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Looking to purchase a 06 R1200GS


MoteroNC

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I am looking to purchase an 06 R1200GS with 41000 miles from a dealer. The deal looks pretty good but is a "as is" condition from another state. Appreciate any advise on what to look for? Thank you

 

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A couple weeks ago, I purchased an 05 1200GS with 61K on the clock.

 

It has servo assisted power brakes. It comes with a unique maintenance schedule for flushing the brake systems ... yes, plural. There are multiple systems for both front and rear.

 

Linked brakes as well. Watch that low speed, using the rear brake pedal only. It puts a LOT of front brake in play. It makes slow speed turns interesting sometimes.

 

Aftermarket is not so robust as other year model GS's. Only made this genre for 4 years.

 

After all that ... geez this thing is a freaking blast to ride. Feels 100lbs lighter than it actually is.

 

The poor RT has seen a mile since I bought it.

 

It uses about 1/2 qt oil every 1000 miles. No leaks and it doesn't smoke.

Edited by mitchntx
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The easiest thing to give an online opinion about is the price for a particular model. :read: I'm no expert on final drive or impending final drive failures but, I'm told you should grab the rear wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock and rock it, checking for excessive play.

 

Good luck and welcome to the forum! :thumbsup:

 

Pat

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The easiest thing to give an online opinion about is the price for a particular model.

 

I gave ~$4K for the 05

 

R12GS_FtGriffin_01.jpg

Edited by mitchntx
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I've logged almost 1500 miles in 2 weeks just puttering around here.

Leaving on a 4 day excursion to Arkansas on wednesday.

 

Original owner said potential buyers were scared of the milage. To the OP ... if they are maintained well, shouldn't be an issue.

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They are asking $5800 for the 06 with exactly 39882 miles. Looks like I could do a bit better but I have already negotiated $1900. They do have a record of doing the brake system and other maintenance at the 12K intervals and they put in new tires.

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I am looking to purchase an 06 R1200GS with 41000 miles from a dealer. The deal looks pretty good but is a "as is" condition from another state. Appreciate any advise on what to look for? Thank you

 

Morning MoteroNC

 

The 2006 1200GS can be a real bargain or a very expensive flop.

 

The 05/06 BMW 1200 R bikes can have expensive brake problems, multiple

oil leaks, expensive ESA suspension problems, etc. Note: I didn't say

WILL just could.

 

When buying a BMW 1200 bike you really should see it in person to judge

the bike, & more importantly judge the seller. If the seller has that one

shinny good looking BMW bike but his house is in rough shape, other vehicles

are obviously neglected, trashed out looking belongings then there is a good

chance that the BMW was cared for in the same way but slicked up just to sell

to an unsuspecting new buyer.

 

 

On that 2006 BMW 1200 bike you need to crawl down under it & look closely for

signs of oil leaks at rear of engine (or signs of past oil leak stains that were

cleaned up). Check the front engine cover area for signs of new (or old) oil

leaks at front of engine (BMW changed the front balance shaft design on later

1200 bikes due to oil leakage problems)

 

Make sure that the the clutch isn't slipping under load going up hill in high

gear (all it takes is getting the 1200GS stuck in the deep sand or mud one time

for a frustrated rider to damage the clutch getting it out).

Oil leaks at engine rear main seal or at rear balance shaft seal can also cause

clutch slippage & expensive repairs.

 

If the bike has ESA suspension than make sure that works (can be a very expensive

repair)

 

There were some final drive issues on the 05/06 1200 bikes but if it is still

original (un-repaired) at that mileage then it is most likely past the problem

range & a good one.

 

Another place of possible problems is the drive shaft as the early 1200 bikes had

more than their share of expensive drive shaft failures (later 1200 bikes had a

re-designed drive shaft)-- The good news here is: unlike the 1200RT on the 1200GS

you can get the drive shaft out the rear without disassembling the entire rear

swingarm assembly.

 

Obviously we can't cover all the possible problem areas so my one best suggestion

to you is (1)- judge the seller for honesty & representing a problem free bike &

(2)- either take a VERY SAVVY BMW 1200 rider/mechanic with you to look at that

bike, OR pay a few dollars & have a local BMW motorcycle dealer check that bike

over & give it a thumbs up or thumbs down to being a decent purchase. (if the seller

won't agree to either of the above then personally I would walk on the deal)

 

If it is strictly a money issue on your end then a 2005/2006 BMW 1200GS can be

a deal (IF no problems)-- on the other hand a mid 2008 up 1200GS is a better bike

as there were a fair number of BMW changes/updates due to earlier problems.

 

Edited by dirtrider
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duckbubbles
Linked brakes as well. Watch that low speed, using the rear brake pedal only. It puts a LOT of front brake in play. It makes slow speed turns interesting sometimes.

 

It uses about 1/2 qt oil every 1000 miles.

I believe you are mistaken about the linked brakes. The front and rear are linked when using the front brake, the rear acts alone when using the rear brake pedal.

 

1/2 qt. in 1000 miles seems excessive. My '05 hexhead used 1/2 qt. in 5000 miles.

 

Frank

Edited by duckbubbles
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1/2 qt w/in 1000 miles is w/in BMW spec for usage.

 

To OP.

If $$$ not huge issue I'd look for the next version.

Not saying issues will happen, just that the 08-12 models had fewer issues.

There are a lot of GS's out there under $10k that are in great shape.

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Great guidance. I should point out that the seller is a reputable BMW dealer and the bike came in on a trade in. It would be a stretch for my budget to go to a 08 or 09 as I plan to keep my RT. I guess it comes down to weighing in a buffer for possible repairs versus saving for a newer model.

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Great guidance. I should point out that the seller is a reputable BMW dealer and the bike came in on a trade in. It would be a stretch for my budget to go to a 08 or 09 as I plan to keep my RT. I guess it comes down to weighing in a buffer for possible repairs versus saving for a newer model.

 

Afternoon MoteroNC

 

If a BMW dealer has it then ask if the bike comes with a 30 day (or longer) dealer warranty. If not then maybe they know something they aren't telling you up front.

 

If the bike comes with (even a short) dealer warranty then they probably have confidence that the bike is in somewhat decent condition (drive train wise).

 

If they don't/won't offer (even a short) dealer warranty period then push like he!! to get that as part of the deal. If they don't have confidence in that that bike then why should YOU have confidence in that bike?

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I'm wondering about the "as is" condition of the sale. In my (limited) experience words like that are used to protect the seller and should serve as a warning to the buyer. Does something need to be fixed that the seller prefers not to do? Especially from a dealer, I'd like to know why the bike is described that way rather than "in good condition" or similar.

Why would a dealer not want to add value by doing a thorough inspection and if they have inspected it, what did they find that made them add this condition?

Or am I just being overcautious?

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Your point is valid. I am going to push on the 30 day warranty plus a copy of their inspection as DT suggested. I really keen to know the condition of the clutch and also the suspension system.

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I really like my 05 R1200RT but keep the following in mind.

 

* I had to purchase an aftermarket seat - the BMW saddle hurts.

* I also had to purchase aftermarket shocks - the stock shocks did not provide good control in corners. I also made sure it did not have the controllable shocks (I think they are ESA?).

* I just had to have work done on the master cylinder for the front brakes which was pricey.

 

Other than these items, it is a wonderful bike. I mention this as there is very little difference between the 05 and 06 RTs.

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Linked brakes as well. Watch that low speed, using the rear brake pedal only. It puts a LOT of front brake in play. It makes slow speed turns interesting sometimes.

 

It uses about 1/2 qt oil every 1000 miles.

I believe you are mistaken about the linked brakes. The front and rear are linked when using the front brake, the rear acts alone when using the rear brake pedal.

 

1/2 qt. in 1000 miles seems excessive. My '05 hexhead used 1/2 qt. in 5000 miles.

 

Frank

 

Prior to 2007, the brakes were fully linked. Frank is correct for the 2007 and later 1200s.

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Hey MoteroNC - luckily I do not go to a dealer and the mechanic I use is fantastic. He was able to diagnose the problem to the point that the mastercylinder only needed replacement parts for the inside and I did not need a full new one. If I had, I would have seen if beemerboneyard or some place else had a used one. The saga continued on my repairs, as it turned out the drive boot and rear break pads needed to be replaced so the $$ added up. Still, all in all with the Ohlins and Russell Day Long, the bike is wonderful.

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Prior to 2007, the brakes were fully linked. Frank is correct for the 2007 and later 1200s.

 

Prior to the hexheads, the brakes may have been fully linked. Beginning with the 2004 GS and the 2005 RT, the brakes are partially linked.

 

From the 2004 GS manual:

Partially integral brakes

The integral brake function

interlinks the front and rear

brakes, so both wheels are

braked when you operate the

brake lever.

The electronic controller in the

BMW Integral ABS computes

the braking-force distribution

between the front and rear

wheels, and applies the brakes

accordingly.

Braking-force distribution

depends on load and is recalculated

every time the ABS

controller comes into action.

In this partially integral brake

configuration, the integral braking

function is activated only

when you pull the handbrake

lever. The footbrake lever acts

only on the rear brake.[/color]

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Linked brakes as well. Watch that low speed, using the rear brake pedal only. It puts a LOT of front brake in play. It makes slow speed turns interesting sometimes.

 

It uses about 1/2 qt oil every 1000 miles.

I believe you are mistaken about the linked brakes. The front and rear are linked when using the front brake, the rear acts alone when using the rear brake pedal.

 

1/2 qt. in 1000 miles seems excessive. My '05 hexhead used 1/2 qt. in 5000 miles.

 

Frank

 

Prior to 2007, the brakes were fully linked. Frank is correct for the 2007 and later 1200s.

 

My understanding is that in 2005, BMW started using partially integrated brakes, replacing the fully linked brakes on the 1150 used from 2002 to 2004?

 

 

Edited by workin' them angels
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Thanks, Larry.

 

BMW came w/a smorgasbord of brake linkings over the years.

Many, waayy earlier than '07 had front lever linked, rear pedal separate.

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Prior to 2007, the brakes were fully linked. Frank is correct for the 2007 and later 1200s.

 

Prior to the hexheads, the brakes may have been fully linked. Beginning with the 2004 GS and the 2005 RT, the brakes are partially linked.

 

From the 2004 GS manual:

Partially integral brakes

The integral brake function

interlinks the front and rear

brakes, so both wheels are

braked when you operate the

brake lever.

The electronic controller in the

BMW Integral ABS computes

the braking-force distribution

between the front and rear

wheels, and applies the brakes

accordingly.

Braking-force distribution

depends on load and is recalculated

every time the ABS

controller comes into action.[/color]

In this partially integral brake

configuration, the integral braking

function is activated only

when you pull the handbrake

lever. The footbrake lever acts

only on the rear brake.

 

Sorry Larry - I started my reply, got interrupted, and then finished. By then, you'd posted the corrected info. :dopeslap:

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Sorry Larry - I started my reply, got interrupted, and then finished. By then, you'd posted the corrected info. :dopeslap:

 

No worries, BTDT. Being a very slow and very bad typist, any thread is likely to have at least three new responses before I finally hit "submit".

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DR. Where there any fundamental improvements implemented on the 07 model? The reason I ask there is also an 07 available but with more miles. Thank you.

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DR. Where there any fundamental improvements implemented on the 07 model? The reason I ask there is also an 07 available but with more miles. Thank you.

 

Morning MoteroNC

 

The 07 was a transitional year with some of the upgrades coming in 07. Definitely a step better than the 06.

 

Depending on the build date the 07 should have the non-wizzy later GEN-2 ABS (above 08/06 build date)

 

Some of the oil system & trans updates came later (from 10/07 up) --so basically the 08 models.

 

If you want most all of the changes/updates then a late 2008 up seems to be the best bet.

 

Just getting the better brakes on the 07 is a BIG improvement but even those had a few ABS issues with stuck motor brushes.

 

Bottom line-- if you want to stay in the hexhead era then the later the build date the better until about late 08 then it kind of flattens out throughout the 09 build until end of production.

 

I'm not saying the 06 or 07 bikes are bad just the later bikes have some good improvements.

 

 

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So I found a 2011 GS but the ESA system is not working. I have been told I am better off installing an after market solution as the electronics is the issue. The bike was hit by lightning. Any thoughts on the aftermarket shocks performance and cost.

 

 

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So I found a 2011 GS but the ESA system is not working. I have been told I am better off installing an after market solution as the electronics is the issue. The bike was hit by lightning. Any thoughts on the aftermarket shocks performance and cost.

 

 

Evening MoteroNC

 

Is the entire ESA not working of just part of it?

 

If the damping part is working but the preload part isn't then sometimes that can be exercised & freed up.

 

If lightning hit that bike with enough of a hit to knock the ESA out then I would have a big concern that it also hurt the other electronics.

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I talk to the BMW dealer that repaired the electronic damage after the strike and it has a new cluster, alternator and battery. The brake system electronics are "fried" and too expensive to replace. Not an ideal situation but the bike tested ok when I took it for a small test ride. Just wondering about the ESA vs aftermarket shocks.

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I talk to the BMW dealer that repaired the electronic damage after the strike and it has a new cluster, alternator and battery. The brake system electronics are "fried" and too expensive to replace. Not an ideal situation but the bike tested ok when I took it for a small test ride. Just wondering about the ESA vs aftermarket shocks.

 

Evening MoteroNC

 

With all of that electrical damage supposedly repaired & still having fried brake electronics & fried or non operational ESA that bike could still have hidden issues that haven't appeared yet. (no way to know if internal wire harness damage or impending switch issues)--

 

A couple thousand dollars worth of aftermarket shocks might be the least of that bike' problems.

 

Before committing to that bike & budgeting in a couple of grand for shocks you might also do a little research to see what electrical parts are going for (very expensive).

 

That bike could easily turn into a long term money pit.

 

 

 

 

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