throttle body synch, R1150RT

I am attempting a synch on my 2004 R1150RT after installing the R1200 injectors and I am having a problem. I am using a homemade manometer and have the idle set dead on. As soon as I touch the throttle to try to raise the rpm to 1500, the oil in the right tube rises very rapidly until the oil as reached the top of the yard stick and I shut the throttle. The instructions that I am using say to raise the rpm to 1500 and adjust the cable adjuster. It is difficult to get to the cable adjuster with the fuel hoses, injector plug and wiring in the way. To top that off, I have a sidecar subframe also in the way.

A couple of questions. Which way do I turn the adjuster to lowere the right side and is there any way that the adjustment can be made on the left throttle body.

Is it normal to need this much adjustment? Thanks for any assistance. I need to get this thing back together for a trip later this week.

I am attempting a synch on my 2004 R1150RT after installing the R1200 injectors and I am having a problem. I am using a homemade manometer and have the idle set dead on. As soon as I touch the throttle to try to raise the rpm to 1500, the oil in the right tube rises very rapidly until the oil as reached the top of the yard stick and I shut the throttle. The instructions that I am using say to raise the rpm to 1500 and adjust the cable adjuster. It is difficult to get to the cable adjuster with the fuel hoses, injector plug and wiring in the way. To top that off, I have a sidecar subframe also in the way.

 

A couple of questions. Which way do I turn the adjuster to lowere the right side and is there any way that the adjustment can be made on the left throttle body.

 

Is it normal to need this much adjustment? Thanks for any assistance. I need to get this thing back together for a trip later this week.

Afternoon Bill

New fuel injectors should have little to no effect on the TB balance (TB balance is a throttle plate opening balance)

First thing-- make sure that the all the cables are fully seated (in the TB cable fittings & in the Bowden box)-- (no tight cables & no cables pulled out of Bowden box)

If the right side fluid level is higher then that means the R/H side is opening less than the L/H side (higher fluid level means higher vacuum & that means a more closed throttle plate.

To see which way & what side to adjust just use a finger to very lightly pull on the exposed cable at a TB.

Sometimes it is best to start without the engine running & have someone slowly move the twist grip as you reach in with your hands to feel both side throttle cams lift off their idle stop screws. (both sides need to lift off the idle stop screws at the very same time)

DR,thanks for the information. It sounds like I can get it close while the engine is cold. Which is a good thing. It will need to wait until the morning as it is 94f out there right now.

DR, one more quick question, where is the Bowden box?

DR, one more quick question, where is the Bowden box?

Afternoon RoanokeRider

Under the Motronic area on the R/H side. You won't be able to see much of it (a REAL pain to get to)

Without removing the fuel tank about all you can do is follow the short throttle cables up from the TB's as far as you can then try to push in them in towards the Bowden box.

I am attempting a synch on my 2004 R1150RT after installing the R1200 injectors and I am having a problem. I am using a homemade manometer and have the idle set dead on. As soon as I touch the throttle to try to raise the rpm to 1500, the oil in the right tube rises very rapidly until the oil as reached the top of the yard stick and I shut the throttle. The instructions that I am using say to raise the rpm to 1500 and adjust the cable adjuster. It is difficult to get to the cable adjuster with the fuel hoses, injector plug and wiring in the way. To top that off, I have a sidecar subframe also in the way.

 

A couple of questions. Which way do I turn the adjuster to lowere the right side and is there any way that the adjustment can be made on the left throttle body.

 

Is it normal to need this much adjustment? Thanks for any assistance. I need to get this thing back together for a trip later this week.

Your homemade manometer might need a little modification. First off, I use transmission fluid since it is easy to see, will not harm the engine if accidentally sucked in, and the viscosity is a good compromise between too fast or too slow. The modification is to try to find something to put inline on the tubs that reduces the flow of air and thereby slows the movement of the fluid.

Something as simple as what is shown in the link will get you some restriction.

I am very happy. The manual synch that DR suggested worked very well. I got it close enough using this method that the right column only moved 4 or 5 inches and I was then able to adjust that out.

Thanks again for the information. It made a miserable job in a hot garage much easier. I think that I will use this in the future.