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#991019 - 07/01/17 05:00 AM Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT  
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Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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South Australia
I just got all the new rotors and pads installed, I pulled the brake lever and it went all the way down to the hand grip!!
I pumped it up but with steady pressure just kept moving down to the grip.
I then discovered that the wheel was jammed tight, I could barely move it then suddenly the LH lower brake hose swelled and burst!! confused
Now I am in a fix, I assume I'll now have to replace the lower 2 hoses (minimum) and bleed the brakes.
But what caused the pressure build up and the wheel to lock up?
If I repair it what's to stop it from happening again? Where did I go wrong?
Please Help! dontknow

I just had a horrible thought, it's ABS, I probably should have had the bike running, the manual never mentioned anything. Could there be any damage to the, I assume, power assistance??

#991024 - 07/01/17 10:26 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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eddd Offline
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Most likely the inner lining of the hose deteriorated to the point where a piece of that lining got loose and acted like a one way valve. Pressure was built up as you pumped the brakes, but it was unable to return to normal.

The fact that the hose burst is a clear indication that the integrity of the hose had been compromised allowing fluid to leak passed the inner lining and rupture the outer covering. I'm guessing the hose(s) were in a weaken condition prior to you working on the rotors, and removing the calipers was enough to cause the problem.



12 Kawasaki EX650
13 Yamaha XT250
16 KTM RC 390
96 R1100RT - forced retirement at 175,000

#991025 - 07/01/17 10:30 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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dirtrider Offline
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Originally Posted By: Reecehk
I just got all the new rotors and pads installed, I pulled the brake lever and it went all the way down to the hand grip!!
I pumped it up but with steady pressure just kept moving down to the grip.
I then discovered that the wheel was jammed tight, I could barely move it then suddenly the LH lower brake hose swelled and burst!! confused
Now I am in a fix, I assume I'll now have to replace the lower 2 hoses (minimum) and bleed the brakes.
But what caused the pressure build up and the wheel to lock up?
If I repair it what's to stop it from happening again? Where did I go wrong?
Please Help! dontknow

I just had a horrible thought, it's ABS, I probably should have had the bike running, the manual never mentioned anything. Could there be any damage to the, I assume, power assistance??


Morning Reecehk

Difficult to tell what happened from here but it might be as simple as the hose that burst had the inner liner break or split then act like a check valve as the hydraulic pressure got behind the lining & ballooned it into the fluid passageway.

It doesn't sound an ABS controller problem but nothing is assured.

Did the front wheel unlock after the hose burst? If so then it was more that likely that hose inner liner causing the lock-up or possibly the master cylinder take-up port plugged then trapped pressure in the line. (small hole in bottom of master cylinder reservoir)-- If this hole is plugged, or the master cylinder piston isn't returning far enough to uncover that hole, then you probably won't be able to bleed the front brakes.

If you get good fresh brake hoses on that bike (all the hoses as they are probably all in the same condition) then you shouldn't be able to break or fail a hose just by pulling on the brake lever.


D.R. ___
Sent from my rotory dial wall phone!
#991026 - 07/01/17 10:31 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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szurszewski Offline
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Sorry to hear that, but very glad it happened in the garage, so to speak, and not out on the road.

Are these the original brake lines? If so, it's not a surprise that it burst - more of a surprise that it lasted this long.

It's possible that the lines were coming apart internally and you had a piece of line lodge somewhere preventing fluid from moving back away from the caliper, and then you pushed more down and it was too much for the lines.

Having installed new pads/rotors means you must have pushed the caliper pistons well back into the calipers, so it's normal that your lever was able to go all the way to the bar. That said, I'm always careful in that situation to gently work the lever less than the full travel - I'm no expert but I've been told that pulling it all the way will move the piston in the master cylinder further than it normally goes, which puts into territory that could have crystallized fluid/crud build up that might damage the seals up there.

When you did the pads/rotors, did you also bleed the brake circuits?

When you say you should have had the bike running, are we talking about an 1100? I am maybe mixing years up, but I thought that meant you would have non-servo brakes so it would not matter if the bike was running.

I'm sure you'll get better answers soon - good luck!
josh


EDIT: I type slowly - you ALREADY have better answers smile

Last edited by szurszewski; 07/01/17 10:32 AM.

*insert witty remark here*
#991027 - 07/01/17 11:26 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: szurszewski]  
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The bike is a 1998 R1100RT, All I did was to install the rotors and new pads, I was avoiding having to bleed it, was going to take it to a BMW mechanic. The brake lines are likely the originals.
Problem is the mechanic is over 200Kms away, I don't have much choice other than doing the job myself.
Once I get the tupperware off is it easy enough to get the hoses off without taking the petrol tank off?
I assume I am to replace the 4 hoses, anything else?
What's the easiest way to drain the existing fluid?
Is there a simple method of bleeding the brakes? I don't have any bleeding tools other than normal spanners etc.
Sorry about all the questions but I have never done this before only on an old car with drum brakes!! ohboy

#991030 - 07/01/17 11:42 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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I just put new brake rotors on my old CBR1000F and replaced the hoses with braided line at the same time . Its not a hard job , though I'd be surprised if you can do it without removing some of the bodywork on the Beemer . I bought a vacuum bleeder but I already have an air compressor . I believe that you can buy a hand vacuum bleeder .
I'll be changing the lines on my R1100RT soon to I think . It isn't very expensive to change them to braided line and the factory recommendation is replacement each five years I think .

#991032 - 07/01/17 12:19 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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dirtrider Offline
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Morning Reecehk

I was avoiding having to bleed it, was going to take it to a BMW mechanic. The brake lines are likely the originals.--You will definitely have to bleed it now as the fluid is gone & the new hoses will be full of air.

Problem is the mechanic is over 200Kms away, I don't have much choice other than doing the job myself.
Once I get the tupperware off is it easy enough to get the hoses off without taking the petrol tank off?
I assume I am to replace the 4 hoses, anything else?
--This kind of depends on what or how much you replace. You might look into a brake line replacement kit.

What's the easiest way to drain the existing fluid?--The front sounds like it is already drained (just put a hose on the bleeders screws then run that hose into a bottle or jar then open the bleeder screw & let the fluid run into the container. (just be VERY careful to not get any brake fluid on the bike's plastic, paint, or dash plastic as brake fluid will remove paint & ruin plastic)

Is there a simple method of bleeding the brakes? I don't have any bleeding tools other than normal spanners etc.
Sorry about all the questions but I have never done this before only on an old car with drum brakes!!
--With all the air you will have in it you will probably have to remove the fuel tank & bleed the ABS controller bleed fittings. BUT__ if you don't want to remove the fuel tank then you can just bleed from the master cylinder to the caliper bleed fitting as that will get most of the air out of the system (enough to ride the bike). Then you should be able to ride it to a repair facility for a full system bleeding.

Do you have any way to trailer the bike to the BMW mechanic? If so then the BMW mechanic can install the hoses & fully bleed the brakes.


D.R. ___
Sent from my rotory dial wall phone!
#991033 - 07/01/17 01:07 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: dirtrider]  
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Reecehk Offline
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This is turning into a nightmare!! It's winter here so getting it to the mechanic is going to be even more painful.
Maybe I will have to take the tank off, would be a good time to change the petrol filter!!
If I go ahead and take the petrol tank off is there a method that you could point to or do you know what is to be done?
The stupid manual says if it gets air trapped in the modulator then you have to take it to a BMW dealer!!

Edit: Does bleeding at the ABS under the tank mean the rear caliper has to be bled as well? I have no info on this, I was going to leave the rear for the mechanic to do later.

#991035 - 07/01/17 01:34 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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szurszewski Offline
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I would suggest as above that you purchase a kit of stainless brake lines - here in the US that is generally cheaper than buying the factory lines and they should last longer. In any case, you're going to need to replace the burst line (and if that one burst...well, the others are probably in the same shape - you really don't want one to rupture while you're on the road!).

If you are ok removing the body work, removing the tank is really not any harder - you will need to disconnect the fuel lines (mark them so you can put them back together the same way) and the electrical plugs, but it's really way less work than removing all the body screws was - not complicated.

You *can* actually get to the abs bleed ports by just lifting the rear portion of the tank (once the body work is removed) and blocking it up a few inches, but as you said you might as well replace the fuel filter while you're in there if it's due, or if you don't know when it was last done.

Here's a vid for you - I confess that I haven't watched it as our motel internet is very slow, but check it out. I did the lines on our K1200LT at the beginning of this trip in a friend's garage with only the instructions in the brake line kit package (and they really just said, remove this line, replace it with this one... and repeated that for each line). It took me a handful of hours, but mosty that was removing and replacing a lot of body work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qDYjAfwow8

You can do it - good luck!

Oh - you can manually bleed the brakes by hand. Just make a container from an old water bottle, put a hole in the lid to fit in some tubing that is sized to fit the bleeder. Helps to have someone to open/close the bleed valve, but if you put enough fluid in the container so you can't suck air back into the caliper you can use it as a one man bleeder. Just remember that after you have it bled and closed off, gently pump the brake lever (not full travel!) to get the pistons moved back into place before you try to ride the thing.

josh

edit: here's a DIY brake bleeder on youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wwq1Vlk4Wg

Last edited by szurszewski; 07/01/17 01:38 PM.

*insert witty remark here*
#991038 - 07/01/17 01:44 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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dirtrider Offline
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Morning Reecehk


Maybe I will have to take the tank off, would be a good time to change the petrol filter!!
If I go ahead and take the petrol tank off is there a method that you could point to or do you know what is to be done?
--Taking the tank off can be a challenge on the BMW 1100 as the 1100 didn't come with quick disconnects. (hopeful someone has added them in past as that makes tank removal easier)-- You C-A-N get to the ABS controller bleed screws by just lifting the rear of the tank up & propping it up while you work. Not easy to work but possible.

The stupid manual says if it gets air trapped in the modulator then you have to take it to a BMW dealer!!--No, you don't have to take it to a dealer. The dealer can run some bleeding tests & functions that you can't easily do at home but basically you CAN bleed & get the air out at home without dealer assistance.

Edit: Does bleeding at the ABS under the tank mean the rear caliper has to be bled as well? I have no info on this, I was going to leave the rear for the mechanic to do later. --No, on the BMW 1100 brake system you can do only one end. BUT!-- if you remove the tank, have all the bleeding equipment out & handy then might as well go ahead the do the rears also. (rear is easier than the front & you really SHOULD replace the rear rubber brake hose at this time as it probably isn't far behind the front hose on failure.

(IF)- you are planning on having a mechanic do the rear then you can probably do the front without bleeding the ABS controller bleeders or removing the fuel tank. You probably won't get ALL the air out of the front without bleeding at the ABS controller but you should be able to get enough out to easily ride the bike to the BMW mechanic.


D.R. ___
Sent from my rotory dial wall phone!
#991039 - 07/01/17 01:49 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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Lots of good advice.

My .02
No offense intended, we've all BTDT in some manner...
but, this is a "system", and it should be addressed as such,
not piecemeal.
So, take a deep breath, all the info is on the internet.
Before doing anything, research what is involved.
You'll need new lines.
You'll need fluid.
You'll need to replace lines, bleed system.
The fuel filter is another story.
Again, research the what to do/look for.

If you aren't comfortable after research, like many of us, stop.
125 miles isn't that far, IMO.
Get a trailer and take it there.
Hopefully they are good and will do it all correctly.

If you are going to do it all, print out pages with the steps, get all your parts, strip bike (sounds like you could do it) and take the opportunity to really clean/polish inside and outside of tupperware.
I used to do that every year.

There are other age related items, such as the Hall Sensor.
Has it been replaced/rewired?

Again, no offense intended.
Admirable to do the pads, but on a '98, well, the lines were on borrowed time, so inevitable they would go.
Best wishes.


If my mind wanders, should I follow it?
Tim
Conch Town Krewe
2003 K 1200 GT
1996 R 100 RSL
1980 R 100 RT
1972 R 75
1968 R 50
All now gone...

#991042 - 07/01/17 02:10 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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Take a deep breath Reecehik. The ABS II braking system on the R1100RT is really quite basic. You CAN do it yourself.

You should get a brake hose replacement kit. I would get some kind of teflon/stainless steel hose set, not replacement OEM rubber hoses. Figure that the rear rubber hose is in the same condition as the front and plan on replacing that too.

The ABS II system is a complete fluid line from lever to caliper with the ABS module sitting in the middle. The front and rear circuits are separate, even inside the ABS module it's two separate fluid lines.

It's possible to replace the lines and leave the gas tank on the bike, but it is easier to do this work with the gas tank off. If you haven't added quick disconnects, you will have to deal with gas coming from the fuel hoses when you disconnect them. Drain as much gas as you can from the tank. You have a bolt on the right side holding down the tank. There's an electric connection on the right side below that hold down bolt that get disconnected. Radio? You either remove/disconnect the radio box. No radio? Glove box is either left on or removed - easier to remove it.

Front brake circuit is easy. Once you replace the hoses, open the bleed valve and connect a clear tube to the bleeder emptying into a bag or bottle. Open the handlebar reservoir and fill with DOT4 brake fluid. The fluid will drain down the circuit on it's own unless the ports are clogged. You help it move quicker by gently moving the front brake lever in it's normal travel. Don't pull it all the way to the grip. Watch the fluid level in the top reservoir keep adding fluid. Fluid will soon come out from the bleeder. When the air bubbles stop and clear clean fluid comes out, close the bleeder. You should have fluid in the entire front circuit. If you want to you can put a clear hose on the ABS bleed valve (front) and open it for a second or two. Probably will get clean fluid out immediately but you might get an air bubble out. Make sure the reservoir is filled below maximum and close the reservoir. The lever should be firm with one or two pulls - maybe immediately. Brakes should release and grab normally.

Rear circuit is a little trickier. I will send that in another reply later.


Michael Stock, Trinity NC
01 R1100RT, R60/6, R100
#991068 - 07/01/17 08:14 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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Jim Moore Online
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Speiglers and Galfers both make replacement brake line kits. They're about $200-$250, so a little pricy, but not insane. You need to take the tank off. While you're doing that, you may want to consider a set of quick disconnects for the fuel lines. You may also want to consider replacing the fuel lines themselves. And what the hell, do the fuel filter and the internal lines too while you're at it.

Bleeding the lines is not a big deal at all. You need to bleed the nipple at the ABS too. I would consider buying a MityVac or something similar. That makes it a lot easier.

Good luck. Take your time. Ask questions as you go.

Jim


Jim Moore Jax, FL '99 R1100S '02 R1150GS
#991069 - 07/01/17 08:42 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: tallman]  
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Adding to Tallman's suggestions: take photos as you go along, especially of the internal tank fuel lines, if you decide to include that step (highly recommended). While you are at it, check thickness of brake rotors, which may be below minimum spec.

When I replaced the clutch on my '99 RT several years ago, digital photos were essential during the reconstruction process especially when I came across one electrical socket for which I could not find a corresponding plug. It turned out that nothing had ever been plugged in to that mystery connector!


Don't fix it if it ain't broke, don't break it if you can't fix it.
#991100 - 07/02/17 07:16 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: dirtrider]  
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Reecehk Offline
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Thanks All, I feel more confident to do the job myself and the mechanic is another expense that I don't need!!
I will have to watch the video's you mentioned Josh since I don't know how to bleed the ABS controller. I assume you bleed between the master cylinder and the ABS controller first then carry on to the calipers?
How will I know(or anyone) if there is still air in the ABS controller?

Hopefully the video will show all of this! thumbsup

Edit: OMG!! I didn't realize it had gone over the page, so I see I have more reading to do! smile

BTW, I have had the tupperware off quite a few times for various servicing such as replacing the serpentine belt, installing a new radio and others.

#991102 - 07/02/17 08:59 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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Jim Moore Online
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Bleeding at the ABS is just like bleeding at the calipers.

I'm sure there is a correct order, but I just go back and forth bleeding the calipers and the ABS module. Eventually the lever harde3ns up.


Jim Moore Jax, FL '99 R1100S '02 R1150GS
#991105 - 07/02/17 10:30 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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szurszewski Offline
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As Jim says, the ABS controller, for bleeding purposes, is just a block under the gas tank with bleed nipples - and it works just like bleeding at the calipers. In fact it's a little easier as you can reach it and the brake lever at the same time.


*insert witty remark here*
#991110 - 07/02/17 11:27 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: szurszewski]  
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Reecehk Offline
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Thank you all very much for the excellent very helpful suggestions. thumbsup
Concerning the 5 hose kit there are 2 brands available that I can get, both are about the same price, Goodridge and Galfer both braided stainless steel. confused The Goodridge is about $20 cheaper.

#991140 - 07/02/17 03:56 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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I've personally used Galfer on other bikes and never had a problem with their stuff. I get a lot of google hits for Goodgridge, even though I'd never heard of them so they probably wouldn't bother me. Either is surely better than 20 year old with a hole in it!


Scott
1999 R1100RT & some Hinkley Triumphs
#991204 - 07/03/17 01:34 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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Reecehk Offline
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I have sent off for the Galfer set! thumbsup

#991362 - 07/04/17 03:34 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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Hi Reecehk, could you please post the Galfer part number for the 5-piece kit you ordered? All I can find is for non-ABS bikes. Thanks.

Last edited by kalali; 07/04/17 03:35 PM.

1999 R1100R ABS
2000 Buell X1
1983 Honda CB650sc
#991366 - 07/04/17 04:26 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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szurszewski Offline
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Did you check their website?

http://galferusa.com/product/1998-bmw-r-1100-rt-abs-multiple-lines-fk003d173-5-2/

Google shows lots on eBay and elsewhere



Edit: that part is for the OP's bike. Are you looking for your R bike?

Last edited by szurszewski; 07/04/17 04:28 PM.

*insert witty remark here*
#991369 - 07/04/17 04:36 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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szurszewski Offline
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*insert witty remark here*
#991384 - 07/04/17 05:47 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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Thank you. I'll look at the links to see if I can only get lines for the fronts for my 1999 R1100R since the bike already has braided line for the rear.

Edited to add: I counted 6 lines including the one from the rear reservoir to the master cylinder but it appears that the kit(s) don't include that one line. Do you folks also replace that piece when replacing all the brake lines?

Last edited by kalali; 07/04/17 05:57 PM.

1999 R1100R ABS
2000 Buell X1
1983 Honda CB650sc
#991563 - 07/06/17 04:33 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: kalali]  
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Reecehk Offline
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Hi, sorry I hadn't checked the post for awhile, I purchased mine here:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/84-07-R1100RT-ABS-Galfer-5-Line-Complete-Brake-Line-Kit-Black-D173-5/371561162272?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I have got the tank off and replaced the filter, I was surprised to find the hoses were all ok, no cracks and still flexible.
Also ordered a vacuum brake bleeder, I think this would be easier especially with the rear brakes. smile

#991568 - 07/06/17 10:23 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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szurszewski Offline
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It seems those hoses - especially the short "u" bit often look ok even when they have tiny fissures and pin holes. (Which is just to say do my feel like you wasted your time!)


*insert witty remark here*
#991581 - 07/06/17 12:19 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: szurszewski]  
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tallman Offline
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Originally Posted By: szurszewski
It seems those hoses - especially the short "u" bit often look ok even when they have tiny fissures and pin holes. (Which is just to say do my feel like you wasted your time!)


Ok, but...
Age is not your friend, and when they fail, you're bollocked.
Suggest you reconsider as better to establis a new baseline in one endeavor
than have to piecemeal and risk being stranded.

All the external maintenance, olil/filter/air filter/gas filter/lines/brake flush/lines/pads
should be done after a while and mileages.
Best wishes.


If my mind wanders, should I follow it?
Tim
Conch Town Krewe
2003 K 1200 GT
1996 R 100 RSL
1980 R 100 RT
1972 R 75
1968 R 50
All now gone...

#991642 - 07/07/17 12:08 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: szurszewski]  
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szurszewski Offline
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szurszewski  Offline
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Originally Posted By: szurszewski
It seems those hoses - especially the short "u" bit often look ok even when they have tiny fissures and pin holes. (Which is just to say do my feel like you wasted your time!)



This was supposed to say: DO NOT feel like you wasted your time.

(Damn tiny phone screen and keyboard!)


*insert witty remark here*
#991731 - 07/08/17 12:49 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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South Australia
I thought it was a bit odd! Thanks for clearing that up.

#991828 - 07/09/17 01:07 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
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Lowndes Offline
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Lowndes  Offline
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Roswell, GA
kalali,

I saved about $20 on a full set of Spiegler brake (and clutch) lines by ordering the kit on Amazon.

I learned that Spiegler custom makes every order, even kits on Amazon. There are so many choices of colors of lines and fittings they couldn't stock kits. It only a few days to get the kit. Surprisingly quick. Easy install, too. Bleeding was a "learning experience".


Old Fart Newbie
#991832 - 07/09/17 02:22 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,002
Paul De Offline
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Paul De  Offline
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Milwaukee Wisconsin, USA
Locked caliper

My '99 RT had a front brake line from the ABS unit to the distribution block fail about 2 years ago. Replaced all lines with a Speigler braided SS kit. Fit was perfect and instruction clearly written. Good looking too with lots of color choices.
Do all hoses at once or you'll be chasing bad hose fixes for a while. Besides, brakes are a system to not just partially make right.

It was not a bad job once all the tupperware and tank was off. The Job was made easy with a mighty vac and plenty of DOT 4 fluid. No spongy brakes. While your in there replace the fuel filter if it hasn't been done per schedule, or you are uncertain when last done


If the good old days were so damn good, why did we bother to invent modern times?

Most missed bike: Bultaco Sherpa T 326
#991879 - 07/10/17 02:19 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Lowndes]  
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 128
Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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Posts: 128
South Australia
Quote:
"learning experience"

Yes I'm looking forward to doing it - NOT!!!

Quote:
While your in there replace the fuel filter

Yes done that! thumbsup

#991890 - 07/10/17 01:10 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,002
Paul De Offline
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Paul De  Offline
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Posts: 1,002
Milwaukee Wisconsin, USA
Check on not looking forward to the job. Particularly in winter with a cold workspace and tools. Up here in the frozen tundra area of the lower 48 states I keep my hand tools in a heated space put the ones I need for the job in a insulated cooler and work fast if I must work on busted equipment in the dead of winter. Our January here can get it -10F and of course something will need attending to when it is terrible cold outside.


If the good old days were so damn good, why did we bother to invent modern times?

Most missed bike: Bultaco Sherpa T 326
#991901 - 07/10/17 03:30 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
Joined: Jun 2006
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szurszewski Offline
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szurszewski  Offline
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Portland, OR
I kept tools inside always, but never thought to put them in a cooler to keep warm outside. Would have saved me some skin on my lips back when we lived in far western AK. (-10F was often a warm day - and stuff never needed fixing on warm days!)


*insert witty remark here*
#992465 - 07/18/17 10:32 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: szurszewski]  
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 128
Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 128
South Australia
I have replaced all the hoses on the front brakes and bled them in the order:
FL Caliper
FR Caliper
ABS
Repeat.
I made sure the reservoir was always filled and pressure on the vacuum bleeder before opening the valves. I did note that there was almost no flow unless I operated the brake lever, took a while but all seems ok.
Tomorrow I start the rear. thumbsup

#992518 - 07/19/17 05:06 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 128
Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 128
South Australia
Well the back is done. . . I hope!! smile
One thing that is annoying is when using a vacuum bleeder is the bubbles from where the tube plugs into the nipple, hard to tell if it is from inside or outside of the nipple!!
The brakes feel ok, I possibly should have done the last bit the old fashioned way by just having a hose to a bottle and hand pump the brake peddle/lever hold pressure and undo nipple, tighten when lever goes down/in. confused
I think it is ok though, they seem quite responsive without too much travel. smile

#992529 - 07/19/17 11:16 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
Joined: Jun 2010
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dirtrider Offline
The Oracle
dirtrider  Offline
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Ohio
Originally Posted By: Reecehk
Well the back is done. . . I hope!! smile
One thing that is annoying is when using a vacuum bleeder is the bubbles from where the tube plugs into the nipple, hard to tell if it is from inside or outside of the nipple!!
The brakes feel ok, I possibly should have done the last bit the old fashioned way by just having a hose to a bottle and hand pump the brake peddle/lever hold pressure and undo nipple, tighten when lever goes down/in. confused
I think it is ok though, they seem quite responsive without too much travel. smile


Morning Reecehk

It if is external air (like from bleed screw threads) then the air bubbles will be very small & quite evenly spaced.

If the air bubbles are larger, irregularly spaced, or random then it is more than likely air from inside the system.


D.R. ___
Sent from my rotory dial wall phone!
#992536 - 07/19/17 12:40 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: dirtrider]  
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 128
Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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South Australia
It is mostly from the outside between the tube and the nipple, when the valve is turned off the bubbles are still forming while there is pressure on the bleeder. Has anyone tried a small wire tie around the tube? Might be worth a try though it feels better than it has ever been front and rear.
If there is air in the ABS unit would it still effect the actual brakes?
I wonder if this would also effect the ABS fault/warning lights?
I suppose I am just going to have to suck it and see!! smirk

#992548 - 07/19/17 01:41 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 13,197
dirtrider Offline
The Oracle
dirtrider  Offline
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Ohio
Morning Reecehk

It is mostly from the outside between the tube and the nipple, when the valve is turned off the bubbles are still forming while there is pressure on the bleeder. Has anyone tried a small wire tie around the tube? Might be worth a try though it feels better than it has ever been front and rear.--Just don't worry about the external air as it HAS NO EFFECT ON BLEEDING OR AIR INSIDE THE SYSTEM.

If there is air in the ABS unit would it still effect the actual brakes?--Yes, but depending on amount of air maybe not a lot.

I wonder if this would also effect the ABS fault/warning lights?--Little air,= NO, lots of air,= YES.

I suppose I am just going to have to suck it and see!!--At one time BMW didn't recommend vacuum bleeding the old ABS-2 systems as there was concern with ABS controller internal damage.

In the old days when I had an 1100 bike with ABS-2 & a LOT of air in the brake system I would give it a preliminary bleed, then ride bike on loose dirt road & brake hard enough to get both ends into ABS mode, then return to my shop & re-bleed the ABS controller.


D.R. ___
Sent from my rotory dial wall phone!
#992582 - 07/19/17 05:47 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
Joined: Dec 2000
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Jim Moore Online
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Jim Moore  Online
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Jax, FL
When vacuum bleeding use the smallest amount of vacuum you can. If you suck too hard you pull air from the outside. You can also pump gently on the lever as you bleed. that will move internal bubbles around.


Jim Moore Jax, FL '99 R1100S '02 R1150GS
#992625 - 07/20/17 04:50 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Jim Moore]  
Joined: Jun 2007
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Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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South Australia
Thanks a lot guys, I am confident that all is ok, I do hope I didn't damage the ABS unit though, I guess I won't know till I test ride the bike. Once that is done I will post here again but may not be for a while.

Cheers,
Reece.

#992704 - 07/21/17 07:21 AM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
Joined: Jun 2007
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Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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South Australia
I put the seats on, left the Tupperware off, added a little petrol and gave it a test.
No ABS faults!
Front and rear brakes work well, the rear is a lot more touchy than before.
No petrol leaks, one thing is that the choke idle speed is much higher (2k), possibly the new fuel filter?? confused

All in all a very happy chappy!! yes

Thank you all for the much appreciated help/guidance. thumbsup

#992716 - 07/21/17 01:17 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,212
szurszewski Offline
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szurszewski  Offline
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Portland, OR
The "choke" on your bike is really just an additional throttle cable and does the same as if you were just holding the throttle/twist grip open a bit. Could be just easier access to fuel/air now or the cable might have been "adjusted" by your service work inadvertently - as long as you have the plastic off, maybe check to make sure it's not hanging up on anything.


*insert witty remark here*
#992757 - 07/21/17 10:18 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: szurszewski]  
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 19,668
tallman Offline
Picture Perfect Humorist
tallman  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 19,668
Tallahassee, Florida
Originally Posted By: szurszewski
The "choke" on your bike is really just an additional throttle cable and does the same as if you were just holding the throttle/twist grip open a bit. Could be just easier access to fuel/air now or the cable might have been "adjusted" by your service work inadvertently - as long as you have the plastic off, maybe check to make sure it's not hanging up on anything.



and then adjust to proper range...


If my mind wanders, should I follow it?
Tim
Conch Town Krewe
2003 K 1200 GT
1996 R 100 RSL
1980 R 100 RT
1972 R 75
1968 R 50
All now gone...

#1000666 - 11/10/17 11:44 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: tallman]  
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 128
Reecehk Offline
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Reecehk  Offline
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South Australia
Hi, been a while since I checked here, yes I will have to adjust the choke.
I have to start a new thread since the bike has now died!!!

#1000778 - 11/12/17 10:25 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
Joined: May 2016
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Lowndes Offline
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Lowndes  Offline
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Posts: 325
Roswell, GA
Reecehk,

Re: "...one thing is that the choke idle speed is much higher (2k), ...", you might want to check the "choke" cable from the handlebar to the Bowden box, make sure all the cable sheaths are fully seated.


Old Fart Newbie
#1001012 - 11/16/17 03:21 PM Re: Lower front brake hose burst - R1100RT [Re: Reecehk]  
Joined: Nov 2002
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philbytx Offline
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Posts: 6,961
Kerrville, TX
Make sure the RH side throttle cable is properly seated at the Throttle Body end......!


Phil C.
2003 R1150RT "DaRTh"
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4x4 Diesel "Smiffy"
2011 Kia Optima EX "Meosjin Chalo"
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