Stuck in First

I had the RID off my 04 RT to do some maintenance and now it's not displaying the correct gear position.

When neutral is selected, the green light is on (the indicator panel), but the RID indicates 1st gear.

Actually, when 1st gear or neutral is selected on the tranny, the RID only indicates 1st gear.

thanks,

RPG

Morning Rick

Assuming that the trans switch has not been messed with then the usual cause of the RID indicating incorrectly is one or more of the wire circuits between the trans switch & the RID is open or shorted.

Are you sure that the RID connector is FULLY plugged in? If so then maybe unplug it then make sure that one of the terminals in the RID connector was not pushed back when you inserted it last time.

The RID gear range is controlled by 3 wires & a ground (basically by what wires, or combination or wires, are grounded in the trans switch)

If you can't easily find the issue just post back or PM me & I will look at my old notes on the 1150 RIDs. Someplace I have jotted down what wire or wires going to the RID are grounded or open for what gear range to be shown on the RID.

+1 on what dirtrider said.

This is not normal, the display is only a readout of the actual gearbox switch. I have seen the connectors of the RID and others in that connector cluster getting oxidation on the metal pins.

I guess it has to do with heat from the oil radiator and cold from the outside, in time, making the dash frame and connectors oxide.

I would spray some contact cleaner and use a toothbrush on the connectors.

Dan.

Morning Rick

 

Assuming that the trans switch has not been messed with then the usual cause of the RID indicating incorrectly is one or more of the wire circuits between the trans switch & the RID is open or shorted.

 

Are you sure that the RID connector is FULLY plugged in? If so then maybe unplug it then make sure that one of the terminals in the RID connector was not pushed back when you inserted it last time.

 

The RID gear range is controlled by 3 wires & a ground (basically by what wires, or combination or wires, are grounded in the trans switch)

 

If you can't easily find the issue just post back or PM me & I will look at my old notes on the 1150 RIDs. Someplace I have jotted down what wire or wires going to the RID are grounded or open for what gear range to be shown on the RID.

I'm pretty certain that the RID plug is inserted completely. At least the two locking tabs are closing. Strange, since I only removed it and cleaned the male and female pins. I know the female pins on the RID side are in good shape, but I'll check the male pins on the other connector this evening.

Appreciate it,

RPG

I'm pretty certain that the RID plug is inserted completely. At least the two locking tabs are closing. Strange, since I only removed it and cleaned the male and female pins. I know the female pins on the RID side are in good shape, but I'll check the male pins on the other connector this evening.

 

Appreciate it,

 

RPG

Morning Rick

It doesn't happen often but there is the possibility that when you plugged the connector in that

it pushed one of the terminals back into the connector so it isn't now making proper contact.

Thanks D.R.

I'll check for that.

RPG

So this is a little strange.

I did some further testing this evening. With the RID disconnected from the connector, I measure the following voltages on the male pins of the connector, with the ignition on, engine not running. Kill switch in Run position. Sidestand Up.

Pin #

1 Yellow/Blue 0vdc

2 Yellow/Black 0vdc

3 Yellow/White 0vdc

4 Brown (ground)

5 Red/White 12.6vdc

6 Green/Yellow 12.6vdc

7 Violet 4vdc (Oil temp sensor voltage I'm guessing from cold engine

8 Violet/Yellow 0vdc (fuel tank level)

If I toggle through all 6 gears plus neutral, none of the voltages change on pins 1-3. It's always 0vdc.

If I plug in the RID to the connector, power on, engine not running in neutral. Green neutral light on, the RID indicates 1st gear and there is about 8vdc on pin 3 (Yellow/White)

A HIGH on pin 3 should indicate gear position 1.

Does the RID need to be plugged in to measure pin 1-3 voltages? I see on the schematic that pin 6 on the RID (Green/Yellow) shares power to the Motornic unit. (Pin 1,3DENTL)

thanks much,

RPG

Morning Rick

You shouldn't be looking for voltage on 1,2, or 3 as the only voltage you should see on those is bleed through voltage from the internal RID circuitry. That is very highly resisted voltage so will vary all over the map by the impedance of your voltmeter (pretty useless info actually)

The system works by the trans switch pulling 1, 2, or 3 (or 1&2 or 1&3 or 1&2&3 or 2&3, etc to low (ground through the brown #4 wire.

To do a quick check-- with RID connector unplugged check the resistance of the terminals in the (harness plug side) connector from 1, 2, & 3 to #4 in each trans range. Depending of trans gear you should see continuity to (#4) ground on 1 2 & 3 or 1&2 or 2&3 or 1&3.

You should also be able to get the rid to change indicated gear ranges by unplugging the trans switch connector, then plugging the rid connector in at the rear of RID, THEN using 3 jumper wires with small pins to insert in cavity 1,2 & 3 of the rid connector.

By grounding 1, 2, or 3 or 1&2 or 2&3 or 1&3 to chassis ground you should see the RID change indicated gear ranges.

Or with rid connector disconnected-- send 12v to pin 5 & pin 6 on back of RID then ground pin 4 to chassis ground or battery (-) -- now try grounding 1 2 or 3 or 1&2 or 2& 3 or 1 & 3 to chassis ground, again, you should see the RID change indicated gear ranges.

If you don't see it working per above then verify that fuse 3 is good & that brown wire (to #4 pin) has good continuity to chassis ground & that pin #6 has (& maintains) 12v on it throughout the testing.

If I get out to my shop later I will try to dig up the pin 1-2-3 or combination of 1-2-3 that needs to see low (ground) for each gear position indication on the RID (but you shouldn't really need that to just check RID operation as you should quickly observe what combinations of pins 1-2-3 going to pin #4 shows what RID gear indication)

I sure hope the above makes sense to you-- I read it & re-read it a couple of times & it seems to make sense to me but don't be shy, if something doesn't make sense to you in the above just post back here & ask me to clarify it.

Afternoon Rick

Check your PM's-- I sent you a position vs RID input schematic. (please destroy when finished using)

Sorry I can't post it online here as it came from BMW proprietary information.

I've been playing with this off and on and not having much success. I'm still having the problem where the RID will not display the correct gear relative to the selected transmission gear.

I've created a list of signals in the attached Excel screenshot. What's bizarre to me, other than the incorrect gear being displayed is the voltages seen on the 3 signal wires going to the RID.

Yel/Blue, pin 1

Yel/Black, pin 2

Yel/White, pin 3

I would think that the gear selector switch would transfer full battery voltage or not. Instead, 7.8vdc is seen on the various signal lines coming into the RID. Unless all the contacts are dirty in the selector switch, this doesn't seem right.

To refresh. All I did a couple months ago was remove the RID to get to the dash to replace some lights in the tach/speedo with LED's.

Thanks for your help,

RPG

Just wondering.

Is it apart where you can put the regular bulbs back instead of LED's?

Sure DR will say it doesn't matter, I'm not an electrical whiz, but was curious.

Seen weird stuff when owners switched ro LED's, sometimes.

DR, feel free to explain why it hasn't an effect here, or just say so.

But there were times that going back to OEM made "broken" stuff work again.

Hope you sort it out.

Morning Rick

I don't have time right now to spend the time to build a correct function matrix but at first glance it looks like your problem is in pin (1) yel/blue wire circuit as that circuit is the ONLY ONE not being pulled low as you shift through the gears.

Your spread sheet shows 4 shift positions where pins pulled low are the same (that can't be for correct operation) but the pin (1) yel/blue is NEVER pulled low.

To me (at a quick glance anyhow) your problem seems to be in the inability of the trans gear indicator switch to pull pin (1) yel/blue low in ANY range.

Your measurement shows pin (1) having RID output voltage so it appears that the RID is capable of using pin (1) but for some reason the trans gear indicator switch can't pull it low.

So my (quick first look/quick guess ) guess from afar would be that you have an open in the yel/blue wire between the RID & the trans gear position indicator switch.

You might see if the 1, 2 , 3 pin circuits are pulled to low AT THE TRANS as you shift by unplugging the gear indicator switch pig tail plug then placing your meter on ohms & measuring between the brown wire and pins 1, 2, 3 as you shift through the gears.

Then plug the gear indicator switch back in & move up to the (unplugged) RID & measure the same pins 1, 2 , 3 at the rid connector.

If pin (1) is pulled low at the trans but not at the disconnect RID end then you know you have an open in the yel/blue wire.

If pin isn't pulled low at either end then I would suspect the trans gear indicator switch as the problem.

At least the above is my preliminary guess formulated before my second cup of coffee & trying look interested in the engineering meeting that I am sitting in now.

hey D.R., good morning and thanks for the immediate feedback. I believe the connector is on the left side of the frame (above the left cylinder) so I'll dig out my good ol Fluke after work tonight.

Thanks so much,

RPG

Morning Rick

Check your PM's for a matrix.

A solution to my problem:

It was the GEAR POSITION INDICATOR SWITCH.

I replaced with a new one and all is well.

FWIW, the switch is easily accessed by dropping the muffler and compressing the clip that retains it in the rear of the transmission.

The electrical connector is on the left side under the tank.

Many thanks to D.R. (once again), who always finds time to help us all with these strange issues.

RPG