R1100RT ABS sensor ring removal - Front wheel

Hi, I had to replace my front rotors on my 98 R1100RT, I opted to get the whole assembly from Motobins, it seemed the best solution since the spacers were all worn.

The screw holes are there for the ABS ring but damned if I can remove the ring off the old plate. I can feel that the screw head will chew out!!

I am starting to think the best method is grind the heads off, or drill them off and get a new set of screws.

Any advice appreciated.

ABS sensor ring removal

Not to bother, I drilled them out, was quite easy.

The ring has been fitted to a new rotor with horrible Locktite!!

I used a heat gun when I replaced mine, and the screws came right out.

Out of curiosity, how many miles/km did you get from the original rotors? I replace mine at 103,445 miles.

Yes, the screws probably have loctite on them. Apply heat - yeah I know, you already cut them away.

Selden, since you asked, my R1100RT has 165k miles. The original front rotors are now below minimum spec, measuring 4.36 mm. I have replacements ready to mount.

Tried heating them but still wouldn't budge, I found 6 suitable screws and put them on using medium grade loctite.

When I picked the bike up a few years ago I was told I needed to have them replaced or I could get an "unroadworthy sticker".

This was at 56,000Kms, they have now done 82,000Km and were getting rather loose/floppy so I decided to change them.

Cost me $580 with pads delivered to Australia, funny how they sell them singularly instead of a pair.

Here in Australia they want $450 each rotor, same brand as well (brembo).

Tried heating them but still wouldn't budge, I found 6 suitable screws and put them on using medium grade loctite.

Morning Reecehk

The factory bolts are not Loc-tited (costs way too much time to have assembly workers apply Loc-tie to each bolt).

The factory bolts have a microencapsulation pre-applied to the bolt threads (kind of plastic-like locking compound).

It takes a LOT of heat to break that microencapsulation loose so I usually use a small pin-point butane torch directly on the bolt head (once the proper heat amount is figured out they usually come right out)

Well I'm glad they are out anyway!!!

I have a new problem, every time I push a plunger in the calipers another pops out!! I have been battling with this for hours and getting absolutely nowhere!! They are brembo calipers.

I managed to get a block of wood wedged to cover the 4 plungers but no amount of leverage or twisting helps, maybe I should bolt them back on the fork.

Well I'm glad they are out anyway!!!

I have a new problem, every time I push a plunger in the calipers another pops out!! I have been battling with this for hours and getting absolutely nowhere!! They are brembo calipers.

I managed to get a block of wood wedged to cover the 4 plungers but no amount of leverage or twisting helps, maybe I should bolt them back on the fork.

Morning Reecehk

I usually just toss an old set of worn brake pads in then use a caliper tool to spread the pads & push the pistons all in at the same time. If you can get some old pads in the caliper or something to fit over both pistons on each side you can use a couple of pieces of steel strap or even wood strips to force the pistons apart. (I have even used small deep C clamps to push caliper pistons back in)

You can try putting the calipers back over the brake rotors as that will give you something to push against. Just be careful to not damage the brake rotors. Also be careful when working on one side that you don't push a piston all the way out of the caliper on the opposite side caliper.

Again don't worry, I put them back on the forks and was able to get leverage on the piece of timber and all went well.

Now in the process of putting it all back together!