Another Shift Assist thread - sorry

My 2016 RT has about 1800 miles on it.

 

A few times over the past week or so, I've had trouble using shift assist to downshift into second as I'm approaching a stop light. Today it happened a couple of times, but then shifting up with the shift assist was clunkier than normal as well going into 3rd.

 

I realized that for 99% of the time I've had the bike, I've been in "Road" mode, and a few days ago, I changed to Dynamic to try that out. I am wondering if Dynamic has something to do with the issues I've been seeing.

 

This evening I changed back to Road and the shift assist is still clunkier than before sometimes. Other times its buttery smooth, even downshifting into 2nd approaching a stop light/sign.

 

SO, I'm wondering what the reset/reprogram procedure is for the shift assist on the RT. I searched for this and found varied answers, most of which were attributed to being either for a GS or for an S1000R.

 

Any help would be appreciated... I want my smooth shifting back on my virtually new bike!

Shift assist upgrade my be in your future. Have you had it done?

 

GT

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I have the same complaints with my 2017 (pre-facelift) R1200GS. I usually just use the clutch!

Are you holding the throttle open shifting up with shift assist and, when shifting down, closing the throttle and keeping it closed. No blipping of the throttle going up or down. Nevertheless, it works best up and down in the higher gears. I have a 2016 as well. I don't always use it, mainly when I am feeling lazy. (My 2011 shifted better, overall, without the shift assist than my '16.) I'm pushing 15K miles on it and remain impressed with its performance and handling.

 

Larry

Are you holding the throttle open shifting up with shift assist and, when shifting down, closing the throttle and keeping it closed.

 

Yes and Yes. I'm riding it the same way I did before when it was working great.

 

I don't know if any difference exist between my '15 and the '16 SA systems, but I think the 1-2 or 2-1 shifts up have been less smooth than what I can do manually and it seems that is a common thread. I ride almost exclusively in Dynamic mode but early on I found the system to be terribly inconsistent. I haven't found deteriorating performance but as I have gotten used to the systems idiosyncrasies found it to work well within limits and function consistently.

 

Originally I had been only using it for up shifts 2 through 6 with my wife on board and it is nice. Still don't use it to downshift with her onboard, as my peanut size organic computer does it smother. Lately I've been trying it solo and found a few things in my shifting technique I had to be aware of to have the system work right. I feel like I'm riding a bike with floor boards and a heal toe shifter being sure to return the ball of my foot to to the peg with each shift as I had to be sure that my toe was not touching the shift lever even slightly. I have a tendency to cover the lever in anticipation of the next shift and even the slightest deflection seems to block the next shift until the lever is absolutely in its neutral position. I found for downshifts the computer software seems to be very conservative not letting the RPMs get anywhere near let alone up to red line before it executes an assisted shift. In general I found the SA system doesn't behave all that well when accelerating and decelerationg more aggressively. I sure don't rely on SA to execute a downshift if I am setting up for a tight turn while blasting curvy roads or awesome off ramps because it sometimes takes a moment to execute and that delay could be fraught with peril.

 

I guess if it was an ala cart option I might have skipped it.

The shift assist hardware had to be replaced (under warranty) on my 2015 R1200RT. It may not be you and your technique. Go prostrate yourself before the service guy at your dealer.

I completed the following procedure (as described in a couple of different places on the internet) and the shift assist is working perfectly again

 

Started the bike in 1st and ran it in each gear for at least 10 seconds.

I was on the center stand (with all of my weight very forward!) and used the shift assist to upshift each time [i don't know that it matters if you use the shift assist or not]

When I was done in 6th gear, I used the clutch and downshifted all the way to 1st.

 

I took the bike for a ride after that and its working great now... Upshifts and downshifts are just like when I got the bike.

I have to go look that up. Seems like a weird process and not likely something documented by BMW as there is some risk of injury with an unexpected launch. Did any one offer a reasonable explanation why this would work beyond some bla bla bla about recalibration?

 

Oh and did ASC signal a fault? I think with the rear wheel whirring away while the front is dead stopped the computer would at least dial back on power to control what it thinks is a high slip situation. And if Progressive plugged into your black box they would raise your rates for ridding a wheeile through 6th gear...you wild man

 

 

I have to go look that up. Seems like a weird process and not likely something documented by BMW as there is some risk of injury with an unexpected launch. Did any one offer a reasonable explanation why this would work beyond some bla bla bla about recalibration?

 

Oh and did ASC signal a fault? I think with the rear wheel whirring away while the front is dead stopped the computer would at least dial back on power to control what it thinks is a high slip situation. And if Progressive plugged into your black box they would raise your rates for ridding a wheeile through 6th gear...you wild man

 

 

Its the only procedure that anyone suggested (other than "why bother using shift assist? etc...) so I tried it.

 

Believe me, an unexpected launch was very on my mind while I was doing this! I removed my trunk (because of the weight over the rear wheel) and was hunched way forward over my tank while I did it to keep the front wheel planted. The ABS lights were blinking anyway because I never moved the bike after starting it. I don't know if there was reduced power because it doesn't take much to spin the rear wheel when its up in the air.

 

The result has been positive, so at this point I would say it worked.

Pay close attention to 1) keeping throttle in either closed or open position (not trailing), which ever is warranted for the up or down shift 2) make the shift a very quick positive shift, not a slow lazy shift.

Edited May 25, 2017 by bobbybob

Pay close attention to 1) keeping throttle in either closed or open position (not trailing), which ever is warranted for the up or down shift 2) make the shift a very quick positive shift, not a slow lazy shift.

The major habit I had to overcome while using the GSAP was to avoid trying to "help" by moving the throttle, especially on downshifts. Positive and accelerating throttle on upshifts, hold the throttle closed on downshifts. My bike works great on downshifts, all the way to 1st and I find I am using 1st in places that I wouldn't downshift using the clutch. I still use the clutch 90% of the time on the 1-2 shift.

 

Frank