Break Falure warning light 02 1150 RT

The "break" warning light came on when I started my 02 1150RT yesterday. I can hear the relay clicking under the seat. The Front brake got spongy and did not work but the bake brake seem to be ok. Is there a way to test the relay? Both fluid levels ok.

Thanks

Dan

The "break" warning light came on when I started my 02 1150RT yesterday. I can hear the relay clicking under the seat. The Front brake got spongy and did not work but the bake brake seem to be ok. Is there a way to test the relay? Both fluid levels ok.

 

Thanks

Dan

I doubt the relay you hear clicking is your problem since it only operates the warning light and you warning light is working. The front brake should not be spongy with the key off either. Have you checked what happens with the key off for the front brake? If it is spongy then also I would think there might be a problem with the front master cylinder. Also, you said that both fluid levels are ok. You need to check the level in four places. The front and rear master cylinders and under the tank time two.

There are two warning lights. How are they blinking, fast, slow, solid?

I've got a wiring diagram for the ABS but I don't see anyway to attach a file. If you're interested in it let me know and I'll email it to you.

Thanks for the reply...relay blinking fast, the front brake feels pretty solid with the key off. But would not stop the bike yesterday, only the back break seemed to work...

Make sure that your rear brake light is working. If it's staying on all the time then you probably have a brake light switch stuck. There are two warning lights for the brake system. Are they both blinking fast, just the top, just the bottom? If I knew exactly how these two lights were working I could tell you more.

The top light labled "Break Failure" blinks fast. The light below, with the caution triangle is on constant. The servo does not actuate when I pull the front brake, but when I step on the back break the servo comes one and stays on. The break light is working...

I pulled the abs relay and all the fuses, cleaned the connections w CRC electrical connection spray

Dan

Unfortunately the fault signal you are getting means at least one brake circuit without ABS, which you already knew. I would suggest if you can find someone with a GS911 diagnostic tool and get them to read the stored fault in your ABS unit. I believe they get a more detailed code for any given fault. I'm located near Baltimore, MD and wouldn't mind driving a reasonable distance to read the code with my GS911. If you can't find someone with a GS911 or just want to try a repair yourself you may try doing a brake fluid flush. It won't hurt to try. Also check the condition and gap of your ABS wheel sensors.

I'm in Round Rock Texas, just north of Austin. There is a guy in Austin that works on BMW. I'll try the flush as the guy I bought the bike from had the tools and the procedure printed out in a binder. Looked at the front sensor yesterday and it seemed ok, so I guess it time to start stripping the bike naked so I can get started down this road...

Thanks for your posts.

Dan

I had similar symptoms on a R1200Rt (2006) - iABS I think? Tried all sorts and ended up removing the abs/servo unit....been fab ever since.

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=984042&page=1

Yes, I'm considering that for sure thanks for the link!

Farmerboy, where did you get the procedure to do the conversion?

I found some instructions on the web but cannot remember the location...sorry. I think I googled servoectomy or something similar. It ended up being quite simple and cost nothing except some fresh brake fluid. The brakes are superb without the abs/servo unit. Do not hesitate to remove if you are not bothered about abs.

The only thing to consider is whether the electronic stuff still works...speedo, brake lights, cruise control.... as it gets more complex to resolve. Assuming all electrical stuff still works just leave them connected after removing the abs unit. (waterproof it!)

I shall be in Houston on 5th July so could talk you through the process if required. Takes a while because of all the stuff that needs to be removed but it is not "technically" difficult. You end up with a huge lump of aluminium (servo unit) on the garage floor, master cylinders connected direct to respective brakes and the big electrical connector sealed up against the weather. No new parts were needed in my case...2006 R1200RT - just used existing pipework. No problem with UK insurance company.

Yes, I'm considering that for sure thanks for the link!

Morning Gravelpounder

Just keep in mind that you guys are talking about different bikes with significant brake controller differences.

Your 1150RT doesn't process the speedometer signal through the ABS controller & doesn't have a CAN input/output to the brake controller.

Basically you need the procedure for an 1150Rt not the 1200RT bike.

Basically on your 1150RT you can remove the entire ABS controller, jumper the tail light wiring at the old ABS connector then use the removed ABS relay ( & some wires) to get the reverse logic brake light switches to correctly operate the brake light.

Farmerboy, where did you get the procedure to do the conversion?

Hi Gravelpounder I have a pdf walkthru for abs removal on an R1150RT. If you want a copy of it, pm me with your email address and i will send it to you.

ModuleMaster.com can repair some iABS modules. I contacted them yesterday about the possibility of repair the iABS module from my 04 RT. My iABS module has what appears to be a bad control board. It is completely dead. Their response was "We are able to repair some electronic issues in the control module. As long as it hasn't been flooded in brake fluid or corrosion there's a good chance it's fixable. Rebuild price is $150. Feel free to send the module in and we'll take a look at it." You may want to contact them about repairing yours.

I had similar faults and took it to the dealer. The ABS relay was not making good contact. They cleaned them and it has been fine since. You might want to try that.

I had similar faults and took it to the dealer. The ABS relay was not making good contact. They cleaned them and it has been fine since. You might want to try that.

Afternoon RoanokeRider

Dan's bike is an 1150RT, that bike doesn't have an external ABS relay (ABS power relay) as the 1150 I-ABS gets it's power direct from the rear of alternator. The 1150 has an ABS light relay but that doesn't effect the ABS servo operation.

Plus we know his ABS controller is getting power as the rear servo is working.

Would a flush of the ABS be a waist of time? I thought I saw on one of the forums that this worked for someone. Have all the tools and a print out of the procedure,from the previous owner..

Would a flush of the ABS be a waist of time? I thought I saw on one of the forums that this worked for someone. Have all the tools and a print out of the procedure,from the previous owner..

Evening Gravelpounder

More than likely a waste of time & brake fluid unless your problem is caused by low fluid level in the controller.

But, if you are going to take the plastic & tank off to remove the ABS system then you can give it a quick flush & bleed with little extra effort.

You really should try to get real time brake failure codes so you know where you are headed (usually turns out to be an internal pressure switch). Unless they have just recently found a source I don't think Module Masters can repair an internal pressure switch problem.

While you are in there try removing the re-seating the main connector at the ABS controller (with the rear system working I doubt this will help though)

Are you positive that the front brake switch is working? Can you hear it click as you slowly pull the front brake lever with engine off & in a quiet location?

Dirtrider

Thanks for responding, I did give a listen for the "clicks" and I can hear them front and back.

Also checked the ABS sensor gap and cleaned the sensor, about to pull the tank and give the controller a visual to see if there is any break fluid leaks. Any thing else I should look for?

Thanks

Dan

You need to check the fluid level in the ABS module under the tank. Your error code didn't indicate low fluid level but you should check it anyway.

Dirtrider

 

Thanks for responding, I did give a listen for the "clicks" and I can hear them front and back.

 

Also checked the ABS sensor gap and cleaned the sensor, about to pull the tank and give the controller a visual to see if there is any break fluid leaks. Any thing else I should look for?

 

Evening Dan

The sensor gaps won't prevent brake power servo operation, will give you no ABS function & a dash warning light but your power braking should still work OK.

If the servo reservoirs are full then you might try lightly beating on the ABS controller with a rubber mallet or rawhide mallet, or even a piece of wood. If the front servo then starts working again that will tell you something. Unfortunately it really fixes nothing so the servo failure will probably return at a future time.

Added: another thing to try before removing plastic & the fuel tank is to turn the key on, then squeeze the front lever hard, then sort of let you fingers slip off the brake lever so the lever snaps forward quickly. (this can allow a quick pressure reversal & m-i-g-h-t dislodge a piece of gunk if it is caught in the front internal control pressure switch circuit. If by a slim chance this gets it working then definitely do a servo flush & bleed.

Ok will do...

Thanks again,

Dan

Kioolt,

thanks for that Info on ModuleMaster. I have their web site bookmarked.

Dan