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Starting from scratch here!


Robert Mayrand

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Robert Mayrand

Just bought an old 1998 r1100rt with 28000 miles. But unfortunately, i've never driven any BMW before, and know nobody who does, yet. Altough i've been driving american and japanese bike for a while, I must admit that it's quite intimidating to sit on the bmw for the first time, with all those light without any markings and those switch so different from any other bike. I was a bit shy to ask here and was hoping to find an owner manual in the bike or on internet, but no success there, even tried motorrad.ca without success. Anybody got a digital copy of the manual they could send my way, or info on the web on all the switch, light and controls......I never tought it would be that hard to find the info. Any help would be appreciated for the green newbie here. Thanks. robertmayrand@gmail.com

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dash1.jpg

 

I don't have a digital copy of the manual, but the switches and lights are all pretty standard motorcycle stuff - though the turn signals are set up a little different.

 

Looking at the pic above, left grip orange, lowest, is left turn, then horn is above that and then the yellow is low beam, high beam and "flash to pass" (that's the setting it won't stay on when you let go). The green rocker is your windshield adjustment. On TOP of the left grip you have the cold-start throttle control (cover says "choke" but it's not) - that just holds the throttle open a bit and is used by us northerns to start our bikes in the winter. DO NOT start your bike and let it sit still on the stand to warm up for anything more than a few/thirty seconds; you WILL melt your lower plastics that way (and maybe set something on fire) - just ride easy the first few blocks/mile and when the temp shows a couple of bars, put that cold start lever back to it's resting position.

 

On the right grip you have the turn signal in the same place, and just above it is the turn signal cancel - that works to cancel the left and/or right signals. In the pic, this bike has the "euro" headlight switch which your bike likely does not have; that switch will let you run the lights as normal, just the parking lights (no headlight) or no front lights at all. I assume you've figured out the start/run switch already :)

 

Ok - now for the dash. Switches starting at left are heated grips (up hot, middle off, down low), hazard lights/four-way flashers, and ABS reset/warning light "pause" switch. Center knob is your trip odometer reset. RID (Rider Info Display, I think) is on the right - left is temp, middle tiny number is gear, and right is fuel.

 

s-l300.jpg

 

Warning/indicator lights are all probably what you think. Turn signal, low charge/battery fault, high beam, low fuel, neutral, ABS lights (two - should flash at key on but stop flashing after you start rolling - if they don't, let us know), low oil and then turn signal the other way ;)

 

 

Edit: Welcome! If you fill out your profile a bit you may find there are others close by with the same kind of bike who'd be happy to spend an afternoon or whatever BSing and answering whatever questions you have (lots of folks here still ride "old" BMWs like you just bought - we sold our 96 just a few months ago and are currently touring the US on our 99 LT sidecar rig).

 

 

Edited by szurszewski
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Welcome. I suggest you put the bike on the center stand, sit on the bike and kick the key to the on position and just play with the controls on the handlebars. You'll get familiar with things in short order You might find a You tube video on the bike as well. Good luck.

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Robert Mayrand

Thanks for the quick answer, it helped me a lot to identify some of the little thing that were a bit mysterious to me, so there are no self cancelling turn signals on rt?

I also read somewhere thet you must first turn the key on, but not start it immediately, but wait until the abs is self testing? I'm not really sure what exactly it mean, but You see, that is exactly the kind of thing that is impossible to know, unless you got an owner manual even if you've been riding other motorcycle.. That's part of my worry, and that's why I have to find a manual, in case there are other things you can't do, or should'nt do. Will keep on looking just too bad there are'nt any online.

 

Thanks.

Robert

Edited by Robert Mayrand
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Welcome to the site. Amazing amount of knowledge here. I googled your bike for manual and found this website. I don't know if it is a safe website or not but appears to have the manuals. I did not click on it as I'm fairly conservative on website browsing I don't know. The first link is this site and is safe..the second one...don't know.

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=339259

 

 

http://ursa.irk.ru/manual/

 

If you post your location in your profile you might be surprised how many folks might be local to you and willing to help.

 

Edited by Skywagon
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Robert Mayrand

I already updated my profile with the info. Thanks! I've checked the link but it's for a maintenanc manual and I already have one of those, it's the owner manual I can't get my hands on!

Edited by Robert Mayrand
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Your bike does not have self cancelling signals, though an aftermarket module is available to do that if you want.

 

You can also kill the signal by pressing the same side again, not using the cancel. (ie press left to go left. Press left again to kill left).

 

You can activate the hazard flasher by pressing both signals at the same time.

 

The ABS will flash both lights when you first start it and you first start riding. At a couple MPH you will hear a whir and feel a clunk and the lights will go out - ABS is now operating.

 

Both ABS lights flashing together on startup is normal.

 

If the lights flash in alternating fashion you have a problem. If you haven't ridden in a while, it might just be that the battery is low (or a sign it needs replacement soon). Usually when that happens, riding for a few min then restarting will clear it as you've charged the battery up.

Edited by avu3
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You can also kill the signal by pressing the same side again, not using the cancel. (ie press left to go left. Press left again to kill left).

 

You can activate the hazard flasher by pressing both signals at the same time.

 

Really? I had my R1100RT for ten years and didn't realize that. (And I did have a manual - perhaps I should have read it...)

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You can also kill the signal by pressing the same side again, not using the cancel. (ie press left to go left. Press left again to kill left).

 

You can activate the hazard flasher by pressing both signals at the same time.

 

Really? I had my R1100RT for ten years and didn't realize that. (And I did have a manual - perhaps I should have read it...)

 

You can on my 99. The "click both to enable emergency flashers" is in the manual.

 

The click a second time to kill is not, but it works for me (and is way easier to hit than the up motion of the kill button). I found it by accident.

 

My bike has a self canceler deal, so maybe its because of that. I didn't think to mention that until just thinking about it.

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If you don't get a manual, you need to know about the headlight beam 2 posistion lever, the hot air defector levers inside the faring, the rear shock adjustments, (spring pre-load and damping), not filling the tank to the very top, how not to break off the gas cap, how to put it in gear from a stop without dancing on the shifter, keeping your clutch lever freeplay adjusted, the ejector seat, the use of a maintenance battery charger and the power ports, correct tire pressures, use of the center stand, saddlebag latches and how not to break them, yes, the bags are removable, how to adjust the riders seat height, how to correctly check the oil level, why you should have the updated glass oil sight window, replacing the rubber brake lines with braided stainless, that the bike will be happier of you up shift above 3500rpm, why your left boot will eventually be covered in oil, what the funny click-chirp noise is, why leaving the rear brake alone unless it's raining may be a good idea, how you can use the rev limiter as a shift point when feeling frisky, why you should play with the ABS to get accustomed to it, why the brake rotors clunk and seem to be loose on the carriers, how to steer the bike by mind control, not counter steering.

And why your face hurts from smiling after every ride.

 

Other than these few things, it's a breeze.

 

 

 

Edited by Tri750
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Robert Mayrand

Wow, i sure received a lot of info in less than an hour, wich also raised a lot of questions, especially this last post!

 

And thanks for the more importants pictures of the manual sent by a member, I really apreciated all the help, and will try to find an owner manual just to be on the safe side and keep reading to understand all the above mention quirks, i also learn that I must learn to preload before shifting, definitely needing practice....if this snow could just melt now!

 

Robert

Edited by Robert Mayrand
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Welllll,,,,

The preload thing isn't for everyone.

I've had my '99 R1100RT since 2005 and have yet to have the need or even try it.

But to avoid an "oil war" conversation, I would be happy to PM or email about any of the listed items.

My Bosten Green old bird is just under 50k miles so still a baby but I worked at a dealership for 13 years so I've ridden a lot of bikes and almost all the generations .

Tri750@hotmail.com

Enjoy you're RT ! I can almost say that the 1100 overall was/is in a lot of ways more desirable than the 1150 or pre cam head 1200.

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Replacing the o-ring(s) on the oil filler cap and the plastic base periodically prevents "black toe"

On the cop bikes, we would do the cap at the 6k and the base and cap rings every 12.

Those big shiny boots are expensive and the guys are real touchy about them.

 

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My 2000 R1100RT does not have self cancelling turn signals. And my RT turn signal system is a little crazy in that it suddenly will go dead, especially if the battery is allowed to drain down for any reason. I have replaced the BMW turn signal relay control module with a Kisan unit and it does the same thing. The nature of all this suggests there is a microprocessor in the turn signal system that has almost all of the firmware figured out. If you h ave trouble getting the turn signal system to work right, post here or PM me.

 

Anyone else have this sort of Turn signal initialization problem? Disconnecting, charging, and reconnecting the battery seems to be a work around. Otherwise, it can be a very puzzling problem.

 

And if necessary I can scan or photograph my 2000 RT manual which appears about identical.

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Read the post about depressing the turn signal paddle once more to cancel so ran right out to try it and that doesn't work on my '93 R1100RSL, darn!

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Eckhard Grohe

Hello Robert:

 

Welcome aboard. It is good to see a fellow Quebecer here on the site. I have a Kisan unit on my RT and find that it is what BMW should have installed at the plant.

 

 

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Why's my foot going to get covered in oil, Tri?

 

Keep an eye out for it, but we did authority bikes for years and never had an issue. But, many owners do for various reasons. Cheap fixes, have some on hand.

 

Get the Kissan signal minder . It allows you to program lights, running/self cancel/and more.

 

Be aware of the kill switch on R handle bar. Won't start cause for some new owners.

 

When you ride it, use the upper rpm's, don't lug it.

Maintenance isn't overwhelming, but needed on both time and distance intervals. Schedules out there.

 

Practice with the brakes. Telelever is different, better IMO, in emergency braking.

 

Tires may/will show some distinct wear patterns. Lots of ".02" about pressure, I used 40/42 om my oilhead RSL with very good results. YMMV

 

Familiarize yourself with headlamp replacement techniques and gotchas.

 

Think about hosting a Tech Day when it warms up. There may be someone(s) around who can walk you through basic TBS/fluid changes etc.

 

Watch out when removing saddlebags and closing/locking. Be certain all tabs on bags are in full closed position before shutting handle down.

One handle to release from rails, two to open, this is where the bent orange tab syndrome can occur.

Be sure the bags are properly on the rail with all slots before closing handle, can seem locked on but not, and bag will wander off.

 

"Oil dance", how to check your oil level using the sight glass.

When bike has been ridden and at operating temperature and you stop, on level ground, put bike on side stand a bit, long enough to remove gear (ATGATT), then put on centerstand. Target level is dot in middle of glass. Too full isn't good, a bit low no problem. With new oil it can be difficult to "see" level properly.

In general if you can see oil, good to go.

 

You need a special oil filter wrench to change the oil. It is expensive from BMW, there are others at auto stores that "match" but I alwasy used OEM.

 

On an older oilhead, brake lines, in tank fuel lines are likely to need replacing. Plan for and do so. Better to have a known...

Same with maintenance. Unless documented, do a full annual and whatever multiple mileage service is called for.

 

Alternator belt @36,000 miles. Another whole program with this and the cover, to cut or not.

 

Driveshaft. Read up and ask. There is maintenance, and external checks.

Final drive, same.

 

These are excellent machines. With proper care and maintenance they can go for a very long time.

Best wishes for a lot of fun filled miles.

Edited by tallman
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@Robert : I was in your position 9 years and 60,000 miles ago. Ride, ask questions, repeat; before you know it, you will be answering questions.

 

Oilheads are "different" but in a good way, and unlike many newer bikes, respond well to the attentions of shadetree mechanics. In today's ever more computerized world, it's harder to find systems that you can understand by looking at them.

 

Approaching 125,000 miles, my 99RT feels better than when I bought it.

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Read the post about depressing the turn signal paddle once more to cancel so ran right out to try it and that doesn't work on my '93 R1100RSL, darn!

 

Update: Had a thought so went out to garage and found that if I depress both left and right turn signal paddles simultaneously I can cancel a turn signal. This is one heck of a lot easier than dislocating my thumb in an attempt to activate the cancel button especially while trying to maintain constant throttle. Good luck with that especially when using a Go Cruise control. Would like to meet the germanic genius that designed this turn signal control system.

Edited by JamesW
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Eckhard Grohe

What troubles me is that these Germanic geniuses come out with a new design every few years. I have lived thru at least 3 of them on different generations of BWWs and it is getting tiring. Just go with the Japanese layout and be done with it and help prevent me from killing myself because I took the other bike out today. D**n that pi**e* me off.

 

But I must concede that the BMW layout works well with cold weather gear.

 

 

Edited by Eckhard Grohe
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Robert Mayrand

Thanks everybody. I've read extensively before jumping into this. I'm quite comfortable with doing all mechanic myself. I've rebuild quite a few cars and motorcyle in my life, small and big engine; mg midget '79, citroen ds '72, Vespa 125 '61, Velosolex '71, multiple 240 volvo, 1963 ski doo, and others. the bike got low mileage but it's my intention to change brakeline, fuel line to the pump, fuel filter, alternator belt, replace spark plug and maybe spark plug wire, adjust valve gap, throttle balance if necessary and even buy an hes sensor for back up, I know those might still be good, but I want it to be as reliable as it can be for a 19 year old bike....is there something I forgot that shoud be done!

 

Glad to see a friend from Chateauguay, Eckhard! Hello my friend, My bike is stored now at a place not too far from you in St-Lazare.

 

Rob

Edited by Robert Mayrand
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You might want to remove the starter and see how much tangential backlash there is at the clutch disk outside diameter in the transmission input spline. New will be like < 1 mm, and worn & ready for failure like 6 mm. Some say the R1100s don't have spline problems (that only the 1150s do) but the forums are full of exceptions.

 

Also a good time to see if you can renew the spline lube even if you can't open everything up. I've never done it this way, but I propose blowing any crud out of the spline with compressed air, then thinning spline lube grease with lacquer thinner & brushing and working it back into the spline from the one exposed end.

Edited by nrp
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the bike got low mileage but it's my intention to change brakeline, fuel line to the pump, fuel filter, alternator belt, replace spark plug and maybe spark plug wire, adjust valve gap, throttle balance if necessary and even buy an hes sensor for back up, I know those might still be good, but I want it to be as reliable as it can be for a 19 year old bike....is there something I forgot that shoud be done!

 

Rob

Rob, that's a good starting list. I would add these:

 

1. Pull and thoroughly clean the starter; they tend to gunk up and make a funny noise at about the number of miles yours has. Easy job.

2. Replace the throttle cables and the clutch cable. Probably not needed, but as long as you have things opened up, why not?

3. Plan on flushing large quantities of brake fluid as part of the brake line replacement. From the description of your bike, crud in the ABS system would probably be my greatest concern.

4. Not sure if this was explicitly on your list, but replace the U-shaped fuel line inside the tank. Take lots of pictures, and mark lines clearly — it's very easy to get mixed up.

Edited by Selden
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4. Not sure if this was explicitly on your list, but replace the U-shaped fuel line inside the tank. Take lots of pictures, and mark lines clearly — it's very easy to get mixed up.

 

And if you mix them up, a vacuum can be created which is not a good thing for your fuel guage. DAMHIK :dopeslap:

Edited by Bud
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