2003 1150Rt stopped running

I am the original owner of a 2003 RT single spark with 18K on it. I have several bikes and I ride them all on a weekly basis for around 15 miles per run. Garage kept-pampered and carefully maintained by myself. Only motor mod is a Techlusion fuel nanny that I installed 13 years ago. I usually run this bike WOT in 3rd gear just before arriving home. The bike was running perfectly but when I nailed it at 4K RPM at around 6K it was as if all fuel supply was instantly cut- felt as if the key had been turned off under full acceleration.

I was running around 70 mph at the time and while coasting I turned the ignition on and off-all looked normal-then I released the clutch to try a re-start while coasting to a stop with the engine spinning rapidly. No mechanical noise whatsoever-that was a relief! On the side of the road I noticed no leaks of any kind and attempted to start using the electric starter. Turned over normally but some blue oil smoke was coming out of the exhaust. OK....better haul it home....

Got it home. Attempted a restart - got some blue smoke again and a slight smell of stale gas from the exhaust. Curious because I'm pretty anal about keeping fresh fuel in all my motors. I wondered if my fuel gauge/warning light may be defective as there did not seem to be but a gallon or two in the tank so I added a gallon of fresh fuel to try and restart-no luck,but no smoke this time-good! Scratched my head and walked away and as I looked at the back I noticed that there was probably a pint of fuel on the garage floor under the bike that seemed to have drained from one of the rubber hoses under the bike-not 100% sure because I did not see it occur. I checked the bike thoroughly and there was no evidence of fuel spray on the rear wheel or anywhere else. This seemed to occur only after I added a bit of gas to the tank and not while riding. I am going to start removing the Tupperware today.....any tips?

Fuel hose quick disconnects disconnected? broken?

Maybe an internal tank hose has split.

Got it home. Attempted a restart - got some blue smoke again and a slight smell of stale gas from the exhaust. Curious because I'm pretty anal about keeping fresh fuel in all my motors. I wondered if my fuel gauge/warning light may be defective as there did not seem to be but a gallon or two in the tank so I added a gallon of fresh fuel to try and restart-no luck,but no smoke this time-good! Scratched my head and walked away and as I looked at the back I noticed that there was probably a pint of fuel on the garage floor under the bike that seemed to have drained from one of the rubber hoses under the bike-not 100% sure because I did not see it occur. I checked the bike thoroughly and there was no evidence of fuel spray on the rear wheel or anywhere else. This seemed to occur only after I added a bit of gas to the tank and not while riding. I am going to start removing the Tupperware today.....any tips?

Afternoon hal26

That fuel under the bike after adding fuel could just be due to having some fuel spill out the fuel cap ring drain (that exits through a small hose behind the rider R/H foot peg)

In any case you might have split the high pressure "U" shaped hose in the fuel tank, or your Techlusion could be acting up.

If you have washed the bike just prior to riding then possibly suspect the Techlusion has moisture in it (a known issue)-- If you suspect the Techluson then COMPLETELY discontent it & try to restart the engine.

Otherwise you will probably have to check for spark & if you have spark then disconnect the fuel return hose, then prop the check valve open in the return hose/quick disconnect coming from the rear, then key-on & see if you have a couple of seconds of fuel return fuel flowing from the return hose. (if no return fuel flowing then you probably split a high pressure fuel hose inside the fuel tank)

You can also hear the fuel pump run with the key on.

I had a problem with the wire connector under the tank. If you are lucky you can get to it on the right side. I had to disconnect it, clean the contacts, put some dielectric grease on it, reconnect it and it fired right up. Not likely but still a guess .............................

Thanks guys for all your help. Have not washed the bike.I can hear the fuel pump briefly when turning on ignition. You are probably right about the gas cap drain ring as I used an ill-fitting funnel to add fuel. Got all the tupperware off. Checked and spark is good. Removed plugs and were very wet. Cranked motor and LOTS of fuel shot out of the right cylinder for 10 feet and the left side some,but not nearly as much. All external connections/hoses looked good. Tried to start and absolutely nothing. Air filter element is dry. Trying to locate a drain for the airbox to see if there is fuel in the bottom that needs to be drained. I am an old carb guy and this fuel injection is a bit of a puzzle I am afraid. Seems to me that since there is spark and gas (lots of it) that there would be at least a pop,run very poorly or something when I try to start it. Dirtrider,I will disconnect Techlusion and see if that is the problem. If not I will try your other suggestion if I can figure out which is the return hose.

Thanks guys for all your help. Have not washed the bike.I can hear the fuel pump briefly when turning on ignition. You are probably right about the gas cap drain ring as I used an ill-fitting funnel to add fuel. Got all the tupperware off. Checked and spark is good. Removed plugs and were very wet. Cranked motor and LOTS of fuel shot out of the right cylinder for 10 feet and the left side some,but not nearly as much. All external connections/hoses looked good. Tried to start and absolutely nothing. Air filter element is dry. Trying to locate a drain for the airbox to see if there is fuel in the bottom that needs to be drained. I am an old carb guy and this fuel injection is a bit of a puzzle I am afraid. Seems to me that since there is spark and gas (lots of it) that there would be at least a pop,run very poorly or something when I try to start it. Dirtrider,I will disconnect Techlusion and see if that is the problem. If not I will try your other suggestion if I can figure out which is the return hose.

Afternoon hal26

Good spark with LOTS of fuel usually equals a bad Techlusion (OR) the fuel isn't really ignitable fuel (like water in the fuel).

If you are SURE that you have good spark & good fuel injection then try a (complete) Techlusion disconnect (& dry spark plugs).

If still no start then maybe drain fuel tank into a clear container & check for water separation.

The airbox drain is at the left rear, above the exhaust. The injectors are in the throttle bodies, downstream of the airbox. You may find oil in there, but you shouldn't find fuel.

As stated above, removing the techlusion may lead you somehwere.

In addition to checking return fuel flow, I'd pull the injectors out one at a time and see how they are spraying.

Were there any other symptoms when this happened? Tach or RID acting strange?

I believe the upper hose coming from the pressure regulator behind the right throttle body is the return.

2nd post has a photo of Roger's test rig, but as he and dirtrider will tell you, return flow generally tells you more than the gauge. http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=833834&page=1

more photos down in this thread plus more reading should your return flow be weak http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=787793&page=all

When I went out to work on the bike after my last post there was a small area of leaked fuel from the 3 larger drain hoses,so it was not from putting in a bit of fuel yesterday as was suspected. I did a quick disconnect of the Techlusion and no change-not sure I did this properly. I will do this again tomorrow just in case I did not do it right. Also,I did not check for spark after I disconnected it for fear of fire. I will put a spare plug in the hole before checking again. Had a bit of a scare earlier when fumes ignited!! The gas is fresh and the bike was running flawlessly at all loads and RPM's yesterday,as usual. Like I said I ran it up to 4K like always and gave it WOT and it TOTALLY signed off around 6K or so. No missing,cutting out or mechanical noise and pulling like a freight train.

I removed the tank and the fuel pump etc. just to have a look around and it all looked literally new. I did not attempt to remove any of the factory hose clamps since quite frankly,I always destroy everything when I have done this in the past.

I'm tired and burned out for today. I'm 67 with a total knee replacement and a host of other ailments so I'm not as patient as I used to be. Just about ready to take it to a shop. It has Never been to the shop since day one 14 years ago....

Thanks again guys for your very kind help. Hal

When I went out to work on the bike after my last post there was a small area of leaked fuel from the 3 larger drain hoses,so it was not from putting in a bit of fuel yesterday as was suspected. I did a quick disconnect of the Techlusion and no change-not sure I did this properly. I will do this again tomorrow just in case I did not do it right. Also,I did not check for spark after I disconnected it for fear of fire. I will put a spare plug in the hole before checking again. Had a bit of a scare earlier when fumes ignited!! The gas is fresh and the bike was running flawlessly at all loads and RPM's yesterday,as usual. Like I said I ran it up to 4K like always and gave it WOT and it TOTALLY signed off around 6K or so. No missing,cutting out or mechanical noise and pulling like a freight train.

I removed the tank and the fuel pump etc. just to have a look around and it all looked literally new. I did not attempt to remove any of the factory hose clamps since quite frankly,I always destroy everything when I have done this in the past.

I'm tired and burned out for today. I'm 67 with a total knee replacement and a host of other ailments so I'm not as patient as I used to be. Just about ready to take it to a shop. It has Never been to the shop since day one 14 years ago....

Evening hal26

You have a lot going on at one time there.

You are going to cause yourself a LOT or extra work & maybe missed opportunity if you don't slow down & work through this methodically.

You REALLY should have done a fuel return flow test BEFORE removing that fuel tank & removing the pump.

It is very difficult to find a leaking "U" hose by just looking at it (they can look like new but still leak under to 40+lbs working pressure).

Did you dump the gasoline into a container & allow it to settle looking for water in the fuel???????????

To disconnect the Techlusion just unplug the Techlusion connection between the R/H fuel injector & main harness then plug the main harness back into the injector. Then unplug the Techlusion connection between the o2 sensor & main harness.

If you want to check that in-tank "U" hose with the pump out of the tank-- First go down to your local paint store or hardware store & buy a gallon of mineral spirits, then pour enough mineral spirits into a pan or container to allow the pump intake sock to be completely submerged under fluid. Now plug the pump into the bike's harness & place the pump pick-up sock under mineral spirits (just leave the pumps quick disconnects hanging free as they will self seal) .

Now just key-on & see if pump pressurizes but doesn't blow a stream of mineral spirits out of the "U" hose (caution: do not use gasoline for this test as a high pressure stream of fuel out of a leaking "U" hose can make a fire like your wouldn't believe.

Dirtrider,thanks so very much for taking the time to spell it out for this old geezer. Tomorrow I will give this another shot. What is that crunchy material in the pickup sock? Felt like large chunks that can be easily crushed. is this some type of filtration device? Just curious.

Dirtrider,thanks so very much for taking the time to spell it out for this old geezer. Tomorrow I will give this another shot. What is that crunchy material in the pickup sock? Felt like large chunks that can be easily crushed. is this some type of filtration device? Just curious.

Evening hal26

That is more than likely a degraded pick up sock (strainer). Very common on the older BMW 1100/1150 bikes as alachaol in the fuel really hardens & discolors the sock (strainer) material. (bet it is dark brown colored by now, was green when new)

You should install a new sock while you are in there. (new one is BMW PN-- 16141341233 (expensive at around $65.00) -- If you have a good (re: helpful) local auto parts store they can probably match up an automotive equivalent for LOT's cheaper.

If you have time to wait for it, Beemer Boneyard sells a replacement for $13. I have one, haven't fitted it yet so can't say how good it fits - but it claims to be right and they have a good reputation.

Scott

Hal26,

That "crunchy stuff" in the pump filter sock is likely a fine wire, maybe rusted, steel coil spring to keep the sock "inflated". I went thru the same thing several months back. I had the same thought about the crunchy stuff!! Then found my sock was very brittle, busted up easily, exactly as per what Dr. DrirtRider said, and would not have withstood a reinstall. I got the new sock from BBY per avu3 above, $12.95 delivered quickly. You might consider replacing the "U" tubes, filter (also from BBY) and small vent tubes while you're in there. My U tubes were OK but showed splits on the outside.

On your comment, "Cranked motor and LOTS of fuel shot out of the right cylinder for 10 feet and the left side some, but not nearly as much." That's WAAAY too much fuel in the cyl. If you had carbs I'd say your float valves were leaking badly and you forgot to turn off the gas.

You can pull the injector out of the throttle body (TB) and leave the tubing and wires connected, just lay it on the TB pointed at the ground, spark plugs installed and connected. Hit the start button while watching the injector tip. You should see a distinct spray of fuel on the firing cycle, psss-psss-psss type thing. The question is WHERE did all that fuel in the cyl come from??

Welcome to fuel injection!!

Welcome to Geezerhood, too. I just got here myself.

Lowndes

The question is WHERE did all that fuel in the cyl come from??Welcome to fuel injection!!

Morning Lowndes

Lots of extra fuel is usually a sign that a Techlusion has moisture in it & went crazy--

Or a sign that the fuel has water in it & won't ignite on the spark.

Or a loss of spark causing the sprayed in fuel to build up in the cylinders & not ignite.

The question is WHERE did all that fuel in the cyl come from??Welcome to fuel injection!!

 

 

 

Morning Lowndes

 

Lots of extra fuel is usually a sign that a Techlusion has moisture in it & went crazy--

 

Or a sign that the fuel has water in it & won't ignite on the spark.

 

Or a loss of spark causing the sprayed in fuel to build up in the cylinders & not ignite.

Dr. DirtRider,

Please, I'm not doubting YOU for an instant, don't get me wrong!! He must have been cranking it for a LONG TIME. That seems like a LOT of fuel to shoot out of the spark plug hole. Judging from the pss-pss-pss coming from my injectors it would take 30 min of continuous cranking to get enough to do that. Also, it's just on one side. ?? If the Techlusion shorted internally and the injector was on continuously.....??

Also, with that much gas in the cyl, some had to get past the rings into the oil. Best change the oil soon, too??

Lowndes

The question is WHERE did all that fuel in the cyl come from??Welcome to fuel injection!!

 

 

 

Morning Lowndes

 

Lots of extra fuel is usually a sign that a Techlusion has moisture in it & went crazy--

 

Or a sign that the fuel has water in it & won't ignite on the spark.

 

Or a loss of spark causing the sprayed in fuel to build up in the cylinders & not ignite.

 

Dr. DirtRider,

 

Please, I'm not doubting YOU for an instant, don't get me wrong!! He must have been cranking it for a LONG TIME. That seems like a LOT of fuel to shoot out of the spark plug hole. Judging from the pss-pss-pss coming from my injectors it would take 30 min of continuous cranking to get enough to do that. Also, it's just on one side. ?? If the Techlusion shorted internally and the injector was on continuously.....??

 

Also, with that much gas in the cyl, some had to get past the rings into the oil. Best change the oil soon, too??

 

Afternoon Lowndes

But if it was only doing pss-pss-pss it would not have quit running while riding it.

I'm not saying for sure that it is the Techlusion but if you have ever seen one act up it while riding those things can toss in enough fuel when they fail to completely shut the engine down even with the throttle held wide open. (that is a LOT of extra fuel)

Afternoon hal26

Look to make sure that puddle of fuel that you see under the bike isn't coming form the muffler/cat to front pipe joint!

If your exhaust is full of raw fuel be sure to move that bike out of your garage & away from combustibles BEFORE trying to re-start the engine.

If your exhaust is full of raw fuel then it's possible for a flame similar to an M2 flamethrower to shoot out the rear of that muffler when starting.

You guys are the best! Thank you so very much for all your expert advice. Had to mow a couple of acres and will spend a little bit of time on the bike today. Completely disconnected the Techlusion-no water in the gas (glass jar test) removed plugs and pumped out strong squirt of fuel from right jug-left plugs out so jugs might evaporate excess fuel-will install spare old plugs to see if she will start-no leaks today. I suppose I am quite lucky that it did not bend a rod due to hydraulic lock. I took a chance and cranked it over for a good 15 seconds or so a few times with the plugs removed and the plugs not in their caps due to fire risk. Still sparking when grounded so hopefully did not damage electronics.

I took a chance and cranked it over for a good 15 seconds or so a few times with the plugs removed and the plugs not in their caps due to fire risk. Still sparking when grounded so hopefully did not damage electronics.

Afternoon hal26

That is very hard on the coil as it causes internal arcing.

If you have to do it again just use ground wires directly from plug wire metal terminals to a good ground (no jumping spark while cranking & no coil damage) --OR just remove fuse #5 from the fuse box as the will kill both the spark & the fuel injection (safest way to crank an over-fuel'd engine)

Great tip! After yesterday's fireball incident I am more than a little leery since I was sitting on my little roll around seat facing the fuel injector when things got VERY serious. BMW barbecue grill! Occurred right in front of my face. Remove number 5 fuse,for sure! Still sparking so I assume there is no coil damage. No water in fuel.

OK latest update. No change. Techlusion totally removed. Put a couple of gallons in the tank and probably had between a pint and a quart drain from one of the hosed underneath. Cycled the ignition and installed good plugs and nothing-not a pop,even.

Removed rt. side plug and cranked it over and it was ridiculous how much fuel sprayed out and KEPT spraying out as long as the motor was spinning. I am talking gas shooting ten feet and almost hitting my simple old reliable Road King. I will need to change oil for sure when (if?) I get it running. Still

have not done the return line test yet,do I really need to at this point?

I am going to prove what a dummy I am....Is it possible that there is some sort of fuel pressure regulator or something that is not functioning properly?

hal26,

I was always told to "ground" the spark plug leads when cranking the engine, either by putting an old plug in the cap and laying it on the cyl fins or using a short piece of wire from the spark plug cap to the engine. The easy alternative is to use the kill switch. NOT grounding (giving the current an easy way out) will lead to coil failure. "It's gotta go somewhere." But, you have to be very careful with sparks and any gas fumes around.

.

 

OK latest update. No change. Techlusion totally removed. Put a couple of gallons in the tank and probably had between a pint and a quart drain from one of the hosed underneath. Cycled the ignition and installed good plugs and nothing-not a pop,even.

Removed rt. side plug and cranked it over and it was ridiculous how much fuel sprayed out and KEPT spraying out as long as the motor was spinning. I am talking gas shooting ten feet and almost hitting my simple old reliable Road King. I will need to change oil for sure when (if?) I get it running. Still

have not done the return line test yet,do I really need to at this point?

I am going to prove what a dummy I am....Is it possible that there is some sort of fuel pressure regulator or something that is not functioning properly?

Evening hal26

Probably no need to do the fuel return test at this time.

This shooting gasoline out of the spark plug hole POSITIVLY needs to be addressed.

It is sort of pointing to either a stuck fuel injector OR for some reason the Motronic has commanded the fuel injector to 100% on.

Unfortunately you will have to reinstall fuse #5 & go back to full system function to test a lot of the fuel injection control.

So be very careful in working with spark & fuel while cranking. (personally I would make darn sure that both spark plug wires are positively shorted to a good engine ground) --you sure don't want any spark around all the fuel --or if you still have the plastics removed just unplug the power connection to the ignition coil.

Probably the place to start is to unplug both fuel injectors electrical connectors & remove fuse #5-- then crank engine until no more fuel comes out of the R/H spark plug hole.

Now reinstall fuse #5 then crank engine again to see if more fuel squirts out of the R/H spark plug hole.

If fuel still comes out of the spark plug hole then you probably have a leaking (stuck) fuel injector.

If no fuel comes out after clearing & while cranking with the injector wires disconnected then you probably have a Motronic command issue (or a shorted injector low side control wire)-- this can be tested with a test light or a volt meter so if you get this far post back & we can talk you through verifying Motronic injector control testing.

Is it possible that there is some sort of fuel pressure regulator or something that is not functioning properly? -- probably not, even with a stuck fuel pressure regulator the injectors should still be able to control the fuel injection amount.

Will not turn over with kill switch in the off position. This thing is a leaking,petrol soaked 2 wheeled Hindenburg. I did the ol'plug ground yesterday with near disastrous results. Are the spark plug caps stick coils? Easy to replace,expensive? I will use Dirtriders recommendation and remove the #5 fuse in the future.

Will not turn over with kill switch in the off position. This thing is a leaking,petrol soaked 2 wheeled Hindenburg. I did the ol'plug ground yesterday with near disastrous results. Are the spark plug caps stick coils? Easy to replace,expensive? I will use Dirtriders recommendation and remove the #5 fuse in the future.

Evening hal26

Yes, kill switch won't work as that kills cranking & fueling computer.

If you still have plastics removed safest way it just unplug the power connection to the ignition coil.

Is your engine is a single spark (only one spark plug per side) then no stick coils. If your engine has 2 spark plugs per side (upper & lower) then it has BOTH plug wires as well as stick coils.

If it has stick coils you can simply unplug the small wire connector going to easy coil & that will kill the spark on those coils.

Single spark-Plastics are still off so I should be able to locate the coil and disconnect it. I am printing your very detailed directions before I go down to the garage. The new bionic knee is done for today so the Hindenburg will have to wait until tomorrow to abuse me.

It is simply amazing how much you know about these bikes! Hopefully you have not accumulated all this knowledge the hard way. I have restored many old VW's and rebuilt quite a few air-cooled 4 cyl. boxers in my day all of which were very basic compared with this thing. I had a very good friend that lived next door that was an electrical wizard so when it came to electrics I always could rely on him to figure it out. About all I ever did was change bulbs/batteries so I am at areal disadvantage here. I do have a volt meter but other than checking battery status I am clueless as to how to use it.

I will say again just how much I appreciate you and all the other good folks on this forum spending your valuable time and using your considerable brain power to help a simple shade tree mechanic out!!

Single spark-Plastics are still off so I should be able to locate the coil and disconnect it. I am printing your very detailed directions before I go down to the garage. The new bionic knee is done for today so the Hindenburg will have to wait until tomorrow to abuse me.

It is simply amazing how much you know about these bikes! Hopefully you have not accumulated all this knowledge the hard way. I have restored many old VW's and rebuilt quite a few air-cooled 4 cyl. boxers in my day all of which were very basic compared with this thing. I had a very good friend that lived next door that was an electrical wizard so when it came to electrics I always could rely on him to figure it out. About all I ever did was change bulbs/batteries so I am at areal disadvantage here. I do have a volt meter but other than checking battery status I am clueless as to how to use it.

I will say again just how much I appreciate you and all the other good folks on this forum spending your valuable time and using your considerable brain power to help a simple shade tree mechanic out!!

Evening hal26

That will work as I'm about to sign off for tonight also.

Just a quick understanding on how your fuel injectors work.

When you turn the key on 12v is sent to one terminal of the fuel injector, the other terminal of the fuel injector is hooked to a driver inside the Motronic (fueling computer).

The Motronic uses external sensors & input RPM's & a basic fueling map to figure out how much fuel the engine needs to run. It controls that fuel amount by how long it grounds the fuel injector (low side) wire during each piston up (your 1150 squirts fuel on EVERY piston up not just on the compression stroke as the engine has no cam sensor)

So if your engine is over fueling there a few reasons--

1)- the Motronic is reading a sensor incorrectly or has an issue so is grounding the injector low side longer than it should.

2)- one of the fuel injector low side circuit wires is grounded by a short or pinched wire so runs the injectors at 100%.

3)- Something wrong with the Motronic so it has a full on injector driver (not common but possible)

4)- one or both injectors have a stuck pintle so no matter the control current they spray all the time that you have fuel pressure.

5)- some other random issue in the fueling control system (again not common)

6)- or the fuel is not entering through the fuel injectors but coming in through the emission EVAP system into the lower TB fittings through the purge hoses.

There was a chance that your Techlusion was causing the injectors to spray all the time but that is eliminated since you disconnected the Techlusion.

So (IF) you are spraying massive amounts of fuel out of a spark plug hole then you need to test & eliminate until you find the reason that excess fuel is entering the combustion chambers.

This is a fairly quick & easy test & eliminate sequence while working on the bike but much more complicated to talk a non fuel injection savvy person through the basic tests & eliminations.

Hal, I am not convinced you have answered DR's question convincingly. Is your bike a twin spark or single spark?

In post #982245 you are asking about the cost of stick coils but in post #982249 you say it is Single.

You REALLY need to let us know. The plastic covers that snap onto the rocker cover (that covers the spark plug hole) have words embossed into them. What do they say?

A single spark bike has a full length cover that says "4 valve"

A twin spark bike has a cover that runs half the length of the rocker cover and it says "2 Spark"

I stated that it is a SINGLE spark in the first few words of my original post. I was unclear as to what type of coil(s) it had in a later post. Sorry if my stick coil question was confusing.

Thanks for all the great advice guys but I'm done. Did everything suggested and still will not even TRY to start. I am going to post a request for a good independent BMW wrench in the San Antonio area. If all else fails the dealer $$$$ is my only choice at this point.

I will get back when it is fixed. After I did everything suggested (pulled # 5,reset etc. and more) much less fuel came out of the right jug,about the same as the left. A considerable amount,but not a flood as before. Brand new fuel in the tank and yet the fuel that was still leaking smelled very slightly stale - some was dripping from the cat area....oh well....did my best ! Thanks Again!

Thanks for all the great advice guys but I'm done. Did everything suggested and still will not even TRY to start. I am going to post a request for a good independent BMW wrench in the San Antonio area. If all else fails the dealer $$$$ is my only choice at this point.

I will get back when it is fixed. After I did everything suggested (pulled # 5,reset etc. and more) much less fuel came out of the right jug,about the same as the left. A considerable amount,but not a flood as before. Brand new fuel in the tank and yet the fuel that was still leaking smelled very slightly stale - some was dripping from the cat area....oh well....did my best !

Evening hal26

Actually there is a quite a bit more that you can do/try at home to try & figure this thing out.

You are going about it with the wrong expectation.

You are trying to get it to start-- That is the wrong goal, you FIRST need to figure out what made it quit. Then eliminate that problem, then repair the problem, THEN you try to get it to start.

If you want to go on let us know as we have some more tests (things) that you can try to maybe pinpoint that over-fueling problem.

If you haul it off to a dealer & just tell them to repair it that could get VERY expensive. If it needs a new fueling computer plus labor that is big bucks. (fueling computer itself without any labor is over $1600.00)

The testing won't be real quick (take a few days & different set-ups) as we will have to talk you through it slowly & a test or two at a time.

We have the time (& hopefully the talent) if you have the time & patience to do the testing.

Dirtrider,I do have the time to play with it,perhaps an hour a day but as I said before this computerized Fuel Injection is Greek to me. If you have the patience to deal with me I suppose I could try a again. You need to understand the way this bike has been treated. I'm the original owner-never a night outside-fresh fuel ALWAYS - kept on trickle charger -oil changes at 1,500 mile intervals (I know,overkill) detailed monthly,just for grins-ridiculously pampered garage queen -ridden weekly and oil always up to 5 bars or more. I recently built a custom XS650 Street Tracker from the ground up and worked at BSA,Triumph,Honda and Yamaha dealerships in my 20's. That is why this is $%^&$#*@ frustrating to me. Started riding at the age of 12 on Cushmans and have not been without a bike in 51 years! If the Germans designed a toothpick it would propably have 15 moving parts and require a computer to function....sheesh!!

HANG IN THERE, hal26!! It really isn't THAT bad. DR will get you going again. Once it's over and the bike is running well, you'll be very pleased and say, "Is that all there is??"

It may be something very simple. DR diagnosed my problem several weeks back after a few questions. See "Any ideas why it just quit??" a few weeks back.

You have to wonder if he gets tired of being right ALL the time!!

Hal, another note of encouragement. I've gotten great help from this forum on a similarly frustrating electrical issue.

Also keep in mind, every test is not just about finding what's broke; its also about proving what's working right - so you can rule it out. Don't get frustrated that something isn't broke. Celebrate that you don't have to fix it!

Dirtrider,I do have the time to play with it,perhaps an hour a day but as I said before this computerized Fuel Injection is Greek to me. If you have the patience to deal with me I suppose I could try a again. You need to understand the way this bike has been treated. I'm the original owner-never a night outside-fresh fuel ALWAYS - kept on trickle charger -oil changes at 1,500 mile intervals (I know,overkill) detailed monthly,just for grins-ridiculously pampered garage queen -ridden weekly and oil always up to 5 bars or more. I recently built a custom XS650 Street Tracker from the ground up and worked at BSA,Triumph,Honda and Yamaha dealerships in my 20's. That is why this is $%^&$#*@ frustrating to me. Started riding at the age of 12 on Cushmans and have not been without a bike in 51 years! If the Germans designed a toothpick it would propably have 15 moving parts and require a computer to function....sheesh!!

Morning hal26

It might not even be computer related, it could be a simple parts failure or ????

Are the plastics still removed from the bike?

If so, the first thing to do is to remove the small hoses from the bottom nipple on each Throttle Body (careful as some gasoline might run out)-- If you have any handy, or can run down to the local hardware store, maybe buy a couple of 12" pieces of cheap hose to push on those nipples to drain any fuel away from the engine. (if you don't know what/where those nipples are just post back & I will explain it better)

Then make sure the little holes in the exposed nipples are open & not clogged (if fuel runs out then they are not clogged)

We will try to use those lower TB nipples to see what side is overfueling & WHEN it over-fuels (saves a lot of engine cranking & goes a long way towards preventing a fire)

Next is to disconnect the ignition coil power wire (we sure don't want any fires here) -- you can't pull fuse 5 for the tests that I have in mind as we need the fueling computer active.

Also try to get some help & tilt the bike over to the right a little or otherwise try to figure out IF the crankcase is way overfull on engine oil. I'm sure that you have some gasoline in the engine oil from all that over-fueling but if WAY overfull we will need to lower that level at some point. (or just drop the oil then add back 3-1/2 quarts of cheap oil for the testing)-- you will want to do a good quality oil/filter change when finished anyway.

Any questions just ask--

When you get this far post back.

We might need a Noid light to test the fuel injection injector control later so when you get a chance Google Noid light or injector noid light so you become somewhat familiar with what it does. (noid light plugs into the fuel injector connector)-- We could substitute a voltmeter but a cheap noid light makes it way easier to figure out.

If you get to noid lights, I like to use these Radio Shack LEDs:

2760270 (red)

2760271 (green)

2760272 (orange)

https://www.radioshack.com/collections/led-mini-bulbs-lamps/leds-with-holder

Thanks for the Link! Ordered this morning and hopefully it will be here soon...

What can I say----THANKS! Ordered Noid light this morning since I am out in the boonies. First thing I'm gonna do is drain my fresh (100 miles) synthetic oil and filter and temporarily refill with some new affordable lube for testing only. Motor is over-filled and I'm sure VERY diluted with fuel. I will get back after I do all the other stuff. My attitude is improving since I've got 2 other bikes to ride. I have the time and now I realize that I really should not be impatient and work on it a bit nearly every day and look at this as a learning experience. You are the BEST! Hal

Afternoon hal26

The basic game plan of where we are (hopefully) headed here is to TRY to determine if all the over-fueling that you seem to be getting is coming from mechanical (like stuck injector pintle), or commanded (by the Fueling Computer), or accidently (from something like a short in the injector control side circuit).

Hopefully you have the Techlusion COMPLETELY disconnected from both the R/H fuel injector interface & from the o2 sensor connection.

Also hopefully you have the ignition coil unplugged from the bike's electrical system power.

The object of disconnecting the Evap System hoses from the bottom of the Throttle Body nipples is to (1) determine IF all that extra fuel is possibly coming from the fuel tank vent & Evap system-- AND-- (2) allow us to (easily) view any excess (overflow) fuel by capturing it coming out the bottom of the TB nipples rather than cranking the engine to death & having it blow out the spark plug holes.

As we move forward with the initial tests we should then have a defined direction on what to (hopefully) look at next to determine the over-fueling reason.

Motor is over-filled and I'm sure VERY diluted with fuel. I will get back after I do all the other stuff.

Afternoon Hal

Your probably don't have to change out the filter but you can remove & drain it then re-use it for the testing.

Also-- when you drain the crankcase see if you can capture all the oil in a container then figure out how overfull it really was.

I doubt it was overfull enough to be piston high in the crankcase but IF by chance it was then your fuel blowing out the spark plug holes m-i-g-h-t have been entering the cylinders that way (I would just like an idea on how much overfull it was so we can positively eliminate that as the cause)

Added: be sure to re-drain that air box drain as a grossly overfilled crankcase could have pumped oil/fuel into the lower air box chamber.

Drained airbox yesterday.totally dry-no sign of fuel whatsoever. Techlusion is 100% off the bike. I had the bike on side stand for a day. Bike on center stand and checked level the next day. Was still halfway up in the sight glass. Following day after a bunch of cranking and what not oil level has reached the top of the sight glass. So not ridiculously overfilled. Wife has got me working on the house today (like everyday!)so I may just only be able to do the oil change/filter drain today. I really only have a big black drain pan and no way to measure but it seems to me to be a pint over at most. I will probably be able to eyeball to see if it waswaaaaay too much. Oil color appears normal as it is very fresh. Again,thanks!

Drained airbox yesterday.totally dry-no sign of fuel whatsoever. Techlusion is 100% off the bike. I had the bike on side stand for a day. Bike on center stand and checked level the next day. Was still halfway up in the sight glass. Following day after a bunch of cranking and what not oil level has reached the top of the sight glass. So not ridiculously overfilled. Wife has got me working on the house today (like everyday!)so I may just only be able to do the oil change/filter drain today. I really only have a big black drain pan and no way to measure but it seems to me to be a pint over at most. I will probably be able to eyeball to see if it waswaaaaay too much. Oil color appears normal as it is very fresh. Again,thanks!

Evening hal26

OK, get the oil changed, the coil disconnected, & the Evap hoses pulled from the bottom nipples on the TB's & we will start some testing.

I know that you have stated that it has spark when tested, however, I have heard when the spark looks good when tested, but in the cylinder with combustion pressure the spark is too weak. Have you checked the coil resistance, my 04 R1100S twin spark coil for the lower plugs needs a primary resistance of 0.5 ohms and a secondary (across plug connections) of 7.5k ohms. So, you might check this. Also, I have read where the Hall Effect sensors have failed, maybe another part to check. If you need electrical parts you might want to check the site: http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/. Good Luck!

Thanks for the link! That is above my capability at this time---Hope that will soon change...to be continued

Dirtrider

Changed the oil and drained the filter last night. Then cranked her over for grins with plugs in-gas shot out the exhaust and dripped along the cat. All fuel on ffloor ran along and behind the left side of the bike. Cleaned up the area /tools etc. and called it a night.

Today I disconnected the coil (not where the plug wires screw into it) just a snap type small plastic plug on the front of it. Then removed the TB drains no fuel ran out-zero. Took a very tiny allen wrench and very carefully and gently probed for any obstruction. Felt a TINY bit of resistance probing the right one but VERY-Very slight and easily cleared on the first insertion.

Next I was curious about compression. By the way no fuel sprayed out when turning the motor over with plugs removed and plugs were nearly dry. Final reading was 138 right and 160 left. Battery was strong but perhaps a bit stronger when I did the first one (also perhaps a bit of fuel in jugs-oil long since washed away) 170 left and 155 right. Within spec according to my service manual. Seemed to be roughly within 10% of each other.

I also received my Noid light from Radio Shack in one day-FAST! I am ready for my next assignment!

Dirtrider

Changed the oil and drained the filter last night. Then cranked her over for grins with plugs in-gas shot out the exhaust and dripped along the cat. All fuel on ffloor ran along and behind the left side of the bike. Cleaned up the area /tools etc. and called it a night.

 

Today I disconnected the coil (not where the plug wires screw into it) just a snap type small plastic plug on the front of it. Then removed the TB drains no fuel ran out-zero. Took a very tiny allen wrench and very carefully and gently probed for any obstruction. Felt a TINY bit of resistance probing the right one but VERY-Very slight and easily cleared on the first insertion.

 

Next I was curious about compression. By the way no fuel sprayed out when turning the motor over with plugs removed and plugs were nearly dry. Final reading was 138 right and 160 left. Battery was strong but perhaps a bit stronger when I did the first one (also perhaps a bit of fuel in jugs-oil long since washed away) 170 left and 155 right. Within spec according to my service manual. Seemed to be roughly within 10% of each other.

 

I also received my Noid light from Radio Shack in one day-FAST! I am ready for my next assignment!

Evening Hal26

OK, the no fuel spraying out is good news.

Next test is to have fuse #5 installed, fuel pump plugged into bike harness, fuel in gas tank, & coil disconnected.

Then--

Unplug both side fuel injector power plugs, then turn key on for about 5 seconds, then turn key off for about 1 minute, then turn key back on for 5 seconds again. (do this 4 or 5 times)-- Or stop if any fuel comes out of the those lower TB nipples. (if fuel comes out of either side TB nipple then suspect a stuck fuel injector)

If no fuel comes out of TB nipples then plug the fuel injector power plugs back in & repeat the above test. (if fuel comes out of TB nipples then stop & post back here)-- This checks for shorted low side injector circuit, either external wire or internal Motronic injector driver.

Lets see where this leads us--

Don't crank the engine until I say to-- BUT!-before you crank it again put a few shots of engine oil into the cylinders through the spark plug holes as you have probably washed the cylinder walls with all the over-fueling, you don't want to scratch up the cylinder walls with dry piston rings.

OK-Completed my assigned tasks! No gas came out - anywhere. Did everything in the order you suggested and did not crank the motor. Right now it: has tank/plastics off -coil disconnected - T.B. drain hoses off. Tank on - connector plugged in and fuel hoses connected. Sure is nice to not have petrol everywhere! Thank you SO much! Hal

OK-Completed my assigned tasks! No gas came out - anywhere. Did everything in the order you suggested and did not crank the motor. Right now it: has tank/plastics off -coil disconnected - T.B. drain hoses off. Tank on - connector plugged in and fuel hoses connected. Sure is nice to not have petrol everywhere! Thank you SO much! Hal

Evening Hal

Well-- that is both good news & bad news as it looks like the injectors are OK & the low side of the injector circuit is not a problem (but we haven't found anything yet)

We should probably re-check the spark next just to eliminate that. (even through the spark wasn't the cause of your over-fueling)

So try to come with a couple of good spark plugs with single electrodes (doesn't have to be for the BMW bike).

Now open the electrode gap up on those plugs to around 3/16"-- so either use a 3/16" drill bit or a nickel & 2 pennies stacked together as a gap gauge.

Then DISCONNECT the injector power plugs again (we don't want a fire)

Then plug the coil back in (we need spark)

IF absolutely no fuel was coming out of the spark plug holes then you can leave the spark plugs out, if any chance of fuel coming out then re-install the original spark plugs to prevent fuel spray.

Next, place those 3/16 gap plugs into the spark plug wires & lay the plugs on the cylinder heads for a case ground.

Put a few squirts of oil in the spark plug holes before installing the original spark plugs to lubricate the cylinder walls.

Now turn the key on & crank the engine (have a topped up battery before testing).

You need to see a bluish colored snappy looking spark across those 3/16" electrode gaps. (if spark will jump a 3/16" gap it will spark just fine under engine compression)

You can also install the 12v diode noid light in one side injector plug (noid light polarity is important so try it one way & if no light flashing during engine cranking then reverse it's install direction & crank it again. (pay attention to the noid light once you get it's polarity correct so it comes on during engine cranking).

You want to see that noid light flash on for short duration then off for a longer duration on each piston up. If it stays on for a long time, or on most of the time during cranking, then note that.

I still believe that your exhaust & cat. has a LOT of fuel in it so don't just hook the injectors up with the coil connected until you move the bike to a safe place & have a (turned-on) garden hose & fire extinguisher REAL handy. There is a chance that thing could blow a ball of flaming gasoline out the rear 10 feet or more if/when it fires off.

Hal

We are not too far out from trying to start this thing so if you get a chance (or into town) try to buy a couple of Autolite 3923 spark plugs (they are cheap & work good in the BMW 1150)

Or if you have a decent set of older removed spark plugs from your bike those will work.

I know you have your existing spark plugs BUT those came out of a severely flooded engine with oil residue.

In the old days (carbureted engine days) those plugs would dry out & be just fine. Unfortunately since the world has gone to fuel injected engines most spark plug manufactures have quit hard glazing the their spark plug center electrode porcelain insulators. (reason being is fuel injected engines seldom flood anymore & not doing the hard glazing is cheaper to produce)

With the newer non hard glazed spark plugs those porcelains can retain fuel/oil in the pours & basically give the spark a shortcut to ground down the insulator without jumping the electrode gap. (your plugs might be OK but we don't know that & we want to use KNOWN GOOD spark plugs.