JMitchell Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 (edited) I replace the pads and decided to flush the brake lines with new fluid. When I was bleeding the left front caliper with the bleed nipple open the brake lever stopped movement as if I had closed the nipple. I was not able to get fluid to drain from the nipple. I removed the brake line to the caliper and pressed the brake handle again. The picture shows the material that came out of the brake line. I continued to flush fluid through the line. The brakes work fine and each disc heats up about the same after use. I am assuming the black rubber is from the inner lining of the lower flex line. Obviously it is time to replace the brake lines. Do you guys recommend SS or just ordering the factory lines. Thank you, John Edited September 9, 2017 by JMitchell Link to comment
Tri750 Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Galfer is one brand of SS line. I've used them for decades. They are very reasonably priced as well. Speigler is another good brand. The factory rubber lines are still ridiculously expensive. Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Spieglers from Rubber Chicken Racing Garage. The owner is a long-time BMW mech and knows exactly what you need. Link to comment
ltljohn Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 (edited) +1 on the Speigler. I replaced the lines on my RT and the kit fit out of the box with minor adjustment. It even came with the necessary tool to make the adjustments and good instructions. All the info you need HERE. Edited September 9, 2017 by ltljohn Link to comment
Lowndes Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 JMitchell, BEAUTIFUL bike!! Good "catch". You caught it in time before you had a serious problem like a busted brake line or a locked up caliper. DOT4 eats the OEM lines from the inside, and not just BMW brake lines. The OEM lines are ridiculously expensive and will decompose just like the ones you have. Spiegler and Galfer have complete kits for about $220 that are impervious to DOT4, a teflon (PTFE) liner tube with a braided SS sheath and a clear or colored plastic coating (which keeps the SS braided sheath from rubbing and eating up whatever it touches. The Spiegler kit comes with plastic jaws that you use to adjust the end fittings without scarring. These lines are flexible but do not twist at all. You will need to twist the end fitting to get it to line up with the caliper or master cyl. Also, because there are so many different colors of the lines and the end fittings, Spiegler makes each order on demand. They can also easily make the lines shorter or longer if you have raised the handle bars or lowered the foot peg mounts. You will need to replace all the flexible brake lines as they are the same age and condition as the one you show. Even the hydraulic clutch line and bleed line if you have one. I installed Spiegler on my R1100S a year ago after my front wheel locked up. The K1200RS came with Galfer. They are very similar in appearance. It's an easy one-day first-time job start to finish. A $30 Mityvac would be a big help in draining the systems and refilling, bleeding after the install. You might want to thoroughly clean the passages in the calipers. The crud you found will work its way down to the pistons and there is no way out by bleeding. This is the same crud that got into the passage between caliper halves and created a check valve that locked up my front wheel on the R1100S. More pics here: Caliper Cleaning R1100S Link to comment
Tri750 Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 (edited) Galfers use steel banjos vs Speiglers alum. They can be rotated as needed by reading directions. You insert a Phillips screwdriver into the banjo, grasp the crimped end of the banjo with the teeth of a pair of slip joint pliers after unclasping the pliers, that you hold fast, then twist the screwdriver in one direction only to align the banjo. If you pass your alignment point, continue around, don't reverse. Edited September 9, 2017 by Tri750 Link to comment
JMitchell Posted September 9, 2017 Author Share Posted September 9, 2017 Mahalo Guys, Great info. Disappointing to hear about the Dot 4. Link to comment
PAS Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Galfers use steel banjos vs Speiglers alum. They can be rotated as needed by reading directions. You insert a Phillips screwdriver into the banjo, grasp the crimped end of the banjo with the teeth of a pair of slip joint pliers after unclasping the pliers, that you hold fast, then twist the screwdriver in one direction only to align the banjo. If you pass your alignment point, continue around, don't reverse. The Galfers pictured on their site have aluminum banjo's. Link to comment
Tri750 Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 I know The Galfer race lines use alu, I may be behind the times as for Street use, I only knew of steel, but ok. Link to comment
Roger C Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 Bought Spiegler lines for my '96 R1100RT. No adjustments needed to fit any lines. Link to comment
Lowndes Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 (edited) DO NOT touch the aluminum (or alloy) banjos with anything metal. It is very easy to scar the sealing surfaces by putting a screwdriver in the bolt hole or clamping the faces which result in a permanent leak, a destroyed line, more $, another week of down time waiting on a replacement line and no ride this weekend. The copper or aluminum "washers" will not seal. This is the voice of experience telling you. Trust me on this. Take heed. Use a soft plastic or soft wood dowel to rotate the Galfer fittings, or use the soft plastic jaws and dowel the come with the Spiegler kit. And Don't torque a banjo bolt too tight, it's hollow and not nearly as strong as the lowest grade SAE or metric bolt of the same size. Edited September 10, 2017 by Lowndes Link to comment
bewareboy Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 I have a 04 R1150RT and replaced all the brake lines with Spiegler last year. I also replaced the clutch line thinking it would be prone to the same deterioration that the rubber brake lines are. When I removed the clutch line it is a much smaller diameter and I believe it is a different constructions from the rubber brake lines. Seems like maybe steel braided without the bulky plastic exterior coating that the Spiegler or Galfer brake lines have. Since I really didn't look that closely when I removed it and it was already off, I went ahead and replaced it with the Spiegler. Everythings working great. Link to comment
Easyrider5258 (Mark) Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 I replaced the front lines with Stainless and fitted a new original OE rubber line to the rear (The original had lasted 18 years so would see me out!) I was told a stainless on the rear produces a hard wooden feel to brake pedal due to the short run, I cant confirm this but am happy with the result on mine. Link to comment
Uffdalid Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 (edited) Edited February 21, 2018 by Uffdalid Link to comment
jelake Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Same as well, updated both the brake and the clutch lines to spiegler this past summer. My question though is has anyone ever replaced the smaller hard metal lines for their brake systems? I know on my Chevy 2500 (also a 2004) these were severely corroded due to time, cant imagine that the insides on the lines on the bike are much different after 14 years? Link to comment
Lowndes Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Same as well, updated both the brake and the clutch lines to spiegler this past summer. My question though is has anyone ever replaced the smaller hard metal lines for their brake systems? I know on my Chevy 2500 (also a 2004) these were severely corroded due to time, cant imagine that the insides on the lines on the bike are much different after 14 years? Darn good question. I didn't even consider it when I did mine but I've had rust problems in several car brake systems, too. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Same as well, updated both the brake and the clutch lines to spiegler this past summer. My question though is has anyone ever replaced the smaller hard metal lines for their brake systems? I know on my Chevy 2500 (also a 2004) these were severely corroded due to time, cant imagine that the insides on the lines on the bike are much different after 14 years? Afternoon jelake Unless you ride your BMW motorcycle through lots road salt, sticky mud with calcium in it then allow it to sit you will never get your steel lines to corrode like the Chev 2500 lines. Your BMW lines won't corrode on the inside because if they did you would also have severe corrosion inside your ABS controller. Link to comment
RTmutter Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 (edited) I just replaced the clutch line on my 2004 R1150RT along with a new slave cylinder from Beemer Boneyard. I used a Spiegler kit for the clutch line. The kit comes with the line running from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder but no replacement for the bleeder line coming off of the slave cylinder. Is that a concern? Is the bleeder line construction different than the clutch line? I am worried about the bleeder line failing after being on the bike for 14 years. Edited February 21, 2018 by RTmutter Link to comment
Eckhard Grohe Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 I know on my Chevy 2500 (also a 2004) these were severely corroded due to time, cant imagine that the insides on the lines on the bike are much different after 14 years? How often did you change the brake fluid on the truck?? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 I just replaced the clutch line on my 2004 R1150RT along with a new slave cylinder from Beemer Boneyard. I used a Spiegler kit for the clutch line. The kit comes with the line running from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder but no replacement for the bleeder line coming off of the slave cylinder. Is that a concern? Is the bleeder line construction different than the clutch line? I am worried about the bleeder line failing after being on the bike for 14 years. Afternoon RTmutter Personally I would be more worried about that bleeder line/hose failing than the main clutch hose failing. Over the years I have seen a number of those bleeder hoses fail but have yet to see a main clutch hose fail (now do keep in mind that most of those bleeder hoses probably failed due to someone heavy handing them during a clutch fluid service but they failed none the less) Link to comment
Paul De Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Assuming you changed your brake fluid every two years per standard practice, then you should have no issue with inside out corrosion on solid brake lines. If you have not changed brake fluid ever, then the solid brake lines are the least of your worries. Link to comment
Lowndes Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 I just replaced the clutch line on my 2004 R1150RT along with a new slave cylinder from Beemer Boneyard. I used a Spiegler kit for the clutch line. The kit comes with the line running from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder but no replacement for the bleeder line coming off of the slave cylinder. Is that a concern? Is the bleeder line construction different than the clutch line? I am worried about the bleeder line failing after being on the bike for 14 years. RT, You can order custom lines directly from Spiegler Custom Brake Lines. That's what I did. They don't charge that much for the service. In fact, they say that they custom build all orders because of all the possible color combinations. You have to tell them exactly what fittings on each end and the length and the colors. I used the OEM fitting on the free end (basically a coupling) but remover the factory fill ferule and replaced it with a regular bleeder nipple. The banjo on the slave cyl end is smaller than the brake line banjos - be sure to pick the right size, 10mm I think. I believe I ordered a 14" length line (same lines brake lines) and zip-tied the bleeder (inside the black foam rubber cushion) to the right lower passenger footpeg strut. Also, the replacement can be done with only removing the rear wheel and any hugger and the lower shock mount bolt to swing it up out of the way. I reused the OEM banjo screws: That's it laying on top of the swingarm tunnel: Can't really see it, but that's it with the black zip tie behind the lower passenger footpeg strut. This location keeps the line almost straight, outa sight, and handy for bleeding: Link to comment
Lowndes Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Better image here: #2 #3 Link to comment
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