IABS light and warning light on, rear brake light on, no speedometer

2004 R1200 CL

I am attaching link to a very lengthy description of the problem and the troubleshooting

The executive summary is

Brake light is always on (both filaments)

Speedometer does not work

so IABS (servo unit in 2004) light flashes fast and warning light is on

Test cycle does not complete so no servo brakes

Troubleshoot steps

Tested both break switches and work fine. Front shows 3.85 V and goes to 0 when pressed. Rear same voltage and goes to 0.

When bike is with no ignition key on, both switches show 1.4 V. (is this ok)

Blue ABS relay under tank is ok, tested and clicked and tested two other connectors of relay and they have Voltage

I tested the speed sensors by pinching the cables before they get to the wheel. I understand that will only tell me volts being sent to the sensor, but not if the electromagnetic coil is working correctly. Nevertheless...

In the back sensor, I got 0V when off and 9.95V when switch on. On the front was weird. With switch off I got 2.3v....and with switch on got the 9 something volts. Seems is not ok. Problem is front sensor plug is under cockpit (so very difficult to reach and replace)

The complete story with pictures etc is at

http://www.chromeheads.org/discus/messages/6/589550.html?1477523244]Chromeheads Forum: R1200 cl 2004 Abs flashing fast and stop light on

If you want to read it all, be sure you also go through archives as the thread is new but has lots of inputs and pictures.

Morning mayojuaf

I will try to answer your main concerns below in red.

I did a quick read on your link below but I just don't have time to poke around in the archives on that site so if something ELSE important was in the archives then either put a link here or re-post the main points.

2004 R1200 CL

 

The executive summary is--

 

Brake light is always on (both filaments)--This is an unusual failure but could point to an open brake switch circuit or a failed brake controller.

 

Speedometer does not work--This is somewhat common with a failed brake controller.

 

so IABS (servo unit in 2004) light flashes fast and warning light is on--This doesn't tell us much except a major failure.

 

Test cycle does not complete so no servo brakes--could be switch input, or speed sensor input, or failed controller, or ?????.

 

Troubleshoot steps

 

Tested both break switches and work fine. Front shows 3.85 V and goes to 0 when pressed. Rear same voltage and goes to 0.

When bike is with no ignition key on, both switches show 1.4 V. (is this ok)--This ONLY tests the switches themselves & tests power to the switches--it would appear that you don't have an open in the high side or low side between the switch & the controller. I can't comment on the 1.4V with ignition switch off as I haven't ever measured that on a good working system.

 

Blue ABS relay under tank is ok, tested and clicked and tested two other connectors of relay and they have Voltage--This is the relay that flashes the dash light so really has no effect on ABS controller operation.

 

I tested the speed sensors by pinching the cables before they get to the wheel. I understand that will only tell me volts being sent to the sensor, but not if the electromagnetic coil is working correctly. Nevertheless...

In the back sensor, I got 0V when off and 9.95V when switch on. On the front was weird. With switch off I got 2.3v....and with switch on got the 9 something volts. Seems is not ok. Problem is front sensor plug is under cockpit (so very difficult to reach and replace)--I don't understand what PINCHING is?? The only good way to test the speed sensors is to unplug them at the connectors then measure the resistance-- and/or put your meter on the A/C setting then spin the wheels & measure A/C output with a spinning wheel. A wheel sensor can be bad & not keep the ABS system from running the servo brakes (you just won't have ABS available) but a shorted sensor can effect the controller enough to prevent servo function.

You seem to be at the point that you REALLY need a GS-911 or to get that bike hooked to a dealer diagnostic computer.

A stuck brake switch will cause the same failure on my 04 RT except for the speedometer failure. R1150RT's have a mechanical speedometer. I would check the brake switches if it were mine. Make sure the brake pedal and lever are returning fully to the rest position. Even try pushing the brake lever away from the handlebar and pulling up on the pedal. It just takes a little.

If the switch is stuck WHEN THE IGNITION IS TURNED ON it will not complete the self test.

Thank you guys for your input!

Sorry for the "pinching" poor description. I just exposed the two wires (slowly cut the plastic insulation and exposed the copper wires) that go to the front sensors), then I measures voltage between both wires.

The rear sensor connector is easy to locate close to gas tank on right side, but the front wire goes into the cockpit so I could not find that connector. That is why I just exposed the copper and measured voltage before the speed sensor wire disappeared under the cockpit

the idea of spinning the wheel and measure voltage is great. I wonder why I got voltage in that cable when I just turn on the switch...

I guess I need to measure volt with switch off while spinning the wheel.

Fortunately my GS911 is arriving tomorrow

Evening mayojuaf

When your GS-911 arrives be sure to clear the trapped brake codes then start over. Your testing might have caused some malfunctions that are not part of the original failure.

I got the gs911 and is telling me

Here are the results of scan

ECU Info Report

GS-911 version: 1609.1 Datapack version: 6.1

Serial Number: GS1 005 178

Firmware version: 0.251-0.144 Datapack version: 0.127

Registered to: juan mayorga

Date: 10/30/2016 Time: 11:38:09 AM

________________________________________

Motronic MA2.4

Motorcycle Variant: R1200C ECE+US,LL=900

Part No.: 7671709

Bosch Part Number: 0261207870

ECU Software Number: 1037368115

ECU coding variant: 1

ECU program version: 25000100

Manufacturer: Bosch

HWOE No.: 61380786

Idle Actuator: Yes

Emissions control type: Lambda

Fault Codes Report

GS-911 version: 1609.1 Datapack version:6.1 Serial Number: GS1 005 178 Registered to: juan mayorga

Date: 10/30/2016 Time: 11:38:57 AM

821: Hall sensor 1, no signal – this fault will always occur if engine not running or engine not cranked before reading Fault codes.

This fault occurred 0 times.

The fault is currently present.

901: Hall sensor 2, no signal – this fault will always occur if engine not running or engine not cranked before reading Fault codes.

This fault occurred 0 times.

The fault is currently present.

5382: Idle Switch, open circuit since ignition ON.

This fault occurred 0 times.

The fault is currently present.

When I try to run any of de ABS tests I get the No response from the controller

 

 

When I try to run any of de ABS tests I get the No response from the controller

Afternoon mayojuaf

Have you verified that fuse 15 is good, I'm not sure IF that keeps the ABS controller from working but it is a power input? (Verify that fuse 15 is not just looked-at but is ohmed-out to verify that the fuse is not open inside).

I don't work on many 1200CL's so can't really give you a (I have seen before)-- I guess if I were working on that bike I would first use the BMW wiring schematic to verify that the ABS controller has full time B+ power (red wire) & has ignition switch ON power B+ (green wire), then verify all grounds (brown wires) have continuity to ground.

With your GS-911 not talking to the ABS controller that usually points to one of the controller power inputs open, or an open ground, or a failed controller.

Dirtrider, thanks for responding. I just saw your input because the system did not send me message of response... sorry

Just checked fuse 15, is ok and 0 resistance.

Checked power at the IABS connector and have 12v pin 2 and also switch on volts on pin 3

when you say check all brown wires you mean check ohms from brown to say battery ground and confirm there is no or almost no resistance (0 ohms)?

 

when you say check all brown wires you mean check ohms from brown to say battery ground and confirm there is no or almost no resistance (0 ohms)?

Afternoon mayojuaf

Yes, check pins (1), (28), (29) --those should be brown wires & go to ground.

They should show close to 0 ohms from the pins at brake controller plug to chassis ground & to battery (-) post.

i also tested at iabs connector pins 39 and 40 for front brake switch, and for rear brake switch 7 and 41 . Both are ok 0 ohms when not press and infinite when pressed handle or foot brake

I have totally disassembled the front fairing to reach to front brake speed sensor plug.

If I measure ohms between the two pins of the sensor connector it should give infinite ohms, right?

looking at wire schematic, in iabs connector, pins 34-36 are for rear speed sensor and 33-35 for the front one. If I check ohms between 33-35 and then 34-36 I should get also infinite resistance, right?

then and last i should try to spin the wheel and measure volts on plugs and on iabs connector pins 33-35 and 34-36...

if that gives ok, then is the module IABS that is bad....?

i also tested at iabs connector pins 39 and 40 for front brake switch, and for rear brake switch 7 and 41 . Both are ok 0 ohms when not press and infinite when pressed handle or foot brake

 

I have totally disassembled the front fairing to reach to front brake speed sensor plug.

 

If I measure ohms between the two pins of the sensor connector it should give infinite ohms, right?

 

looking at wire schematic, in iabs connector, pins 34-36 are for rear speed sensor and 33-35 for the front one. If I check ohms between 33-35 and then 34-36 I should get also infinite resistance, right?

 

then and last i should try to spin the wheel and measure volts on plugs and on iabs connector pins 33-35 and 34-36...

 

if that gives ok, then is the module IABS that is bad....?

Evening mayojuaf

I don't have the wheel speed sensor resistance measurement for the 1200CL but you don't want open & you don't want shorted. I would imagine somewhere between 125 ohms to 1000 ohms would be logical. The front & rear should be close in ohms. (those sensors are just a basic passive coil of wire)

You can put your meter on AC scale -- 20 volts scale (or lower if your meter has it) then spin the wheels. You should see an AC voltage across the 2 pins (depends on wheel speed)

If the grounds test out good then it is sort of pointing to a failed ABS controller. Bad wheel sensor or sensors should not keep the GS-911 from talking to the controller.

I have an extra front wheel and its axle. can I measure v if i put it on a stand, turn it rapidly and get the sensor close to sensor rings?

I have an extra front wheel and its axle. can I measure v if i put it on a stand, turn it rapidly and get the sensor close to sensor rings?

Sure-- if you can maintain the proper sensor air gap.

You can also place most (plugged in & turned on) regular 110 volt soldering gun tip near the sensor & that should generate a voltage output in the sensor. Not sure what the generated voltage would be but it usually equates to around 45 mph if done with the sensor hooked up to bike & key turned on. (won't work with DC soldering guns, only 60 Hz AC guns)

Dirtrider, the alternative of the soldering gun is amazing! I only have a side stand so can not test the sensors on the bike by rotating the wheel. What you mention will save me a lot of work testing the sensors.

So I can just unscrew the end side of the two sensors (back and front) clip the meeter (A/C) to prongs on connectors in other side of the line and just get the tip of the solder close to sensor?

will that work with my sensor of the 2004 R1200 cl?

To test the reliability of the cables, can I then go and test A/c at pins 33-35 and 34-36 of the IABS module Connector?

Morning mayojuaf

I haven't ever tried it on the 1200CL ( I work on very few CL's)

It should work if your soldering gun produces an AC buzz (I believe most AC soldering guns do)--Mine does anyhow.

Try both sensors as the chance of BOTH being bad at the same time is very low. If neither work with the soldering gun then your soldering gun probably doesn't produce the correct signal to use as a test.

I dont have a soldering gun but probably need one for the house. What is the brand of your gun so I can buy the same brand and model?

Thanks again!!!!!

Dirtrider, thanks for helping me again...

the part number for sensor is 34522333484 and says it is same for all 2004 , R1150 RT R Etc

I tested the sensor cables for the two in the bike and the one I bought and when I connect the two prongs of the end of the speed sensor, i get infinite resistance between these two prongs

If I turn the switch on in bike, the modulator send 12 V to the sensor. I tested that in the plug that connects the cables from modulator to the speed sensor.

what am I doing wrong...

Dirtrider, thanks for helping me again...

 

the part number for sensor is 34522333484 and says it is same for all 2004 , R1150 RT R Etc

 

I tested the sensor cables for the two in the bike and the one I bought and when I connect the two prongs of the end of the speed sensor, i get infinite resistance between these two prongs

 

If I turn the switch on in bike, the modulator send 12 V to the sensor. I tested that in the plug that connects the cables from modulator to the speed sensor.

 

what am I doing wrong...

 

 

Afternoon mayojuaf

I really don't know what is happening.

Are you testing the correct cables (definitely going to the wheel sensors)???

Are you on the correct resistance scale on your meter? (not on voltage, or amp, or??)- what does the meter read with the two meter lead probes touching each other? How about measured across a taillight bulb?

Are you testing the cables/sensors with the them UNPLUGGED from the controller.

Dirtrider, thanks for helping me again...

I found this in another forum that maybe explains some of what is happening.

my R1200 cl from 2004 has the Gen3 sensors:

The voltage is not AC, it is DC with a varying pulse width. Note that the polarity on the pins is important for correct function.

The ABS2 sensors a a wound coil and will output an AC signal of varying frequency.

The ABS3 sensors are electronic

The sensor plugs are keyed different so the 2 generations cannot be interchanged

Here is the forum

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/speed-sensor-feed-with-12v.1184778/#post-30726957

The cables I am testing is the end plug of the rear wheel sensor located at the right side of the frame near where the gas tank ends and the seat starts. I did follow the cable all the way so I am sure is the speed sensor.

With meter in Ohms, when probes are touching it shows 0.00 Ohms.

when i connect the meter to the prongs of the end of sensor I get 2400 ohms on the 2000K ohms scale (close to infinite)

The white part of the plug the end that goes to the wheel and where I measure infinite ohms.

The other "black and white" end of the plug is the one that comes from modulator and shows 12v when switch of bike is on

I have received the below as a method to test the IABS III servo speed sensor.

The challenge is that most info we have in forums is for the speed sensors of the ABS II

The system is not allowing me to upload a picture but the process is as follow

I will use an extra wheel to measure if sensors are good as my bike has only side stand, can not spin wheel so can not measure directly on the bike

So here is the recommended instruction:

The sensor has two pins (prongs) that are labeled 1 and 2 (you can see that looking inside the connector with bright light as the numbers are small)

you need a resistor of 1000 ohms of 1/2 or higher watts.

You need a meter that can measure also hz ($60 ones ussually have that function with the standard V Ohms for AC and DC)

Then you connect the battery + to pin 2

you connect pin 1 to one side of the resistor and battery - to the other side of the resistor

You connect the two meter probes to each side of the resistor to measure hz

you should see from 0 to 120 Hz depending on how fast you spin the wheel.

Here is the forum link

http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...h-12v.1184778/

I have been told also to use a DSO Coral meter , here is the forum link

http://forum.hexcode.co.za/forum/ind...c,1506.15.html

let me know if anybody has any comments

Done. To keep somewhere for others to use if need to test sensors for IaBS 2004 models

The above test using a resistor did not work for me.

Bought a lift so could test both wheels by spinning and measuring the AC volts

You need an oscilloscope (i bought one for 50 bucks)DSO Coral 112A

build a bridge in the connection where the end of the speed sensor cable (not at the wheel :-)) connects to the cable that goes to ABS modulator. In my R1200cl 2004, the rear connector is at the right where the end of the tank is.

The front one you can only access by removing the fairing. (there is a link in the forum to do that) The connections is above the lights. The red alligator of oscilloscope goes on pin 2 , the black in pin 1.

You need to put oscilloscope in AC, at 0.5 V, 20 ms and you get this wave.

here is the link to the conversation I was having on another 2 forum

http://forum.hexcode.co.za/forum/index.php/topic,1506.msg6193.html#msg6193

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/speed-sensor-feed-with-12v.1184778/page-4

So according to the ones who know what they are talking about

6 things to cause ABS failure. It comes from the gs forum but is applicable to 2004 CL

1- Lever or pedal failing to travel fully back to the correct position. This is usually caused by the hand guard preventing the front brake lever from fully extending or a pebble or twig preventing the brake pedal from returning to its up most position. An easy way to tell that this is your problem is if your brake light is always be on. Notice, however, that it is possible to pull the lever sufficient for the ABS system to detect it, but not enough for the light to come on. This can be a confusing situation.

2- Sensors. If either of your brake sensors fail the brake light will stay on. Severed wires, dirty sensors or melted sensors can cause this failure. If your speedo works then your rear sensor is definitely OK. Make sure your front sensor is clean and wire is not severed.

3- Fluid levels. Tip overs can cause fluid to leak out of the ABS pump under the gas tank. Pull off the gas tank and top off each of the circuits. This will fix a fluid level related failure.

4 - Microswitch problems. There is a little tiny switch under the front brake lever and next to the rear brake pedal. You should hear an audible click when you activate either. This switch can fail although it is rare. If your problem is not 1,2 or 3 then this is probably your problem. If the switch is bad your brake light will not activate from the bad switch.

5- Low battery voltage. This is a the common cause of ABS failure on the 11xx versions of ABS. Usually the ABS will start working normally when the alternator gets the charge back up to normal. The ABS versions on the R1200GS are not as senstive to low voltage issues and voltage related failures are very rare.

6- Bad pump unit. Very rare. In fact I have not heard of one failing on the R1200GS yet. There have been a few replaced but these were diagnoses errors and real problem was one of the four items above.

I tested all of the above but the dreaded IABS Servo. that is the one that costs $2,000 and that they say can be converted to non ABS . Could not find anyone doing it in a 2004 R1200CL

so I won the battle on learning how to test switches and sensors, but lost the war of fixing my IABS issue.

I tested all of the above but the dreaded IABS Servo. that is the one that costs $2,000 and that they say can be converted to non ABS . Could not find anyone doing it in a 2004 R1200CL

 

Afternoon Mayojuaf

You can convert it to a non ABS bike but if your speedometer doesn't work now it won't work after the conversion either.

haaaa, that is because the IABS is the one sending the signal to speedometer.....no way to bypass the IABS module...

But at least my stop lights will work?

Today I disassembled part of the IABS modulator. Took out te pressure valves? to see if they were stuck. Also took out the filters (one of them was very dirty) clean the best I could (swallow some brake fluid but not tat bad )

I bled again the system thoroughly, wheel and control circuits. Fluid was fine but still flush it to get fluid running...(first time was somehow dirty)

So, the good news is that when I take it to the dealer and if he says the IABS module is shot, I will believe him ...

maybe they do some magic and is NOT the IABS... (i have always been an optimist)

all that have responded my call for help, thank you for helping me here. I learned a lot.

I am not sure I am ready to bypass the servo as I have not seen instructions for a R1200 cl . Only for GS or R?

If someone has seen these CL instructions somewhere, please let me know?

Thanks again

and if you are going through Houston, send me an email and will be glad to invite for a drink!