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Clutch Master Cylinder Rebuild kit


RTmutter

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My clutch is not disengaging when I pull the lever in. It seems that no pressure is building up in the line. I was looking for a rebuild kit for the clutch master cylinder but all I can find is the BMW kit, P/N 32727665445, which BMW is selling for around $90 (same kit for 2004 R1150RT and K1200GT). Does anyone know of a rebuild kit from another vendor at a reasonable cost?

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My clutch is not disengaging when I pull the lever in. It seems that no pressure is building up in the line. I was looking for a rebuild kit for the clutch master cylinder but all I can find is the BMW kit, P/N 32727665445, which BMW is selling for around $90 (same kit for 2004 R1150RT and K1200GT). Does anyone know of a rebuild kit from another vendor at a reasonable cost?

 

Afternoon RTmutter

 

What makes you think it is a master cylinder problem?

 

Is the master cylinder leaking? If not then it could be as easy a misadjusted push rod into the cylinder not allowing the piston to return far enough to uncover the take-up port.

 

Or possibly a plugged small hole in the bottom of the reservoir not allowing fluid to enter the cylinder area.

 

Also, don't count out the slave cylinder on rear of trans, those can get some wear so engine vibration on the push rod can cause the slave cylinder to take in air while riding & make the system go dead due to air in the fluid. (if clutch bleeding returns the clutch action then suspect this).

 

Or, if your master cylinder reservoir is now empty then suspect the fluid is escaping the slave cylinder & is now on your clutch disk (this can easily ruin your expensive clutch)

 

 

 

Edited by dirtrider
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My symptom wasa dry reservoir with no fluid on the ground so I do expect a leaking slave cylinder and all that goes with it. I'm in my denial phase now and looking at the easier part up top. I have the clutch line off at the I couldn't get pressure at the mater cylinder output port but I need to try that again. If I can't build pressure at the master cylinder, I was hoping for a cheap rebuild kit. I'm not sure that anyone other than Magura makes one and BMW won't let them sell direct to us lowly customers.

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My symptom wasa dry reservoir with no fluid on the ground so I do expect a leaking slave cylinder and all that goes with it. I'm in my denial phase now and looking at the easier part up top. I have the clutch line off at the I couldn't get pressure at the mater cylinder output port but I need to try that again. If I can't build pressure at the master cylinder, I was hoping for a cheap rebuild kit. I'm not sure that anyone other than Magura makes one and BMW won't let them sell direct to us lowly customers.

 

Afternoon RTmutter

 

You need to get some fluid down into the master cylinder bore before is will pump anything but air. (verify that the small hole in the bottom of the reservoir is open & allowing fluid through)

 

If the master cylinder was empty (with no signs of external leaking) then you best be looking at the slave cylinder. That missing fluid is probably on the clutch disk & THAT will quickly fry your clutch from slippage.

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I will try to verify if the master cylinder is working properly just so I know for sure. After that, I guess I will have to tear down to get to the slave cylinder and beyond. If I get the clutch plate exposed, can I tell visually whether or not it is damaged or contaminated? Not looking forward to a job like this just as the summer heat kicks in!

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I will try to verify if the master cylinder is working properly just so I know for sure. After that, I guess I will have to tear down to get to the slave cylinder and beyond. If I get the clutch plate exposed, can I tell visually whether or not it is damaged or contaminated? Not looking forward to a job like this just as the summer heat kicks in!

 

Afternoon RTmutter

 

Problem is you can't see much of the clutch disk without removing the transmission.

 

If the slave cylinder is leaking (my guess is that it is) you can try removing the starter then (after you get the clutch system repaired & bled) zip tie the clutch lever to the grip.

 

Then with trans in gear spin the rear wheel while you try to spray brake clean in/on the clutch disk.

 

If the clutch doesn't slip under heavy engine load in a higher gear then you might have dodged the bullet.

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Thank you very much dirtrider. I think I can visualize what you are saying and I will definitely try that when I get to that point. If fluid got past the slave to where it shouldn't be, is there any way to remove the fluid without pulling the transmission?

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Thank you very much dirtrider. I think I can visualize what you are saying and I will definitely try that when I get to that point. If fluid got past the slave to where it shouldn't be, is there any way to remove the fluid without pulling the transmission?

 

Afternoon RTmutter

 

Not really as the majority has probably already seeped out of the trans housing to engine block mate up (no gasket or seal there). Do you see any signs of leaked fluid at bottom of trans to engine mate up?

 

What got on the clutch disk is already there so not much you can do there except try to clean it best possible.

 

If the fluid seeped out very slowly over a long period of riding then hopefully not a lot of clutch disk damage.

 

Before you get too carried away you might go back over ALL the clutch lines & hoses (including the clutch remote bleeder hose) to see if you missed a seep at a fitting or hose joint.

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Away from home for a few days but I will look for leaks at the engine/transmission interface when I get back. I did a flush on the clutch line about 3 months ago and have not noticed any problems until this weekend. BTW, I used Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 synthetic for the refill. Any chance that may have caused a seal failure (DOT 4 is what is recommended)?

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Away from home for a few days but I will look for leaks at the engine/transmission interface when I get back. I did a flush on the clutch line about 3 months ago and have not noticed any problems until this weekend. BTW, I used Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 synthetic for the refill. Any chance that may have caused a seal failure (DOT 4 is what is recommended)?

 

Afternoon RTmutter

 

No, that fluid is just fine.

 

You might look closely at the clutch remote bleed (fill) hose check valve as those can sometimes seep after a clutch bleed.

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