Disassembly recommendation for replacing my 16K miles clutch

I just purchased a 2000 R1100RT 76K miles that has 5th gear clutch slippage when quickly accelerating from steady state. Previous owner said this was occurring two-up so not unexpected. He had clutch, rear main and input seals replaced at 60K although he had unhappy dealer experience. The motorcycle shifts like I expect (I had a K100 30 years ago) with no missed shifts and easy-to-find neutral. Rear clutch adjustment seemed a bit tight (done by feel not gauge) and front adjustment I left a tad loose (cable clutch).

Reading the various fora (very very helpful thank you) I was expecting the worst: rear main and/or input shaft seals leaking. So after procrastinating a week, I started fault isolation. Pulled the air cleaner: upper box dry; lower box had oil film with some liquid oil on left-hand side. Pulled the starter: everything coated in black dust...but no signs of oil anywhere! Clutch plate thickness 5mm although if you said 4.8mm I wouldn't disagree but if you said 4.5mm I would. Shifted into 5th gear and observed operation at various clutch lever positions: everything as expected (I'm familiar with Ford Racing clutches for my 1989 Mustang track car). The little I could see of the input shaft splines looked clean and smooth.

Anomalous findings: (1) sometime between examining the air box and removing the starter I picked up 3/8" play at clutch lever; (2) the outer edge of the metal disk in the center of the diaphragm spring was shiny and felt rough; (3) I found a very small, thin metal sliver in the dust. I'm not bothered by the small amount of oil in the lower air box because this can occur for many reasons including engine wear (170psi in both cylinders), crankcase breather design, and cam and spark timing. I'm hoping it isn't due to improper outer rear main seal installation but I'll determine that when the clutch is out.

This looks like rapid clutch wear so I've ordered the BBY clutch kit ncstatecamp did to ensure all surfaces are flat and spring is fresh. I'll check to see if my piston is the latest version. I'll defer the clutch cable decision to the 78K major service (when I might replace original brake hoses). The neutral and gear position switches are working properly so I'll leave them alone; if they need to be replaced Clymer's said I can do it without transmission removal.

Which leads me to my question: should I approach clutch from rear wheel-final drive-driveshaft-transmission component removal or should I trust those components are working properly (I've done the wheel bearing, etc external tests; all seals were dry and final drive oil and drain plug were clean) and remove them together as one unit?

Of course any suggestions, recommendations and critiques are welcome. Thank you.

 

Which leads me to my question: should I approach clutch from rear wheel-final drive-driveshaft-transmission component removal or should I trust those components are working properly (I've done the wheel bearing, etc external tests; all seals were dry and final drive oil and drain plug were clean) and remove them together as one unit?

 

Of course any suggestions, recommendations and critiques are welcome. Thank you.

Evening Bert

How you take it apart somewhat depends on the tools/jacks/supports that you have handy & how much help that you have.

It can also depend on IF you want to lubricate the swing arm pivots & inspect the dive shaft at this time (are the pivots loose now???)

I usually remove the entire trans/swing arm/final drive as unit but I have some sliding supports that allow me to do this by myself.

It's a REAL BUGGER to get that whole assembly back in by yourself without having everything held to height & sliding smoothly, bending clutch parts is an easy possibility trying to horse the whole thing back in by yourself.

If I was doing an old 1100 bike without past history I would probably take it apart in pieces then lubricate the pivot pins (it should be done eventually anyway) & inspect the hidden parts of the drive train. If you take it apart in pieces be sure to heat the pivot pins as removing them cold can strip the alloy threads out of the holes.

Thank you dirtrider.

WRT to disassembly I will check with previous owner on pivot pin maintenance. If it was done at 60K clutch replacement I'll defer to 78K major service when I'm more familiar with this motorcycle. The driveshaft looks more difficult than the clutch.

I have a drag racer friend to help me in Descanso and between us we have an extensive tool suite including transmission dolly. I will fabricate dowels to keep transmission supported and aligned while removing/installing -- I don't want to buy a $65 21527659112 rod! And per fora I'll triple check wires, cables, etc clearance before raising rear frame.

Clutch assembly should arrive Tuesday 22 August. Thanks to previous owner I have special spline lube so I'll be good to go.

Thank you dirtrider.

 

WRT to disassembly I will check with previous owner on pivot pin maintenance. If it was done at 60K clutch replacement I'll defer to 78K major service when I'm more familiar with this motorcycle. The driveshaft looks more difficult than the clutch.

 

I have a drag racer friend to help me in Descanso and between us we have an extensive tool suite including transmission dolly. I will fabricate dowels to keep transmission supported and aligned while removing/installing -- I don't want to buy a $65 21527659112 rod! And per fora I'll triple check wires, cables, etc clearance before raising rear frame.

 

Clutch assembly should arrive Tuesday 22 August. Thanks to previous owner I have special spline lube so I'll be good to go.

Evening Bert

If you pull it out as an assembly then be VERY CAREFUL that you don't bend the clutch push rod (it can stick on the clutch end then slide out of the input shaft as the trans comes back)--If it does that then very easy to bend it.

Did you double check the adjustment at both the top and bottom? I was pretty sure I was going to be doing a clutch till I did the adjustments on both ends.

Now it's not new, but I've probably got another 15k on it.

Being that it's a cable, and possibly an old one, it might be stretched.

Scott