R1200 RT Brake Issues / Warning / Heated Seat Indicator

Hello All,

I have a bit of a problem. After replacing my battery, due to its age, I have been dealing with the alternating break failure light and the triangle on my servo brake system.

I brought it to an independent in Denver with a great reputation, that has more work than he can handle. He read the codes and reset them. The code indicated that the ABS circuit was low in fluid. But, the system was flushed exactly 1 year and 12 days ago. Because of my neck surgery, I have only been able to put 4K miles on the bike this year. With 72K miles, the front pads are warn, still working well, and I had plans to change them after a little while.

After contacting BMW of Denver, their contention is that the pads have warn down enough to use up enough of the brake fluid to cause that condition. I know how I have been riding that bike, and I have been babying it since I have Conti-Motion tires on it and I wanted to see how many miles I could get out of them if I took it easy. I have been very light on the brakes during that period. So I don't really see how the volume of brake fluid could have been depleted that much. I would be happy to add fluid if I didn't have to take off the gas tank to get to the cylinder to do so.

Now, BMW of Denver is telling me that Corporate has upgraded the brake flush to every year and 12K instead of 2 years which was 4 years. I am a bit confused about this whole thing. They were willing to install the new pads that I have for 60.00 and then see if that was good enough to cause the error status to go away. I'm willing to do that. I do not believe it is reasonable to have to flush the brakes every year at almost 400.00. That is ridiculous. Especially in a dry climate like Colorado.

Does anyone with extensive experience with the brakes have any suggestions on how I should proceed? Up to this point, I have been doing most of my own maintenance including everything but the brake flush.

Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

My second problem is a strange occurance with heated grips and seat indicator. After I changed the battery, when I activate the heated grips,the indicator (dots) do not show up unless I activate the heated seats. And both dots show up as well as the line from the seats. But, if the heated grips are off, and the seat is on, the dots show up anyway. If I change the position of the grips switch, and the heated seat is on, it will toggle the grip indictor from one to two dots. But, again, the grip indicator will not show up unless the heated seat is on.

As in the previous description, any help would be appreciated.

Evening rglassma

What year 1200RT are you working with????

Different year 1200RT's had different brake systems.

'05

My second problem is a strange occurance with heated grips and seat indicator. After I changed the battery, when I activate the heated grips,the indicator (dots) do not show up unless I activate the heated seats. And both dots show up as well as the line from the seats. But, if the heated grips are off, and the seat is on, the dots show up anyway. If I change the position of the grips switch, and the heated seat is on, it will toggle the grip indictor from one to two dots. But, again, the grip indicator will not show up unless the heated seat is on.

Based on my own '06 RT, and a quick look at the owner's manual, there are no indicator lights for the grip heat. The only grip-related "dots" are on the switch.

I do not have heated seats, but according to the manual the dash displays two dots to the left of the seat icon to represent high/low rider seat heat, the two to the right are for the passenger seat.

Thanks for the info Larry. Maybe I just spaced that. I guess I should read the manual again. It has been a while.

Yes I see it now. My mistake. Please disregard my query.

Mornings rglassma

OK, a 2005 RT so you have I-ABS brakes.

The code indicated that the ABS circuit was low in fluid. --Did they by chance tell you WHAT brake circuit was low? If we don't know what end then we have to assume the it could be either front or rear wheel circuit that is low.

After contacting BMW of Denver, their contention is that the pads have warn down enough to use up enough of the brake fluid to cause that condition. I know how I have been riding that bike, and I have been babying it since I have Conti-Motion tires on it and I wanted to see how many miles I could get out of them if I took it easy. I have been very light on the brakes during that period. So I don't really see how the volume of brake fluid could have been depleted that much. I would be happy to add fluid if I didn't have to take off the gas tank to get to the cylinder to do so.-- Adding fluid is the usual place to start. It could be something else BUT if it shows low fluid so you really should start with that.

Now, BMW of Denver is telling me that Corporate has upgraded the brake flush to every year and 12K instead of 2 years which was 4 years. I am a bit confused about this whole thing.--Yes, me too. Last bulletin that I have shows 2 years IF The bike has Stahlflex brake lines. Your 2005 1200RT has the

Stahlflex brake lines. The dealer might be confused as bikes with rubber brake lines were moved to 1 year. In any case, with your usage, & relatively dry weather you should have no problems going 2 years between flushes.

They were willing to install the new pads that I have for 60.00 and then see if that was good enough to cause the error status to go away. I'm willing to do that. .-- That would be a good place to start as you really should replace them anyhow. If the problem goes away then run it out until the light comes back on then have the system flushed.

Does anyone with extensive experience with the brakes have any suggestions on how I should proceed? Up to this point, I have been doing most of my own maintenance including everything but the brake flush.-- THIS, depends on how much that YOU want to get involved or pay to have done. In the past I have been able to add a little brake fluid back into the brake controller (under the gas tank) by forcing a little fresh brake fluid in through a caliper bleed screw (you won't get a dealer to do this though). Problem is, it isn't for a first timer as ALL the air needs to be out of the fluid, hose, bleed screw area BEFORE forcing air-free fluid into the under-tank controller. Even then, you need to know what end is the end that is low on fluid.

If it was MY bike I would FIRST install new front brake pads (very easy to do)-- then see in the dash warning light goes out & stays out. If the light stays out then I would force about 1/2 to 3/4 ounces of (air-free) brake fluid into one of the front caliper bleeder screws.

If the front pads & fluid addition doesn't work then do the same on the rear (ie install new brake pads then force about 1/2 ounce of air-free brake fluid back in through the bleed screw)

If you are paying someone to work on your bike then maybe start with new brake pads all around & see where that leads.

The circuit affected is neither the front or the back. It is the one that is filled under the gas tank.

I just put new pads in the rear: EBC Sintered. I have already bought the front pads as well. Sounds to me like I really should just do the pads first. I could do them, but for 60.00, it is probably a good deal so I don't have to mess with it. But, it is always is good to learn.

I never believed the 1 year flush that the dealer was giving me. No way, no how. I have had that bike since 2007 and it has 72K on it and I have a local BMW mechanic tells me that 3 to 4 years is fine. I am just thinking it is a way for them to line their pockets more.

Both the front and rear masters are full of fluid.

Afternoon rglassma

The circuit affected is neither the front or the back. It is the one that is filled under the gas tank. --Unfortunately there are 2 reservoirs under the fuel tank. One for the front brakes & one for the rear brake. Sometimes it is talked about as one but in reality there are 2 reservoirs.

I just put new pads in the rear: EBC Sintered. I have already bought the front pads as well. Sounds to me like I really should just do the pads first. I could do them, but for 60.00, it is probably a good deal so I don't have to mess with it. But, it is always is good to learn.--New pads are a good place to start but your problem is still low brake fluid level so eventually it will have to be addressed.

I never believed the 1 year flush interval that the dealer was giving me. --There is a one year but that is for bikes with rubber brake hoses. You dealer probably only remembered the 1 year part.

So, should I just let the dealer do it?

So, should I just let the dealer do it?

Afternoon rglassma

That depends on you, your willingness to take the job on, your tools, & your willingness to part with $60.00.

The front pads are real easy as you just pry the pads & pistons back as far as possible, then remove the pin safety clip, then pull the pad retaining pin out, then remove the pad cover. After that the pads just lift out.

If you got the pistons pried back in far enough then the new pads will slide in. If you didn't then you will have to fool around & push the pistons back into the caliper farther.

Then just put it back together.

The rear is a bit more difficult as the retaining safety clip is removed then the retaining pin is driven out towards the wheel. BUT THEN you have to remove (unbolt) the rear caliper to get the pads out & back in. Then the caliper gets reinstalled & the bolts correctly torqued pin & safety clip reinsatlled.

I've already done the rears multiple times with no trouble at all. I do most of my own maintenance with the exception of the brake flush. But, what I am missing is a GS911.

When it comes to things like this that I have no experience with, I do not just go blindly into the night. I really need direction so that I don't screw things up. So, in essence, what I am hearing, is that I might as well just put the brake pads on by removing the front wheel, installing the pads. But, whether I remove the tank or not, I am ultimately going to need to remove the tank and fill the two cylinders anyway (of course that makes sense).

When it comes to things like this that I have no experience with, I do not just go blindly into the night. I really need direction so that I don't screw things up. So, in essence, what I am hearing, is that I might as well just put the brake pads on by removing the front wheel, installing the pads. But, whether I remove the tank or not, I am ultimately going to need to remove the tank and fill the two cylinders anyway (of course that makes sense).

Morning rglassma

You shouldn't need to remove the front wheel to replace the brake pads. You just need to push the caliper pistons back into the calipers far enough to get the new pads in. Do one side at a time & one pad at a time.

I usually pry the old brake pad back as far as possible (caution don't damage the brake rotor when prying) doing one pad at a time.

When changing the brake pads put a little (very/very little) brake pad anti-seize on the sides of the metal part of the brake pads & just a little on the rear of pad where it contacts the caliper pistons (caution: be very carful to not get any anti-seize lube on the actual brake material!!)

If the new pads make your brake failure warning go out then that pretty well points to low fluid levels in the ABS controller reservoir(s). You can wait to re-fill them until a brake flush is needed or until the new pads wear enough to lower the levels enough to bring the brake warning back on.

I just saw a video on youtube. I didn't realize it was that easy.

Thank you dirt rider. That was really easy. Far easier than the rear. After forcing the plungers in to get the pads in on both sides, it must have put the fluid back in the master cylinders under the tank and walla!!!! The bike started up without the alternating light on again. I haven't ridden it so I can be absolutely sure. But, the lights were alternating before I did the work on the center stand. They are not alternating now. Only the standard warning is one before you take off.

I did test the front brake by spinning the wheel. Works just fine.

You have just made my week !!!! If you are ever in Denver, look me up. I'll buy you a beer and we can have dinner. Email: bob_glassman@yahoo.com.

Thank you thank you thank you sir.

Bob

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