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Ignition switch problem r1150rt


ldbeemer

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In the attempt to get a couple of spare keys made, a locksmith forced a new key, before I could get him to stop, trying to get it to work in the ignition . Now I can barley get any of my keys to turn the switch on. How does one get the switch out?

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I believe you should go back to the locksmith and have him make good on his work. My locksmith couldn't get the book-listed key blank to work but an Ilco BMW2 worked correctly. He gave me the first key and I use it as a back up for every lock except the ignition.

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In the attempt to get a couple of spare keys made, a locksmith forced a new key, before I could get him to stop, trying to get it to work in the ignition . Now I can barley get any of my keys to turn the switch on. How does one get the switch out?

 

Evening ldbeemer

 

Do you want to remove the entire switch (lot of work & drilling) or just remove the lock cylinder (barrel)?

 

Lock barrel comes out easily (usually) by depressing the trigger with key in cylinder.

 

 

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DR, Could you further define "trigger" in your most recent post?

 

Evening Roger C

 

BMW calls it a keeper. But it is just a little spring loaded tab in a hole on the lock housing.

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I guess just the lock Cylinder, is the route I'll go.

Also curious how to access the hole in the lock housing

Not sure I want the same locksmith working on it, but i might take the lock cylinder to him and see what can be done.

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DR, just curious how one would access that hole in the lock housing?

 

Evening Roger C

 

You can reach down in there & kind of poke around & finally find the hole (you are basically working blind)

 

I usually cheat & grab an old ignition switch assembly from my junk drawer so I know exactly where it is located (I very seldom remove those cylinders so kind of need a refresher)

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I guess just the lock Cylinder, is the route I'll go.

Also curious how to access the hole in the lock housing

Not sure I want the same locksmith working on it, but i might take the lock cylinder to him and see what can be done.

 

Evening ldbeemer

 

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  • Thanks 1
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Evening ldbeemer

 

Once you get the cylinder out do not remove the key until you are in a place where you can capture the spring loaded wafers (some could pop out when you remove the key from the cylinder)

 

Also, don't lose track on what slot they come out of (wafers are numbered & precisely match the key cuts)

 

You might just have some bent wafers or mangled springs so you might be able to straighten them out. Or, if you don't like your locksmith just take the cylinder & key to you local BMW dealer as they probably have a bag of takeout wafers that are leftovers from re-keying jobs.

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At the moment I can't get the key to the ON position, only over towards Lock. In the event I can get one of the keys to get it to the ON position and I get the cylinder out will I be able to turn the switch back to OFF with something so the lights etc are off, or do I need to disconnect the battery before I start this?

Edited by ldbeemer
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You don't by chance have the forks all the way to the right or left?

 

If you had the bike at the locksmith's, how were you able to get the switch to the "on" position in order to start?

 

I'd say your best bet would be to disconnect the negative cable at the battery--otherwise your lights, etc will drain your battery, thus adding to your problems.

Edited by Roger C
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I fiddled with it and got it started., but once home I was playing with different keys trying to decide which was going to work the best. The more times I tried keys the worse it has gotten, till now I can't get it to the ON position, and don't want to screw it up any more than it is till I have all my ducks in a row, with what needs to be done. Tomorrow is another day. And yes I have the bars turned to the left so I can see the little hole that I need to poke into to get the lock released. I'll try with the bars straight tomorrow.

Edited by ldbeemer
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At the moment I can't get the key to the ON position, only over towards Lock. In the event I can get one of the keys to get it to the ON position and I get the cylinder out will I be able to turn the switch back to OFF with something so the lights etc are off, or do I need to disconnect the battery before I start this?

 

Morning ldbeemer

 

You should turn the kill switch to off as that will kill a lot of the ignition switch (on) functions.

 

Once you get the cylinder barrel out you can then reach in with a screwdriver & turn the switch to off, that switch is way down in the cylinder barrel hole (find something that sort of matches the bottom of the cylinder barrel)--Be sure to turn it back on before re-installing the switch cylinder barrel.

 

You can also buy a BMW barrel kit p/n- 51257684423 (about $45.00) then build that up to match your key, then just grease it up & swap into your switch housing.

 

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Based on my experiences with my R1100RT, I cannot turn my ignition key when the bars are completely left or right, but a slight movement frees up the ignition lock.

Edited by Roger C
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OK I got the switch barrel out. This is what it looks like. Can you tell from these shots what the problem would be? Or do I need to remove the key and try to not loose all the little pieces to see things better. It appears that all the locking parts are protruding equally along both sides. click the r1150rt link for the pictures

r1150rt

Edited by ldbeemer
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OK I got the switch barrel out. This is what it looks like. Can you tell from these shots what the problem would be? Or do I need to remove the key and try to not loose all the little pieces to see things better. It appears that all the locking parts are protruding equally along both sides. click the r1150rt link for the

 

Morning ldbeemer

 

Difficult to tell much from the pictures. It looks like the wafers are maybe not pulling in far enough but that is a tough call from a picture.

 

Try pushing on each wafer to see if they can move a little & easily.

 

You can hold your hand around the wafers (so they don't shoot out) then remove the key & you should be able to then extract the wafers. Once out make sure that the springs are not mangled & that the wafers are flat & can move easily in their slots.

 

Don't worry if it all comes apart on you. Just look at the picture, see how all the wafers pretty well pull into the same height with key installed. Just rebuild it back so it does that (you can pretty well tell what wafer goes with what key cut just by looking that depth of the key cut).

 

You can also reinstall the bare cylinder (with key in it) to see if it then turns easily & smoothly without the wafers in place.

 

If you find one or two bad wafers you can buy new from BMW, or just leave them out (the more that you leave out the more keys from other BMW's will work in the lock) -- I used to re-key my fuel cap lock & panier locks to only have one wafer so about anybody's key could open it.

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It appears that is an original BMW key, and as such, the wafers are pretty even with one another. I still contend your locksmith used the wrong substitute BMW blank. Does it have any reference to BMW1 or BMW2 stamped on it? It doesn't take much for a duplicate key to not work.

Edited by Roger C
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It appears that is an original BMW key, and as such, the wafers are pretty even with one another. I still contend your locksmith used the wrong substitute BMW blank. Does it have any reference to BMW1 or BMW2 stamped on it? It doesn't take much for a duplicate key to not work.

 

Could be, but the OP stated the lock is such that his original key (the one in the lock now, I presume) no longer works well.

 

I would definitely junk the "new" keys once this is sorted and go to a different and hopefully better locksmith for copies. I'd not want to go back to one who tried to force a key he'd just made to work.

 

 

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He made two keys, one was a store blank, the other was a BMW blank that I brought in from a dealer, marked BMW. neither worked well, nor the key I was using.

I'm going to take the whole thing to another locksmith. I have the assembly out, cleaned, reassembled and I made a plastic key to start the bike without the key set installed. I noted all the numbers of the wafers, which I guess would be the key code? I cleaned all the stiff grease out of the barrel and switch housing. I'll have it all lubricated at the locksmiths.

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He made two keys, one was a store blank, the other was a BMW blank that I brought in from a dealer, marked BMW. neither worked well, nor the key I was using.

I'm going to take the whole thing to another locksmith. I have the assembly out, cleaned, reassembled and I made a plastic key to start the bike without the key set installed. I noted all the numbers of the wafers, which I guess would be the key code? I cleaned all the stiff grease out of the barrel and switch housing. I'll have it all lubricated at the locksmiths.

 

Afternoon ldbeemer

 

Hopefully that will clear up the problem.

 

If by chance it doesn't then go up a few posts about buying a new cylinder kit. I have installed a couple of the new cylinder kits & that usually clears up the sticking ignition switch action.

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I dropped off the cylinder at the locksmiths, and will pick it up on Friday, so time will tell. Meanwhile I'm using a toothbrush handle to start the bike, and have the hole covered with electrical tape with a slit to stick the toothbrush through.I might buy a new cylinder kit anyway just to make sure, i have all the bases covered.

Thanks to all for the help and advice.

 

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Went to the locksmith, got the cylinder, installed it in the parking lot, and all is well again!!! He removed one wafer.

 

Evening ldbeemer

 

That's good news.

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  • 5 months later...

My locksmith made a duplicate key (we thought) from the ILCO book which listed BMW1 as the correct blank. It works all locks EXCEPT the ignition. So he made another key using a BMW2 blank and this duplicate works everything.. He then comped me the BMW1 blank which enables me to access the stereo cover and all other locks without having to stop,and turn off engine to use the original BMW key or my duplicate BMW2 key.

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  • 1 year later...

If you want to see what the older (1999) BMW lockset internals look like:

 

All pics here:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/7BqppvMnVxPKUTb19

 

BW6WFdGBl7lNltWWf6kO9CJ2tdghZFqv0lziunSS

gpbpMz2UEzP4xrR7Oy8R6P1FEYKKiSwa_7s-Fmtz

 

 

I found this WD-40 Dry Lube works VERY well in all kinds of locks and locksets.  Much better than plain graphite or oils or greases.  It goes in as a water-clear spray, penetrates everything and quickly dries clear just like nothing is there.  But then all the parts are slipping and sliding like they're on rollers.  Plus, being clear and dry it doesn't collect dust and dirt or smudge your fingers or clothes when you put the key in your pocket.  It worked so well on my RT side case locks and ignition switch I did all the locks on the cars, other bikes and the house.  The doorknobs and latches in the house work as smooth as warm butter now. 

 9zdwS0lPgiKZ7fJ1ynoE1qVdz6csnSe2pP6_YZ0p

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Thx for that tip. I've always struggled not getting graphite on my fingers and surrounding area whenever I use it. Also too much always seems to come out.  I'll give the wd40 dry lube a 'shot'. 

 

Thx Miguel  

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  • 1 year later...

Asking for help please.

 

I have just stopped 4 guys from trying to steal my BMW R1150rt and a neighbours bike, they have done the same damage to both bikes. Forced and broken  the steering lock and damaged the ignition: He is selling his bike rather than repair.

 

I have purchased a used ignition  assembly and a new ignition barrel.

 

I have removed all the fairing and unbolted the headlamp cowling, do you have any advice on removing the security bolts  I will try a Dremel, but  not sure if I will have the space to get in?

 

 

I have been told that it is better to remove the yoke?   

 

 I will be most grateful for any advice.

 

In Deep Gratitude

James-UK

 

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1 hour ago, James-UK said:

I have purchased a used ignition  assembly and a new ignition barrel.

 

I have removed all the fairing and unbolted the headlamp cowling, do you have any advice on removing the security bolts  I will try a Dremel, but  not sure if I will have the space to get in?

 

 

I have been told that it is better to remove the yoke?   

 

Morning   James-UK

 

You probably won't get those security screws out intact. I typically drill the heads off of the security screws, then remove the old ignition switch, then use a pair of Vise Grips to unscrew the remainder of the security screws that are sticking out. I then install new screws using a bit of blue Loc-Tite  (they don't need to be security screws though) 

 

It "can" be done with the upper triple tree still on the motorcycle but it is very difficult to get a straight drill on those screw heads from underneath. Unless you have the proper drill & access to drill those screw heads off correctly then removing the upper triple tree is usually best.  

 

If your steering lock is damaged you might want to remove the upper triple tree for a good look at the locking parts anyhow.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 4 months later...

I just saw this post whilst searching for ignition switch info. Sorry to hear about that damage to the bikes, hope you got it sorted. I’m well impressed that you chased off four thieves…….you must be a handy person to have as a neighbour!!

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