Jump to content
IGNORED

R1200RT Audio including radar detector - bluetooth or wired?


Bill_Walker

Recommended Posts

Bill_Walker

I just got a new-to-me '15 R1200RT, and I've been through a gazillion threads here, and to my surprise, haven't found this issue addressed.

 

I want to get audio from the bike audio system, the Nav VI GPS, AND my Valentine1 radar detector into my helmet. On my R1150RT, I did this using an Autocom system with wired connections from my Garmin Zumo 660, the V1, and an iPod. I find I can plug the iPod into the R1200RT's audio system (with the cable I had left over from my 2008 Mini Cooper!), so that input's solved.

 

Bluetooth connections from the Nav VI and bike seem clear. I've read lots about that (and about pairing problems, mostly eventually sorted). To get the radar input, I'm guessing I need either a Sena SR10 or SM10 interface, or something similar, but I don't know which. Has anybody here done this?

 

For wired connections, it's less clear to me. I saw one thread where someone connected a transformer to the speaker outputs to provide an audio input. That looked like a pain to install, but once installed, avoided all the pairing and charging and sound quality hassles of Bluetooth. This would be one-way only, so I wouldn't have any phone functionality. Do I care? I don't want to make or receive calls while I'm riding, but I can see where maybe asking Siri stuff could be useful.

 

So, wired or wireless, and how?

Link to comment

Hi Bill... good luck on those issues. I do not have much for you in the way to answers--- just wanted to say Hi.

 

 

Link to comment

Plug your radar detector audio out into the Aux input in the right hand glove box. I can't remember if that overrides music when the detector goes off or not. If I get a chance today I'll try to recreate the connection.

 

What I am doing now is plugging the radar detector audio out into the Aux input of my Sena 20S. When the detector goes off, it overrides everything and you know you've been painted.

Link to comment
roadriderg

I use an autocom super pro automatic avi to do this connection. as follows:

 

1. Bike audio using autocom 2275 custom matched by rocketmoto.com

for the 2014 on up bmw audio. This is switched for bike speaker or autocom . They now recommend the motecello speaker bridge now as less expensive alternative.

2. navigator iv to autocom via autocom bluetooth doggle at autocom box. This gives me navigation and phone calls.

3. I use a j&m cb that runs to the autocom via custom isolator.

4. I use a adaptive tech radar that i run to the j&M cb audio input.via ground loop isolator. Although you could run it directly to the autocom with a isolator.

Autocom unit is under the passenger seat this a triggered by a anti-kickback relay(diode protection) on the left side of the bike.

 

All works seamlessly with passenger com also. Wired to my helmets with autocom headsets although I replaced the speakers with j&m 55mm speakers.

 

I had all the autocom gear from previous bikes so the inital outlay for the bmw was not as hard. I only needed the 2275 adaptor.

 

Gary

Edited by roadriderg
Link to comment

Bill, I rechecked the Aux connection and the only way radar detector audio comes through is when you select Aux from the audio panel (no music, only an annoying hummmmmm until the detector goes off). That's undoubtedly why I stuck with the direct connect to the helmet aux input.

Link to comment

I have reluctantly transitioned from Autocom to a Bluetooth system and the transition has been better and easier than expected. This may sound complicated but it really is not, especially for those who have wired up their bikes to power a radar detector and have wired up an Autocom unit.

 

1) Purchase and install a Motochello Speaker Bridge as shown here: https://www.motochello.com/wp-content/uploads/Speaker-Bridge-Installation-16w.pdf. This is similar to an Autocom 2275 (or similar 2273) used by folks like us for many years to tap into a bikes Audio system.

 

2) Purchase a Sena SM10 Dual Stream Bluetooth transmitter. If you don't want to worry about recharging the SM10 purchase the unit from Rocketmoto where they will also sell you a power cord you can use to power the SM10 from your bike. SM10 is found here: https://www.rocketmoto.com/sena-sm10-dual-stream-bluetooth-transmitter, SM10 power lead here: https://www.rocketmoto.com/sena-sm10-and-sr10-direct-wire-power-adapter.

 

3) Connect the V1 to the SM10 as you would have with the Autocom. This assumes you were connecting the V1 with a filtered/isolation lead like an Autocom 4036. Connect the V1 to the Aux input on the SM10. Connect the speaker bridge to the SM10 Audio IN.

 

4) Pair the SM10 to a Bluetooth headset.

 

This retains all wonder wheel control of the bike's audio system and provides good quality audio to a Bluetooth headset.

 

If you wanted to simplify or don't have or want a Bluetooth headset you could eliminate the SM10. Many of the K1600 folks have been using this speaker bridge and a 2 into 1 splitter to join the audio out from the bike and out from the radar detector on the 2 side of the 2 into 1 split to earbuds or other wired speakers.

 

I recently completed my fourth long distance tour with this set up paired to a PackTalk headset and it worked so much better than Autocom ever did. Much simpler with better audio quality too.

Link to comment
Bill_Walker
I have reluctantly transitioned from Autocom to a Bluetooth system and the transition has been better and easier than expected. This may sound complicated but it really is not, especially for those who have wired up their bikes to power a radar detector and have wired up an Autocom unit.

 

1) Purchase and install a Motochello Speaker Bridge as shown here: https://www.motochello.com/wp-content/uploads/Speaker-Bridge-Installation-16w.pdf. This is similar to an Autocom 2275 (or similar 2273) used by folks like us for many years to tap into a bikes Audio system.

 

2) Purchase a Sena SM10 Dual Stream Bluetooth transmitter. If you don't want to worry about recharging the SM10 purchase the unit from Rocketmoto where they will also sell you a power cord you can use to power the SM10 from your bike. SM10 is found here: https://www.rocketmoto.com/sena-sm10-dual-stream-bluetooth-transmitter, SM10 power lead here: https://www.rocketmoto.com/sena-sm10-and-sr10-direct-wire-power-adapter.

 

3) Connect the V1 to the SM10 as you would have with the Autocom. This assumes you were connecting the V1 with a filtered/isolation lead like an Autocom 4036. Connect the V1 to the Aux input on the SM10. Connect the speaker bridge to the SM10 Audio IN.

 

4) Pair the SM10 to a Bluetooth headset.

 

This retains all wonder wheel control of the bike's audio system and provides good quality audio to a Bluetooth headset.

 

If you wanted to simplify or don't have or want a Bluetooth headset you could eliminate the SM10. Many of the K1600 folks have been using this speaker bridge and a 2 into 1 splitter to join the audio out from the bike and out from the radar detector on the 2 side of the 2 into 1 split to earbuds or other wired speakers.

 

I recently completed my fourth long distance tour with this set up paired to a PackTalk headset and it worked so much better than Autocom ever did. Much simpler with better audio quality too.

 

This sounds like the right answer, but I've got one question on it. I'm thinking GPS audio is going through the bike's "speaker" connections (since the bike doesn't know it has a Bluetooth connection at that point, so both music and GPS would be fed into the SM10. Is that right? And of course, there's no connection to my phone in this setup, unless I pair it with the Sena. But I need it to be paired with the NAV VI for traffic and weather (one of the cool new features of the NAV VI).

Link to comment

Bill, you can pair your phone to the GPS. Then when you make or receive a call, it will be going from the SENA or similar headset to the SM10, then through the wires to the GPS and to the phone, like it did with your Autocom unit

At least that is what I have been told. I am in the process of converting from Autocom to Bluetooth and hope that a SM10 and a 20S with my old Autocom wires will do the trick.

 

Link to comment
Bill_Walker
Bill, you can pair your phone to the GPS. Then when you make or receive a call, it will be going from the SENA or similar headset to the SM10, then through the wires to the GPS and to the phone, like it did with your Autocom unit

At least that is what I have been told. I am in the process of converting from Autocom to Bluetooth and hope that a SM10 and a 20S with my old Autocom wires will do the trick.

 

I think that's only true if I have the bike audio paired to the Sena via Bluetooth. In the scenario above, bike/GPS audio is being picked up from the bike's speaker wires, which are unidirectional. But it may be that all I need is the SM10 to feed in the V1. But, as mentioned, I'd like to hear from somebody who's actually done it this way.

 

I think the resulting pairing from that setup would be:

1) Phone paired to Nav VI

2) Bike paired to Sena

3) SM10 with V1 paired to Sena.

 

I've heard the audio quality of the bike's Bluetooth is pretty bad, though.

 

Here's the key question: if I DON'T CARE about making phone calls, is there any advantage to having bidirectional communication with my phone? Will it be useful, say, to be able to ask Siri to do things? If not, then the setup Ralphie detailed seems like the way to go.

 

In thinking further, it seems I need the SM10 either way if I'm going Bluetooth, and the only question is whether to add the Motochello bridge. So I can try it without it first, and then add the bridge if I don't like it.

Link to comment
John in VA

 

...

In thinking further, it seems I need the SM10 either way if I'm going Bluetooth, and the only question is whether to add the Motochello bridge. So I can try it without it first, and then add the bridge if I don't like it.

 

You don't mention music streaming but FYI your phone, Nav and 20S are Bluetooth 4.1 and can stream almost 10 times the data rate of the SM10's BT 2.1 so I'd be concerned about music quality through the SM10. (iPhone 5S streamed to my 20S sounds great -- bike's streaming to the 20S is unlistenable).

 

Bike speaker output through a MotoChello into an SM10 transmitter may not be any better than the bike's own BT 2.1, although I've never tried one. For just Nav and RD prompts it would be fine. There are many compact BT 4.1 transmitters out there that are much cheaper if you want good music.

Link to comment
Bill_Walker

You don't mention music streaming but FYI your phone, Nav and 20S are Bluetooth 4.1 and can stream almost 10 times the data rate of the SM10's BT 2.1 so I'd be concerned about music quality through the SM10. (iPhone 5S streamed to my 20S sounds great -- bike's streaming to the 20S is unlistenable).

 

Can your iPhone be paired with both the 20S and the Nav? As mentioned, I like it paired with the Nav VI for the new traffic and weather features. I'm currently using an iPod nano as my music source, but could use my phone instead if I bike-power the phone (which could be a good idea anyway due to the traffic/weather use). Current plan is to have it plugged in to the bike audio system, which works now for playing through the speakers and also provides power.

 

Bike speaker output through a MotoChello into an SM10 transmitter may not be any better than the bike's own BT 2.1, although I've never tried one. For just Nav and RD prompts it would be fine. There are many compact BT 4.1 transmitters out there that are much cheaper if you want good music.

 

I don't have the "golden ears" of my youth any more, and in a noisy bike environment, I'm not sure I'll notice the difference. But point taken. The catch, then, is that I'd need one with inputs for both audio and radar. So far, the SM10 is the only dual-input one I've seen, but I'll admit I haven't spent much time searching for that.

Link to comment
John in VA
Can your iPhone be paired with both the 20S and the Nav?

 

Yes, my Nav V and iPhone 5S are both paired to my 20S (or sometimes a 10C).

Link to comment
Bill_Walker

Well, my 20S and SM10 arrived today, and I've been having some fun trying to get things working. It seems like pairing the BMW audio system and the SM10 are mutually exclusive in some fashion. I can pair them both, but if I've got music playing on the BMW system (the sound quality of which, coming from my iPod, I'm perfectly happy with, at least in the garage) and I turn on the SM10, I no longer hear the BMW audio. I've tried various combinations of pairing as phone 1 and phone 2. And I can't pair both of them AND the Nav VI. It's looking like the Motochello bridge on the speaker outputs will be the solution, so the 20S will be paired only with the Nav VI and the SM10.

Link to comment
roadriderg

I tried to link bike audio via autocom bluetooth dongle to the autocom. The audio was not very good. I am not sure what the autocom bluetooth version is on the dongle.

 

Direct wire via the autocom 2275 is much better.

 

 

Link to comment

This is a bit of a loaded issue as you have so many Bluetooth pairing options that there are several if/then scenarios so I'll try to answer without opening too many cans of worms.

 

Assuming you do not pair your Nav to your headset, you do need to have the bike's audio turned on in order for the GPS guidance to be heard. I rarely listen to music when riding so needing the audio system to be on to hear the GPS was not ideal for me. I found if I use the AUX or USB connection with the audio system on and nothing connected to the AUX or USB setting I can hear the GPS without needing to have the radio on.

 

As others said and you probably already discovered you can pair the phone to both the GPS and headset.

 

Two of the reasons I use a wired connection from the bike's audio system to the SM10 are:

 

1) The audio quality is good.

2) It eliminates one of several Bluetooth pairings and give me greater flexibility to pair other items which would be more difficult to tie into my overall audio set up.

 

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
I tried to link bike audio via autocom bluetooth dongle to the autocom. The audio was not very good. I am not sure what the autocom bluetooth version is on the dongle.

 

Direct wire via the autocom 2275 is much better.

 

 

The 2275 is a fine choice if you can get one. They do degrade audio quality a bit. The Motochello Speaker bridge does the same thing without as much audio quality loss and is probably a bit easier to tie into the SM10. Neither is difficult to use, the Motochello is just a bit newer design and enjoys some benefits coming to market after learning how to improve on the 2275.

Link to comment
Bill_Walker
Assuming you do not pair your Nav to your headset, you do need to have the bike's audio turned on in order for the GPS guidance to be heard. I rarely listen to music when riding so needing the audio system to be on to hear the GPS was not ideal for me. I found if I use the AUX or USB connection with the audio system on and nothing connected to the AUX or USB setting I can hear the GPS without needing to have the radio on.

 

Hmm, yes, that's a configuration I haven't tried, which would leave a pairing free for the V1 via the SM10. It would mean that I'd have no phone connectivity. I still haven't decided whether I want any. It's not clear there's any access to Siri with the phone paired through the Nav VI, and that's all I'd want it for (and, as mentioned, I want the phone paired with the Nav VI so it can retrieve traffic and weather info). Although, I suppose seeing who called or texted might tell me whether to pull over and get in touch.

 

In any event, I've ordered the Motochello audio bridge.

 

On another note, in a quick test of a new iPod cable today (the old one from my Mini Cooper was glitchy), I discovered that the bike doesn't play audio through the speakers if it's been paired with a headset and the headset isn't on. Although perhaps I just didn't wait long enough for the connection attempt to time out.

Link to comment
Bill, you can pair your phone to the GPS. Then when you make or receive a call, it will be going from the SENA or similar headset to the SM10, then through the wires to the GPS and to the phone, like it did with your Autocom unit

At least that is what I have been told. I am in the process of converting from Autocom to Bluetooth and hope that a SM10 and a 20S with my old Autocom wires will do the trick.

 

I think that's only true if I have the bike audio paired to the Sena via Bluetooth. In the scenario above, bike/GPS audio is being picked up from the bike's speaker wires, which are unidirectional. But it may be that all I need is the SM10 to feed in the V1. But, as mentioned, I'd like to hear from somebody who's actually done it this way.

 

I think the resulting pairing from that setup would be:

1) Phone paired to Nav VI

2) Bike paired to Sena

3) SM10 with V1 paired to Sena.

 

I've heard the audio quality of the bike's Bluetooth is pretty bad, though.

 

Here's the key question: if I DON'T CARE about making phone calls, is there any advantage to having bidirectional communication with my phone? Will it be useful, say, to be able to ask Siri to do things? If not, then the setup Ralphie detailed seems like the way to go.

 

In thinking further, it seems I need the SM10 either way if I'm going Bluetooth, and the only question is whether to add the Motochello bridge. So I can try it without it first, and then add the bridge if I don't like it.

 

Your path forward seems perfectly logical. The only thing you give up pairing the bike to via Bluetooth vs. the Motochello speaker bridge is volume control via the "wonder wheel" near the handlebar. If you connect the bike audio to the SM10 via the Motochello bridge you will be able to raise and lower volume with the wonder wheel and/or 20S. Bluetooth directly to Sena leaves volume control to Sena only. Not a big deal, just a point of information.

 

I think you have this well sorted. Drop me a PM if I can help any further as I don't always get notification when new post are made here.

Link to comment
Bill, you can pair your phone to the GPS. Then when you make or receive a call, it will be going from the SENA or similar headset to the SM10, then through the wires to the GPS and to the phone, like it did with your Autocom unit

At least that is what I have been told. I am in the process of converting from Autocom to Bluetooth and hope that a SM10 and a 20S with my old Autocom wires will do the trick.

 

I think that's only true if I have the bike audio paired to the Sena via Bluetooth. In the scenario above, bike/GPS audio is being picked up from the bike's speaker wires, which are unidirectional. But it may be that all I need is the SM10 to feed in the V1. But, as mentioned, I'd like to hear from somebody who's actually done it this way.

 

I think the resulting pairing from that setup would be:

1) Phone paired to Nav VI

2) Bike paired to Sena

3) SM10 with V1 paired to Sena.

 

I've heard the audio quality of the bike's Bluetooth is pretty bad, though.

 

Here's the key question: if I DON'T CARE about making phone calls, is there any advantage to having bidirectional communication with my phone? Will it be useful, say, to be able to ask Siri to do things? If not, then the setup Ralphie detailed seems like the way to go.

 

In thinking further, it seems I need the SM10 either way if I'm going Bluetooth, and the only question is whether to add the Motochello bridge. So I can try it without it first, and then add the bridge if I don't like it.

 

Your path forward seems perfectly logical. The only thing you give up pairing the bike to via Bluetooth vs. the Motochello speaker bridge is volume control via the "wonder wheel" near the handlebar. If you connect the bike audio to the SM10 via the Motochello bridge you will be able to raise and lower volume with the wonder wheel and/or 20S. Bluetooth directly to Sena leaves volume control to Sena only. Not a big deal, just a point of information.

 

I think you have this well sorted. Drop me a PM if I can help any further as I don't always get notification when new post are made here.

 

Hold on, there is another possibility for the V-1 connection.

Valentines website has now a Bluetooth module available.

With that you should be able to pair your V-1 with your phone.

Then your phone with the Navigator VI and that with your Sena 20S.

This will eliminate the need for the SM-10.

It will also elevate the priority of the V-1 onto the same level as a phone conversation, at least I hope so.

Dave (workin' them angels) is testing it sometimes this week.

 

 

Link to comment
Bill_Walker
Hold on, there is another possibility for the V-1 connection.

Valentines website has now a Bluetooth module available.

With that you should be able to pair your V-1 with your phone.

Then your phone with the Navigator VI and that with your Sena 20S.

This will eliminate the need for the SM-10.

It will also elevate the priority of the V-1 onto the same level as a phone conversation, at least I hope so.

Dave (workin' them angels) is testing it sometimes this week.

 

 

As I understand it, that module remotes the V1 display and other functions to your phone screen, which means your phone has to be mounted where you can see it. I would bet that it only passes audio to Bluetooth if you're listening to Bluetooth audio from your phone, i.e., using your phone as a music source. That's been my experience with other phone apps using Bluetooth in the car, at any rate.

Link to comment

Well Bill, that is all stuff I don't know yet.

I hope Dave can shed some light on it after his test ride this week, or at the UnRally.

I been told you can hear the V-1 signals through the phone, without having to look at the phone. But it may only come through as a notification and not as constant sound.

All I know, life used be easier with the Autocom units.

What I have experienced so far with my Sena 20S and the SM-10, is that if you have a phone call or a intercom, the SM-10 gets muted.

This is because Sena decided that the music channel is the bottom of the priority list. So you will not hear your V-1 if you are playing music from your phone or GPS directly to the 20S.

The SR-10 unit, which is a B2B module, is higher up in the priority list. And it should be able over ride the music channel.

You may want to check the RKA website, it has lots of YouTube videos, you may find some good information there.

 

Link to comment
Bill_Walker

Not an issue for me, because my music will be coming in THROUGH the SM10. Radar will go into the AUX port, which has higher priority than the other port.

Link to comment
Bill_Walker

But yeah, the wired comm units have an advantage in that the vendor is in complete control of the prioritization of inputs. Bluetooth units are occasionally at the mercy of the defined Bluetooth protocols.

Link to comment
Bill_Walker

So, I'm thinking of mounting the SM10 and my V1 remote audio adapter, and possibly the Motochello speaker bridge, if I can fit it in there, in the left "glovebox" on the RTW. But I'm wondering if they'll stand the heat, especially during 100+ degree desert crossings. The Rider's Manual warns that those compartments can become quite warm. Any experience here?

Link to comment

I just installed a new Cobra with the Bluetooth feature. Paired to my iPhone which is paired to my SMH 10. It talks to me and gives me an alert sound as well. Seems to work good. It's very small in size. Smaller than a pack of cigarettes.

Link to comment
So, I'm thinking of mounting the SM10 and my V1 remote audio adapter, and possibly the Motochello speaker bridge, if I can fit it in there, in the left "glovebox" on the RTW. But I'm wondering if they'll stand the heat, especially during 100+ degree desert crossings. The Rider's Manual warns that those compartments can become quite warm. Any experience here?

 

The Motochello bridge isn't exactly tiny -- it actually seems large for its function. Anyway, I wired my Motochello at the Alpine unit and it sits under the rear saddle, since the "glove boxes" are premium space. I do know my iPhone gets pretty warm in the right glove box being right over the radiator. On hot days if I know I'll be on a long ride I run a USB extension out of the glove box so it charges either in my pocket or in my tank bag, since charging adds heat.

Link to comment
Bill_Walker
The Motochello bridge isn't exactly tiny -- it actually seems large for its function.

 

I've been wondering about that. There's no size info on Rocket Moto's site. Mine is due to arrive tomorrow. The wiring diagram would appear to indicate that it's a passive unit, i.e., no power connections are required. Is that right?

 

If it sits under the rear saddle, where did you run the audio output to in your setup? I'm a bit worried about picking up ignition noise or something if I have to run it very far to get to the SM10. That also seems like an inconvenient location should you ever want to flip the switch to use the speakers.

Link to comment

I originally had my Motochello speaker bridge and SM10 under the passenger seat. It was not ideal with the owners manual there so I moved it under the rear rack. I can tuck it under there when I don't need access to it and pull it out when I do.

 

I was going to hide it under the right side painted plastic panel under the seats but did not like the limited access so I just used that space to store some of the excess length from the cords.

 

Since I am powering the SM10 from the bike I'm using a ground loop isolator like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497463631&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5+mm+stereo+isolator, between the speaker bridge and SM10. When I used to run wired communication systems that feedback without isolated connections was a real concern. I've run the speaker bridge connected to the SM10 with and without the isolator and don't notice noise with or without the isolator. I just run it because I own it and it can't hurt.

 

I've never been a fan of music blasting from a bike so I never have music through the bike speaker. However, if I did, it would not be difficult to get under the passenger seat and reach up under the rear rack and getting access to the speaker bridge switch.

 

I do not believe you could easily fit the speaker bridge in the fairing pocket. It would be taking real estate which is too valuable for my taste.

 

I've connected this type of speaker bridge to six BMW Alpine units. The earlier installs I tapped into the Alpine unit real close to the Alpine unit where BMW left the wires unwrapped. When I sold those bikes and needed to reconnect the wires I did not have as much wire to play with. In recent installs I peel back the tape holding the wires together and make the connections a couple of inches further away from the Alpine unit. It gives my hands more room to play with on the initial install and more room to play with when I reconnect the wires when it is time to sell the bike.

 

 

Link to comment

MotoChello is a passive switch/bridge. You're right that putting it under the saddle is inconvenient for access to its slider switch but I decided that it's too bulky to keep up front and devised a separate DPST speaker switch while maintaining the MC's bridge function. I chose not make the harness wire cuts that allow the MC's switch to cut off the speakers. By not cutting the harness the bike's speakers remain active when switching the MC's 3.5 audio output.

 

Instead, I set the MC's switch to the 3.5 output and separately wired a 2-pole DPST round mini switch into the speakers' power leads up front. Those wires are very easy to get to by removing the speaker grill bezels. That way I'm using the MC only as a bridge for balanced 3.5 output of the bike's audio into a tiny Bluetooth 4.1 transmitter placed under the rear saddle next to the MC. The transmitter uses USB for power so I tapped a DC step-down USB connector into the bike's rear accessory connector, also under the rear saddle.

 

For now I have the waterproof DPST round mini rocker switch loose in the left glove box but eventually get around to drilling a .8" hole on the left audio panel to mount it next to the bike's round audio buttons. There's no ignition noise.

 

It sounds like a complicated rig but now the iPhone/Sena20S/NavV/Sirius/Wonderwheel all work well together Bluetoothed into two helmets (also intercom), bypassing the bike's sketchy Bluetooth, and I can easily switch the bike's speakers off while listening to helmet speakers (or vice versa).

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W52N8XW/

https://vetco.net/products/dpst-waterproof-round-rocker-switch-on-off-16a-green-12v

 

Link to comment
Bill_Walker

So, after taking off the tupperware today (and I thought it was a pain taking it off my 1150! Hah!), I'm rethinking putting electronics in the left glovebox. I think I can fit it all in there, but you need to remove the box to get the tupperware off, and figuring out how to route the wiring in there in a way that's easy to disconnect looks like a real pain.

 

In truth, I'll probably never turn on the bike's speakers, unless my BT receiver dies and I really, really need GPS directions. Seems unlikely. So mounting the speaker bridge under the seat seems OK. I'm more concerned about the SM10, because I've read some comments on it that it sometimes needs a push of the button to get it to pair. That'd be a pain if it's under the back seat! Also, that makes a long run of the audio cable from the V1 remote audio adapter (which also needs a home. I'm now thinking of either velcro on top of the clutch master cylinder, or putting it in my tank bag. But I was kinda trying to avoid being tank bag dependent). Of course, if I don't mount the SM10 there, I'll have a long audio run to it from the Motochello. Routing the wiring on this thing looks like it's going to be loads of fun. That bike is _dense_!

 

 

Edited by Bill_Walker
Link to comment
nh_handyman

I've been wondering the same thing - I suspect I'll do this mod in the fall - anyway - I was thinking, like you, that under the seat was a PITA - but it really isn't - its MUCH easier than being under the tupperware.

Link to comment

Take a peek here how to take off the tupperware off the current RT: http://www.iliumworks.com/BMW_Motorcycle_Accessories.cfm?pn=30%2D200BL&pID=98. There is a video here that shows us how to do it. Though compact and densely packed, this RT is not too bad to remove the body work when we have a little help showing the way.

 

I just removed the bodywork and followed the existing bike wiring from the back of the bike to the handlebars for the power and audio for the radar detector.

Link to comment
Bill_Walker
I just removed the bodywork and followed the existing bike wiring from the back of the bike to the handlebars for the power and audio for the radar detector.

 

That's my plan as well. Did you take the tank off to get at the part of it that runs under the tank, or did you just fish it through there? I worry a little about running stuff through there that's not tied down. I'll be running power and ground and control for my Clearwater Darlas, a phone cord for power to the V1, power and ground for my tank bag, and audio from the V1 audio adapter. I'm not a fan of using chassis grounds when audio is involved. Anyway, that seems like quite a few wires to run through that area without securing them.

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
Did you take the tank off to get at the part of it that runs under the tank, or did you just fish it through there? I worry a little about running stuff through there that's not tied down. I'll be running power and ground and control for my Clearwater Darlas, a phone cord for power to the V1, power and ground for my tank bag, and audio from the V1 audio adapter. I'm not a fan of using chassis grounds when audio is involved.

 

It has been a while since I completed this but did have a cord for my Adaptiv TPX radar and my Zumo 590 running from the back of the bike to the handlebars and those are big cables which will about equal the combined number of cords you are running.

 

I did not remove the tank and really don't like leaving wires just hanging around so I know I had them zip tied to an existing wire harness running from the front to back of the bike. I just don't remember exactly how it was done but it was not very difficult.

Link to comment
Bill_Walker
Did you take the tank off to get at the part of it that runs under the tank, or did you just fish it through there? I worry a little about running stuff through there that's not tied down. I'll be running power and ground and control for my Clearwater Darlas, a phone cord for power to the V1, power and ground for my tank bag, and audio from the V1 audio adapter. I'm not a fan of using chassis grounds when audio is involved.

 

It has been a while since I completed this but did have a cord for my Adaptiv TPX radar and my Zumo 590 running from the back of the bike to the handlebars and those are big cables which will about equal the combined number of cords you are running.

 

I did not remove the tank and really don't like leaving wires just hanging around so I know I had them zip tied to an existing wire harness running from the front to back of the bike. I just don't remember exactly how it was done but it was not very difficult.

 

I found a path that didn't follow the factory harness under the tank that I could run with only minimal fishing and that leaves the whole run visible. Basically over the top of the cylinder, around the bottom of the radiator catch tank, and then up. I enclosed everything but the clearwater data cable (because it wouldn't fit) in split loom for protection.

Link to comment
  • 1 month later...
Bill_Walker
So how is all your bridge ans S10 , Valentine working out?

 

It's all working, but the hardest part was figuring out that I had a defective SM10! It wouldn't power up all the time. I had thought the Rocket Moto direct wire power harness (which is clearly a disassembled-shortened-plug removed Sena cigarette lighter charger) had failed. The SM10 (with internal battery disconnected) would not power up from that adapter, either wired into the bike or, later, hooked up to my workbench power supply. But it would power up from the USB cable plugged in to a USB wall charger! I sent the harness back, they said the harness tested fine but sent me a new one anyway. Same behavior. The SM10 also would not power up when plugged in to the cigarette lighter charger from my 20S.

 

It was really weird. The SM10 cig charger puts out 12V instead of USB-standard 5V, while the 20S cig charger puts out 5V. But the SM10 would ONLY power up from the 5V wall wart, not from the 5V cig charger or the 12V cig charger!

 

I finally got another SM10, and it works as expected.

 

The only thing I don't like with this setup is that when the GPS prompts me, it completely mutes all other audio for a few seconds (it's got a separate pairing to the 20S). So if I get a radar alert while the GPS is talking, I'm in trouble. I can probably get around this by not even having the 20S paired to the GPS, so the GPS audio is played through the bike system. But that means I lose phone connectivity (which I'm not sure I have a use for, anyway).

Link to comment
  • 5 weeks later...

Remind me how you have everything paired. What is hard wired to the SM10 and what is Bluetooth connected to the 20S? I've got mine set up where I can get GPS directions from the Nav V, bike audio and radar alerts.

 

Your suspicion is correct, you will likely have to give up something but we can probably figure it out where the things you probably use regularly like GPS prompts don't have to override intercom or radar alerts. I had the same problem initially where the GPS muted everything and now have it sorted.

 

Remind me of the connections and we'll see if I can give some options which may work better.

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
Remind me how you have everything paired. What is hard wired to the SM10 and what is Bluetooth connected to the 20S? I've got mine set up where I can get GPS directions from the Nav V, bike audio and radar alerts.

 

Your suspicion is correct, you will likely have to give up something but we can probably figure it out where the things you probably use regularly like GPS prompts don't have to override intercom or radar alerts. I had the same problem initially where the GPS muted everything and now have it sorted.

 

Remind me of the connections and we'll see if I can give some options which may work better.

 

Currently have the bike audio system (via a Motochello bridge) and my V1 connected to the Sena SM10, which is paired to my Sena 20S headset.

 

My Nav VI is also paired to the Sena 20S headset.

 

My iPhone is paired to the Nav VI.

 

Right now, GPS prompts silence music and V1 for a few seconds. I think I could unpair the 20S from the Nav VI, which would result in GPS prompts being "shared" through the bike audio system, and it would fix this problem. I would give up the ability to make and receive phone calls, which I'm not all that excited about anyway. I thought I might have access to Siri, but that doesn't seem to be the case. I've taken one call while on the bike, and it was one I needed to take, so that was useful, but in general, I can wait and return calls when I stop (and I don't get that many).

Link to comment

Hi, kids! Here's how I had everything working (and also charged) on my KGT:

 

RD under the fairing, powered through a fused power block

 

SM10 attached to the right speaker grill.

 

An adapter for the USB plug to convert it to dual USB, routed under the fairings.

 

One USB went to my phone, to keep it charged.

 

One USB went to the SM10, to keep it charged.

 

RD audio out into a stereo to mono adapter to one of the SM10 3.5mm inputs

 

Phone audio out via 3.5mm cord to the other SM10 input

 

MotoChello bridge (dangit, sold the thing!) to turn the speakers off (unscrew the Alpine amp and turn it upside down, makes it much easier to install the bridge).

 

Sena BT paired to the SM10 (turn the phone BT off), and also paired to the bike. Wonder wheel controlled volume, I could listen to the radio (NPR) or phone music, hear the RD, hear GPS instructions, hear wife's instructions.

 

Now: I've rid myself of the KGT and have a slighlty used RT in its place, as of yesterday. Time to start farkling. I have a couple questions which are slightly related to this thread:

 

1. I kept the Nav IV. It fits the cradle and powers up. If I pair the bike with the Sena (I see a menu option for BT pairing) will the Nav IV send instructions? I've heard this only works with the Nav V or VI. And will I need to get another bridge, or will the BT pairing turn the speakers off?

 

2. Ah, hell, I forgot the other question. :dopeslap:

Link to comment
1. I kept the Nav IV. It fits the cradle and powers up. If I pair the bike with the Sena (I see a menu option for BT pairing) will the Nav IV send instructions? I've heard this only works with the Nav V or VI. And will I need to get another bridge, or will the BT pairing turn the speakers off?

 

I have no idea whether the audio out from the Nav IV will go to the audio system, but you can, I would assume, pair the Nav IV directly to your headset. As mentioned in this thread, I currently have my Sena 20S paired to both the SM10 and the Nav VI.

Link to comment
I think I could unpair the 20S from the Nav VI, which would result in GPS prompts being "shared" through the bike audio system, and it would fix this problem. I would give up the ability to make and receive phone calls, which I'm not all that excited about anyway.

 

If you have not already unpaired the Nav VI from the 20S it will solve the muting issue you are having. Let the Nav VI audio feed through the bike audio via the Motochello bridge and you are in business.

 

With your Valentine and bike audio feeding into the SM10 pair the SM10 to the 20S and you still have a Bluetooth connection available on the 20S. If you want to make/receive calls you can pair the phone directly to the 20S. You give up the interface of the Nav VI which is convenient. However, voice commands and/or learning the tap sequence on the 20S to receive and initiate calls works well for many. It may work for you too.

 

I almost never use the phone in general let alone on the bike so my other work around may not work for all. What I've done is keep my phone and Nav paired but turn off the Bluetooth connection between my Nav and Bluetooth headset by disconnecting the Bluetooth headset in the Nav. If I felt I wanted/needed to make a call and wanted to use the Nav interface I just reconnect the headset in the Nav settings, wait a few moments and am ready to make or receive calls. When that is done I turn the Bluetooth connection to the headset off in the Nav again.

 

Folks who pair the phone directly to their Bluetooth headset say that is much easier to do than my work around. After doing it a few times I'm sure I'd agree.

 

Pairing the phone directly to the Bluetooth headset usually allows some or all of the voice activation on your phone, including Siri to work. It may require a new round of pairing making sure the voice activation settings are correct for the phone and headset but it appears several folks use Siri with the 20S when paired directly to the phone.

 

Keep trying. It sounds like you're almost right where you want to be.

Link to comment
...Pairing the phone directly to the Bluetooth headset usually allows some or all of the voice activation on your phone, including Siri to work. It may require a new round of pairing making sure the voice activation settings are correct for the phone and headset but it appears several folks use Siri with the 20S when paired directly to the phone...

 

I'd like to have Siri, at any rate, but then I'd lose weather and traffic on the Nav VI via Garmin SmartLink. Although so far, I'm not at all impressed with the weather info provided, and traffic seems to only be useful on a direct-to-destination route. I found on my recent Torrey trip that with traffic avoidance turned on, the Nav VI would go so far as to skip programmed waypoints on a route in order to avoid traffic!

Link to comment

I also had an issue on the Torrey trip where I did intercom pairing of my 20S to his SMH10, and the 20S lost the pairing to my SM10, so I had no bike audio or V1!

Link to comment
markgoodrich

I spent the afternoon trying to remember how I had it all neatly set up on my GT. And of course failed. I did manage to knock my pan full of bits and pieces over, and that helped me realize how dirty the garage floor is. I'm getting close to having it all work together, mainly posting right now to tell Bill that the SM10 can be powered by the USB connector in the right hand cubby. I actually split that USB port with a Y adapter, and charged the SM10 and my phone, snaked the wires here and there . I put my SM10 right on the right speaker grill using Velcro or something.

 

I'd never, ever put any electronic equipment in either of those cubbys.

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...