MichiganBob Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Good Evening, I am about to change the rear unit oil and lube splines. I was reading on another thread that I should use a new nut and washer and red loctite. Seems like overkill. What do you think about this? Ride safe, Bob Link to comment
dirtrider Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Good Evening, I am about to change the rear unit oil and lube splines. I was reading on another thread that I should use a new nut and washer and red loctite. Seems like overkill. What do you think about this? Ride safe, Bob Morning Bob I think that we need to know what you are working on? Link to comment
MichiganBob Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 Good Morning DR, I'm working on a 2012 1200RT. There is a bolt and nut that comes out that releases the rear unit to expose the splines so they can be lubed. It looks like the nut is reinstalled to 42NM. However, I came across a thread that says that the nut and washer should be changed and that loctite red is recommended to fasten this nut. It seems like overkill and wondered what others on this forum think about this. Thanks and take good care. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Good Morning DR, I'm working on a 2012 1200RT. There is a bolt and nut that comes out that releases the rear unit to expose the splines so they can be lubed. It looks like the nut is reinstalled to 42NM. However, I came across a thread that says that the nut and washer should be changed and that loctite red is recommended to fasten this nut. It seems like overkill and wondered what others on this forum think about this. Thanks and take good care. Morning MichiganBob The bolt is the locking part as it comes with micro-encapsulation (solid locking compound) on it. At only 42nm torque you sure aren't stretching the bolt or deforming the nut so as long as everything looks good then reusing the original bolt & nut should work just fine. Unless the bolt micro-encapsulation looks like new (I doubt it) then a little Loctite 242 (blue) on the bolt threads is probably a good idea at reassembly. Link to comment
MichiganBob Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 Thanks for you thoughts DR. I was leaning toward blue as well. The red is a pain to remove and can sometimes lead to unanticipated consequences. I've used red on some assembly parts on my 02 when I replaced the clutch and slave but this was for more stressed components. Heading to the bourbon trail next week for some fine Kentucky riding. New lube and handlebar switches and away we go. Ride safe, B Link to comment
MichiganBob Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 Good Evening, Can anyone confirm that the bolt and nut that allows the rear drive to pivot down so you can access the splines is tightened to 42 newton meters on a 2012 1200RT? Thanks. Bob Link to comment
dirtrider Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Good Evening, Can anyone confirm that the bolt and nut that allows the rear drive to pivot down so you can access the splines is tightened to 42 newton meters on a 2012 1200RT? Thanks. Bob Evening Bob Yes, the link rear bolt/ nut torque is 42nm. Link to comment
MichiganBob Posted September 21, 2017 Author Share Posted September 21, 2017 Thanks DR. I wondered what that is called. Link fits well. For those doing the rear end gear oil, I found some very cool plastic bottles with an angle tip on Amazon for about five bucks a pair. I believe they are used for dying hair products. Take care, Bob Link to comment
[gone] Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 (edited) Thanks DR. I wondered what that is called. Link fits well. For those doing the rear end gear oil, I found some very cool plastic bottles with an angle tip on Amazon for about five bucks a pair. I believe they are used for dying hair products. There's a Sally's Beauty Supply store 8 blocks from me that sells them for about $3. They're demarced in both English and Metric. One version has a pivot tip whose angle can be adjusted. I've done a couple of refills with these now; can't live without 'em. Edited September 21, 2017 by WarpShatner7 Link to comment
Stonecritter Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Good Evening, use a new nut and washer and red loctite. Seems like overkill. What do you think about this? Ride safe, Bob I just went through this a few weeks ago. It appears the nut is not a standard nut but is slightly oval. I replaced both nut and washer although I cannot find any reason to replace washer. I did use red loctite. http://www.r1200gs.info/forum/14-maintenance-modifications/3960-torque-spec-nut-replacement.html Link to comment
MichiganBob Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 An oval nut ... well I'll be, never heard of such an item before. Take care, Bob Link to comment
dirtrider Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 An oval nut ... well I'll be, never heard of such an item before. Take care, Bob Afternoon Bob They are called "torque-prevailing-nut". The whole nut usually isn't oval but the end of the threaded area is upset into a slight oval so it is tight on the bolt threads to retain torque. Link to comment
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