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Poor shifting 2014 RT


RecentConvert

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RecentConvert

If you read enough of the bulletin boards, a common topic is poor shifting on the RT. Primarily 1-2-3.

 

My RT is currently in the shop being diagnosed by the local tech along with assistance from BMW Germany.

 

Besides the clunk I dislike a lot, the 1-2 shift often bounces over two teeth before catching the third. Occasionally this happens on 2-3 also.

 

Sometimes it will hang in a gear and won't shift on the first attempt too.

 

This is my first BMW and this issue doesn't leave a favorable impression after years of other bikes.

 

Anyone else having this problem? Any solutions? I've tried the reduced oil level idea with no real change.

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My '14 has a clunky shift from 1st to 2nd as well. 2nd to 3rd is better but not real smooth. Rest of the up shifts are silky smooth. Please post if the German help finds a fix.

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The best solution I've found (thanks to this forum) is to pre-load the shifter with something less than what's needed to activate the quick shifter. That along with 1/4 to 1/3 clutch lever travel almost always results in a smooth shift. Takes a little practice but it becomes second nature. Not a desirable situation but the bike more than makes up for it in other areas.

 

On the down shifts, rev matching/throttle blip results in a smooth down shift (another tip from forum members).

 

Not much can be done at a standstill from N to 1st.

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RecentConvert

I don't have the Shift Assist on my RT.

 

I agree that the RT is a fine bike on the road. The transmission really lets down the rest of the bike.

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The neutral to first while stopped is clunky. Sometimes the 1-2 shift is a bit rough compared to the other gears. But, I have never had a false neutral, heard anything that sounds like outright grinding. This is a fairly high torque engine and it probably has a somewhat heavy duty transmission. I don't expect it to shift like my 650 V Strom. While there may indeed be a problem with your bike, it might be that as you get used to it and adapt it will reward you with confidence that it is ok.

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Ive had other wet clutch bikes, Hondas, which clunked the same way shifting into 1st at a stop. I think it is characteristic of some wet clutches. My thinking is that although the clutch is disengaged, there is motion transmitted from the driving plates to the driven plates somewhat like a torque converter. The spinning gears are suddenly stopped when the 1st gear dogs engage causing the clunk.

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If you read enough of the bulletin boards, a common topic is poor shifting on the RT. Primarily 1-2-3.

 

My RT is currently in the shop being diagnosed by the local tech along with assistance from BMW Germany.

 

Besides the clunk I dislike a lot, the 1-2 shift often bounces over two teeth before catching the third. Occasionally this happens on 2-3 also.

 

Sometimes it will hang in a gear and won't shift on the first attempt too.

 

This is my first BMW and this issue doesn't leave a favorable impression after years of other bikes.

 

Anyone else having this problem? Any solutions? I've tried the reduced oil level idea with no real change.

 

Morning RecentConvert

 

My friends 14 1200RT has/had a notchy poor shifting transmission (at least to him). Lowering the engine oil level a little helped improve the shifting as well as switching to the correct BMW approved motor oil (I think the original BMW dealer used the incorrect oil at first service)

 

In any case, after about 30K miles & using the correct engine oil/+/slightly lower oil level the trans is shifting MUCH more smoothly. The cold N to 1st gear shift is still very clunky but that is pretty normal for a wet clutch bike. I finally got him to shift into 2nd then back into first on a cold bike & that seems to have helped the cold clunk.

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If you read enough of the bulletin boards, a common topic is poor shifting on the RT. Primarily 1-2-3.

 

My RT is currently in the shop being diagnosed by the local tech along with assistance from BMW Germany.

 

Besides the clunk I dislike a lot, the 1-2 shift often bounces over two teeth before catching the third. Occasionally this happens on 2-3 also.

 

Sometimes it will hang in a gear and won't shift on the first attempt too.

 

This is my first BMW and this issue doesn't leave a favorable impression after years of other bikes.

 

Anyone else having this problem? Any solutions? I've tried the reduced oil level idea with no real change.

All the comments written here are very valid, and I do want to stress that keeping the oil level at the center of the sight glass, or perhaps just a little above, DO help to make the shifting a little less clunkier. I also want to say what gordiet had said in that perhaps you are used to better shifting bikes, but it is possible to shift very smoothly through all gears IF you use the right technique, which you will have to learn and get used to.

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Ive had other wet clutch bikes, Hondas, which clunked the same way shifting into 1st at a stop. I think it is characteristic of some wet clutches. My thinking is that although the clutch is disengaged, there is motion transmitted from the driving plates to the driven plates somewhat like a torque converter. The spinning gears are suddenly stopped when the 1st gear dogs engage causing the clunk.
I've had four BMWs, only one with a wet clutch. They all clunked going from neutral to first. It just reminds me I am on a BMW.
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FYI, the 2017's have a re-designed transmission and the shifting is much smoother. Its still not perfect but improvement is noticeable, esp. when using the quick shifter. One of those "covert" improvements BMW made without any fanfare, as that would be an admission it needed fixing.

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This has been a topic a few times. I think the last version Hexhead or Camhead head transmission was said to shift smoother than the wethead. To me it is a bit relative. Coming from a '99 RT oilhead my '15 RT shifts like a dream. On the '99 it required a Zen like approach to have smooth shifts. See the gear-be the gear-mesh with the next gear...Haha. The clunk sound between shifts on the '99 would frighten pedestrians, but that transmission was bullet proof. So, for me the '15 RT shifts so much smoother and the clunk sound going to into first while not moving is all that remains.

 

I would never put any of the BMW boxer bikes I have owned or ridden as smooth as my '83 GPz Kawasaki transmission, but then there are so many criterion by which to rate a bike and both of my RTs won out VS a Connie, the ST or the FJR even with a minus mark for shifting smoothness.

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RecentConvert

I've read the BMW bulletin boards and tried every "solution" to the shifting issue that didn't involve holding my head at an angle while touching my nose with my tongue. :grin:

 

I did a stepwise test of oil level from bottom of the ring to the top of the ring in 4 oz intervals. It doesn't change the shifting but does change engine clatter.

 

I tried the preloading of the shifter with occasional success. Unfortunately, it doesn't shift badly every time, so it was hard to say if this helped, it wasn't a solution however.

 

Adjusting and bleeding the clutch wasn't successful either.

 

I am not a babe in the woods, but as my login name implies, I am fairly new to BMW. I had previous experience with 2 R1150RTs but it was limited. I have ridden Japanese bikes and an occasional Triumph since 1968. Yamahas, Hondas, Suzukis, one Kawasaki. All but the Kawasaki shift better than the RT. The Kawasaki soon left. Big bikes, medium bikes and race bikes.

 

I am not looking for perfection, but the RT, as is, is well below average for the transmission. If they are "all that way", my question is why? Is it designed in as part of the mystique? Are the K series bikes better in the transmission area?

 

Other than the poor shifting Kawasaki, I've had no transmission issues in 50 years. Perhaps the RT transmission will never break, but does it have to remind me of an old tractor.

 

For the record, it isn't the clunk from neutral to 1st that bothers me, most wet clutches do that. Its 1 to 2 to 3 and 3 to 2 to 1.

 

So why did I buy it? I love the way it rides long distances and through the mountain twisties. Apparently it was having a good day during my test ride. It is far better for the pillion than an FJR.

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I had a similar issue when I first bought the bike. I found that my boot was not allowing the shifter to return properly before catching the next gear. It also helps to have the RPM and speed "up a little" prior to shifting. (2500-3000)

 

Mine does not clunk going into first from neutral however.

 

You may have a mechanical issue with the trans...

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I had a similar issue when I first bought the bike. I found that my boot was not allowing the shifter to return properly before catching the next gear. It also helps to have the RPM and speed "up a little" prior to shifting. (2500-3000)

 

Mine does not clunk going into first from neutral however.

 

You may have a mechanical issue with the trans...

You have caught on to some of the smooth shifting technique required for the RTs! On the upshifts - you need to wind it up because the RT likes the higher rpm range for shifting, I don't look at the tach when I ride, but I suspect that I upshift at much high rpm than 3k! Now, in stop-and-go type traffic, it is very hard to avoid the clunk, but you will find that there is a very narrow band of low rpm where it is possible to snick the shift into higher gear without a clunk. Downshift? If you cannot get smooth and clunkless downshifts into any gears, including 1st, then you need to learn the rev-matching technique from any old-timers! :) Neutral to 1st? That is almost unavoidable, and I personally don't get them because I always stop and park in 1st, using the sidestand to shut down. My RT rarely sees neutral!

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... my '14 shifts fine.

 

Yes, it has the "standard" BMW, N to 1st clunk and feel. (I think of that as a "feature" not an issue.) The 1st to 2nd is a little bit clunky when cold. All the others are fine... going up or down. The Shift Assist works as designed if I use it as described in the manual it is like butta... learning curve was involved

 

My oil is at the mid-glass or just a touch above. Shifts get smoother after a warm-up.. or make that moderate departure from the homestead.

 

For reference I have owned, ridden and self-serviced many bikes of many brands over 50 years of riding... starting with a JB-Model K in 1958 etc...

 

Just one data point...

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Your comment about why does it have to shift like a tractor made me laugh. Not sure if it is the case with the wethead with the transmission integrated with the motor, but I believe the older design with a separate transmission was designed and built by Getrag. Maybe they had the tractor/utility unit do the design:dopeslap:

 

Sounds like the BMW transmission issue will eventually irritate you to the point of moving on. Is there another Craigslist find of the day coming up? :smile:

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OK.

Read responses, and they cover most of the usual suspects.

When I rode a boxer I rarely went into N when riding.

Always shifted ti 1st before stopping (and at lights etc always want to be able to react w/out having to put in 1st).

Preloading takes pracitce, sorry.

Thinking about it, always makes it worse.

Wind it up, use the right amount of lever pull, following the preload, then

shift shortest time involved.

They don't shift like most UJM bikes, but, can certainly be smooth, efficient, fast.

Best wishes.

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After 78,000 miles on my 14RT I have found that 4,000-4,500 rpm seems to be the best rpm for going from 1-2-3 if you don't mind a grandpa shift , down shift is never a problem ,just pull in the clutch blip the throttle and down shift. I always down shift to first before coming to a stop ( I use a lot of motor braking ), one big reason is safety , if you have to get going fast just let out the clutch .

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what are you guys saying...Mine shifts perfectly up and down with no clanks. There is no buzz or vibration in the bars above 4000rpm, the stock seat is so incredibly comfortable sometimes I just go sit on it in the garage to relax, the audio Bluetooth is very easy to use and works on all devices, the top case was so cheap I bought a spare, you can take your hands off the wheel at any speed and it tracks straight ahead, and I get 24,000 miles on a set of tires..... :D

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My '10 FJR1300A clunked pretty bad when shifting from neutral to first as do most of these bikes. But, if I hold in the clutch and blip the throttle to get around 2500 RPM then wait till the motor returns to idle she clicks right into first smooth as can be. Give it a try would be interesting to see how this works on a wet clutch BMW.

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My '10 FJR1300A clunked pretty bad when shifting from neutral to first as do most of these bikes. But, if I hold in the clutch and blip the throttle to get around 2500 RPM then wait till the motor returns to idle she clicks right into first smooth as can be. Give it a try would be interesting to see how this works on a wet clutch BMW.

 

The transmissions of my 2 departed LC had very similar operating characteristics to my long departed 2008 K1200GT, also a large displacement wet clutch equipped bike..

Noisy/clunky shifts - 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd, with a jarring clunk into 1st from N from a stop.

One difference was that with the K12GT (wedge), if I held the clutch in for about 5-10 seconds before dropping the bike into 1st at a stoplight, it would then easily/smoothly/satisfyingly snick into gear, as one would desire it to.

No such luck with the LC. Only way I found was to shut 'em off, drop it into first and restart. Which of course, doesn't make much sense to do.

 

My current R1200s, Camheads, both drop silently into gear from N if i hold the clutch in a few moments first, or rock the bike just a titch backwards before attempting the shift into first.

A much nicer operating experience IMO.

 

Sitting at a stoplight the other day, a finely festooned fella riding a new, full of presence, Harley Bagger of some sort turned from a stop through the intersection in front of me. Halfway through the turn he shifted into second gear. Cripes..sounds like an OLD MACK truck. What year is it 1950? You'd think there's gotta be some way to eliminate that.

Apparently not I guess.

 

Seems it's a displacement issue. I've ridden/owned plenty bikes of lesser CC, including a BMW F800, with no such characteristic.

 

I understand that power, performance, and now, technology, are important drivers of motorcycle design and sales. I'd like a bit more attention paid to Noise Vibration & Harshness...refinement.

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I complained about the rough neutral to first shift when stopped early on here.

 

I still don't like to hear it but I just jam it down and go now without a worry.

 

I never miss a shift, find a false neutral. I think it shifts very good overall. Much better than my Oilhead. Seems there are no problems with these transmissions or by now we would be hearing about them.

 

Yes, it appears BMW made some upgrades to help with shifting. Not sure if they are actually in the transmission or external or both. So, that could just be one more thing to break or add weight. Riding some other bikes, I really don't think this transmission is bad at all.

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I complained about the rough neutral to first shift when stopped early on here.

 

I still don't like to hear it but I just jam it down and go now without a worry.

 

I never miss a shift, find a false neutral. I think it shifts very good overall. Much better than my Oilhead. Seems there are no problems with these transmissions or by now we would be hearing about them.

 

Yes, it appears BMW made some upgrades to help with shifting. Not sure if they are actually in the transmission or external or both. So, that could just be one more thing to break or add weight. Riding some other bikes, I really don't think this transmission is bad at all.

 

Right as rain, RS

From reading all the available feedback, here and elsewhere, many think they're fantastic, many don't.

 

Anyway

Regarding the transmission update...

I cut this from Motorcycle.com. Can't swear to the accuracy, but as I recall the BMW press release (which I couldn't find right now) was similar, if not exactly the same.

 

"BMW announced a number of updates for its liquid-cooled boxer models. The R1200R, R1200RT, R1200RS and R1200GS all return with some minor changes while the R1200GS Adventure is also back, now with a new special edition Triple Black variant.

For 2017, all R1200 models receive judder dampers on the transmission output shaft (formerly standard equipment for just the R1200GS Adventure), along with revised selector drum actuators, transmission shafts and transmission shaft bearing. As well, 2017 models receive a new on-board diagnostics indicator light as per Euro 4 requirements."

 

I test rode a 2017 GSA. My half hour ride lead me to believe that the shift action in the lower gears was noticeably improved over my departed 2014 RT and my departed 2015 GS.

Edited by DMilan
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what are you guys saying...Mine shifts perfectly up and down with no clanks. There is no buzz or vibration in the bars above 4000rpm, the stock seat is so incredibly comfortable sometimes I just go sit on it in the garage to relax, the audio Bluetooth is very easy to use and works on all devices, the top case was so cheap I bought a spare, you can take your hands off the wheel at any speed and it tracks straight ahead, and I get 24,000 miles on a set of tires..... :D

 

I sense a touch of sarcasm there, but ironically half of your comments ring true for me. I can ride on the stock seat for 1000 km days with no issue. My top box is a milk crate, and the only cost was $0.50 for bolts to clamp it on. And I have found that unlike my 1999 RT, the 2015 R can be controlled hands-free with just slight weight shifts for frighteningly long periods of time. The tire mileage, well I wish.

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RecentConvert

The shop called today. They have examined the transmission and concluded that it is within specifications. Now they are digging into the clutch system. Bleeding the system seems to improve shifting, but only temporarily.

 

Making progress!

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I believe there was a recent recall on the clutch slave cylinder recently , it goes by VIN # might want to have your dealer check it out.

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RecentConvert

The dealer reports that everything is within specification according to BMW.

 

After reading the technician notes, apparently he doesn't know the proper shifting procedure either. His comments mirror mine. But within spec is within spec.

 

 

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RecentConvert

I've now had time to log 100 miles or so since the complete investigation by the dealer, of the clutch and transmission. They reported that all was within specifications.

 

What has changed? The clutch feels very different and engages closer to the bars rather than when nearly completely released.

 

The shifting process seems to be a bit lighter and somewhat better. All of the issues remain, but are less obtrusive. Fine tuning, whatever that may be, has helped. It is less-wrong than it was. Now it is up to me to either drink the BMW Kool-Aid or send it down the road.

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I've now had time to log 100 miles or so since the complete investigation by the dealer, of the clutch and transmission. They reported that all was within specifications.

 

What has changed? The clutch feels very different and engages closer to the bars rather than when nearly completely released.

 

The shifting process seems to be a bit lighter and somewhat better. All of the issues remain, but are less obtrusive. Fine tuning, whatever that may be, has helped. It is less-wrong than it was. Now it is up to me to either drink the BMW Kool-Aid or send it down the road.

 

Afternoon RecentConvert

 

Trust me, you are far better off not knowing what they did to it.

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Afternoon RecentConvert

 

Trust me, you are far better off not knowing what they did to it.

 

Heyyyyy -- maybe they just gave it a good bash!

 

f-juke_87_5991.jpg

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