Wooster Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 I've recently purchased a "new to me" R1200R, 2014 model year and am gearing up to change motor oil and oil filter. Can anyone tell me the torque values for the drain plug and filter ? Thanks in advance for your response. Jonathan, alias Wooster, alias anything you please Link to comment
Oldrider51 Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 For my 2004 R1100S, BMW gives 11nm for the filter and 32nm for the drain plug. Don't know why it would be much different. DR will know the correct figures when he responds. Link to comment
Wooster Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 Those values sound familiar; seems like what I did for my '98 R11RT. As you say, my '14 cam head should be similar. Thanks, Wooster Link to comment
Tourmaster Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Wooster... BMW RepRom (2012) data is: Oil filter to crankcase, 11 NM (lubricated filter gasket) Drain plug to crankcase, 32 NM (M16 x 1.5), also, change the crush washer. Regards, Rick Link to comment
Wooster Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Thanks for the information. I've purchased a filter wrench, filter and drain plug crush washer (Beemer Bone Yard), will buy the motor oil (isn't it nice to not beat that "which oil" dead horse) locally and "git 'er done". Again, thanks for the response, Wooster who in the words of Gene Autry, is "riding the range once more" Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 Two things: Torqueing the oil filter is really a bit iffy.. you're compressing a rubber gasket that has been lubricated (hopefully).. most people (and shops) tighten the filter by hand as snug as they can with their hand - then 1/2 to 1 turn with a filter wrench. Done that way it won't be welded to the engine due to being overtightened (or as one forum described - someone destroyed an engine case by stripping out the oil filter stub thread.) They don't back off - they don't fall off - and they won't leak unless: SECOND THING: Make ABSOLUTELY certain the old sealing ring is not stuck up to the seating surface on the engine. You want to be holding it in your hand before even thinking about putting the new filter on. MANY PEOPLE have ended up with a bad oil leak because the old ring stuck to the engine and pulled out of the filter. Putting on a new filter then means you have two rings there - both trying to fit in the space one is meant to go. Don't be one of many. EYEBALL the old ring before putting on the new filter. Link to comment
Wooster Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 ..., SECOND THING: Make ABSOLUTELY certain the old sealing ring is not stuck up to the seating surface on the engine. You want to be holding it in your hand before even thinking about putting the new filter on. MANY PEOPLE have ended up with a bad oil leak because the old ring stuck to the engine and pulled out of the filter. Putting on a new filter then means you have two rings there - both trying to fit in the space one is meant to go. Don't be one of many. EYEBALL the old ring before putting on the new filter. OK, changed O&F yesterday w/o incident other than oil filter's removal needed much effort. BeemerBoneYard's filter wrench did the job yet considerable muscle was needed on my 8" ratchet wrench. Also, that danged rubber gasket was stuck inside the motor's oil filter cavity; no biggie, just needed my hand and oily rag to remove. Wooster w/ new oil&filter Link to comment
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