R1100RS HES Repair

So I have my HES off the bike, im splicing in new wire and repairing the cracks. What do I do about the RF shielding? Theres no way Ill be able to slide my new wire into it...

You buy a high temp. cable that is already shielded.

So I have my HES off the bike, im splicing in new wire and repairing the cracks. What do I do about the RF shielding? Theres no way Ill be able to slide my new wire into it...

Look Here

What are you using for replacement wire? It is essential that it be able to withstand the high temperatures it will be subjected to over time. Do yourself a favor and purchase the cable I have linked in my reply in the "Look Here" link.

What do you mean by "repairing the cracks?"

So I have my HES off the bike, im splicing in new wire and repairing the cracks. What do I do about the RF shielding? Theres no way Ill be able to slide my new wire into it...

Afternoon ncstatecamp

If your bike doesn't have a radio than you can probably live without it.

I use a foil shielding tape that has a conducive adhesive but it is an industrial product that I don't think is available to the general public. I believe it is a 3-M product so maybe they make a consumer version.

So I have my HES off the bike, im splicing in new wire and repairing the cracks. What do I do about the RF shielding? Theres no way Ill be able to slide my new wire into it...

 

Look Here

 

What are you using for replacement wire? It is essential that it be able to withstand the high temperatures it will be subjected to over time. Do yourself a favor and purchase the cable I have linked in my reply in the "Look Here" link.

 

What do you mean by "repairing the cracks?"

eddd,

IIRC the preferable replacement is tefzel aviation wire for a hall sensor re-wire.

Is that correct??

Yes. That is a high-temp shielded cable, and that is exactly what is needed.

If your bike doesn't have a radio than you can probably live without it.

Digital signals passing right by the alternator. I'd shield them even without a radio.

Hey Stan, it seems to work without any insulation on the wires.

Is RF shielding really necessary? Ha ha ha!

Just as an update and for knowledge of others looking to do this in the future, and Ill probably get a bit of flack for some of it but we'll see how it works in the long run.

So to start I ordered this. I tried to order stuff recommended from mcmaster but they won't sell you 2 ft of it, only 1, 10 or any custom length over 15.

For shielding I wrapped the whole loom in several layers of aluminum foil and crimped tails from the original plug end into a folded layer.

From there with shrink wrap around each splice, I shrink wrapped the whole loom (aluminum foil included) then wrapped the whole shebang in this stuff.

tips and tricks for future generations:

Pin Removal: I used the smallest guy from this to poke around each pin from the top and was able to push down the wings, with a nice tug they pushed through the back. Further info to help, there are 4 of them all the way around not 2 like I though to begin with.

Attaching new wire to old pins:

You'll only be able to get the stress relief folds unfurled, the rest if a pain. I ended up just clipping as much wire out as possible, then solder in the new wire inside the pin nose and down the length.

Just as an update and for knowledge of others looking to do this in the future, and Ill probably get a bit of flack for some of it but we'll see how it works in the long run.

 

So to start I ordered this. I tried to order stuff recommended from mcmaster but they won't sell you 2 ft of it, only 1, 10 or any custom length over 15.

 

For shielding I wrapped the whole loom in several layers of aluminum foil and crimped tails from the original plug end into a folded layer.

 

From there with shrink wrap around each splice, I shrink wrapped the whole loom (aluminum foil included) then wrapped the whole shebang in this stuff.

 

tips and tricks for future generations:

 

Pin Removal: I used the smallest guy from this to poke around each pin from the top and was able to push down the wings, with a nice tug they pushed through the back. Further info to help, there are 4 of them all the way around not 2 like I though to begin with.

 

Attaching new wire to old pins:

You'll only be able to get the stress relief folds unfurled, the rest if a pain. I ended up just clipping as much wire out as possible, then solder in the new wire inside the pin nose and down the length.

Whatever works for you is all good, however since you are offering advice for future generations I thought I'd add some information/clarification for others as well.

You can order any length of the 8219K56 cable from McMaster-Carr. I just went to their website and was able to get a 2', 3', and 4' length in my basket, though I did initially encounter a notation that was along the lines of what you experienced. Since I've ordered various lengths in the past I re-entered their website and was able to request any length I wanted. I suggest that people call them if you encounter a problem getting the exact length you want through the website.

The wire you purchased from Amazon is high-temp wire of the correct type, but 18 gauge is bigger than required. Some people might find it a bit more difficult to work with, specifically where you solder the new wires to the sensors' wire. The thinner 22 gauge wire makes for a more compact, easier to deal with wire loom.

I went through the pin removal task the first couple of times, but was shown an easier way by a friend I was helping. As explained in the DIY link, if you leave short pigtails at the connector end you can slide heat shrink tubing onto the new wires, solder to the pigtails, and then slide the shrink tubing over the solder joint. Another option is to just wrap electrical tape over the solder joint. The connector itself keeps the individual wire separated so there isn't really a likelihood that the wire could ever come in contact with each other.

Again, whatever works for you is great. This isn't flack, just some other options from someone who has done the HES wire upgrade 7 or 8 times.

I was thinking more flack for the foil wrap. For McMaster I was able to put "other" lengths in my cart but as soon as I went to check out I would get a thing from them saying min custom was 15', though I should've just called, you right.

as a tidbit to future generations, yeah go with a slightly thinner wires, I had no problem connecting everything but I did have to remove some of my wrap to get it to fit right between/behind the plate and in the channel at the corner of the block.

I had actually planned on leaving pigtails and soldering on the new wire as extensions as you had suggested but when I got everything off the only cracks to be had were right there next to the connector, everything looked fine under the sheath. Up near the main connector all the wires were cracked and had some green to them so they needed to go, made my life a whole hell a lot of more difficult.

Down by the plate I just butt jointed the new wires to the sensor wires with some butt joints I had around.