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1995 R1100 set for 3 years


FWRider

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The R1100 RS just arrived in my garage but hasn't run for 3 years,I have a battery ordered and have read that the fuel pump might not work after setting,it has fuel in it so I doubt the pump sat dry.

What other issues might I be looking for,the transmission has been rebuilt so I suspect the shifter fork has been replaced.

I have all the records from purchased day,I have ridden the bike about 12 years ago and like it a lot.

Also have a ST 1100 and 1500 goldwing.

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If brake lines have not already been replaced with stainless lines, then do that. The original lines are 20+ years old and tend to fail either by rupturing outward or shedding the internal walls and gumming up the calipers or ABS unit.

 

Bleeding the ABS-II on the R1100 is really easy, even if you are replacing lines and starting with empty hoses.

 

Your Hall Effect Sensor HES will also eventually need to be rewired or replaced.

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I would offer that the gas in the tank is no good. Probably a good idea to pump it out and swish a cleaner in the tank to clean out all residue. I had a V-Twin cruiser that sat for 3 years with ethanol-laced gas. Wound up having to have the tank professionally cleaned and coated, new fuel pump, lines and all fluids changed to the tune of $1K.

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Need some information on injector electrical trouble shooting,I have spark to the plugs,fuel to the injector topside,fp is doing as it's supposed to.

How do I check for power to the injector? The injectors don't spray out any fuel.Bike will run with fuel introduced into the air cleaner.I did drain the tank and has new fuel.

Jim in Fort Worth

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Afternoon Jim

 

 

You not only need fuel (TO) the top side of the injectors but also that fuel needs to be about 40 psi.

 

My guess is that you don't have the needed pressure (either a bad fuel pump or possibly split in an inside-the-tank high pressure hose).

 

To EASILY check for the needed fuel pressure just see if you have any fuel coming out of the fuel return hose with key-on for a couple of seconds, or all the time during engine cranking.

 

To see IF your injectors are being pulsed by the fueling computer you need a noid light to plug into an injector plug.

 

If you have fuel coming from (a running) fuel pump that is the same circuit that powers the fuel injectors.

 

The Green/White wire at the fuel injector plug should 12v B+ any time the fuel pump is running (2 seconds at initial key-on-- then all the time engine is cranking or running)

 

Yellow/Gray wire at each fuel injector gets pulled low (basically to ground) by the fueling computer to pulse the injectors on, then goes open to pulse them off.

 

Added: one more thing, make darn sure that the side stand is UP for all your fueling testing.

 

 

 

Edited by dirtrider
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Thanks dirt rider,

I will check for power,there is fuel under pressure from the feed line,don't know how much .i learned the side stand issue pretty fast,I have it on the center stand.

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Thanks dirt rider,

I will check for power,there is fuel under pressure from the feed line,don't know how much .i learned the side stand issue pretty fast,I have it on the center stand.

 

Afternoon Jim

 

It's also possible that you have enough fuel pressure & proper Motronic control but the injectors are varnished up inside enough that the pintles won't move.

 

Maybe unplug an injector plug then run 12v B+ to the Green/White wire terminal then momentarily ground the Yellow/Gray wire terminal to B- (don't run them shorted to ground for long, just pulse them on & off)

 

If you can get decent fuel pressure to the injector then you should get a fuel spray.

 

 

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DR,you called it right,I applied 12 v to the injector and it moved ever so slightly,I sprayed some carb cleaner and worked it a few more times and put it back in and it started but on one cylinder but gradually the other one come on line,rode it around my neighborhood and its great now but idles 2,000, maybe it will slow down after it runs some.

The plugs were only finger tight,the guy I got it from said the motor was making a pecking noise so I suspect it was because of the plugs being loose.

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DR,you called it right,I applied 12 v to the injector and it moved ever so slightly,I sprayed some carb cleaner and worked it a few more times and put it back in and it started but on one cylinder but gradually the other one come on line,rode it around my neighborhood and its great now but idles 2,000, maybe it will slow down after it runs some.

The plugs were only finger tight,the guy I got it from said the motor was making a pecking noise so I suspect it was because of the plugs being loose.

 

Morning Jim

 

Get some Techron concentrate in your fuel tank, that Techron is a very good product for breaking up fuel system varnish & freeing up sticking injectors. (read & follow directions on the Techron bottle)

 

Added: on the high idle RPM's-- makes sure that the choke is off (that really isn't a choke but just a fast idle lever). Then look at both side throttle body cams to see if both side cams are resting on the idle stop screws with a closed throttle.

 

If nothing found then look for vacuum leaks between throttle plates & cyl head (like intake boots).

 

Do not (ever) turn base idle screws as they are factory set. (lot of work to get them back adjusted correctly)--Use the BBS (Big Brass Screws) to adjust idle speed. But the BBS screws & the air passages under them might also be varnished up.

Edited by dirtrider
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Re the BBS screws, they can be cleaned with metal polish (lightly), and they may need new O-rings. Lightly grease the O-rings before screwing the BBS back in.

 

The passages into which they screw are difficult to clean thoroughly. I use plenty of carb cleaner and a wooden Q-tip — with the risk that the cotton can come off, and will need to be fished out. This has happened a couple of times, but I always managed to get the cotton out.

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Where are they located?

 

Morning FWRider

 

If you remove them (the BBS screws) to clean them use some carburetor cleaner on the screw tips & threads (will probably be coked up)-- don't spray carb cleaner on the BBS "O" rings.

 

You also need to clean the air passages inside the TB's where the screws go (to do that remove the little Evap system hoses, or vacuum caps, from the nipples on bottoms of TB's (to allow TB drainage) then clean the BBS passages with Cat & o2 safe carburetor cleaner). Then put a dab of silicone grease on the BBS screw "O" rings.

 

Then reinstall the BBS screws then turn in until lightly seated then back out 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 turns from seated.

 

To adjust idle RPM's-- turn both screws in or out EVENLY until you get the hot engine idle that you want .

 

After riding the bike for while then do a good TB balance.

 

1100TB_BBS_zpsoo2rqzey.jpg

 

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Thanks for the detailed instructions,can I use the gauges that I use on my wing carb to balance the tb

 

Evening FWRider

 

You should be able to use them--hopefully they read in inches/mm of Hg or inches/mm of H2o?

 

On the opposed twin BMW Boxer engine a simple "U" tube filled with H2o or very/very light oil actually works better than most things as the resolution is much better on the water "U" tube than most motorcycle balancing gauges that are calibrated in the much heavier inches/Hg.

 

Manometer_zps9f2f1b71.jpg

Edited by dirtrider
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Huum,after starting the bike this morning,the rpm is now at 1100 rpms,I haven't changed anything so I'm guessing the riding I have been doing has settled the motor down.

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Huum,after starting the bike this morning,the rpm is now at 1100 rpms,I haven't changed anything so I'm guessing the riding I have been doing has settled the motor down.

 

Afternoon FWRider

 

Lots possibilities on the high idle.

 

Possibly a sticking injector pintle that was slow to return to closed, or a vacuum leak that only shows up hot, or an o2 sensor that sooted up & took time to clear off, or (if a single cable throttle system) a cable that took some riding to re-seat properly in the TB cam track, or a sticking choke cable that finally returned to choke-off, or ????????

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Well whatever it was,I like the idle now,noticed it had no low beam so I took the cluster off that has the dimmer and sprayed some cleaner in it and now it works,I really don't care for the turn signal cancelling button,I hope they changed it on later models.My Wing has self cancelling signals so in time I guess the button will come easy to use.

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Signal Minder

For a little bit of money you can have, running lights, turn signal cancel, brake light changes etc.

FWIW, I love the stock set up back then, but added the SM 5 for the running light feature.

Best wishes.

Edited by tallman
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Kisan signal minder - self cancels after a set period of time (3 programmable options) and by pressing the turn signal switch again. splicing it to the brake light allows the timerto be paused as long as you are on the brakes which is helpful at stop lights. Plug and play aside from the brake light feature.

 

Smart Turn System - uses sensors to determine when you have turned and cancels based on their software. Looks interesting, but looks like it will need to be hardwired in and I haven't heard of one installed on a BMW yet.

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In lieu of pulling up on the TS cancelling switch, press both left and right TS buttons simultaneously. They should each blink in unison one time and turn off. Doesn't cost you a dime.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the R1100 running great BUT there's a engine oil leak on the left coming from under the starter cover.

Any idea where it's coming from with that information,got the TB synced,had issue with it because there was no slack in the cross over cable.Go it spot on.

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Got the R1100 running great BUT there's a engine oil leak on the left coming from under the starter cover.

Any idea where it's coming from with that information,got the TB synced,had issue with it because there was no slack in the cross over cable.Go it spot on.

 

Evening FWRider

 

If you have a single cable system then you can't have any slack in the crossover cable as the R/H TB throttle plate MUST track exactly with the L/H TB throttle plate. If that crossover cable has slack then the R/H TB will open late.

 

On your oil leak-- LOTS of possibilities. Best thing to do is remove the starter cover & see where the oil is coming from.

 

If coming out around the starter itself then possibly a rear main seal leak-- if coming down from the top then maybe an engine vent hose leak-- or possibly the trans is overfull & oil (gear oil though) is spitting out the top of trans-- or maybe a leak in the rear cam cover-- or possibly leaking cylinder base gasket. (you will have to look in there & see where it is coming from)

 

You might also drain the air filter lower box (drain valve on L/H rear bottom of the air box), those can fill up with oil.

 

 

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Ok thanks,one of the articles said loosen the crossover cable,it would not sync until I loosened it,the right was higher than the left and would not lower until the cable was loose,I need to adjust the cable for no slack.

Can that oil get on the clutch disk?

I will pull the starter and look for the leak,can I lube the output shaft with the starter out?

Edited by FWRider
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Evening FWRider

 

one of the articles said loosen the crossover cable,it would not sync until I loosened it,the right was higher than the left and would not lower until the cable was loose,I need to adjust the cable for no slack.--Something isn't right with this--the higher the fluid column the more closed the throttle plate is (vacuum goes DOWN as throttle plate is opened)--if you loosened the cable (more slack) then the R/H side should go higher not lower as the R/H side would then be lagging the right side

 

Can that oil get on the clutch disk? --yes, most definitely

 

 

I will pull the starter and look for the leak, can I lube the output shaft with the starter out? --what output shaft???? Do you mean trans input shaft splines? If so then sort of, possibly, maybe but definitely not correctly.

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I was using my vacuum gauges,

Well the oil must be working it's way to the clutch,I was out on it today and stepping on it pretty good in 2nd it appeared to slip,👎👎

I guess I best not ride it until I figure where the oil is coming from?

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I removed the big brass screws and they were really nasty with black crap,my question now is,is the

The port they screw into go straight into the TB or is there another passage inside the port,does the taper portion of the screw seat on another tapered in the TB.

The reason I ask is the TB are balanced but there's no change moving the bbs in or out.i know they are dirty but could I use a welder tip cleaner inside the TB to clean or unplug it.

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Open the vacuum ports at the bottom of the throttle bodies, remove the big brass screws and then spray an O2 sensor-safe throttle body cleaner into the BBS ports. The excess fluid should drip from the vacuum ports. The bike will hesitate on the first start and blow some white smoke from the cleaner.

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DR,you called it right,I applied 12 v to the injector and it moved ever so slightly,I sprayed some carb cleaner and worked it a few more times and put it back in and it started but on one cylinder but gradually the other one come on line,rode it around my neighborhood and its great now but idles 2,000, maybe it will slow down after it runs some.

The plugs were only finger tight,the guy I got it from said the motor was making a pecking noise so I suspect it was because of the plugs being loose.

 

Morning Jim

 

Get some Techron concentrate in your fuel tank, that Techron is a very good product for breaking up fuel system varnish & freeing up sticking injectors. (read & follow directions on the Techron bottle)

 

Added: on the high idle RPM's-- makes sure that the choke is off (that really isn't a choke but just a fast idle lever). Then look at both side throttle body cams to see if both side cams are resting on the idle stop screws with a closed throttle.

 

If nothing found then look for vacuum leaks between throttle plates & cyl head (like intake boots).

 

Do not (ever) turn base idle screws as they are factory set. (lot of work to get them back adjusted correctly)--Use the BBS (Big Brass Screws) to adjust idle speed. But the BBS screws & the air passages under them might also be varnished up.

 

Got some o2 friendly spray and sprayed it good and let it set,sprayed it again,HARD TO START AFTER THAT but it did clean up and the BBS did adjust to the rpm I wanted but on my vac gauges the left needles jumped but the right one was rock solid,I do have adjusters in the line to adjust to keep the needle from jumping but on the left I have to almost shut it off,is the right side correct and the left need something or vise versa.huum

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O yeah,I did ride it 110 miles and it ran real good,does vibrate after 4K but liveable,engine seemed a tad noisy after it warmed up after 100 miles,someone told me to put a marble in a tin can and shake it and that's the BMW sound,that's reasonable with mine.

I came home and changed the oil 10/40 Rotello

Edited by FWRider
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Got some o2 friendly spray and sprayed it good and let it set,sprayed it again,HARD TO START AFTER THAT but it did clean up and the BBS did adjust to the rpm I wanted but on my vac gauges the left needles jumped but the right one was rock solid,I do have adjusters in the line to adjust to keep the needle from jumping but on the left I have to almost shut it off,is the right side correct and the left need something or vise versa.huum

 

Morning FWRider

 

I basically don't like vacuum gauges, for one thing they read in inches of mercury which is 13.6 inches of H2o so right off the bat they are WAY less accurate than a simple "U" tube of water.

 

They other thing I don't like about vacuum gauges is they are seldom exactly matched side to side.

 

And the last thing I don't like about vacuum gauges is unless they are expensive liquid damped gauges the needles jump around.

 

If you want to keep using those vacuum gauges then first thing to do is to try hooking both gauges to the same side using a vacuum tee. Then start & idle engine, are both gauges reading the exact same? Do both gauges have the same needle movement or oscillation?

 

On the 2 cylinder BMW boxers the vacuum pulses are pretty harsh so you do get a lot of needle jumping (when using cheap vacuum gauges we used to put cigarette filters in the vacuum lines to stop some of the needle jumping).

 

If you want an accurate balance then just build yourself a simple "U" tube manometer-- you can first use your vacuum gauges to get it close then use the "U" tube to get it perfect. Right now with your needle oscillation you are lucky to be within 1 or 2 inches of mercury as far as accuracy goes (that is 13.6"-27" of H2o). We usually set them to a couple of inches or less of H2o side to side variance. (that isn't even a needle width on your vacuum gauges)--If the water column still dances around then add antifreeze to the H2o or just use some 2 cycle oil in the "U" tube as those add viscosity so slow or stop any column height dancing.

 

Manometer_DR_zpsttokhbd3.jpg

Edited by dirtrider
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Thanks for the information,being a toolmaker I can build that.👍👍

Should the vacuum line pulled from the tb require plugging while syncing the tb?

Edited by FWRider
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