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Blinking ABS lights


mabednarz

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1997 R1100RT

 

Just recently, I noticed that I am getting the dreaded alternating ABS lights. I wait the usual 8-10 seconds before I start, during that time both lights are blinking simultaneously. Once I start the bike, they start alternating.

 

I am not hearing the kerr-chink sound from the front now when I roll off.

 

What's the fix, how much, and how hard???

Edited by mabednarz
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If they are blinking together each time you start up then the ABS system is resetting itself each time. When you hit the starter the lights are switching to alternating blinks. That is a low-voltage fault. You could try riding the bike about 5 minutes or more, then shut it off and restart it. It should reset and clear with a regular self-test as you pull away. The more complete solution is a fresh battery.

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Once you get a new battery, don't be put off by the random "click-chirp" as you go down the road and or take off from a stop.

 

The self test, We were told is totally random when it occurs.

 

The regular use of a "Battery Tender Jr" type maintenance charger can double the life of a new, quality battery.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Tri750
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On my R1100RT (2001) the self-test repeats during the ride, but only after riding about 10 or 15 minutes from any prior self-test and then the self-test will only be performed after a stop. The self-test never happens when the bike is rolling faster than about 3-5 mph.

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mabednarz,

 

There is one thing you can do, it is to install a switch for the abs, to turn it off until you get the bike started and then you can turn it on with the alternator producing good voltage and it will do it's bite without any problems. Or you can just live with it, as I do, it is a known problem with the 1100's.

 

Mine does the same thing, and I just do a restart once it gets warmed up a little and it does it's thing without a hitch. I replaced my battery and after a couple of months it started doing it again randomly, so I don't worry about it. You can even restart once rolling down the road and it will fix itself. On a rolling start you still need to come to a stop so it can finish the bite check.

 

The ABS bite on the R1100 is very sensitive to voltage drop.

Edited by SAS
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  • 2 months later...

If the ABS II resets itself each time it does it self-check, what is the purpose of doing a reset with a wire and the diagnostic connector under the seat? Is the latter a more complete reset?

 

I just recently went through a series of low voltage faults caused by a draggy starter. Once the starter was replaced, the low voltage faults went away. Voltage while the starter is turning is now 10+, so no faults. I personally would like to see the voltage higher when cranking in order to fire the engine quicker.

Edited by Roger C
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For a full reading on ABS fault codes you should read Anton's web page on this as well as his other writings.

 

Anton's ABS Faults page

 

Roger - you question about why a hard reset - Only the low voltage fault code is self resetting. All of the other fault codes are persistent. Once the other types of faults occur, they remain in the ABS and you will get the alternating ABS lights as soon as you turn the ignition key. They can only be removed using the hard reset. Note that this pertains to ABS-II, not to the later ABS units which I believe are self resetting at every key On.

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1997 R1100RT

 

Just recently, I noticed that I am getting the dreaded alternating ABS lights. I wait the usual 8-10 seconds before I start, during that time both lights are blinking simultaneously. Once I start the bike, they start alternating.

 

I am not hearing the kerr-chink sound from the front now when I roll off.

 

What's the fix, how much, and how hard???

 

Do the ABS relay mod. From what you describe, it looks like it would fix the problem. It is inexpensive and fun to do :D

 

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/ABS_Low_Voltage_Fix.htm

 

The pics don't seem to work, basically you mount a relay in series with wire on pin 15 from the abs connector, and you trigger that relay using the D+ blue wire from the alternator and the bike's ground.

No matter the problems you are having, all oilheads should benefit from this mod, IMHO.

 

Dan.

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Do the ABS relay mod. From what you describe, it looks like it would fix the problem. It is inexpensive and fun to do :D

The pics don't seem to work, basically you mount a relay in series with wire on pin 15 from the abs connector, and you trigger that relay using the D+ blue wire from the alternator and the bike's ground.

No matter the problems you are having, all oilheads should benefit from this mod, IMHO.

 

Morning Dan

 

There is a slight downside to doing this relay mod-- The alternator gets it's initial rotor excitation from the low side of the dash generator bulb.

 

The stock (Gen Light) bulb is barely adequate to get the alternator charging after engine startup without revving the heck out of the engine after startup. By placing more load on the low side of the Gen Light bulb that lowers the initial excitation voltage into the alternator even lower.

 

The relay mod won't keep the alternator from charging but can retard the alternator start-to-charge enough to get a poor cold idle & poor no throttle engine run after start-up.

 

My personal favorite mod for ABS-II re-set after starting is a simple momentary N/C push button switch as it is much easier to install (just cut the green wire to the ABS) & doesn't place load on the alternator initiation circuit. (just push the button to do a quick ABS reboot if the warning lights flash after starting)

 

If doing the ABS relay mod then I suggest also installing a lower resistance dash Gen Light bulb to help with alternator start-charging right after engine start up.

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My personal favorite mod for ABS-II re-set after starting is a simple momentary N/C push button switch as it is much easier to install (just cut the green wire to the ABS) & doesn't place load on the alternator initiation circuit. (just push the button to do a quick ABS reboot if the warning lights flash after starting).

DR: I'm having a trouble visualizing this. Could you provide one of your excellent photos with arrows and explanatory text?

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My personal favorite mod for ABS-II re-set after starting is a simple momentary N/C push button switch as it is much easier to install (just cut the green wire to the ABS) & doesn't place load on the alternator initiation circuit. (just push the button to do a quick ABS reboot if the warning lights flash after starting).

DR: I'm having a trouble visualizing this. Could you provide one of your excellent photos with arrows and explanatory text?

 

Afternoon Selden

 

What are you having trouble with? Is it the relay mod, or the alternator (Gen Light) circuit? Or the switch install?

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Sorry, "this" was ambiguous. I was referring to:

 

My personal favorite mod for ABS-II re-set after starting is a simple momentary N/C push button switch as it is much easier to install (just cut the green wire to the ABS) & doesn't place load on the alternator initiation circuit. (just push the button to do a quick ABS reboot if the warning lights flash after starting)
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Do the ABS relay mod. From what you describe, it looks like it would fix the problem. It is inexpensive and fun to do :D

The pics don't seem to work, basically you mount a relay in series with wire on pin 15 from the abs connector, and you trigger that relay using the D+ blue wire from the alternator and the bike's ground.

No matter the problems you are having, all oilheads should benefit from this mod, IMHO.

 

Morning Dan

 

There is a slight downside to doing this relay mod-- The alternator gets it's initial rotor excitation from the low side of the dash generator bulb.

 

The stock (Gen Light) bulb is barely adequate to get the alternator charging after engine startup without revving the heck out of the engine after startup. By placing more load on the low side of the Gen Light bulb that lowers the initial excitation voltage into the alternator even lower.

 

The relay mod won't keep the alternator from charging but can retard the alternator start-to-charge enough to get a poor cold idle & poor no throttle engine run after start-up.

 

My personal favorite mod for ABS-II re-set after starting is a simple momentary N/C push button switch as it is much easier to install (just cut the green wire to the ABS) & doesn't place load on the alternator initiation circuit. (just push the button to do a quick ABS reboot if the warning lights flash after starting)

 

If doing the ABS relay mod then I suggest also installing a lower resistance dash Gen Light bulb to help with alternator start-charging right after engine start up.

 

Hi DR.

 

I've heard of the relay mod before, and wondered if the momentary switch mod you describe would work just as well. Good to know.

I have a related question: the factory ABS reset switch on the dash doesn't really seem to do anything useful -- just makes the lights stop flashing for 5 mins. :S

Would there be a downside to using that switch as the momentary power cut-off for the ABS system?

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  • 7 months later...
......I just recently went through a series of low voltage faults caused by a draggy starter. Once the starter was replaced, the low voltage faults went away. Voltage while the starter is turning is now 10+, so no faults. I personally would like to see the voltage higher when cranking in order to fire the engine quicker.

 

During a Spring '17 ride I encountered the ABS flashing fault lights after pulling out of a gas station. I returned home and let the RT sit for a few days then rode it again. The bike appeared to reset itself but the problem occurred again after about twenty miles.

 

The RT's existing battery was about three years old so I decided to replace it with an Odyssey PC680 but that didn't help. One thing I noticed in this thread is the "draggy starter" issue because mine tends to remain engaged for a few seconds after the bike turns over.

 

The system was bled two years ago, the brakes work great, and all other systems seem to be fine. I had a local buddy hook up his GS911 to read the fault codes (but don't recall what they were) and he cleared them at the time.

 

So, what to do? Replace the starter? Put electrical tape over the flashing lights? Put a bullet in her and go buy a new GSA?

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During a Spring '17 ride I encountered the ABS flashing fault lights after pulling out of a gas station. I returned home and let the RT sit for a few days then rode it again. The bike appeared to reset itself but the problem occurred again after about twenty miles.

 

The RT's existing battery was about three years old so I decided to replace it with an Odyssey PC680 but that didn't help. One thing I noticed in this thread is the "draggy starter" issue because mine tends to remain engaged for a few seconds after the bike turns over.

 

The system was bled two years ago, the brakes work great, and all other systems seem to be fine. I had a local buddy hook up his GS911 to read the fault codes (but don't recall what they were) and he cleared them at the time.

 

So, what to do? Replace the starter? Put electrical tape over the flashing lights? Put a bullet in her and go buy a new GSA?

 

Morning beemerboy

 

The first thing you need to do is figure out WHAT is causing the lights to flash & what sequence they are flashing in. (we can help you with this but we need a LOT more details about the problem, when it happens, & the light flashing sequence/ together or opposed)

 

You say after riding 20 miles it appeared again (the starter drag wouldn't effect the lights coming on after 20 miles UNLESS the bike was started). Just riding 20 miles points to a different cause of the issue.

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Howdy DR,

 

After riding between 20~25 miles the lights flash alternately yet the braking system works fine. I'll return home and park the bike for days or weeks (hooked up to a battery tender) which seems to reset the ABS, take it out for a ride and the situation repeats itself. I'm not sure what else I can tell you. I've been in email contact with Module Masters and they mentioned that it could be the wheel speed sensor. I suspect I need to meet up with the buddy who owns the GS911 and compare the fault code against Anton's ABS info.

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Howdy DR,

 

After riding between 20~25 miles the lights flash alternately yet the braking system works fine. I'll return home and park the bike for days or weeks (hooked up to a battery tender) which seems to reset the ABS, take it out for a ride and the situation repeats itself. I'm not sure what else I can tell you. I've been in email contact with Module Masters and they mentioned that it could be the wheel speed sensor. I suspect I need to meet up with the buddy who owns the GS911 and compare the fault code against Anton's ABS info.

 

Morning beemerboy

 

OK, lets work on finding it.

 

What year & model BMW are you working with?

 

Are you saying that the dash lights flash alternately after riding 20~25 miles (NO starts, just riding along?)

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Bert Remington

DirtRider -- returning to your earlier discussion of the Gen Light bulb (apologies if this is hijacking this topic, please correct me if it is), RealOEM shows two for the Instrument Cluster: 62142306126 (12V 3W) and 62142306127 (12V 1.7W) without being specific which is bulb is Gen Light.

 

Per Doug Raymond 2014 schematic, the alternator excitor is fed from Ignition On -> F1 -> Gen Light bulb -> D+.

 

My questions are:

 

(1) if the 1.7W bulb is in place, would changing to the 3W bulb improve excitation voltage (dimmer light but cooler filament would have less voltage drop)?

 

(2) would placing a resistor in parallel with the bulb improve excitation voltage?

 

(3) would placing a grounded diode on the low (D+) side of the bulb be an alternative to the diode modification to the regulator that Roger 4 RT and you described thereby eliminating the need to remove the alternator?

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Afternoon Bert

My questions are:

 

(1) if the 1.7W bulb is in place, would changing to the 3W bulb improve excitation voltage (dimmer light but cooler filament would have less voltage drop)?--The original is the 1.7w, you should install the 3 watt.

 

(2) would placing a resistor in parallel with the bulb improve excitation voltage?--Could, but you would need to get it correct--Easier to just install the 3 watt bulb.

 

(3) would placing a grounded diode on the low (D+) side of the bulb be an alternative to the diode modification to the regulator that Roger 4 RT and you described thereby eliminating the need to remove the alternator?--NO, the D+ is just the excitation circuit not the regulating circuit.

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Morning beemerboy

 

OK, lets work on finding it.

 

What year & model BMW are you working with?

 

Are you saying that the dash lights flash alternately after riding 20~25 miles (NO starts, just riding along?)

 

2002 R1150RT. All is normal until reaching the 20~25 mile mark then flashing lights.

 

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Morning beemerboy

 

OK, lets work on finding it.

 

What year & model BMW are you working with?

 

Are you saying that the dash lights flash alternately after riding 20~25 miles (NO starts, just riding along?)

 

2002 R1150RT. All is normal until reaching the 20~25 mile mark then flashing lights.

 

Afternoon beemerboy

 

That still doesn't give us much to go on. Your flashing light sequence could point to a low ABS controller reservoir fluid level (but the 20-25 miles riding before failure doesn't exactly point to that).

 

Or you could be experiencing a low voltage to the ABS controller (gives you the same alternate flashing lights)--If you have a voltmeter you might try riding with that hooked to the battery to see what the system voltage is at failure.

 

Otherwise that GS-911 that you mentioned would probably the best as that should (hopefully) point out a failure code to pursue.

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Beemerboy,

I had the exact same issue with my 02 RT, a consistent repeatable failure. The GS911 showed a bad pressure sensor in the ABS module. I highly recommend finding a GS911 to help sort this out.

 

Edited by ltljohn
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Randy,

 

Not to step on DRs excellent diagnosis method, but you mentioned previously that Module Masters had suggested checking the speed sensor or tone ring. In previous threads DR has also suggested checking it but your issue may be different.

 

I do know I had a very similar symptom where the lights would set appropriately but after riding 20 miles or so without stopping they would fault. Stop, reset ride then fault again. On my bike the front tone ring was warped.

 

A few minutes straightening it and no more fault. If you haven't looked at it, its a simple check you can make and a far less expensive repair than an ABS module. :Cool: It should be flat with all the teeth on the same plane.

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Thanks, Chris. Having owned the bike since new and knowing exactly how it's been treated it's difficult to think the ring got dinged or somehow messed up. I'll check it out though.

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Beemerboy,

I had the exact same issue with my 02 RT, a consistent repeatable failure. The GS911 showed a bad pressure sensor in the ABS module. I highly recommend finding a GS911 to help sort this out.

 

I'm curious. Is this sensor in the module a replaceable part or does one have to buy the entire unit?

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Morning beemerboy

 

While anything is possible-- your warning light sequence PLUS your statement in your above post that the brakes work fine doesn't point ot either a pressure switch or a failed wheel sensor.

 

A failed pressure switch means no power braking on that end & a failed wheel sensor should give you a light sequence of General warning light ON & ABS light flashes at 1Hz (no ABS available).

 

Get that GS-911 on the system & get a failure code as that should take the guessing out of the troubleshooting.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

To all who took the time to reply, I have some resolution RE the problem.

The RT coded as being low on fluid albeit not much, specifically the ABS unit itself. We did a complete brake fluid purge and replenishment and the system works well.

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