) apart from the fuel pump and the Motronic circuits which are 10amp, and if Fuse 3 supports the 2x Accessories Power outlets and the radio in the one circuit . . . 4amp seems a little low unless the 2x Accessories Power outlets utilize relays as well.

 

Have notice following a google search, in some images of the R1150RT Fuse Box, Fuse 8 (Radio) is shown as a 15amp Fuse, while Fuse 3 is shown as a 15amp Fuse as well.

 

Was considering replacing fuses 3 & 8 with a 10amp fuses and see if that alleviates the problem of the radio dieing.

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Morning Grant

 

What year 1150RT are you working with?

 

On most 1150RT's fuse #3 should be 15 amp & fuse 8 should be 4 amp) not all the fuse box cover lables are correct on the fuse ratings)

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grant_quinlan

My RT is a 08/2002 Build.

 

I'm at work ATM so don't have the owners manual in front of me, but off the top of my head, in the Owners Technical Service Manual the fuses slots where rated something like this:

 

Fuse 1 - 4amp: Instrument Cluster

Fuse 2 - 4amp: Park Light

Fuse 3 - 4amp: Rider Information Display

Fuse 4 - 7.5amp: Horn

Fuse 5 - 10amp: Motronic, Diagnostic Plug

Fuse 6 - 10amp: Fuel Pump

Fuse 7 - 4amp: Heated Handlebar Grips

Fuse 8 - 4amp: Radio

Fuse 9 - Unused

Fuse 10 - 15amp: Fog Lights

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Morning Grant

 

A LOT of 1150 BMW fuse info is incorrect on the fuse #3 rating.

 

I'm not sure if it was a major screw-up on BMW's part OR that the 4 amp was/is correct for early bikes that came without on-board power sockets & the fuse data was not updated to 15 amp when power sockets were included.

 

In any case-- if you have on-board power socket (or power sockets) then fuse #3 needs to be 15 amp.

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grant_quinlan

DR that's the view I'm starting to get after google searching RT1150RT Fuse Box Layouts/Diagrams.

 

As you have stated, Fuse 3 seems to come up a lot as a 15amp Fuse on most Fuse Box sources of information.

 

Will have a play around tomorrow once I get home and see how things go after changing Fuse 3 to a 15amp fuse, hopefully I get it sorted so I have radio for the 190klm ride to work Friday morning :-)

 

Edited by grant_quinlan
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grant_quinlan

Now I’ve done the following a couple of times now, each time it has been the same.

 

I pulled all the fuses from the fuse box and replaced them straight after. Radio switched on from the radio’s On/Off Button but not by the bikes Ignition Key when put into the “Lock” Key Position, and after 30min the Radio switched off by itself and could not be switched back on again by the Radio’s On/Off Volume Nob.

 

Radio Storage Memory is lost each time, which makes me think the 12v constant supply may not be so constant.

 

I was going to try and remove the radio tomorrow and check and see if that 30amp Fuse at the back of the Radio has blown.

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I pulled all the fuses from the fuse box and replaced them straight after. Radio switched on from the radio’s On/Off Button but not by the bikes Ignition Key when put into the “Lock” Key Position, and after 30min the Radio switched off by itself and could not be switched back on again by the Radio’s On/Off Volume Nob.

 

Radio Storage Memory is lost each time, which makes me think the 12v constant supply may not be so constant.

 

I was going to try and remove the radio tomorrow and check and see if that 30amp Fuse at the back of the Radio has blown.

 

Morning Grant

 

It does sort of sound like the 12v constant is not getting to the radio.

 

Not radio related but IF you removed fuse #5 or disconnected the battery you really should then do a new TPS re-learn on a BMW 1150 bike.

 

To Do a TPS re-learn--

 

(with choke OFF)

 

 

*Remove fuse #5 for about 3 minutes, then re-install the fuse.

 

Then

 

*Switch on the ignition. (do not start engine)

 

Then

 

*Without starting the engine, fully open & close the throttle twice so that the Fueling Computer can register the throttle-valve position.

 

Then

 

*Switch off the ignition.

 

That's it, that re-teaches the TPS where closed & open throttle is.

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All sorted.

 

When I was installing the Intercom I took the on/off switch power for the intercom from the Park Light circuit at the fuse.

 

To provide a little extra wire length to play while doing the hook up, I cut the retaining tape around the bundle of wires under the fuse bank in the fuse box and it seems I may have accidentally cut through one of the wires as well . . . and guess which wire it was . . . the Radio's Constant 12v Supply of all the wires I could had cut :-(

 

on the up side, lucky it was only the radio power supply and not a wire that would have disabled the RT all together .

6614.jpg.5bea30327c6763d179266a0ba87ec0fc.jpg

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And the little sucker down below.

 

All repaired now, repair was the use of a Telephone Line Crimp Terminal . . . end result radio and intercom audio is all working as it should be again . . . so I'm a happy rider again :-)

6616.jpg.3cb819a725459831f397bc17a6f1e437.jpg

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