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Luggage lock down broken? What to do?


Fraidycat

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The 'clamp' which locks the luggage to the bike has broken----Can it be fixed? or where to go for a replacement? (I've been away for a couple years and trying to resume riding my RT 1100 this year)

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If you're talking about the saddlebags, the retracting "hook" portion at the top that grabs the rails, the box is replaceable as a unit for 225.00+

Drilling of the rivets and a pop rivet tool is required.

 

+1

Will be cheaper to just replace with a used one. Go to beemerboneyard and request what you are looking for and be on a wait list for it. I have seen decent deals on CL but you have to keep and eye out as they go fast. The parts can be purchased but, just for the parts you are over 250 for them and more if you don't have a pop rivet puller, or angle drill motor. It can be done with a conventional drill motor, but must use extreme care when drilling out the rivets.

Edited by SAS
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Wow! Over $200? That's a hard pill to swallow for anyone like me who already has about half of my Social Security check taken by State, and Federal taxes, property and sales taxes and most of what's left gobbled up by health insurance premiums. I guess I'll try to 'fix' it. First off I'll cut a couple of vary narrow strips from a one inch angle iron---drill and tap those to the 'stub' and then use some JB Weld steel to bolster the repair.

Yeah I know----it will require the deft touch of a surgeon---not one of my attributes but then I don't have anything to lose when facing the prospect of not eating until I can find a way to replace $225 (or thereabouts. Maybe I'll go into business fixing these things if this works----We'll see what happens.

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as noted above lots of those bags are for sale. e-bay has about 15 on there right now. I have 2 left bags for sale myself. You did not say if it was left or right.

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I just experienced this failure a couple of weeks ago. As usual, I choked on the BMW part cost, especially since you are required to replace the entire latch/handle assembly ("multi-function box"), but my cost was not north of $200 as others have mentioned. Still spendy, but less. Countryside BMW lists part #46542307620 for $174.00. Factor in their unadvertised 15% online discount (coupon code: PROMO15) and it was $147.90. I think shipping was around $15.

 

I was concerned about tracking down the somewhat special sealing rivets, but the new part comes with 7 rivets and sealing washers needed to install the new assembly. Yes, you will need to get a pop-rivet tool - or you can tap the plate on the multi-function box and use screws (with some weak loctite) and rubber washers. A right-angle gearhead for the drill is helpful to drill out the old rivets - I already had one.

 

A used bag is probably still a cheaper way to go.

 

Like you I'm contemplating a repair for the occasion when the other side goes. I was thinking about drilling and pinning the damaged catch (along with some JB wonderstuff). I am also planning to model up the damaged part and see what a machined part would cost. Of course that's only part of the equation as there is considerable dis-assembly/re-assembly to swap that new part into the assembly. I found a number of forum discussions about this part failure. It seems to be rather common, but all the solutions were either a used bag or bite the bullet on the replacement part.

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Well-----I just went ahead with my plan to try to repair it---and think I have succeeded------I did take some photo's as I proceeded---but have forgotten how to post them here on this site-----But for anyone interested I would be happy to email them to you with explanation of what my procedure was. I believe that my repair will be at least as strong ---maybe stronger--than the original. My cost of repair was less than $5.

I appreciate the thoughts and information that some of you have provided----I will review those now in retrospect but I had predetermined that I had nothing to lose by trying to effect a repair and just went ahead with it--

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Why isn't anyone going with the repair parts that are listed for the multfunction box?

 

As best I can tell, item 13 is a kit to repair the red flag that is actuated by the lock cylinder. The part that broke on my bag (and what I understand broke for Fraidycat) was the "tongue" that locks the bag to the rail on the bike.

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Item 13 is just the key lock. Item 1 is the assy that houses the box lock that locks the bag to the bike bag mount rail. So it is either a new box assy or a used bag.

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I posted this for Fraidycat. Any questions should be directed to him.

Here are some pictures and a description of the procedure that I used in repairing mine:

 

1. The picture below shows the broken block which I drilled (#40 drill) and tapped (3mm tap)

 

Picture%20One_zpszw8fherz.jpg

 

 

The picture below shows 2 narrow strips cut from a 1&1/4" X 1&1/4" piece of angle iron. These have been drilled and show the 3mm bolts in place.

 

Picture%20Two_zpskmnmm6o5.jpg

 

 

The picture below shows the strips in position on the block ---ready to bolt down to the block

 

Picture%20Three_zps2fmwfntw.jpg

 

Below----the clips are in position and bolted down.

 

Picture%20Four_zpshibt1aqk.jpg

 

 

Below----closeup of the above

 

Picture%20Five_zpsj3aenrxr.jpg

 

Below---you see that I have spot welded a piece of angle iron to the strips. Carefully here to make sure that the angle iron is positioned correctly such that the 'clamp' will fit tightly on the bikes rack. This angle will lock the bag to the rack.

 

Picture%20Six_zpsauww45if.jpg

 

Below---close up of the above

 

Picture%20Seven_zps6g9clv8z.jpg

 

Below----finally weld the straps firmly to the block along the entire length of the strap---this will supplement the 3mm bolts that were used to fasten the straps to the block. In effect now we have a stiff, firm block supporting the 'clamp' mechanism which secures the bag to the rack.

 

Picture%20Eight_zpswz8ihtg6.jpg

 

Finally----a different view of the finished repair which shows the correct offset distance which allows the clamp to overlay the rack----that's about a 1/2 " space----but you should measure that distance on your application before you spot weld the angle iron to the straps to be sure it will fit when you are through.

 

Picture%20Nine_zpsywdjrxig.jpg

 

OH----I left out an important piece of information regarding the next to the last picture when I said that I 'welded' the entire length of the straps to the block----for that I use JB steel weld----I did not actually weld it with a welder obviously---the block itself is some kind of composition material and will not accept a metallic weld---but JB weld will make that bond very efficiently. By making sure that the links are securely bonded to the block you have added great strength to this repair. I believe it may be superior in strength to the original---and if one uses care in making sure that the 'clamp' is sliding over the rack properly as you close the handle you should have no further problem with that mechanism breaking in the future.

 

Edited by kioolt
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Thank you for posting those pictures----You did an excellent job of getting them posted to the forum site. I am grateful for your help. Others seeing this may have ideas leading to improvements in my design and execution---and if so to the benefit of us all. Good job!

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