Engine Oil....what are you using?? I have a hint for you.

Ok, so I purchased this bike last year in September from a nice gentleman in Denver Colorado.

He gave me some story of his wife having MS, and she couldn't ride anymore....ok.

When purchasing the bike, he gave me every accessory for the bike. One being a spare oil pouch, with oil and paper funnels. I asked if the oil in the pouch was the same as the engine. He responded that is was, for the service department put it in there. (Book was stamped by Bavarian Motorcycles West of Colorado. Can provide a scan if needed)

The bottle was labeled Castro Activo 20w50 Part Synthetic motor oil. I knew the bike manual required full synthetic oil, and was perplexed why the bike had a blend oil.

I didn't ask too much about the bike. It ran fine, rode fine, but it just wasn't what I fully expected from a BMW 1200 bike power wise (total BMW noob as the purchase time). But it looked great. In good shape on the outside.

So about 1000 miles ago, the bike told me it was time for service. I agreed, and ordered Amsoil for the change. Oil, tranny, and final drive oil in one service. (54000 miles) (Also Air filter change)

Here is where the story gets interesting. The first time I crank the bike after changing all the fluids, I couldn't believe how it sounded. It was twice as loud. No joke, no BS. Next the bike was a little more towards the 1200 attitude. I thought, damn, that is some great oil.

Now a 1000 miles later, I have a theory what happened, and why you should use a very high end synthetic oil.

The catalytic converter was full of soot, and because the motor had blow by, the converter had a hard time staying at temp due to the new soot.

The synthetic oil unstuck the rings, stopped the blow by and let the catalytic converter burn out.

My brother actually ask me when I got the new bike. I said, "I've had it for a while." He asked if it was the same BMW. I assured he it was. He couldn't believe all I had done was change the oil.

Now also I have considered the flap valve in the exhaust may have been stuck. That would also explain all of the happenings except for one. The fact the engine quit using oil.

Use what is recommended or better people.

Edit. Just for information. I never run the bike under 3 grand while riding. I mean I take off normal, but cruise at or above 3100.

James L

Morning James

I guess I don't buy the oil making that much difference. If it sooted the Cat with Castro Activo 20w50 then that bike has SERIOUS engine internal problems that just switching to a different oil won't correct.

Same with the rings, if they were stuck from using Castro Activo 20w50 then they would be stuck forever.

You did change the air filter & that would probably have WAY more influence on engine performance than a different oil would.

Oil discussion....

2012 R1200R bought new.

Using Dino 10-40, changing every 3,000. 51,000 miles, does not use enough to have to add between changes.

Problems... Zero.

If your rings were stuck, you would know it. It would smoke blue and use a LOT of oil.

Change the oil on time and enjoy.

David

I can only say this:

The bike was using a quart of oil every 3000 miles. Since change, it hasn't use a drop.

The air filter was dirty, but wasn't really needing a change (did pass light). I did it to have a new filter at the time of change.

You don't have to believe what I say, but I'm a very knowledgeable mechanic, and have never seen this event before with any engine.

James L

EDIT: I did check and it has been 2500 miles since oil change.

(just for reference, I'm an Aviation technician-Avionics, and also an automation technician. I also work on all my toys except for my car. I won't touch a new car.)

Morning James

 

I guess I don't buy the oil making that much difference. If it sooted the Cat with Castro Activo 20w50 then that bike has SERIOUS engine internal problems that just switching to a different oil won't correct.

 

Same with the rings, if they were stuck from using Castro Activo 20w50 then they would be stuck forever.

 

You did change the air filter & that would probably have WAY more influence on engine performance than a different oil would.

 

I don't necessarily believe that.

I know that the BMW boxer has a nikasil bore. Dino oil tends to slip past rings on nikasil. Synthetic uses a thinner layer of oil, therefore less oil can pass the rings.

I have no study or proof of this, but it does speak as to why they specify synthetic.

James L

Oil discussion....

 

2012 R1200R bought new.

Using Dino 10-40, changing every 3,000. 51,000 miles, does not use enough to have to add between changes.

 

Problems... Zero.

 

If your rings were stuck, you would know it. It would smoke blue and use a LOT of oil.

 

Change the oil on time and enjoy.

David

I don't use dino oil in anything.

I was changed when I rebuilt a motor that was run on nothing but high grade synthetic. The motor looked brand new inside except for the valve seat and the damage caused (known problem for this particular car and engine). I have rebuild many engine on dino and there is always varnish, and the evidence the motor has been a long time since last opening.

Its not that I dislike dino oil, I've just experienced the benefits of synthetics first hand.

I think a quart every 3000 miles is a lot.

James L

Oh, and just fyi.

The bike never showed any visible smoke. Not that I've seen.

James L

Its a free country.

I never said I use a quart every 3,000 miles. I said I do not have to add between changes. The window is 1/2 quart top to bottom and it gets to about 1/2 way down (one cup) in 3,000 miles.

All the way to the bottom (one pint) if I run it really hard and High RPM a lot.

Use what works for you.

I have a 99 F350 diesel, 309,000 miles. Dino only. I have a 2000 R1100RT 140,000 miles. Dino only. Many cars over 200,000 miles.

You are correct on your bike. Changing the oil to full synthetic made it run faster. You should go with what works.

I am correct on my bike. It has been 50,000 and I expect at least another 50,000 out of it.

Enjoy your bike

David

Associate's degree in auto Tech (1980)

I own a shop and we do fleet maintenance.

James, I'm following your R1200 saga with interest as it just doesn't make complete sense the oil change making all the difference. Mind you I'm a fan of synthetic oil too and use it even in my lawn mower. The other two changes other than the oil was the air filter and the rider. A restricted air filter (not guaranteed to be visible to the eye) when changed could reasonably make a real difference. Also easy to assume the engine has to be run in at your mileage, but if never run hard I'm not absolutely sure. Why I say that is the cylinder lining on modern BMW's is very hard and easy riding may never seat the rings properly? I have direct experience with Nigasil as my 86' Moto Guzzi Lemans came with that cylinder treatment and it achieved peak power production much below 10k miles . My BMW was much more resistant to ring seating. I noticed a real difference on my R1200 after running 'the dragon' in second gear (as advised by a GS riding friend) pretty hard at 4,500 miles. My engine continued to get small gains in power like that flat spot below 3,100 rpms up to at least 12k miles. This all confirms a very hard cylinder wall coating. I thought I'd heard that BMW was using an advanced nickel-ceramic composite evolution of Nigasil, but I can't find any references on-line now to that effect? So if you have given your BMW some stick, that may have helped if never run hard in the past I don't know. BTW, my BMW has never used much oil even when new.

James, I'm following your R1200 saga with interest as it just doesn't make complete sense the oil change making all the difference. Mind you I'm a fan of synthetic oil too and use it even in my lawn mower. The other two changes other than the oil was the air filter and the rider. A restricted air filter (not guaranteed to be visible to the eye) when changed could reasonably make a real difference. Also easy to assume the engine has to be run in at your mileage, but if never run hard I'm not absolutely sure. Why I say that is the cylinder lining on modern BMW's is very hard and easy riding may never seat the rings properly? I have direct experience with Nigasil as my 86' Moto Guzzi Lemans came with that cylinder treatment and it achieved peak power production much below 10k miles . My BMW was much more resistant to ring seating. I noticed a real difference on my R1200 after running 'the dragon' in second gear (as advised by a GS riding friend) pretty hard at 4,500 miles. My engine continued to get small gains in power like that flat spot below 3,100 rpms up to at least 12k miles. This all confirms a very hard cylinder wall coating. I thought I'd heard that BMW was using an advanced nickel-ceramic composite evolution of Nigasil, but I can't find any references on-line now to that effect? So if you have given your BMW some stick, that may have helped if never run hard in the past I don't know. BTW, my BMW has never used much oil even when new.

I actually considered many things before posting. I agree since I've only owned the bike for 8500 miles, the change of riders, could make a change. The suprise was how abrupt the change happened. It was a light off/ light on situation.

I've hear stories of high oil usage from BMW boxers. Mostly they were from the rings not seating. One guy went so far as to hone his cylinders to fix the oil issue.

If it had happened over time, I wouldn't have noticed it, nor would my brother.

I can't say what happened, I can just say this bike is different after my owning it, and servicing it.

I'm going to enjoy it.

Use what you like, but I can't find any simple explanation of the event.

James L

I've hear stories of high oil usage from BMW boxers

Since the 'oil heads' forward I wouldn't be surprised if it is from overfilling. With the thermostat controlled oil cooler of the 4 valve head 'R' models prior to the current 'wet head', not all the oil will return to the sump on short rides. Results in a half full sight glass because some oil is still stored in the oil cooler. The only time I would add any oil to my bike is if the sight glass is a bit low after I know the engine was run at full operating temp without any cooling stops prior to parking.

Just as a follow up comment. I also NEVER park my bike on the side stand. I also only add oil when the bike states it needs it.

My opinion is to get the most accurate oil level I check it after it sat idle overnight or even longer with the bike on the center stand. By this time the oil is at ambient temperature and a safe bet most of the oil has worked it's way down to the crankcase. Checking your oil after 10 minutes or during fuel stops is not a problem as long as you are aware that oil levels will vary if you do not check it using the same method. Use whatever method suits you as long as it's consistent and the oil level is within acceptable levels.

Morning James

 

I guess I don't buy the oil making that much difference. If it sooted the Cat with Castro Activo 20w50 then that bike has SERIOUS engine internal problems that just switching to a different oil won't correct.

 

Same with the rings, if they were stuck from using Castro Activo 20w50 then they would be stuck forever.

 

You did change the air filter & that would probably have WAY more influence on engine performance than a different oil would.

 

Guess I've only seen about 15-20,000 BMW's serviced, so no expert.

Never seen or heard this before.

Anything is possible, but...

and 3,100 rpm's is lugging the bike.

Something changed, OK.

But without seeing the bike history, riding habits or original owner, and much more, hard to attribute.

I've seen oil reduction and throttle response change with change in riding habits, on lower mileage bikes.

Hope someone else has a similar outcome.

It's a miracle. Your a lucky guy!