'99 R1100RT Exhaust mounting bracket broken

I need some help, please. On a pre-ride inspection, I discovered the mounting bracket swivel bolt(?) was broken on my exhaust muffler. I believe I have two options; replace the entire exhaust or remove exhaust and weld bolt back together.

I searched though the archives for some info on, but didn't find anything.

Has anybody encountered this before? And, I need advice for removing the exhaust (such as avoiding major pitfalls, etc.) and potential welding.

Thanks,

Roxanne

I need some help, please. On a pre-ride inspection, I discovered the mounting bracket swivel bolt(?) was broken on my exhaust muffler. I believe I have two options; replace the entire exhaust or remove exhaust and weld bolt back together.

 

I searched though the archives for some info on, but didn't find anything.

 

Has anybody encountered this before? And, I need advice for removing the exhaust (such as avoiding major pitfalls, etc.) and potential welding.

Afternoon Roxanne

OK, picture just showed up.

That part is non serviceable & non replaceable. You will either need to find a welding shop & hopefully have it welded back in place or buy a used exhaust off of E-Bay. (a good welding shop should be able to weld it on the bike without removing the exhaust system)

Your m-i-g-h-t be able to visit an auto parts store & buy a band type muffler hanger & rig something up-- OR bend up a piece of steel rod then use large hose clamps to attach that bent rod to the muffler.

I'd buy one off ebay. Safety wire it in the meantime.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-BMW-R1100RT-R-1100-RT-FULL-EXHAUST-SYSTEM-HEADERS-PIPE-MUFFLER-/381650276039?fits=Model%3AR1100RT&hash=item58dc210ec7:g:cV8AAOSwagdXR4Nq&vxp=mtr

I just happen to have the old muffler off my '96 R1100RT. The bolt you picture is welded to the muffler. I would suggest you remove the muffler and take the broken piece to a welder. I was able to create enough slack in the Co2 wire to leave it intact until I had removed my old muffler, then transferred to the muffler I bought off ebay. Better to unplug the other end of the wire but it is behind the RH side fairing. BTW, buying a muffler based on viewing pictures is a crap shoot. In my case, the one I bought wasn't that much better than my original one. I have a couple pics of my old muffler but cannot seem to be able to post them on this forum.

You will probably need an impact wrench to unloosen the bolt holding the muffler bracket on the exhaust pipe.

FYI - a muffler from the following bikes is a direct swap.

18121341495

Muffler, catalytic converter

From:09/15/1992To:-Weight:8.890 kgPrice:

Supersedes:

18321341270 (08/01/1992 — 11/05/1992)

Part 18121341495 was found on the following vehicles:

259 (R 850 RT, R 1100 RT)   (05/1994 — 11/2001)

259 (R 1100 S, R 1100 RS)   (01/1992 — 06/2001)

I've learned alot so far. Thanks! I leaned toward buying the Ebay Steele Cycles exhaust up until I inspected their photos. It appears their exhaust had the exact same broken "swivel bolt(?)" mine has. See the embedded photo. Whomever owned the bike previously, sistered/welded a replacement bracket for the "swivel bolt(?)"

So, I'm thinking I should reconsider having it repaired/welded.

What is everyone's thoughts.

Here is the pic from the exhaust from Ebay

I zoomed into the original Ebay pic, and changed my thought about it. They didn't "sister" a mount and "swivel bolt(?)", I think they just mig welded the bolt back into the mount.

Even still, I think I could attempt the same thing (with slightly better welding) on my current exhaust.

I've only welded a few things, so I'm no expert, and would most likely take this to a professional welder. I would totally appreciate any expertise you have to give.

I had the same thing happened to mine. I made a bracket out of a length of flat steel, that I used as a wrap around clamp.

Marc

If your exhaust is good, just take it to a welding shop (ON THE BIKE). When you are there, take the back wheel out and get them to weld it in-situ. That way you know that the bracket will be welded on in the correct place ant the correct angle.

Yep, mine broke too, twice. The second time I has a gusset welded to strengthen the mount. Been good for 60k mi. since. The idea to have it welded on the bike is a good one to insure alignment, but disconnect the electronics to be safe.

Welding (and preferably adding a gusset or three) should be fine. If welding it in place, the safest bet for the computer & ABS is to disconnect both battery cables first. Don't know your location, but I'm in near Cleveland Ohio. I have a spare muffler on hand with a good hanger, but a rust hole in the tail pipe. If it were mine, I'd pull the right side plastics off and repair it off the bike.

I think I'll try the welding it in place with the tire off approach. I wish I could do it myself, but I'm not confident about not burning through the exhaust. I have a MIG welder, but I only do fairly easy things made of thick iron (brackets, shelving, tool repair, etc.). I'm concerned I may destroy the exhaust with my unrefined technique.

Does anyone know the type of metal of the bracket, bolt, and exhaust? In the meantime, I'll go put a magnet on each one to ensure none of it is aluminum.

I think I'll try the welding it in place with the tire off approach. I wish I could do it myself, but I'm not confident about not burning through the exhaust. I have a MIG welder, but I only do fairly easy things made of thick iron (brackets, shelving, tool repair, etc.). I'm concerned I may destroy the exhaust with my unrefined technique.

 

Does anyone know the type of metal of the bracket, bolt, and exhaust? In the meantime, I'll go put a magnet on each one to ensure none of it is aluminum.

 

Afternoon Pawprint2104

The muffler is some sort of 300 series stainless & I would imagine the bracket is either 300 or 400 stainless (400 series welds better but 300 series is more rust resistant.

I'm not sure on the actual rod but it is probably a stainless variant also.

It will weld just fine with standard mild (non stainless) filler rod or mild steel wire but that does leave the weld more subject to future rust & corrosion.

You don't have to disconnect any battery cables or unplug any onboard electronics (BUT!) just make darn sure that he guy doing the welding is competent to weld on electronics equipped vehicles so he uses a very clean ground clamp attachment ON THE MUFFLR ITSELF & as close the welding as possible.

I have welded on hundreds of electronics equipped bikes without any problems but am very careful to not have the welding current try to take a shortcut to the ground clamp through a wire harness. (if the ground clamp is placed right next to the weld then the welding current & high frequency current has no place to short cut)

Dirtrider, thanks for the info! Hopefully, I can get this done this weekend.

I had the exact same problem, and it could be welded and a reinforcement added. Up to today, it is still there

Dan.

Yay, I got it done today! With everyone's advice and some research I elected to borrow some .30 ss wire and Argon from a neighbor. I used my Lincoln SP-100 Mig welder with the settings for the wire and gauge.

After thoroughly brushing and removing the built up debris (I didn't know the bolt thingy was hollow until the tire was removed and the debris brushed away), I set to welding.

It's not pretty, but I feel good about strength of the weld.

I welded it in place, which made for difficult work. I removed the side cases, the wheel, and the rear fender. Access was still very tight, as I had my helmeted head, both hands and welder jammed into the tiny space to be able to see what I was doing.

My neighbor recommended I tack weld it first, then remove the exhaust and mounting bracket and put it on the bench for proper welding. I, stupidly, didn't take his advice. It would've been much easier. Next time I will, though hopefully, there won't be a next time.

Anyway, I got it done. I'm not as happy about the finished product, but I'm certain it'll hold; I used good materials, properly cleaned the area, and was conscientious about ensuring good adhesion. At least, it didn't cost a dime, and I got a chance to put on my welding gear again :-)

I'm posting the photos for educational purposes.

Thanks everyone for your sage advice :-)

In my defense, I should show the tiny area I had to get my head, hands, and welder into. I repeat, next time I will tack it in place, then remove and weld properly on a bench.

NICE JOB!! Now I'll know who to send my broken RT muffler support bracket to. I'm impressed!!

The transition from the bar to the bracket is nicely radiused to alleviate that "inside corner" stress concentration, the exact place where the original crack started. Even a 1/8" fillet can prevent a failure like that.

Congrats!!

Morning Pawprint2104

The weld looks to be strong enough (pretty doesn't count as you really can't see it in use).

BUT, it doesn't look (from the pictures anyhow) like got all the way around it?

That leaves a nice hinge in that hollow rod to flex as the exhaust vibrates & buzzes.

It should hold up for a while but my guess is that it will eventually crack off again right at the top of the welds.

If you feel like going back after it you can run some vertical stringers from the bracket up the rod a ways to distribute that hinge area over a much longer area. If you do this don't end all the stringers at the same height as that will just add another hinge.

Good on you for giving it a try! My long-ago Honda 450 Scrambler had cracked all the spot welds on the top and bottom of the upswept pipe, resulting in poor running and a buzzy rattle. I took to work and had the tig welder drop a tack right on top of each crack. That helped, but I did take the whole thing off so the bottom could be done, too. That cured it!

Thanks for the feedback :-) I am worried about the relative surface area holding it now. It's significantly reduced from the factory set up. I'll keep an eye on it and check for stress cracks. Fingers x'd!

Thanks for posting this Mine does the Clang clang when I hit a bump the last hundred miles. Could not figure out what the sound was at first. Looks like I wlll find a good welder around here somewhere