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2000 R1100S Gearbox Removal


rxcrider

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This is a duplicate of a message posted in the MOA oilhead forum and on pelican parts.

 

So my buddy buys a low mileage 2000 R1100S that looks pristine about a month ago. Then it starts dripping from the bell housing. We know where this is going, but I had no idea what a pain the S is to work on. First off, there is the main frame in the middle so I can't just swing the tail section up and yank the gearbox like I can on my RS and every other oilhead I've worked on. So we go to pull the tail section off, but the silencers won't budge on the pins so we took the subframe off with the cans still attached to it. The cross member is welded to the main frame, so the slave cylinder runs into it on the way out. To pull the gearbox, the main frame has to come off first, but the center stand is attached to it instead of the engine. So we needed to block it up under the engine case first...

 

Peeling the plastics off an RT is starting to sound fun.

 

If anyone has been through this on the S and has some shortcuts or insights, I'm all ears. My friend bought this so he wouldn't put so many miles on the R90/6 he inherited from his dad. So much for that plan.

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Morning rxcrider

 

I haven't ever done a 1995 S (only later ones) so there could be some differences.

 

Yes, I always (fully) support the engine & strap the front section down as the center stand will disappear.

 

I also leave the rear subframe attached as the cast frame section in front of that will have to be swung up.

 

Just watch the air box as it is easy to damage as it only comes out as you lift the frame (or that is how I do it anyhow).

 

Whatever time it takes you to do or remove something on the 1100RT just double that on the (S) & you should be close.

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Buy two cheap but sturdy chairs. Jack up the bike and slide the chairs under the cylinders. Run a ratchet strap from chair to chair to hold them in place and presto, you have a perfect cradle.

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...I also leave the rear subframe attached as the cast frame section in front of that will have to be swung up.

 

Thanks - I'm kicking myself for not thinking of trying that instead of removing the subframe like the Clymer manual instructed. Do you remove the cat and silencer sections before lifting, or are you able to leave part of the exhaust in place?

Edited by rxcrider
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...I also leave the rear subframe attached as the cast frame section in front of that will have to be swung up.

 

Thanks - I'm kicking myself for not thinking of trying that instead of removing the subframe like the Clymer manual instructed. Do you remove the cat and silencer sections before lifting, or are you able to leave part of the exhaust in place?

 

Afternoon rxcrider

 

As I mentioned I haven't done the real early (S) bike but yes, on the later bikes I remove the cat & everything rearward (probably don't have to but it seems to make access easier)

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Thanks - This one is a 2000 R1100S so I think your experiences should apply perfectly. The 1995 in my signature is my R1100RSL.

 

I think I'll put the tail end back together now so I don't have so many loose parts to deal with. Thanks for the pointers.

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All apart. The only real issue was getting the hardware out that secures the headers to the cat. The left side moved with some persuasion. On the right, I now have two rusty studs to extract.

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